2 Speed Xiongda hubmotor

That could be quite true, I always manually downshift @ about 20kmh when it starts to labour, if i left auto on it would go down to 15 or less before shift, which is when it is really struggling.
For reference, on flat it would auto upshift about 20-21kmh and on moderate hills holds about 18-19 in low. I definately agree that it could down shift earlier, so long as it is not like my 36v KT where auto was useless, shifting down too often/early then upshifting soon after...
Of course, it would be different running on full throttle compared to pas and my speedo hall is busted so it only reads when accelerating
 
I thought that my low/high shift programming was well thought out. It seemed that the motor was allowed to stop on it's own and somehow "soft start" into loading in high gear. I thought that, based on the time it takes to shift and the smoothness of the load pick up. But since the shift takes a second, and is obvious, I think I can develop a habit of backing off the throttle and then easing back in when I know I'm in high. The REAL solution is a strong enough gear, but I'm ok with any easy changes in my riding habits that will give me decent reliability. I.e. WAY more than 200 miles between catastrophic failures..
 
bigoilbob said:
I thought that my low/high shift programming was well thought out. It seemed that the motor was allowed to stop on it's own and somehow "soft start" into loading in high gear. I thought that, based on the time it takes to shift and the smoothness of the load pick up. But since the shift takes a second, and is obvious, I think I can develop a habit of backing off the throttle and then easing back in when I know I'm in high. The REAL solution is a strong enough gear, but I'm ok with any easy changes in my riding habits that will give me decent reliability. I.e. WAY more than 200 miles between catastrophic failures..

You have the Lishui too right? which from all accounts shifts noticeably faster than the KT (by faster I mean the second or two it take to stop and change direction)
My 48v KT is a bit faster than the 36v but still too slow, as I lose up to 5kmh from the shift itself, which is one reason I always manually shift down, as I have to account for the speed lost and aim for it to engage @ about 15-18kmh

I did interpret what Bonnie was saying is that it stays in H too long and so the motor struggles when it should have downshifted earlier?

TBH I'd think the shift from L to H under load would be the moment more likely to cause your failure - eg: on a gentle to med hill in L it auto-shifts and now engages H under full throttle and high load. Or in the other case where the shift causes it to lose a few k's and drop below the efficient rpm's and is already bogged down/struggling when it engages H

But I agree, it would seem easier to make stronger gears,if there are stronger plastics, as metals will make it very noisy, maybe switching to Helical gears as they can be quieter and more distributed load on teeth.
Though for long-term solutions I think they also need to adjust the gear ratios more like 4:1 & 7:1 (instead of 8:1) so there is better overlap, because when I am on the cusp (20kmh) none of the gears work well L too slow, H too bogged down.
 
Yes, I have the Lishui.

What size drive wheel/tire? If you tell me I can then ratio your referenced speeds down to those for my 16" wheel/maxxis hookworm tire. I'm guessing that our torque/power/ amps/volts v rotational velocity curves are similar.

And thx once again for your past posts. I'll keep the thread updated, with pix, on my reconstruction/future reliability.......
 
bigoilbob said:
Yes, I have the Lishui.

What size drive wheel/tire? If you tell me I can then ratio your referenced speeds down to those for my 16" wheel/maxxis hookworm tire. I'm guessing that our torque/power/ amps/volts v rotational velocity curves are similar.

And thx once again for your past posts. I'll keep the thread updated, with pix, on my reconstruction/future reliability.......

700c Wheel 32 Tyre from http://www.bikecalc.com/wheel_size_math so about 2m per RPM
Rim ↓ Tire Rim (iso) ↓ Tire ↓ Wheel ↓ Circumference of Wheel mm ↓
28inch 32 mm 635 32.00 699.00 2195.97
 
ktmede said:
Can anyone share how the Lishui 48v controller and C600 LCD work with PAS. I would like to compare it to my KT48SVPR-XD15 / KT-LCD3 combo.
With the KT48S / KT-LCD3, the "assist" from the motor increases with each PAS level by about 80 to 100 watts.
The assist does only stop if I pedal hard enough to get past the maximum speed (~ 22km/h in Low and ~ 38km/h in High)
In other words, in PAS 1 I need to work hard to get to about 35 km/h in PAS 5 I just need to keep the pedals turning.
Is this the same with the Lishui 48v controller / C600 LCD display combo?
Is there nobody with Lishui 48v controller / C600 LCD combo and using it with PAS?
 
menvert.

