kZs0lt
100 W
Geoff, could you explain please what is the difference between mk1 and Puma that makes the mk1 incompatible with infineon while the puma is running fine with them?
12 FET controller board not working after installing FETs
- Thread starter kZs0lt
- Start date
Jeremy Harris
100 MW
My guess is there has to be a way to sort this. A three phase brushless motor is a really, really simple machine, just three coils and three sensors on the electrical side. We can rule out coils being incompatible, because a coil of wire is just that, a coil of wire. The BMC can't be any different from any other brushless motor in that regard, as witnessed by the fact that the motor turns OK when run on a sensorless controller.
So, we're left with a Hall sensor problem, as there can't be any other reason for the motor not working with this controller. From the voltage readings it looks very much as if the Hall sensors are switching OK, so that leaves just the issue of placement. The obvious thing to look at is whether the Mk1 BMC Hall sensors are in the same physical location as the Mk2. I know nothing of these motors, other than the fact that they are obviously generic three phase machines, so can't advise on this further. The thing to do is try and see where the Hall sensors are in relation to each phase. One way to do this is to run the motor on a sensorless controller and then look at the Hall output waveform. That might give some very useful clues as to where the problem is.
It has to be fixable, as the incompatibility can't be anything really physical, like the construction of the motor itself, it has to be something related to the way the motor and controller work together.
One thing might be to check the type of Hall sensor. It's a slim possibility, but if the BMC Mk1 is fitted with non-latching Hall sensors, then it might possibly be confusing the Infineon somehow. Latching sensors provide better immunity from false triggering and will also tend to even up the Hall output waveform, which might be a reason for the problem. I wouldn't assume this is the cause, I'm really just brainstorming ideas as to what might stop the motor running with this controller.
Jeremy
So, we're left with a Hall sensor problem, as there can't be any other reason for the motor not working with this controller. From the voltage readings it looks very much as if the Hall sensors are switching OK, so that leaves just the issue of placement. The obvious thing to look at is whether the Mk1 BMC Hall sensors are in the same physical location as the Mk2. I know nothing of these motors, other than the fact that they are obviously generic three phase machines, so can't advise on this further. The thing to do is try and see where the Hall sensors are in relation to each phase. One way to do this is to run the motor on a sensorless controller and then look at the Hall output waveform. That might give some very useful clues as to where the problem is.
It has to be fixable, as the incompatibility can't be anything really physical, like the construction of the motor itself, it has to be something related to the way the motor and controller work together.
One thing might be to check the type of Hall sensor. It's a slim possibility, but if the BMC Mk1 is fitted with non-latching Hall sensors, then it might possibly be confusing the Infineon somehow. Latching sensors provide better immunity from false triggering and will also tend to even up the Hall output waveform, which might be a reason for the problem. I wouldn't assume this is the cause, I'm really just brainstorming ideas as to what might stop the motor running with this controller.
Jeremy
dnmun
1 PW
is it possible to test another motor on the controller, to verify the controller works?
this could be a neat application of the sensorless board that keywin developed if the motor runs on the rc controller.
i still don't see what coulda burned, also what does it mean about the hall sensors being 120o apart? versus 60o? could the motor have 60o sensors and the controller wants to see 120o?
this could be a neat application of the sensorless board that keywin developed if the motor runs on the rc controller.
i still don't see what coulda burned, also what does it mean about the hall sensors being 120o apart? versus 60o? could the motor have 60o sensors and the controller wants to see 120o?
kZs0lt
100 W
For me it is weird that I have no response at all. Shouldn't I get at least some noise or shaking if the halls have problem? I remember someone said on the forum that it tries to run even with 2 hall sensors, but stops after 2-3 secs?
I have no other sensored motor to test with, only a little sensorless RC brushless motor.
I have no other sensored motor to test with, only a little sensorless RC brushless motor.
kZs0lt
100 W
Not knowing what else to do, I have taken out and resoldered every single FET much more careful. That was a real pain.
Given throttle, and guess what. It started to spin
Have no clue what was the problem. This was first time to get any movement.
I have pushed the throttle again more suddenly, and one of my tiny phase fuses was blown. After that gave just a little throttle, and trying to brake slightly to see if it is spinning continuously over every spot. And yes it was going round, but was not very smooth. After this I was trying to increase throttle slowly, to reach idle speed. After accelerating somewhere midway, I suppose it suddenly lost sync and was not spinning any more. Restarted controller, and now it won't spin any more. Sometimes it does give a 1-2 mm shake, depending on the spot. Or just a little sound (I can hear one of the coils being energized).
