19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
Rix
100 TW
Offroader said:
And thats why I dont run the thick tubes
MrDude_1
100 kW
Offroader said:
I run the very thick, prefilled with Slime tubes.
Because I have to deal with beach thorns. lol.
They're not a waste, they're just specific to an application, and some people buy them for the wrong one.
Offroader said:
not many run 3" tires.
and no, you dont NEED less air...you CAN.
with an 1.4" Rim and just 10psi your tire may jump of your rim on fast corners.
theres no side stability using a 3" tire on a 1.4" rim.
edit:
thats equal to FAT BIKES with 80 or 100mm Rims can ride with just 6PSI on 4" Wide Tires.
a 4" Fatbike Tire will also fit a 40mm Bicycle rim. But with only 6-7PSI the tire will jump of the rim. (definitly!)
Rix
100 TW
Merlin said:
I agree with you Merlin, I just want to point out that the MC tires most folks are running on ebikes are 4 ply with some even being 6 ply tires. Your heavy duty MTB tire like the Duro Razor back is a 2 ply tire and the fat tire bikes I have seen, to keep weight down on those big wide tires is probably 2 ply, or even single ply. SO with the 4 and 6 ply tires, the tire is LESS likely to "jump" off the rim because the side walls are so stiff, even with a thinner than recommended rim. But, it could still happen.
thats true rix....
since my girl had a fat bike (i still hate that shit *lol)
i know that it sucks alot changing the tire pressure for street and offroad use.(its 1PLY)
a bit funny when you change first time a fat bike tire....
after you open the valve and all air is out. grab the rim turn it once and without touching the tire felt of the rim :lol:
what i want to say:
if you run a 3" shinko with 10psi offroad, it is superb riding.
and if we talk about 1,6" and 1,4" Rims i dont think it matters.
but on street i wouldnt ride with such low psi on a 1.4" rim. comparing to trial bikes riding SR241 with just 4PSI (and no need for cornering force) on 1.85 and 2.15" Rims my old BETA instruction manual say also that i have to "minimum tripple"(!) the psi within street use.
since my girl had a fat bike (i still hate that shit *lol)
i know that it sucks alot changing the tire pressure for street and offroad use.(its 1PLY)
a bit funny when you change first time a fat bike tire....
after you open the valve and all air is out. grab the rim turn it once and without touching the tire felt of the rim :lol:
what i want to say:
if you run a 3" shinko with 10psi offroad, it is superb riding.
and if we talk about 1,6" and 1,4" Rims i dont think it matters.
but on street i wouldnt ride with such low psi on a 1.4" rim. comparing to trial bikes riding SR241 with just 4PSI (and no need for cornering force) on 1.85 and 2.15" Rims my old BETA instruction manual say also that i have to "minimum tripple"(!) the psi within street use.
Rix
100 TW
Merlin said:
Again very true. Trials riders typically run between 5 and 7 PSI, great for hooking up on rocks and crawling over stuff, but thats it. Riding with that low of PSI on the street, the tire will get hot quick and feel spongy in the corners. I have found with the SR241 running the tire PSI between 18 and 22 PSI is the sweet spot for road and off road riding. With a rim lock might be able to go down a little lower and still have good street manners, but I don't run a rim lock.
BCTECH
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got a flat tire 8-10 miles away from home, had to push that heavy bike all the way. terrible experience. I thought MC tire/tube was pretty strong so I didn't carry a spare tube/pump with me.
which tube do you guys use that has best quality ? I was using bikemaster but now want something better. will the HD version help? I understand it is heavy but I rather carry 1-2 lbs more than get a flat like that.
do you guys carry a small pump / Co2 or extra tube on your ride? changing mx tube on site might be very difficult, do you suggest carrying a bunch of co2 is a good idea?
which tube do you guys use that has best quality ? I was using bikemaster but now want something better. will the HD version help? I understand it is heavy but I rather carry 1-2 lbs more than get a flat like that.
do you guys carry a small pump / Co2 or extra tube on your ride? changing mx tube on site might be very difficult, do you suggest carrying a bunch of co2 is a good idea?
Chalo
100 TW
I'd you use bicycle rims and tires, getting a flat on the road or trail is no big deal. Just sayin'. And your rim, tire, tube, spare tube, patch kit, and pump all together will weigh less than just the MC tire.
For front bicycle flats just have a patch kit and a couple of plastic tire levers, and I guess a very leightweight pump or CO2 air. You can fix a flat easily without even having to remove the front wheel. Weighs practically nothing, mount under your seat.
For the rear or if you are using a MC tire, you won't be able to fix those unless you carry heavy tire levers which is not worth it. Just drive the bike very slowly with the flat. Push up the valve into the rim if you want to save the tube from ripping at the valve. I drove 9 miles home with a flat rear without any issues, had to keep the bike around 20MPH. You will usually have some time before the tire breaks from the sidewalls and goes completely flat where you can easily ride for miles at high speeds. Try and put all your weight on the front tire to make the ride easier.
Actually, I should get a light Co2 air pump for an emergency.
For the rear or if you are using a MC tire, you won't be able to fix those unless you carry heavy tire levers which is not worth it. Just drive the bike very slowly with the flat. Push up the valve into the rim if you want to save the tube from ripping at the valve. I drove 9 miles home with a flat rear without any issues, had to keep the bike around 20MPH. You will usually have some time before the tire breaks from the sidewalls and goes completely flat where you can easily ride for miles at high speeds. Try and put all your weight on the front tire to make the ride easier.