New central gear installed, uneventfully. PTFE gear grease on the 3 nylon gears, lighter PTFE lube on the other side. Tested it, and the noise is about the same as before. But I think my range is up. From ~25 miles to ~31. And MAYBE more high gear torque - from my PTFE oil? Sample size of one long ride, though, so I'm not claiming this yet. Anyhow, ~50 km down, ~8,250 left to match your impressive total.

FYI, I closely observed my amps during and directly after auto shifts up. I think Xiongdang did this very thoughtfully. You can see (and feel) high gear engagement, but amps increase over a period of about the next second. I.e., they tried to design in minimal shock/momentum loading. All the more reason to blame poor central gear material selection and/or design. I just hope that your lube processes work as well for me as they did for you.....
 
Good to hear bigoilbob,
The gradual amp-up is why they chose sine wave controllers pretty early on I believe.

I certainly got better range, or rather less Ah used for my standard commute consistently with the thin ptfe in the clutch, will be good to see if it pans out simmilarly with you.

I am out of action for now, HK Lipo after about 200 cycles is no longer safe, one cell no longer goes 38k and bricks are puffing. Hope to have replacement in a week or 2
 
menvert, get a new battery yet? Forgive the continued bugging, but with your reliability record, you're a resource. How do you charge your battery? I've read that(1) it's good to deep discharge occasionally - ~1/month, (2) charge up before ~50% is gone, as much as possible, and (3) unplug when charged. But on (3) I also read (from my battery seller) that the battery management system (BMS) handles leaving the battery plugged in. And in the LiPo charging instructions for my weed whacker and cordless drill both say that they can be left on charge.

My bat seems to work well, and never heats up at all. Charge times are right on queue with listed charge rates. But it cost me more than my first car, and I really want to get a good life out of it.

Anyhow, still riding, and my gear noise seems to have lessened. Wife and I are taking to the beach in Florida next week, to let the seniors ogle it.

Thanks again for your time, and hope you're back on already......
 
bigoilbob said:
menvert, get a new battery yet? Forgive the continued bugging, but with your reliability record, you're a resource. How do you charge your battery? I've read that(1) it's good to deep discharge occasionally - ~1/month, (2) charge up before ~50% is gone, as much as possible, and (3) unplug when charged. But on (3) I also read (from my battery seller) that the battery management system (BMS) handles leaving the battery plugged in. And in the LiPo charging instructions for my weed whacker and cordless drill both say that they can be left on charge.

My bat seems to work well, and never heats up at all. Charge times are right on queue with listed charge rates. But it cost me more than my first car, and I really want to get a good life out of it.

Anyhow, still riding, and my gear noise seems to have lessened. Wife and I are taking to the beach in Florida next week, to let the seniors ogle it.

Thanks again for your time, and hope you're back on already......

Yeah I got a new battery sorted, my motor is running nicely still, but as I said I now have a rattle in low like a missing roller spring, not bothering me much, the other sounds has calmed down now also.
I went with a Hobby King MultiStar 16Ah LiPo again, these are a whole different category of battery... Designed for RC High Drain Quad-copters, No BMS so treatment of these requires a lot more care(NEVER charge unattended, Use a special balance charger, check individual cell voltages regularly, don't discharge too far because there is no BMS to turn it off, charge and store where a fire can be managed)


But for the commercial ebike packs with BMS and 1 plug charger like the NMC chemistry ones that seem to be the most common now, My view is;
-Don't discharge more than 80% (to extend life) although 50% would be even healthier, but not often realistic (mine get me home and back just before 80% gone)
-Generally there is no issue to battery performance (except point below) if left on the charger once charged, as the BMS basically turns off the charger, however for fire safety I would un-plug when charged and still don't charge any Lithium battery unattended
-Don't store for long @ 100% charge, oxidation or something happens and ages the battery faster, ideally long term storage should be 1/3 - 1/2 charged (3.85v per cell for my batteries) so if convenient try to only full charge just before your trip (I charge mine the night before) Also if possible only charge to 90% or less (you need a special charger)
-I believe the deep discharge once a month is just a hang-over from the previous generation of Nimh rechargeable batteries, where it was needed. IMO it is more likely to cause harm for your eBike battery (see 80% rule above) In laptops and phones it may help to calibrate the battery remaining indicator though, which is why it is sometimes recommended.
-Don't draw more current that it's designed output or you will artificially age the cells or worse, ideally draw less (my battery is rated for 160A I draw 15, but they severely over-rate their batteries)
-The BMS turning off a flat battery should be seen as an emergency feature, best if your battery never gets that low.

There are many other opinions and threads all over ES and elsewhere, but these are what I concluded from all my reading and exp.
 
d8veh said:
MitchJi said:
Hi,

If it's so much nicer at 44V, why are you going run it long-term on 36V?