Being disappointed again. What could be the problem? I was using low rate fuses on battery and phases, so no chance for blowing anything. Didn't got any smoke either, nothing suspicious. I was testing no load.
Could this be the BMC Mk1 - Infineon incompatibility Geoff was speaking about? But why isn't it still spinning like first time?
I remember that using the sensorless RC controller, it was starting difficult, wobbling some revolutions and trying to get in sync. With only 3s (11.1v) it would never get start only wobbling, with no torque. With 4s(14.8v) it smoothed out after some revolutions and gained torque and was working as expected.
Geoff, could you elaborate on the incompatibility problem, have you found what are the causes and how can it be fixed?
I will try all phase and hall combinations and if nothing helps I think I will have to investigate the incompatibility issue, probably worth another thread.
Zsolt
Given throttle, and guess what. It started to spin
Have no clue what was the problem. This was first time to get any movement.I have pushed the throttle again more suddenly, and one of my tiny phase fuses was blown. After that gave just a little throttle, and trying to brake slightly to see if it is spinning continuously over every spot. And yes it was going round, but was not very smooth. After this I was trying to increase throttle slowly, to reach idle speed. After accelerating somewhere midway, I suppose it suddenly lost sync and was not spinning any more. Restarted controller, and now it won't spin any more. Sometimes it does give a 1-2 mm shake, depending on the spot. Or just a little sound (I can hear one of the coils being energized).
Being disappointed again. What could be the problem? I was using low rate fuses on battery and phases, so no chance for blowing anything. Didn't got any smoke either, nothing suspicious. I was testing no load.
Could this be the BMC Mk1 - Infineon incompatibility Geoff was speaking about? But why isn't it still spinning like first time?
I remember that using the sensorless RC controller, it was starting difficult, wobbling some revolutions and trying to get in sync. With only 3s (11.1v) it would never get start only wobbling, with no torque. With 4s(14.8v) it smoothed out after some revolutions and gained torque and was working as expected.
Geoff, could you elaborate on the incompatibility problem, have you found what are the causes and how can it be fixed?
I will try all phase and hall combinations and if nothing helps I think I will have to investigate the incompatibility issue, probably worth another thread.
Zsolt
dnmun
1 PW
how much voltage are you using? do you know what the LVC is for the controller?
kZs0lt
100 W
I am using 48v, the LVC is set to lowest 20.1v
Zsolt
Zsolt
Hi
the BMC Mk1 incompatability problems are to do do with the signals sent to the phase wires when in foward direction find a hall phase color combination that gives smooth motor responce but in reverse then connect DX3 to ground to reverse motor direction set converse speed to 70% I belive you said you had a programming connection to a PC and the program. This should work I have not tested so I don't know for sure, you will not get as high a speed and there will be only one speed range but with your battery, motor and 26" wheel or bigger you should get 15 mph out of it, it will probably give you extended range as your max speed will not be the fastest of that motor, battery wheel combination the controller will be slowing you down to 70% of max possable speed.
I am working on fixing the problem with the infineon controllers and BMC Mk1 motors but I am not that high in the chain of command and getting through to china is not easy I am doing my best though.
Geoff
the BMC Mk1 incompatability problems are to do do with the signals sent to the phase wires when in foward direction find a hall phase color combination that gives smooth motor responce but in reverse then connect DX3 to ground to reverse motor direction set converse speed to 70% I belive you said you had a programming connection to a PC and the program. This should work I have not tested so I don't know for sure, you will not get as high a speed and there will be only one speed range but with your battery, motor and 26" wheel or bigger you should get 15 mph out of it, it will probably give you extended range as your max speed will not be the fastest of that motor, battery wheel combination the controller will be slowing you down to 70% of max possable speed.
I am working on fixing the problem with the infineon controllers and BMC Mk1 motors but I am not that high in the chain of command and getting through to china is not easy I am doing my best though.
Geoff
kZs0lt
100 W
Today I hooked up the controller again to do more testing, try all hall combinations. But I wasn't able to move the motor. No sound, nothing at all, just as before. I am still wandering why won't it work at all now. What could have caused it to start yesterday? I am simply amazed. I don't think it was a bad soldering, because I saw no artifact, no shorts. If the FETs weren't from a reliable source (Bob) I would question them, but they must be good. Checked all my wires, they are all conducting. Hall and throttle signals OK. Bus voltages ok. I have programmed it to 20.1v LVC.
