19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)

[Rix]

Here are some pics of the completed wheel:

View attachment 2

Hey Ch00p, what kind of front hub is that? I see in your build thread you say "Czechoslovakia." Is that really the name?

It is the cheapest 20mm thru axle hub in existence. It is a Force brand hub sold by some dude with a hairy back and only 2 teeth who lives in the Czech Republic (I got in trouble for calling Czechksjdfhlksjh sorry can't spell it right now - too tired) I would not recommend it.

I found the vendor's picture online and he looks reputable but I don't know...



The non brake side has a much smaller diameter than the brake side and getting even 13 gauge spokes into the holes on that side was tough. They really had to be forced because of the angle. The only positive side was the price and that it was a sealed bearing hub. It was $38 for the hub and another $10 for the side spacers. I had a real hard time finding a 36h 20mm thru axle hub. there are plenty of 32h hubs cheap but not 36.

If I had it to do over again, I would either buy the Hope hub for $100 or I would buy the Prowheel rim for the 85cc "expert" bikes front wheel. it is 19 x 1.4 but has 28 holes. these are for the honda and suzuki 85cc big wheel bikes. you can find a 28 hole hub a lot easier than a 36 hole. but this would work for the front wheel only. Which, come to think of it has not yet been discussed on this thread.

So for anyone interested, another option for the front wheel (assuming a rear drive build) would be the expert 19 x 1.4 rims with a 28h hub. It also looks like the rims for the yz85 big wheel are 19 x 1.4 with 32 holes so there would be even more choices for hubs.

I guess there are a lot more options than previously determined.

But, to answer your question, I would stay away from this hub and I will be replacing it at my earliest convenience. If you really want a cheap hub though here is the link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18129968775...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Yah, I had Volt Riders lace a 32 hole 18x1.4 rim to a Marzocchi 20mm DH hub for me. They did a great job. I cant lace 3X worth crap, I will post a pic it tomorrow.

 

[Hyena]

I thought I'd post this pic here too seeing as it's relevant and a good size comparison between 26" and 19" wheels on the bike
(my new, incomplete raptor build)

 

[Rix]

Tough looking machine Jay, should be a fun machine when you are done giving it the Hyena touch.

 

[100volts+]

Thanks everyone for all the imput to this topic. I've been reading it and re-reading it, Also GCinDC for starting this topic, and Rix who's been there and done that. I can't believe I ordered the right s$#t the first time to build a 19"motorcycle wheel with a cromotor inside. Oh yeah, must not forget to thank my wife for letting me use the breakfast room for the build instead of that hot ass garage.

 

[Mammalian04]

Very nice 100+

 

[Rix]

Thanks everyone for all the imput to this topic. I've been reading it and re-reading it, Also GCinDC for starting this topic, and Rix who's been there and done that. I can't believe I ordered the right s$#t the first time to build a 19"motorcycle wheel with a cromotor inside. Oh yeah, must not forget to thank my wife for letting me use the breakfast room for the build instead of that hot ass garage.

Yes, having a supporting wife is icing the cake. Shes a keeper. Wheel looks fantastic, please share your findings and how you like it.

Rick

 

[Metallover]

I've been digging my way through this thread!

I have a Cromotor laced into a 26 inch bicycle tire. In the interest of slightly better efficiency and better tire life I want to lace it into a 19 inch pro-wheel. I'm going to order spokes from JRH and I'll order 36 126.4 mm 11/12 gauge spokes and nipples and washers. I didn't see a gauge so I'll order standard 12 gauge with moped/MC rim nipple/washer set: Does that sound right?

Sweet wheel! Are these the spokes that ended up working for you?

I have a Cromotor and 19x1.4" wheel myself. I won't need any extra washers.

I have the rim, tire, rim strip, tube, and motor now. Will I need to wait for JRH's 90* spokes to come back in stock before I get further?

