19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)

[Rix]

I actually have a 17x1.6 Holmes rim (3rd 17x1.6 rim) that is slightly warped and junk now, bent in and can't be trued, after breaking like 11 or 13 12 gauge spokes in a nice hit.
Maybe I'll drill that out as a test to see how much weight I can reduce on that to see if it is worth it to drill out my good rims.

Rix: you shaved 7 oz on a 1.4 rim, but a 1.6 rim is much heavier and should be easier to shave away the weight.

Does anyone know if I can get away with drilling some holes in the sides of the rim also?

It would seem that the sides would be important for both bead and strength.

In theory, I think you could, unlike the slighty narrower 1.4 wide rim, a guy could ovalize the drill hole and go wider, I am guessing you can't go bigger than 7/8 as you need to place those holes between the spoke holes, but ovalizing those holes the width of the rim could take out more material.

 

[madin88]

I actually have a 17x1.6 Holmes rim (3rd 17x1.6 rim) that is slightly warped and junk now, bent in and can't be trued, after breaking like 11 or 13 12 gauge spokes in a nice hit.
Maybe I'll drill that out as a test to see how much weight I can reduce on that to see if it is worth it to drill out my good rims.

now, what was the size of the spokes and how many broke?
instead of removing material from the rim i would mill turn off some material from the motor^^

 

[macribs]

I actually have a 17x1.6 Holmes rim (3rd 17x1.6 rim) that is slightly warped and junk now, bent in and can't be trued, after breaking like 11 or 13 12 gauge spokes in a nice hit.
Maybe I'll drill that out as a test to see how much weight I can reduce on that to see if it is worth it to drill out my good rims.

now, what was the size of the spokes and how many broke?
instead of removing material from the rim i would mill turn off some material from the motor^^

Or put the hub in the frame and use it as mid drive? No more heavy load on rear wheel :wink:

 

[jmz]

I now have my 19x1.6" wheel with a QS motor in it, a 19" Kenda tube, and a 19" SR244.

I will have a go at mounting it soon, any tools required besides levels/baby powder?

The Kenda tube comes with two seemingly identical nuts on the valve stem. Is one of them meant to go on the inside? It looks like it would make the tube stick out a bit from the rim.

 

[Mammalian04]

I now have my 19x1.6" wheel with a QS motor in it, a 19" Kenda tube, and a 19" SR244.

I will have a go at mounting it soon, any tools required besides levels/baby powder?

The Kenda tube comes with two seemingly identical nuts on the valve stem. Is one of them meant to go on the inside? It looks like it would make the tube stick out a bit from the rim.

I had the same question when installing the tube for the first time. I put them both on the outside as a jam nut.

Don't forget to use a rim strip if you have one. Helps protect the tube from the rim.

 

[jmz]

I now have my 19x1.6" wheel with a QS motor in it, a 19" Kenda tube, and a 19" SR244.

I will have a go at mounting it soon, any tools required besides levels/baby powder?

The Kenda tube comes with two seemingly identical nuts on the valve stem. Is one of them meant to go on the inside? It looks like it would make the tube stick out a bit from the rim.

I had the same question when installing the tube for the first time. I put them both on the outside as a jam nut.

Don't forget to use a rim strip if you have one. Helps protect the tube from the rim.

And that has been working out for you?

I have a nice fabric rim strip.

 

[bigbore]

I now have my 19x1.6" wheel with a QS motor in it, a 19" Kenda tube, and a 19" SR244.

I will have a go at mounting it soon, any tools required besides levels/baby powder?

The Kenda tube comes with two seemingly identical nuts on the valve stem. Is one of them meant to go on the inside? It looks like it would make the tube stick out a bit from the rim.

I got from the mail today a MMP 19X1.6 to mount on a QS 205 30*4T 11.5kv that is on the way right now.
Instead of the rim strip I've been using on my Bomber rear wheel (same MMP 19X1.6 rim) two turns of athletic tape found at Decathlon. Is like this one:
http://www.drugstore.com/mueller-sport-care-sport-care-athletic-tape/qxp412765

And so far so good

What QS motor kv do you have? And what voltage and amps are you going to feed it?

 

[Mammalian04]

I now have my 19x1.6" wheel with a QS motor in it, a 19" Kenda tube, and a 19" SR244.

I will have a go at mounting it soon, any tools required besides levels/baby powder?

The Kenda tube comes with two seemingly identical nuts on the valve stem. Is one of them meant to go on the inside? It looks like it would make the tube stick out a bit from the rim.