Yes, I have the programming tool for the Infineon, but unfortunately it won't start forward nor reverse at the moment. I would be happy to run it reverse @70%.
I don't care about fixing this in China, I just want to find a way to make them work together, if there really are incompatibility issues. At the moment I am thinking of getting another infineon controller, this is why I would like to clear this issue.
If this cannot work out, I may be forced to buy some other controller, but it would be nice to use an infineon, since I can program it and they are cheap.
Zsolt
geoff57 said:
Yes, I have the programming tool for the Infineon, but unfortunately it won't start forward nor reverse at the moment. I would be happy to run it reverse @70%.
I don't care about fixing this in China, I just want to find a way to make them work together, if there really are incompatibility issues. At the moment I am thinking of getting another infineon controller, this is why I would like to clear this issue.
If this cannot work out, I may be forced to buy some other controller, but it would be nice to use an infineon, since I can program it and they are cheap.
Zsolt
dnmun
1 PW
i was thinking LVC because that's how i can tell when i find the LVC as i drop the voltage.
as the voltage drops, it almost runs, cutting in and out, then finally no response at all.
if the resistor bridge is fixed physically, how can they change the LVC setpoint in the processor? does it just have a different reference voltage to compare the voltage from the the bridge to?
as the voltage drops, it almost runs, cutting in and out, then finally no response at all.
if the resistor bridge is fixed physically, how can they change the LVC setpoint in the processor? does it just have a different reference voltage to compare the voltage from the the bridge to?
methods
1 GW
Build one of these circuits and tell us what you see when you roll the motor.
Turn it very slowly to catch every transition
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10362
-methods
Turn it very slowly to catch every transition
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10362
-methods
kZs0lt
100 W
I have attached a led to every hall signal with a resistor, one leg of the led to the black wire, the other to the signal blue, green and yellow respectively. I got the following sequence with the controller attachednot sure about which color assumed to be A, B or C)
A--
AB-
-B-
-BC
--C
A-C
Without controller(leds attached to motor only and supplying 5v to motor red with black):
---(off)
Leds attached to controller only:
ABC(every led on)
If I detach a motor hall signal, the Led is still on controller hall signal, the led is on (5.0v to black). If I detach a controller hall phase signal (Led is attached to motor hall phase signal only) the led is off. Like the hall is pushing the 5.0 controller signal down to 0.0v.
The controller is sometimes working properly, and turns relatively smooth the wheel in the good direction from a dead stop(The combination I use is I swapped yellow with green on phase and on hall in the controller). Sometimes it would just kick in at some positions and let it off. And very often it would make no movement at all.
Today I finally got a short working moment. I was able to test it on the road first time. It was running for about 200-300m with stops and accelerations to more then 20km/h. Then it suddenly cut out. No movement. Reconnected few times the battery and given throttle for a dozen times. It begin to work smooth for 200m again with stops and accelerations from dead stop, eventually cutting out again. After this I could not make it work again. The throttle cuts out every time at somewhere above 90% full. But sometimes the controller just wouldn't work whatever I do.
I am very confident that it is not a bad connection (I use screw connections with heavy wire for phase and batts, checked the phase wires, and once I replaced all of them) Not sure about the motor hall wires, but I get consistent reading on them every time I measure them(even when controller is not working). The throttle signal is also good every time I measure it.
Sometimes it won't work whatever I do. I leave it rest and 2nd or third day I attach battery and motor it would work once again for short periods.
What could cause this inconsistent working? Arrgh, I am loosing my temper :x
Zsolt
not sure about which color assumed to be A, B or C)A--
AB-
-B-
-BC
--C
A-C
Without controller(leds attached to motor only and supplying 5v to motor red with black):
---(off)
Leds attached to controller only:
ABC(every led on)
If I detach a motor hall signal, the Led is still on controller hall signal, the led is on (5.0v to black). If I detach a controller hall phase signal (Led is attached to motor hall phase signal only) the led is off. Like the hall is pushing the 5.0 controller signal down to 0.0v.
The controller is sometimes working properly, and turns relatively smooth the wheel in the good direction from a dead stop(The combination I use is I swapped yellow with green on phase and on hall in the controller). Sometimes it would just kick in at some positions and let it off. And very often it would make no movement at all.
