Rix
100 TW
100volts+ said:
And to help keep your front wheel down under hard accel.
Ch00paKabra, very nice wheel set there, really like the anno blue rim color. Let us know how you like the setup with the MAC.
19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
And to help keep your front wheel down under hard accel.
Ch00paKabra, very nice wheel set there, really like the anno blue rim color. Let us know how you like the setup with the MAC.
Ch00paKabrA
10 kW
madin88 said:Ch00paKabrA
imho a bit overkill the moto rim on the MAC, but it looks nice
Yeah, your probably right but it is mainly to reduce/eliminate the possibility of flats. To keep the weight down, I went withthe IRC GP1 tires so we'll see how it works out. I just decided to go 2wd so the front rim will be getting a MAC as well. I got a lot help from some members here on the forum to make that decision and it came in the nick of time. My initial setup would have fried the MAC in a heart beat.
For those using the Shinko 20" street-type tires (not knobbies), how is their grip in turns, especially in wet conditions? And how long have they lasted for you under various conditions? (and how do they compare to the Pirelli, if you have used it, too?)
I've been looking at both the Pirelli ML-75 and since seeing some posts about them, the Shinko as well, and given that the Shinko tends to be about half the price of the Pirelli, well, that's a motivator for me, if the Shinko might last as long as the Pirelli. If it doesn't last nearly as long I'd be better off paying more to get the Pirelli, though.
(I'm wanting something that grips really well in normal dry conditions, and so I know it will wear faster than a harder less grippy tire, and that's ok. I'd rather be more sure-footed while it lasts.)
I've been looking at both the Pirelli ML-75 and since seeing some posts about them, the Shinko as well, and given that the Shinko tends to be about half the price of the Pirelli, well, that's a motivator for me, if the Shinko might last as long as the Pirelli. If it doesn't last nearly as long I'd be better off paying more to get the Pirelli, though.
(I'm wanting something that grips really well in normal dry conditions, and so I know it will wear faster than a harder less grippy tire, and that's ok. I'd rather be more sure-footed while it lasts.
)
I'm new to the area of mc tires on a bicycle AF All i can do is tell you what my experience is. I have a 19" motocross rim and a shinko 19'x2.75 sr241 tire,it's probably more knobbie than you want. It is at 35 psi. The ride is much better and the grip around corners is also much much better, wet or dry. I have a heavy bike and the shinko will probably last 4 times as long as a bicycle tire. Previously I used 26 inch Maxxis Hookworms. Maxxis wears out too fast on the rear. Going to try 17" next.
Rix
100 TW
amberwolf said:For those using the Shinko 20" street-type tires (not knobbies), how is their grip in turns, especially in wet conditions? And how long have they lasted for you under various conditions? (and how do they compare to the Pirelli, if you have used it, too?)
I've been looking at both the Pirelli ML-75 and since seeing some posts about them, the Shinko as well, and given that the Shinko tends to be about half the price of the Pirelli, well, that's a motivator for me, if the Shinko might last as long as the Pirelli. If it doesn't last nearly as long I'd be better off paying more to get the Pirelli, though.
(I'm wanting something that grips really well in normal dry conditions, and so I know it will wear faster than a harder less grippy tire, and that's ok. I'd rather be more sure-footed while it lasts.
Amberwolf, can you tell me which shinko model you are referring too? I tried their moped 2.25x17 tire, very briefly. I didn't work at all for what I needed.
I'm not sure what the model number is ATM, but it is their "20"" moped tire, equivalent to the Pirelli ML-75. I can probably use up to a 3" in back, but I'd have to build my own forks for that width in front (for bicycle wheel), so I'd say 2.5" max possible width. I'd prefer to get the smae size front and rear just so keeping a single spare tire around would be possible for whichever wears out first, but I suspect getting the fattest one I can for the rear would be more practical given the extra weight it has to support, with no suspension yet on CB2.
Rix
100 TW
amberwolf said:
Amberwolf, a 20" tire must be for a 16" rim? The one I tried is the only moped tire on their thread. Its a 2.25x17 and about 21.5 inches OD on a 17.4 wide rim. You may like it for road only riding, but its slick on everything that isn't ashfalt or concrete.
Sorry, I meant to say it's what in bicycle terms would be rim for a 20" wheel (the Zero rims Ypedal has). So probably its the size you've tried.
I ride almost always on asphalt (city streets), with maybe a handful of miles in a year haivng to be on any kind of dirt or gravel, usually very short stretches on very rare occasions. Sometimes there are concrete paths, but almost always it's asphalt. Even the sections of canal path I have to take occasionally are asphalt, for the most part.
