A picture is worth a thousand words . . . this explains a lot.
It's common for recumbent riders to run short crank arms, 150~155mm lengths even for tall riders.
There are a number of crank length discussion on the web.
Such as :
Crank length calculation is important to use the correct length of crank to ensure that your legs can work efficiently. Knee damage is a risk otherwise.
highpath.co.uk
If a used set of arms can't be found JB Importers has a nice line of BMX cranks in shorter lengths.
JB Importer parts can be ordered in most bike shops and often found on eBay and Amazon.
I ordered 1" threaded 26" forks. It appears that I will have to cut and rethread the fork steerer. I am considering installing the fork on Juanito first, then do the same with DookieCati.
I once tried to add threads to a 1" Capa RST suspension fork, but I used a low cost $29 pipe thread die. It wasn't hard enough. Instead, I converted it to a threadless fork as I had plenty of uncut steerer tube above the head tube. Much easier too.
Bicycle steer tubes are, as the name implies, "tubing". "Tubing" is dimensioned by OD. "Pipe" is dimensioned by ID. Therefore, the threading dies are completely different - in diameter, thread profile and TPI. Using one in place of the other will permanently damage the steer tube's existing threads, and likely render the fork unusable.
I swapped an old razor e300 scooter from threaded to threadless and went with a cartridge bearing rather than a open ball race but that was already 1-1/8 so i used an alloy stem clamp didnt have no issues with it coming lose on the threads but im sure they impinted the stem so i wouldn't use it on a threadless fork afterwards.
2Phast- I did the mod in question to my Mongoose Pug build in the ebike build section here. It's not easy and ideally requires a lathe, and accurate TIG work. It turned out well and I have a lot of miles on it. The description starts at post #20...
2Phast- I did the mod in question to my Mongoose Pug build in the ebike build section here. It's not easy and ideally requires a lathe, and accurate TIG work. It turned out well and I have a lot of miles on it. The description starts at post #20...