Today I finally got a short working moment. I was able to test it on the road first time. It was running for about 200-300m with stops and accelerations to more then 20km/h. Then it suddenly cut out. No movement. Reconnected few times the battery and given throttle for a dozen times. It begin to work smooth for 200m again with stops and accelerations from dead stop, eventually cutting out again. After this I could not make it work again. The throttle cuts out every time at somewhere above 90% full. But sometimes the controller just wouldn't work whatever I do.
I am very confident that it is not a bad connection (I use screw connections with heavy wire for phase and batts, checked the phase wires, and once I replaced all of them) Not sure about the motor hall wires, but I get consistent reading on them every time I measure them(even when controller is not working). The throttle signal is also good every time I measure it.
Sometimes it won't work whatever I do. I leave it rest and 2nd or third day I attach battery and motor it would work once again for short periods.
What could cause this inconsistent working? Arrgh, I am loosing my temper :x
Zsolt
I think it should be possible to make it work with the right hall / phase combination.
Does the controller board have a status LED? If you can open the case to see the LED, it may be blinking an error code that would help you identify the problem.
If the board detects any number of faults, it will prevent it from sending power to the motor. Faults include throttle high on startup, invalid hall signal, under voltage, over voltage, and over current.
Does the controller board have a status LED? If you can open the case to see the LED, it may be blinking an error code that would help you identify the problem.
If the board detects any number of faults, it will prevent it from sending power to the motor. Faults include throttle high on startup, invalid hall signal, under voltage, over voltage, and over current.
kZs0lt
100 W
I have tried a dozen of combinations, and this one is working fairly good. But only rarely and for short periods. There is no status led, it is fairly new Infineon board, I bought only the board and box, and assembled it myself, fitting 4110 FETs.
I managed to program it for lowest 20.1v LVC. Today I used it on 9s LiPo (33v) with R01(A,B) shorted(0 Ohm), this is the recommended value for 24v, good up to 50 according to the post in the Technical reference area. But tried it with 48v original power resistors, and multiple configs.
Throttle sign is good (0.5-4.3v), hall signal seems also, under voltage is set to lowest, I don't know about over voltage, over current is almost impossible with my weak batteries that aren't capable to provide more than 15-20Amp.(current set to 30A by programming). And I haven't abused it with high currents.
And when it doesn't want to work, it won't work even if I disconnect and reconnect battery, throttle, anything. I am using a thumb throttle which excludes throttle high on startup.
P.S.
Edit: Is there a way to connect somewhere a status led?
I managed to program it for lowest 20.1v LVC. Today I used it on 9s LiPo (33v) with R01(A,B) shorted(0 Ohm), this is the recommended value for 24v, good up to 50 according to the post in the Technical reference area. But tried it with 48v original power resistors, and multiple configs.
Throttle sign is good (0.5-4.3v), hall signal seems also, under voltage is set to lowest, I don't know about over voltage, over current is almost impossible with my weak batteries that aren't capable to provide more than 15-20Amp.(current set to 30A by programming). And I haven't abused it with high currents.
And when it doesn't want to work, it won't work even if I disconnect and reconnect battery, throttle, anything. I am using a thumb throttle which excludes throttle high on startup.
P.S.
Edit: Is there a way to connect somewhere a status led?
dnmun
1 PW
i am under the impression that the infineon is hardwired for a 30.5 or 31.5V LVC. you may need more batteries, why not run it at 36-48V?
can you measure the voltage input to the 12V regulator, is it the LM317T? you should have about 14V minimum.
can you measure the voltage input to the 12V regulator, is it the LM317T? you should have about 14V minimum.
Jeremy Harris
100 MW
The Infineon does have a programmable LVC in software, down to 20.1V as a minimum, 64V as a maximum.
The hardware bodge way to adjust it is for those who don't have the programming interface and is probably not the best way to do it.
Jeremy
The hardware bodge way to adjust it is for those who don't have the programming interface and is probably not the best way to do it.
Jeremy
methods
1 GW
Sounds just like what happened to me with one of the controllers i built up a month ago.
The reason i wanted you to build the LED box was so you could test for this same thing.
I too read the hall sensors on the motor to be fine.
What I missed was a tiny hair of copper wire that shorted out the A hall signal to the B hall signal. (in the controller)
When I plugged in the motor the controller would sense a bad hall sequence and shut off.
I suggest doing one more test where you connect the motor to the controller, then watch the LED pattern.
For me, the pattern immediately changed and I found the problem.
I guess you could eliminate my problem by just measuring the resistance between all 3 hall signals on the controller to make sure they are not shorted.