I do zero "offroad" stuff, at least intentionally :lol: so I'm fine with it not working in those situations...as long as it sticks well in wet or dry weather to asphalt/concrete it's all good.
I ride almost always on asphalt (city streets), with maybe a handful of miles in a year haivng to be on any kind of dirt or gravel, usually very short stretches on very rare occasions. Sometimes there are concrete paths, but almost always it's asphalt. Even the sections of canal path I have to take occasionally are asphalt, for the most part.
I do zero "offroad" stuff, at least intentionally :lol: so I'm fine with it not working in those situations...as long as it sticks well in wet or dry weather to asphalt/concrete it's all good.
Rix
100 TW
amberwolf said:Sorry, I meant to say it's what in bicycle terms would be rim for a 20" wheel (the Zero rims Ypedal has). So probably its the size you've tried.
I ride almost always on asphalt (city streets), with maybe a handful of miles in a year haivng to be on any kind of dirt or gravel, usually very short stretches on very rare occasions. Sometimes there are concrete paths, but almost always it's asphalt. Even the sections of canal path I have to take occasionally are asphalt, for the most part.
I do zero "offroad" stuff, at least intentionally :lol: so I'm fine with it not working in those situations...as long as it sticks well in wet or dry weather to asphalt/concrete it's all good.
Well if you plan on keeping it on the pavement/ashphalt, the 2.25-17 shinko moped tires could be for you. Please keep in mind that even though I tried, it, it was only about 12 miles, and came off the same day I put it on. I can't offer any advise about how long it will last. I remember it was great on the street, and when I ventured off road, the rear end was trying to pass my front when ever I got on the throttle in the turns. Seems like it had a load rating for 290# pounds, but I can't be sure as I got rid of it well over a year ago.
Allex
100 MW
Michelin Gazelle is also very popular as on road tyre.
Rix
100 TW
Allex said:
Yah, I tried the M62 Gazelle about 2 years ago. This is the tire I would most recommend for anyone that rides like 80% road and 20% dirt roads. It actually worked better offroad than one would think by looking at it. But its no SR241. I ran both the 2.75-17 and 3.00-17 M62. Hey Amberwolf, have you thought about the M62 Michelin Gazelle?
Rick
Attachments
When I'd previously seen pics of it, it seemed "knobby". Now that I look over at Alan B's thread, where it shows the tread wear after 2800-ish miles vs a new one, I can see it isn't really. But the more rubber I can get in contact with the road, the better, and I don't really normally need much in the way of grooves for water or dirt or whatever to be pushed off the contact patch into. I guess it would probably work better in really wet conditions that way; I don't know.
I do know that the 26" tire I liked best had a vaguely similar tread pattern, it was by CST but I have never found them for sale anywhere, only got the pair I had and wore out off a used Kensington bike from a thrift store years ago.
I would guess that from the low-seeming mileage on it by Alan that it is a soft sticky compound, and that's what I need. It's in the same price range as the Shinko tires I found "recommended" by places I was looking at the Pirelli's at, so it's on the table.
I do know that the 26" tire I liked best had a vaguely similar tread pattern, it was by CST but I have never found them for sale anywhere, only got the pair I had and wore out off a used Kensington bike from a thrift store years ago.
I would guess that from the low-seeming mileage on it by Alan that it is a soft sticky compound, and that's what I need. It's in the same price range as the Shinko tires I found "recommended" by places I was looking at the Pirelli's at, so it's on the table.
Rix
100 TW
Yes it does. Your running the footpeg set up instead of cranks and pedals?
Rix said:
haha yeah I decided to stop pretending I was building something i would pedal. I bought a second bottom bracket so I can go back to pedals if I need to make it legal, but decided to treat it more like a stealth hurricane
wingsuit said:
That's how I kind of look at it. There is really no reason to kid anyone with these bikes that we are actually going to pedal. I am exhausted enough off-roading the bike to where I have no desire to fake pedal a 100+ LBS bike. Plus our bikes hold so many batteries that pedaling is pointless for range.
Do the foot pegs work better than pedals? I want to get the raptor 140 as that has a footpeg option and intend to use the footpegs. I think it would help my off-roading ability a lot as the pedals get in the way.
I think you should have considered a 17" on that rear of the phasor. It is so much better than the 19". I still drive on things that I haven't driven since my 19" and the 17" has so much more torque that I worry the bike is going to flip backwards. I'm not sure your adjustability and bottom bracket height which on the razor is adjusted easily.