 

[100volts+]

Metallover, jrh was out of the 11/12 spokes so I ordered the 12 gauge Sapim spokes from him at 130 millimeters in length. The thread came to the bottom of the screwdriver groove in the nipple. You can probably order 129 millimeters and get away with it. it has worked out so far but I haven't actually tested the bike with itso I will see how it goes it'll be a few daystill I am able to mount it and test it.

 

[Metallover]

Thanks! I ordered a set of 129mm 12 gauge Sapim spokes. I'm thinking a few mm won't make or break the wheel build. I'll post it when I get it all in!

I've got battery enclosure and a freewheel to decide on, then once everything arrives I'll be rolling!

 

[wingsuit]

I like the look of my 19" rims with the shinkos, but won't be able to report performance till my batteries get here. Will be even better when I get this mx seat I'm mocking up built. I'm thinking of going with mx pegs and stop pretending this thing will ever be peddled.

 

[100volts+]

Very nice wingsuit. That frame looks fairly large.

 

[100volts+]

I've looked around the net to see if the Shinko SR241 is a directional tire. I know the 244 is bi-directional. I don't see an arrow or anything on the tire but my eyesight isn't what it used to be.

 

[Rix]

I've looked around the net to see if the Shinko SR241 is a directional tire. I know the 244 is bi-directional. I don't see an arrow or anything on the tire but my eyesight isn't what it used to be.

Both the 241 and 244 or bi-directional. If the 241 isn't I havent been able to find a the arrow yet, when I asked my dad if he could see the arrow, he said he couldn't : . I guess that meant there was no arrow for direction.

 

[Rix]

Tossing the idea around to put my 5403 with the 17x1.4 on the Fighter. I will need to go with a 10.5 rear shock to keep the bottom bracket height in the sweet spot (13.5-14.5 inches off the ground). Bought some 160mm Schlumpf crank arms for pedal clearance compensation with the smaller wheel. Also have a 32 hole 19x1.4 rim lace to a Marzocchi 20mm through axle hub I am debating to mount on the front. If I do this, wont be for a bit. My motivation is maximizing mechanical advantage for performance gain. Even though I ran this combo before, with all of the praise/talk Offroader has had with his 3.00-17 SR241 vs his older 2.75-19 set up on the Qulbix thread, he got me thinking again. 8)

Rick

 

[1KW]

great thread. treat land also has 18" tires. 18x2.5, I wonder if a 24" tire would mount to this like a 20" bmx on 16" moped wheels.

I was going to run with a 16" moped wheelset, however I like to climb over things on basic single track. when I owned my moped, the good thing about having a common wheelsize is that I walked to walmart and put a bmx tire on it and rode home. using hard to get sizes that require the internet to order can have it's negatives.

is suspension really required with a 19" mc wheel swap? I figured 5-10lbs extra per wheel, but if you could use a hardtail the weight savings could be there... I had a hardtail puch free spirit once and with 16x3.0 tires it rode better than the suspension variant on 16 x 2.25

 

[Rix]

Welcome to the thread 1KW, no a 24MTB wont mount to a 19MC rim. 24MTB have a 20.5 inch rim. The reason 20BMX wheel can have a 16MC tire mounted is because the rim is actually 16 inches OD. There is a MC tire size out there, 3.00-20 made by cocker tires with an OD of 26+ inches that in theory could mount to a 24MTB rim, if the rim was wide enough to accommodate the bead. But that size MC tire is rare. For decent road and offroad performance, best bet is to go with something in the 17x1.4 to 19x1.4 rim size range.

 

[1KW]

thanks rix, I'm still curious about the hard tail vs suspension with these beefy wheels…

how much does it cost to lace it up yourself?

 

[Rix]

thanks rix, I'm still curious about the hard tail vs suspension with these beefy wheels…

how much does it cost to lace it up yourself?