Actually, I should get a light Co2 air pump for an emergency.
Chalo
100 TW
If you have a bicycle tire on the rear, you can do a Dutch style repair. Dismount one side of the tire, find the hole in the tube and patch it, then remount the tire. The wheel doesn't have to come off at all.
Car and truck tires are pretty strong, too, but can still get flats for a number of reasons.BCTECH said:
What caused your flat?
See this thread:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=82771
for some active recent discussion of causes and solutions.
BCTECH
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amberwolf said:
I think it was some stone chip on a gravel road, for sure not a nail. nothing much around except trees and stones
I did punch one tube when I install the tire with the iron and that was my mistake. just wonder is there any stronger tube out there, at least reduce the chance of getting a flat
the bikemaster tube and IRC I have is around $10, there is one from Bridgestone costs $20. not sure if any quality difference
You dismount one side and pull the whole tube out so you can inspect it and find the hole.
Those CO2 kits weigh like 16 grams. You're probably looking at like 50 -70 grams for patch kit, co2, 2 plastic tire levers. Just tape it under your rear seat.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2673-Chuck-Inflator/dp/B003BMDI9E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pl_foot_top?ie=UTF8
You have bad luck because I've never got a flat yet on my front tire that left me stranded. This is because I use those Mr tuffy tire liners in the front.
Those CO2 kits weigh like 16 grams. You're probably looking at like 50 -70 grams for patch kit, co2, 2 plastic tire levers. Just tape it under your rear seat.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2673-Chuck-Inflator/dp/B003BMDI9E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pl_foot_top?ie=UTF8
You have bad luck because I've never got a flat yet on my front tire that left me stranded. This is because I use those Mr tuffy tire liners in the front.
Rix
100 TW
BCTECH said:
Yah, get some of those and tell us how much PITA they are to mount, literally almost as hard to mount a tire as running a Bib Mousse. The upside as you noted, would never have a flat.
Rix
100 TW
Offroader said:
You smell that stink, thats me because I am the $h!t. I'm so good, I can mount my MC tires on rims with only 2 tire irons :lol:
BCTECH
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Offroader said:
ok, have to take the whole wheel out. a bit difficult with MC wheel
did you put the Mr tuffy on the rear tire? or it just work with bicycle tire?
never use those co2 before, but do people constantly use them mile to mile enough getting home?
Can only use it on the front bicycle tire, use the ultralight. I can't say for sure if they work, however, I have to admit that I've yet to get a flat with them on the front, other than a slow leak once. I've gotten a few flats on the rear, which surprises me because the rear tire is more heavy duty with thicker knobs.
I wouldn't do anything about the rear, it rarely goes flat. If it does you just ride on it after pushing up the valve. Don't hit anything obviously as you may dent the rim. But very doable. Try and put as much weight on the handlebars as you can. The 2nd you notice something odd with your handling, and think you may have a flat, start riding back home immediately as the tire stays in place for a while with almost no air.
Co2 is just to refill the tire with air, you will have to patch the tire first.
I wouldn't do anything about the rear, it rarely goes flat. If it does you just ride on it after pushing up the valve. Don't hit anything obviously as you may dent the rim. But very doable. Try and put as much weight on the handlebars as you can. The 2nd you notice something odd with your handling, and think you may have a flat, start riding back home immediately as the tire stays in place for a while with almost no air.
Co2 is just to refill the tire with air, you will have to patch the tire first.
Rix
100 TW
:lol: :lol:Merlin said:
macribs
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BCTECH said:
Well as you know first hand even MC tires gets punctured, and running MC tires with tubes just makes the MC tires experience a pain imho. Reason is that in the event of a flat when running tubeless, the air will leak out very slowly - slower then if you puncture a MC tire n' tube setup. Then there is the roadside repairs. Who carries along all what is needed to repair a tire and tube setup roadside? My guess very few if any.
On the other hand, if you run tubeless and get a flat no problems. It is an easy fix as long as sidewalls of tires are not ripped and almost always flats are caused by objects penetrating the tire. Remove the nail, spike, screw etc and just plug the whole with tubeless repair kit, ie Dynaplug Pro / micro Pro and refill with Co2 or nitrogen cartridge(s). The whole operation of a roadside repair that most likely are to last the rest of the tires lifetime is less then 1 minute altogether.
And even if you can fit Dynaplug and cartridges under you seat or in a shirt pocket, if for some reason you find yourself without tubeless repair set and are caught with a flat, just leave whatever object that is penetrating your tire and ride home. Odds are you will be home before tire is completely empty.
And lets not forget a DIY tubeless tire setup might even save you some weight and where the weight has the biggest impact, as rotational mass furthest away from the hub center of the wheel.
BCTECH said:
@Chalo, why put yourself through all the agony? Tubeless is king.
@BCTCH why complicate things and add mass and increase costs when you could remove mass and simplify?
Smallest and lightest tubeless repair kit afaik. http://www.dynaplug.com/products.html
Why Dynaplug? https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dynaplug+kits
Chalo
100 TW
macribs said:
What agony? The pain I see is when someone spends 30 minutes or more doing a tubeless tire service that would have taken 5 minutes at most to change the tube. And makes a mess in the process. And breaks a couple of tire levers. And then comes back in after a little while to do it again because the bead is still leaking.
I've seen this kind of stuff happen enough times, alongside the trouble-free proven way, to know it's only for fetishists.
Edit:
I just checked out that Dynaplug crap you linked to. Only a fool would intentionally rupture a fine threaded tire casing to "repair" it. Do your tires even run straight anymore?