I would have used the 18" prowheel with 18x3.00 241 tire instead of the 19" if you really wanted to keep tire size the same. Simply put the 19x2.75" tires plain suck compared to the 3.00" tires.
Kent
1 kW
This site has a nice overview of moped wheels and tires including some history and photos of historic mopeds.
http://www.myronsmopeds.com/category/wheel/tires/
http://www.myronsmopeds.com/category/wheel/tires/
Kent
1 kW
This site has a nice overview of moped wheels and tires including some history and photos of historic mopeds.
http://www.myronsmopeds.com/category/wheel/tires/
http://www.myronsmopeds.com/category/wheel/tires/
Rix
100 TW
arcticfly said:
Yah, it will swap out directly. On another note, does anyone have a line on someone lacing MC rims to front MTB hubs? Since Volt Riders closed up, JRH is still getting the spokes in and selling them, but isn't building wheels. I have had some PMs on this and can't refer because I don't know. I have been telling folks to order the spokes from JRH and take the rim and MTB hub to a local bicycle wheel smith.
Funny you should mention that. I would like to lace up a 19 x1.4 yamaha playbike rim to a 20mm axle with dual disc capability. It would match my rear tire. I hope I don't have to dish too much because I suck at lacing. However that is the point. I'm trying to learn.
Rix
100 TW
100volts+ said:
I found that 1X such as on rear hub motors laced to rims is easy, but I flat suck at 3X. Of course I have never been instructed on this, and the time I tried it, I had no references. So for this reason, I wont mess with the front.
For your interest.
I ran 765 miles on both a 19x.2.75" shinko and a 17x3.00" shinko tire.
I took pictures to show the how much tread is left on the tires. I also measured the center tread depth.
The 17x3.00" tire looks to have a substantial amount of tread left after 765 miles. Although this isn't any kind of valid test because the 17x3.00" shinko tire started with a lot more tread.
The 17x3.00" is a clear winner however you put it, after 765 miles the 19x2.75 looks very worn out already while the 17x3.00" still has a lot more tread and life left in the tire.
I am not sure the tire compound, but the 17x3.00" feels a lot softer. The 17x3.00" was run on a 1.6" rim while the 19x2.75" was run on a 1.4" rim. The 17x3.00" tire was run with a lot lower PSI. I wonder if this lower PSI makes it wear less in the middle as it may spread out more over the knobbies.
Remember, if you're looking to go to a moto rim and plan to off-road, forget the 19x2.75 and get a 18x3.00", very similar in size but you get a much better tire with the 3.00" and it will probably last a lot longer also, plus its a lot more stable under any off-road conditions.
Here is the 19x2.75" shinko with about 4.75mm of center tread left.
Here is the 17x3.00" shinko tire with about 8mm of center tread left. You can clearly see how meaty the tire is after 765 miles.
Just some side by side comparisons.
I ran 765 miles on both a 19x.2.75" shinko and a 17x3.00" shinko tire.
I took pictures to show the how much tread is left on the tires. I also measured the center tread depth.
The 17x3.00" tire looks to have a substantial amount of tread left after 765 miles. Although this isn't any kind of valid test because the 17x3.00" shinko tire started with a lot more tread.
The 17x3.00" is a clear winner however you put it, after 765 miles the 19x2.75 looks very worn out already while the 17x3.00" still has a lot more tread and life left in the tire.
I am not sure the tire compound, but the 17x3.00" feels a lot softer. The 17x3.00" was run on a 1.6" rim while the 19x2.75" was run on a 1.4" rim. The 17x3.00" tire was run with a lot lower PSI. I wonder if this lower PSI makes it wear less in the middle as it may spread out more over the knobbies.
Remember, if you're looking to go to a moto rim and plan to off-road, forget the 19x2.75 and get a 18x3.00", very similar in size but you get a much better tire with the 3.00" and it will probably last a lot longer also, plus its a lot more stable under any off-road conditions.
Here is the 19x2.75" shinko with about 4.75mm of center tread left.
Here is the 17x3.00" shinko tire with about 8mm of center tread left. You can clearly see how meaty the tire is after 765 miles.
Just some side by side comparisons.
Rix
100 TW
Definately got at least another 1k on the 3.00-17 and probably about 300-350 on the 2.75-19. Glad you are liking the moto tires as much as you are. I wouldn't ride anything else on the rear of any ebike, ever again. And you will see why when I get dont editing my next video which has a good dose of lava rock.