While you are at it, make sure that the ebrake is not being intermittently shorted.
Is it possible you programmed it with the wrong software settings? Did you choose the correct model number?
-methods
The reason i wanted you to build the LED box was so you could test for this same thing.
I too read the hall sensors on the motor to be fine.
What I missed was a tiny hair of copper wire that shorted out the A hall signal to the B hall signal. (in the controller)
When I plugged in the motor the controller would sense a bad hall sequence and shut off.
I suggest doing one more test where you connect the motor to the controller, then watch the LED pattern.
For me, the pattern immediately changed and I found the problem.
I guess you could eliminate my problem by just measuring the resistance between all 3 hall signals on the controller to make sure they are not shorted.
While you are at it, make sure that the ebrake is not being intermittently shorted.
Is it possible you programmed it with the wrong software settings? Did you choose the correct model number?
-methods
kZs0lt
100 W
The problem is that sometimes is going well(ok, but it's slightly shaky at startup), but other times not at all. And I checked the halls when it wasn't working at all, and the hall signals were ok, according to DM measurement and led sequence too. Today I checked again and connected the leds permanently. This time I made only a short ride and it was working, I didn't had time to test it still it would die again. But I observed, that twice one of the halls stopped responding and the motor begun to run less smooth, but run. It was for very short moments(2-3 sec). So I suspect it could be a hall problem after all. But I find it wired that every time I have checked it, the signal was good(It wasn't attached permanently) even when it wasn't working.
Today I was running on 6s lipo (22v), and I could feel LVC cutting around 20.5v. I suppose the programming went fine.
I could test halls only if motor is connected to controller. I found that the controller hall line is at 5v when the motor hall is not connected, and the motor hall is always 0 (to ground[black]) when is not connected to the controller. So I think the motor hall sensor works by pushing the 5v signal of the controller down to 0v. Is this the way it meant to work? Or this sounds abnormal? Or some work by supplying a varying voltage, others by pushing it down?
I definitely need to do more testing as my time will permit. I may get a camera this weekend and I'll try to make some vids.
Zsolt
Today I was running on 6s lipo (22v), and I could feel LVC cutting around 20.5v. I suppose the programming went fine.
I could test halls only if motor is connected to controller. I found that the controller hall line is at 5v when the motor hall is not connected, and the motor hall is always 0 (to ground[black]) when is not connected to the controller. So I think the motor hall sensor works by pushing the 5v signal of the controller down to 0v. Is this the way it meant to work? Or this sounds abnormal? Or some work by supplying a varying voltage, others by pushing it down?
I definitely need to do more testing as my time will permit. I may get a camera this weekend and I'll try to make some vids.
Zsolt
The controller supplies 5v steady to power the hall sensors (red wire) and each hall signal line is 'pulled up' to 5v by a resistor inside the controller. Most motor hall sensors can only pull down the signal, not up, so pull up resistors are needed. When the hall switches, it pulls the signal line down. If the halls are disconnected, the signal lines from the controller will read 5v. This is normal. The output of the hall sensor is either high or low, there is no in-between state.
kZs0lt
100 W
Fechter, does this mean that I cannot see the signal if I only supply the 5v to red and black to the hall sensor if the signal(blue, yellow or green) is not connected to the controller(to 5v by a resistor in the controller)? [it would always be zero].
Yes. Depending on the sensors used, the output will just look like zero all the time unless you have pull-up resistors.
kZs0lt
100 W
Finally somehow I got this controller working . I still don't know what was the problem, it must have been some failed connection after all, though I checked everything a couple of times.
But now it works consistently, and I've already ridden it for about 15kms.
I've made a quick test video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3ZHp-1L47A
It is a little shaky and noisy at start, the rack is also resonating, but it smoothes out at around 7-10km/h.
I was using 11cell 4Ah lipo, and I got around 35-37km/h max. speed on flat, at around 38-39 volts. So I think I haven't encountered the BMC Mk1 - Infineon incompatibility problem reported by Geoff. I still have to measure no load current though.
Do you find the starting noise normal (I made another slow start vid where I was braking a little for loading the motor(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQSzK5eyhvc))?
Zsolt
. I still don't know what was the problem, it must have been some failed connection after all, though I checked everything a couple of times.But now it works consistently, and I've already ridden it for about 15kms.
I've made a quick test video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3ZHp-1L47A
It is a little shaky and noisy at start, the rack is also resonating, but it smoothes out at around 7-10km/h.
