19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)

Here is a short video of my FLX Alpha running the Adapto MAX E with 18 MC on the rear and 19 MC on the front.

[youtube]8YlwmZqYowc[/youtube]
 
Yes i have seen just the cheng 2.0 looks flimsy. So I guess my next choice is 19 inch X 2.25. I live in Southern California what's a good moped tire supplier for 19 inch 2.25 ? I guess I just don't know how to look for it
 
999zip999 said:
Yes i have seen just the cheng 2.0 looks flimsy. So I guess my next choice is 19 inch X 2.25. I live in Southern California what's a good moped tire supplier for 19 inch 2.25 ? I guess I just don't know how to look for it

I deal with Cedar Rapids tire and Bike Bandit for the un popular size tires, and Motorcycle accessory warehouse motorcyclesuperstore for more popular tires.
 
Jimboyr6 said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270646414646
2 ply as well

This tire actually looks promising as an all around all terrain tire, I would be very interested in hearing what people who have ran this tire have to say about it.
 
Hi I just ordered the mxus from merlin and wondered if anyone knows if these rims can take tubeless tyres. Are the beads different/cross compatible?

2016-05-12_15h00_54.png


I understand il need a tube whatever unless I modify it. Going for the 19 inch 70mm hopefully

K770FSouthwick.jpg


http://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/Tyres/Kenda/K770F-Southwick/70-100-19-TL-42M-NHS/R-136845

Thanks if anyone can help
 
Running tubeless is fine, no problem. You will have to modify as you said.
Glue, silicon or tape will work. If you trust your wheel truing skills and are sure you will not need to retighten spokes any day soon a dab of glue (ie sikaflex) in each spoke hole and then a round of fiber strengthen gaffa tape and you are all good and ready. You can even ride low tire pressure.

If you get a flat running tubeless it is a 2 minute fix, with time left for a smoke 8)
 
macribs said:
Running tubeless is fine, no problem. You will have to modify as you said.
Glue, silicon or tape will work. If you trust your wheel truing skills and are sure you will not need to retighten spokes any day soon a dab of glue (ie sikaflex) in each spoke hole and then a round of fiber strengthen gaffa tape and you are all good and ready. You can even ride low tire pressure.

If you get a flat running tubeless it is a 2 minute fix, with time left for a smoke 8)

What MacRibs said, also, PM Emmett. He has done the modification to the Nutech Tubliss system and has successfully ran it on his Fighter.
 
Could I just run a tubeless tyre with a tube? I thought I read the beads can be different. Might have misread it :)

I just really like the kenda profile (looks the most rear like even though its a front). But it says tubeless and didnt want to order it incase I was making an obvious mc tyre newbie error
 
bionicdan said:
Could I just run a tubeless tyre with a tube? I thought I read the beads can be different. Might have misread it :)

I just really like the kenda profile (looks the most rear like even though its a front). But it says tubeless and didnt want to order it incase I was making an obvious mc tyre newbie error

Thats not a problem running a tubless tire with a tube. Done it for years on my Dual Sport MC.
 
Rix said:
bionicdan said:
Could I just run a tubeless tyre with a tube? I thought I read the beads can be different. Might have misread it :)

I just really like the kenda profile (looks the most rear like even though its a front). But it says tubeless and didnt want to order it incase I was making an obvious mc tyre newbie error

Thats not a problem running a tubless tire with a tube. Done it for years on my Dual Sport MC.

On a MC it is no problems. On an e-bike if less unsprung weight matters tubeless tires might not be optimal. Because of the stiffer sidewalls they tend to be fatter on the scale then say 2 ply tube tires. My choice would be to run a regular 2 ply tire meant for being used with tube, then ditch the tube and go "ghetto tubeless" or at least cut off and remove half to tube to reduce weight. Remember the further from wheel hub the weight is placed the more it matters. So saving weight for quicker handling makes sense, even with fat rims and moto tires.

