1000w BMC - More Problems

[neilr1967]

Hi,

I have the BMC 1000W kit with BMC 50Amp controller. I already have already had the controller modified to limit the amps so I thought I was finally ok. Now I can't get it to work. The cycle analyst shows everything is fine but when I use the throttle i get nothing. This started last night and I thought I fixed it by adjusting a pin the the hall sensor plug ( 5 pin) coming form the controller to the motor. But when riding today it just quit again. The cycle analyst still shows power but when i hit the throttle nothing. Im not technical....so i'm not sure what to do. I guess I'm asking what people think it most likely is....should i get a new controller and test that? I just want my electric bike to work.

Thanks for whatever advice you have.

 

[John in CR]

Was it working after the controller mod and just stopped working suddenly? Hopefully it's something like a loose connection or a bit of corrosion or carbon buildup from an arcing connection. Sometimes one of the little spade connectors for the hall can get pushed off to the side and miss the female side completely, which can be a frustrating bugger the first time you track it down.

If it was running and stopped while riding, what were the conditions? Was it going up a hill? If so, can you easily remove the back cover of the controller and give it a sniff for a burned smell inside?

No, don't buy a controller without first some simple diagnosis. If you don't have a multimeter, that's something you definitely need if you own an ebike. A lot of the stuff on ebikes is really simple, so some baby steps learning about electronics can still help you in big ways.

John

 

[kart_guy]

I have the same setup. It's been doing the same thing, running then quitting. It was acting like an intermittent in the throttle - run, run intermittently and then quit. I had another throttle, swapped out the original throttle and it worked. I checked the wiring on the old throttle connector and the green wire was broken at the connector pin. You might try wiggling the connector and operating the throttle, if it runs and quits while wiggling the connector then you have a broken connection. Hope this helps. kart_guy

 

[neilr1967]

Was it working after the controller mod and just stopped working suddenly? Hopefully it's something like a loose connection or a bit of corrosion or carbon buildup from an arcing connection. Sometimes one of the little spade connectors for the hall can get pushed off to the side and miss the female side completely, which can be a frustrating bugger the first time you track it down.

If it was running and stopped while riding, what were the conditions? Was it going up a hill? If so, can you easily remove the back cover of the controller and give it a sniff for a burned smell inside?

No, don't buy a controller without first some simple diagnosis. If you don't have a multimeter, that's something you definitely need if you own an ebike. A lot of the stuff on ebikes is really simple, so some baby steps learning about electronics can still help you in big ways.

John

Hi John,

Everything worked fine after the mod so I don't think that is the case. It just stopped working one day after I had disconnected it to put on a new crank. I thought I had figured it out as one of the spade connectors (didn't know that is what they were called) was pushed up and missing the female side. It worked after I did that. That was Thursday night. It worked yesterday for about 5 miles and then did the same thing. I give it throttle and I get nothing. I was on a flat paved bike trail so i wasn't straining the engine at all No funny noises. Or anything.

Also, I have tried a couple other throttles and that wasn't the problem.

So it seems like it is the 5 pin connection going from the controller to the motor. I think that is the hall sensor. How do i check that out or put in a new connection? I look into getting a multimeter.

Thanks for any other help.

-Neil

 

[dogman dan]

Very likely it's some kind of bad connection. Once I was having a fit trying to figure out why a motor quit on me, and kept looking at the connectors over and over and over.

Finally I noticed that the power wires to the motor had rubbed on the tire, and cut one completely. So look closely at everything on the bike. Sometimes a fine wire can cut itself while still leaving the insulation intact. Now that is really hard to find without some kind of test for continuity.

 

[GTR2EBIKE]

My guess is nothing is wrong with your set-up. The limiting feature is not instant by being to aggresive with throttle movement you can spike to 50amps for a split second. When you hit 50amps the controller will shut down, in order to reset it turn the on/off switch off for 5-10 seconds or until the cycle analyst goes dark. Turn it back on and your bike should be completely normal again. This has only happened to me twice but has happened to my bike everytime I let someone else ride it.