I had the same question when installing the tube for the first time. I put them both on the outside as a jam nut.

Don't forget to use a rim strip if you have one. Helps protect the tube from the rim.

And that has been working out for you?

I have a nice fabric rim strip.

Yes, I am just using cheap Bikemaster rim strips and I haven't had any trouble yet (only a couple hundred miles though).

 

[Rix]

Yes, I am just using cheap Bikemaster rim strips and I haven't had any trouble yet (only a couple hundred miles though).

Got you beat on the cheap, I use duct tape torn in half, and run 4 laps around the rim. :lol:

 

[jmz]

I now have my 19x1.6" wheel with a QS motor in it, a 19" Kenda tube, and a 19" SR244.

I will have a go at mounting it soon, any tools required besides levels/baby powder?

The Kenda tube comes with two seemingly identical nuts on the valve stem. Is one of them meant to go on the inside? It looks like it would make the tube stick out a bit from the rim.

I got from the mail today a MMP 19X1.6 to mount on a QS 205 30*4T 11.5kv that is on the way right now.
Instead of the rim strip I've been using on my Bomber rear wheel (same MMP 19X1.6 rim) two turns of athletic tape found at Decathlon. Is like this one:
http://www.drugstore.com/mueller-sport-care-sport-care-athletic-tape/qxp412765

And so far so good

What QS motor kv do you have? And what voltage and amps are you going to feed it?

It's the 5.5T, running from 20S10P LG HG2 (70-80V), 5 kW or whatever the mini-E can chuck at it. Should hopefully make for quite an efficient cruise.

 

[Rix]

I now have my 19x1.6" wheel with a QS motor in it, a 19" Kenda tube, and a 19" SR244.

I will have a go at mounting it soon, any tools required besides levels/baby powder?

The Kenda tube comes with two seemingly identical nuts on the valve stem. Is one of them meant to go on the inside? It looks like it would make the tube stick out a bit from the rim.

Missed this earlier, you got some good components here. I think you will like the MC conversion better than the bicycle rim/tire combo.

 

[bigbore]

Today is arrived my QS 205 and the first impression I have is that it is going to hold up some high Amps! The phase wires are huge

 

[Rix]

Today is arrived my QS 205 and the first impression I have is that it is going to hold up some high Amps! The phase wires are huge
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Very nice, those phase wires are 1/4" diameter. Very awesome indeed. When will you have it on?

 

[pucksterpete]

Yes, I am just using cheap Bikemaster rim strips and I haven't had any trouble yet (only a couple hundred miles though).

Got you beat on the cheap, I use duct tape torn in half, and run 4 laps around the rim. :lol:

I think I have you beat Rix, how much is your duct tape? I use hockey cloth ($2 a roll) take 2 or 3 turns around.

 

[Offroader]

I'm thinking about trying out a 16" prowheel rim for a 16x3.00 tire for a MXUS build.

I've been using a 17x3.00 shinko 241 and that has worked out really nice. Why not try a 16x3.00?

It will reduce the tire outside diameter 1 inch, from 23.7" to 22.68".

Does anyone think a 22.68" outside diameter will be way too small? I am concerned if it will not roll over stuff as well in the woods.

 

[Rix]

[
Got you beat on the cheap, I use duct tape torn in half, and run 4 laps around the rim. :lol:

I think I have you beat Rix, how much is your duct tape? I use hockey cloth ($2 a roll) take 2 or 3 turns around.[/quote]

Yah, you do, my duct tape cost me $4.95 for a roll. Its over 100 yds of ductape though.

 

[Rix]

I'm thinking about trying out a 16" prowheel rim for a 16x3.00 tire for a MXUS build.

I've been using a 17x3.00 shinko 241 and that has worked out really nice. Why not try a 16x3.00?

It will reduce the tire outside diameter 1 inch, from 23.7" to 22.68".

Does anyone think a 22.68" outside diameter will be way too small? I am concerned if it will not roll over stuff as well in the woods.

You know the deal, you will gain a little mechanical thrust leverage over the 17 and loose about 1/2" ground clearance. Here is a build from a guy in Norway, he is running a 19x1.4 MC rim and tire on the front and the 16x1.60 MC rim and tire on the rear. This combo looks good and no doubt Laresen has performer with the Adapto controller.

 

[Offroader]

Rix I'm thinking about trying out one of these Maxxcross IT tires.