I was using 11cell 4Ah lipo, and I got around 35-37km/h max. speed on flat, at around 38-39 volts. So I think I haven't encountered the BMC Mk1 - Infineon incompatibility problem reported by Geoff. I still have to measure no load current though.
Do you find the starting noise normal (I made another slow start vid where I was braking a little for loading the motor(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQSzK5eyhvc))?
Zsolt
methods
1 GW
First, congratulations for sticking with it and solving the problem.
Your noise does seem a little excessive, but I can verify that the Infineon controller does make a racket near stall on my motors. Usually if there is no load there should be no noise though.... but I am referring to a 9C motor. You have a very different motor that I have no experience with.
On my 9C if I start out very slow up a hill I hear similar sounds but maybe 1/4 as loud and at a lower frequency.
Yours sounds a little like popcorn
Please check your no load current.
-methods
Your noise does seem a little excessive, but I can verify that the Infineon controller does make a racket near stall on my motors. Usually if there is no load there should be no noise though.... but I am referring to a 9C motor. You have a very different motor that I have no experience with.
On my 9C if I start out very slow up a hill I hear similar sounds but maybe 1/4 as loud and at a lower frequency.
Yours sounds a little like popcorn
Please check your no load current.
-methods
kZs0lt
100 W
A lot of the starting noise is due to the iron rack getting the vibrations and resonating, it's not quite as bad as it seems on the video. The cameras mic was sensitive too, after smoothing out, the freewheel noise is much louder.
I was measuring no load current across an 1ohm resistor, and the measured voltage drop was around 2.5v. My meter is not very precise as the full charged LiPo cell showed 4.34!(instead of 4.20) Maybe time to change the DM battery. So I assume no load is between 2 and 2.5 amps @ ~43v. Pretty high, but compatible
Note on BMC Mk1 - Infineon incompatibility(as explained by Jozzer) for those who don't know what is this all about:
"The symptoms are that as the throttle is turned, the motor picks up speed as usual until about 50%. After this, the motor actually slows down a little and much more current is drawn. At full throttle the motor is running at less than 1/2 speed and the controller is getting very warm.
It seems to me that the problem is that the digital controllers cant actually run the BMC's/Puma's in both directions properly, the problem being that the direction it cant run properly in is the direction needed for forward motion.
I cant explain why it is not possible to reconfigure the halls/phase in the right order to make it run the same backwards as forwards, with any of the analogue controllers it is absolutely possible to recreate any working state with several different combinations both forwards and backwards."
My controller is accelerating continuously the motor (not quite linearly, but...), and achieve 37-38km/h on flat with 11 lipo cell, so clearly I didn't encounter this issue
The controller cuts out at about 90-95 percent throttle, I may need to fit a resistor somewhere in the hall line. (last time I think I measured 4.3v max. throttle signal, is this little high?) I think the solution for this was discussed on the forum, I will check this out.
zsolt
I was measuring no load current across an 1ohm resistor, and the measured voltage drop was around 2.5v. My meter is not very precise as the full charged LiPo cell showed 4.34!(instead of 4.20) Maybe time to change the DM battery. So I assume no load is between 2 and 2.5 amps @ ~43v. Pretty high, but compatible
Note on BMC Mk1 - Infineon incompatibility(as explained by Jozzer) for those who don't know what is this all about:
"The symptoms are that as the throttle is turned, the motor picks up speed as usual until about 50%. After this, the motor actually slows down a little and much more current is drawn. At full throttle the motor is running at less than 1/2 speed and the controller is getting very warm.
It seems to me that the problem is that the digital controllers cant actually run the BMC's/Puma's in both directions properly, the problem being that the direction it cant run properly in is the direction needed for forward motion.
I cant explain why it is not possible to reconfigure the halls/phase in the right order to make it run the same backwards as forwards, with any of the analogue controllers it is absolutely possible to recreate any working state with several different combinations both forwards and backwards."
My controller is accelerating continuously the motor (not quite linearly, but...), and achieve 37-38km/h on flat with 11 lipo cell, so clearly I didn't encounter this issue
The controller cuts out at about 90-95 percent throttle, I may need to fit a resistor somewhere in the hall line. (last time I think I measured 4.3v max. throttle signal, is this little high?) I think the solution for this was discussed on the forum, I will check this out.
zsolt
dnmun
1 PW
something is wrong. idle current should only be about 50mA with the hall sensors and throttle connected. how hot is the voltage regulator and the power input resistors? is the microprocessor hot also?
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