Obviously you will save between 55 and 100 dollars for lacing yourself, so it really boils down to getting the spokes and rim you want to use. I am not super ebay savvy but I know some guys had gotten into motorcycle rims and spokes for under 100 bucks. I only use the highest quality stuff I can find, and needless to say, a set spokes for the build I have done myself run 80-96 dollars just by them selves with another 100 for a good rim. If you need help figuring out your spoke length, several of us here can help with that. I always measure my own ERD "effective rim diameter" and hub flange diameters and input that info into Justin's online spoke calculator on the Grin Cycle at www.ebikes.ca Built 5 rear wheels so far and four of the five I used Justin's spoke calculator, because I use extra long nipples (18mm instead of 16mm or 14mm) for computing ERD, my spokes are a little long, which now I subtract 3mm from every calculation I get. the only issue I had with some of my lace jobs was grinding spokes after true so they wouldn't poke holes in the tube.

Rick

 

[Offroader]

I'll post some of my findings. I used the 19x1.4 with shinko 19x2.75. That was a decent tire and much better than any bicycle rear tire.

I then switched down to a 17x1.6 rim with 17x3.00 shinko 241, this far exceeded the 19x2.75" shinko 241 for my uses.

The 17" offers much better climbing and acceleration. But also the 17x3.00 is much fatter and has longer knobs than the 2.75", and feel softer. I also run 15PSI air pressure on the 17" and this helps tremendously with stopping the rear from bouncing when hitting things, and also cushions that heavy rear.

Overall, 17" is much better if you can fit it on your bike without lowing the bike too much.

The other option I think you guys should consider is the 18" and 18x3.00" 241 shinko tire. This tire is a little smaller than the 19x2.75 but it is much fatter and offers the many advantages like the fatter 17x3.00" tire.

Really, I think the 18x3.00 option should always be used over the 19x2.75. Our heavy rears with a heavy hubmotor in the rim really needs a fatter tire run at lower PSI to cushion it in my opinion. Bicycle suspension just can't deal with a heavy rear wheel properly, and what may work for a bicycle certainly won't work for our bikes.

But this all depends on what you're doing with the bike, if your only street riding then you probably don't need a fat 3" tire with low air pressure. Although it does offer for a much more comfortable ride when hitting anything.

Here is my bike with a 17x1.6 and 17x3.00" shinko tire. I have adjustable suspension so bottom bracket height stayed at 14".

This is just my thoughts here and you guys should be trying multiple tires and sizes to find what works best for you.

 

[100volts+]

I then switched down to a 17x1.6 rim with 17x3.00 shinko 241, this far exceeded the 19x2.75" shinko 241 for my uses.

The 17" offers much better climbing and acceleration. But also the 17x3.00 is much fatter and has longer knobs than the 2.75", and feel softer. I also run 15PSI air pressure on the 17" and this helps tremendously with stopping the rear from bouncing when hitting things, and also cushions that heavy rear.

I gotta admit, i'm bitten by the tire bug. I love the 19x1.4 yamaha playbike rim and shinko sr241 tire. I just have my bike for a fairly short commutes to work through quiet suburban streets and one higher speed road,no hills. I still want to try the 17 inch rear tire with 19 inch mc tire up front but i need to go to a shorter crank first.

 

[1KW]

my cromotor is in route, already in a 17" wheel

frame shopping time.

 

[100volts+]

You'll love I'm sure. Make sure you can use short cranks. I've got extended bb spindles (127mm) to clear a custom heavy duty swing arm.

 

[1KW]

yep! now I'm at that trying to find frame/controller/battery quest..

dh frame needed, but they lack the space..

 

[100volts+]

yep! now I'm at that trying to find frame/controller/battery quest..

dh frame needed, but they lack the space..

Yeah that part took the most thought. I wanted at least 28s10ah lipo and my 150v 24 fet controller is huge. here is a couple of pics of the aluminum panniers and battery cover with 19 inch mc wheel. I needed it all in front to compensate for the weight of the rim tire and cromotor.

 

[Ch00paKabrA]

Finally done.



The MAC is not white yet but I got some advice in another thread and there may be another Front MAC thrown into this equation.

'Cal