It all depends on what kind of riding you fancy the most. If you ride mostly street and gravel roads just get whatever is an easy buy and got the looks you are after. If you are more into technical riding, singletrack etc weight do matter.
 
It's worth pointing out that tubeless rated tires weigh more than conventional tires of equivalent construction. To some degree, they're just laminating a tube into the tire.

I'll bet a quality tire plus lightweight latex tube weighs less than a tubeless rated equivalent tire plus sealant. And it's worlds easier to deal with-- when you get a flat on the trail, when you have to scrape the cottage cheese out of your tire every few weeks, or anytime the tire has to come off for wheel service.
 
Anyone ever ride their ebike with a flat in the rear?

I rode my shinko 241 for 9 miles / 14.5 km today with a complete flat in my shinko 241 17" 3" tire. Had to keep the bike about 20 MPH max. I tried to weight the front of the bike by leaning on the handlebars to take some weight off the rear.


I should have known something was wrong and went home earlier because I felt something not right with the rear, so it must have been a slow leak.

When tire was mostly deflated but not fully I drove too fast and finally ripped the valve off the tube which made it completely flat for the 9 miles I had to ride back. It seems like if you have a small puncture the tube will stay a little inflated which makes riding with the flat much better, but if you rip the valve off then it gets completely flat. It seems the tube will not go completely flat with a small puncture and that makes a big difference.

Kind of all sucks, but I think the tire is fine, will need to replace the tube.
 
I'm using hte same tire in 16" for my rear SB Cruiser tires; good to know they'll survive a flat-ride if necessary (that's a secondary part of why I tried them over another set of bicycle tires).

Are you using metal-valve-stem types that use a nut to secure them to the rim? Or just the regular rubber type?

I ask because I'm using the former with these tires, and am hoping that will prevent the ripping-off of valve stems if I do get a sudden complete flat (preventing me from re-airing the tire). I already have had that happen so many times with regular stems. :/
 
If you have the tire off for a new tube, put two tubes back in. One in each hole of the moto rim valve holes (differentiate the two so you don't fill the wrong one). Then if you get a puncture, you can just inflate the other (if both weren't punctured). I plan on doing this next time I have my tires off. I stole this idea a while back from either Rix or Chalo I think.
 
I'm using the metal valve stem with the nut. It will hold somewhat but I think if you drive really fast like I did, 30-35MPH with really low PSI, under 5 PSI, you are going to rip the tube off.

Thinking about it, I think what may have been the case is that when you first get a flat, the tire is still stuck to the sides of the rim and stays more round, until the tire breaks off the side you have a much better ride with a flat. When the tire finally breaks free from the sides of the rim it then just folds to one side and is much worse to ride on. I think this may be the case.

I actually had a small puncture a month ago and the tire was much easier to ride home. When I pushed on the tire it still felt like the tube had air in it but that wasn't possible with the puncture. This was probably because the tire didn't break free from the sides of the rim and stayed more round and therefore more firm. This was also why I was able to ride a couple of miles today before it went completely went flat even though it was obvious I had a bad flat tire.

What I learned today is that once you feel something not right with the bike, like something doesn't feel as stable, I had lots of time actually because I was even checking if my rear rim was loose at one point long before I noticed I had a flat, then you just have to ride home immediately.

That isn't a bad idea using two tubes, I just wouldn't personally do it because of the extra weight. Flats are really rare, but I've been doing a lot of city riding lately in Manhattan so I guess it is a lot more likely to get a puncture.
 
Mammalian04 said:
If you have the tire off for a new tube, put two tubes back in. One in each hole of the moto rim valve holes (differentiate the two so you don't fill the wrong one). Then if you get a puncture, you can just inflate the other (if both weren't punctured). I plan on doing this next time I have my tires off. I stole this idea a while back from either Rix or Chalo I think.

It must have been Chalo. I have known about the dual tube trick for over 2 decades, but haven't done it on any of my ebikes.
 
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