The 70/100x17" tire weighs a little under 5 lbs. , I am guessing becuse the 70/100x19" weighs 5 lbs.
http://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-95-maxxcross-it

How do you think a knobby tire like that Maxxcross will perform compared to my 17x3.00 shinko 241 tire?

The biggest worry will be losing the nice cushioned ride the fat 3.00" shinko 241 tire has at 14PSI.

Do you think I could just lower the air pressure in the Maxxcross to get a similar feel?

The Shinko 241 3.00x17" weighs 6.5 LBS.

It is just hard to believe anything won't be a big step down from the 17x3.00" shinko 241, the tread compound is really soft and grips well, and the large tire size cushions the ride just perfectly.

 

[macribs]

I am sure the biggest change will be offroad. That MAXXIS tire has a really aggressive thread pattern. Most likely you will be able to go places you couldn't before.

 

[Rix]

Rix I'm thinking about trying out one of these Maxxcross IT tires.

The 70/100x17" tire weighs a little under 5 lbs. , I am guessing becuse the 70/100x19" weighs 5 lbs.
http://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-95-maxxcross-it

How do you think a knobby tire like that Maxxcross will perform compared to my 17x3.00 shinko 241 tire?

The biggest worry will be losing the nice cushioned ride the fat 3.00" shinko 241 tire has at 14PSI.

Do you think I could just lower the air pressure in the Maxxcross to get a similar feel?

The Shinko 241 3.00x17" weighs 6.5 LBS.

It is just hard to believe anything won't be a big step down from the 17x3.00" shinko 241, the tread compound is really soft and grips well, and the large tire size cushions the ride just perfectly.

I tried that tire in 70/100x19 on my Bomber back in the day. It worked very well off road, I mean it was literally about 5% better off road (except rocks) than the SR241. But it has lots of rolling resistance on the pavement though. You almost couldn't pedal it under human power. And on wet pavement, this tire sucks with a capital S. To this day, I have yet to find a tire that works EVERYWHERE as good as the SR241. I found a couple of tires that are better in the dirt, but not rocks, and a couple of tires that are better on paved roads, but nothing does them both as well as the SR241. IRC TR1 and VeeRubber VRM021 are slightly better on pavement than the SR241, but are also slight less traction wise off road than the SR241. I attribute this to the harder rubber compound the TR1 and VRM021 are made from.

 

[Offroader]

Good point, didn't think about the knobby tires rolling so badly which is a problem. Since I probably do at least 50% pavement they don't make sense.

I agree with the SR241, they just seem to be perfect for everything I do. They are smooth on pavement, grip everything and never fail offroad or do anything unpredictable. The big reason I figured I would consider trying the Max Cross tires is the fact they are 1.5lbs lighter.

Just to note to anyone reading this that when I comment on the SR241 I am talking the 3.00" size. The 2.75" size are of a noticeably harder compound and when going from 19x2.75 to a 17x3.00" tire the 3.00" tires made a huge difference.

The 2.75" are designed for the front and I believe front tires use a harder compound. The 3.00" are made for the rear and most rear tires use a softer compound in the rear and also the 3.00" has larger knobs. But you would have to test both for yourself as I didn't have my 19" tires as low PSI like I do my 17" which I run 12-14PSI.

 

[Rix]

The 2.75" are designed for the front and I believe front tires use a harder compound. The 3.00" are made for the rear and most rear tires use a softer compound in the rear and also the 3.00" has larger knobs. But you would have to test both for yourself as I didn't have my 19" tires as low PSI like I do my 17" which I run 12-14PSI.

DIdn't think about that, but yah, maybe there is a compound difference between front and rears.

 

[kiwiev]

Hey Rix

look what Santa bought me early 8) 8)

I picked it up from Samd 19" moto rim

Can you tell me what the closest front bike wheel will match is it a 24"?

Cheers Kiwi

 

[Mammalian04]

Wow, those are some knobs. Heh heh

... and I like the black spokes with the beefy knows. Tougher look.

 

[Rix]

Hey Rix

look what Santa bought me early 8) 8)

I picked it up from Samd 19" moto rim

Can you tell me what the closest front bike wheel will match is it a 24"?

Cheers Kiwi

Yah, a 24MTB rim/tire combo is only 1/2 or 12.52 outer diameter larger and real close to the same size. That said, a 26MTB wheel/tire combo even though a couple of inches bigger, looks great with a 19MC wheel. That is a nice wheel build there. Sam does top notch work.

///Edit/// Sam what did you come up with for spoke length? guessing between 125mm and 130mm long.