Good question. I tried with a worn out 5aH 6S pack first. It was sagging to about 42v most of the time, and performance was still adequate for me. In my main bike, I have a nice light 20aH 36v battery, which is useful for the extra range and won't sag much at 15 amps, so I'll see if it gives enough power. I might solder the shunt for a bit more torque. If it's not enough, I have about 15aH of new 12S hard-packs to try.

It sounds you are citing a general rule. We newbies would love to know if so.

Are you saying 44v will not cause problems on 36v ebikes?

I pray the answer is yes, & if so, why would anyone buy a 36v battery?
 
cycleops612 said:
Are you saying 44v will not cause problems on 36v ebikes?

I pray the answer is yes, & if so, why would anyone buy a 36v battery?
My experience with that 12s 44v lipo on the XD 36v controller it was slightly too much voltage and would cut out after a high load (cresting a big hill) for the motor though shouldn't cause any issues. So it really depends on controller that one had 50v capacitors but cut out above about 47v
 
cycleops612 said:
Are you saying 44v will not cause problems on 36v ebikes?

I pray the answer is yes, & if so, why would anyone buy a 36v battery?
Generally, all 36v controllers can work with 12S (44v). The only exceptions I know of is when those that are automatic 48v/36v dual voltage get confused as to which voltage they have.
 
cycleops612 said:
D8veh, your saggy batteries references show why i dont get why anyone buys li-ion 18650 battery paks???

lifepo4 may be a little heavier, but (~)at least twice the native discharge rate alone, makes them a no brainer to me.

Many other advantages too.
That's not true at all. The saggy battery I was referring to were old lipos. IMHO, your views are now out of date. Modern 18650 cells have very low internal resistance and can give massive currents. The weight isn't a little different. It's double for LiFePO4 compared with 18650s.
 
menvert said:
Deesjoint said:
Hi
I just purchased a xiongda 2speed motor for my first ebike build. it is a Rear motor 48V 300W disk brake+single freewheel (135mm) silvery, 25km/hfor 26'' rim. I was wondering what kind of battery pack to purchase for the build. 48V is a given but I would like to be able to ride without pedaling for at least 30 miles. I just asking for a best case situation. I've read post about the 12slipos packs and I'm kind of lost as to what to purchase. Also I want a thin/smallish pack. Thanks.

Hmm 30 miles range no pedalling is a lot, on a 12Ah 36v I get about 24 miles with a 350w conventional hub @ 25kmh, pedalling only a little bit (that 's flattening the batetry to get that range) Now ideally for long life you never want to go below 20% remaining.

I am guessing you want a 15-20Ah battery Lipo probably, I dont think you'll get that sort of range from a 18650 bottle pack @48v (Personally I'd have gone with 36v if you wanted range but only 25kmh)
It also depends how you wish to set it on your bike? rear integrated rack? triangle bag lipo? bottle pack?
Also what sort of bike is it? and what wieght are you and the bike, do you have many hills?

But you'll need someone who's tried the XD with a 48v to estimate range, as it will be more efficient than my example...

Seems to me the best way to couch such requests for advice is:

"having studied and considered my; mission critical route/terrain/gvm, I estimate I will need x minutes at y watts, p minutes at q watts, etc."

Which means the noob should borrow a bike & get the feel of what 350watts say, actually feels like as a level of power - what it can accomplish during conditions typical of the route.

Do the math & thats the watt hours u need. Then add maybe 20%.

Over catering is a weight drag, so seeking balance is worth the time.

a sub 30kg decent e-mtb sould sustain 25kph on the flat with 150watts. Each extra 5kph, another 100-150watts.

miles alone, is meaningless.
 
Deesjoint, which 48v, 135mm, 2 speed Xiongda hub only gets you 300 watts? Is this hobbled to meet some law? My 100+mm, 48 volt hub pulls 12-15 amp, and even given efficiency factor, probably gives me 450-500 watts (max).

As for your range, all good advice previously. But I believe that the 2 speed feature of the X hub helps. Another data point. Riding single, on my ~80# (with battery) tandem recumbent, with the 48 volt X hub laced to a 16" wheel, I get ~29-30 miles, with no pedaling, using a 15 a*h lith, and ~80+% discharge. I think my low max powered speed of ~15 m/h helps, as do my too hard Maxxis, 110 psi tires, and the lower profile of the recumbent seating......
 
bigoilbob said:
Deesjoint, which 48v, 135mm, 2 speed Xiongda hub only gets you 300 watts? Is this hobbled to meet some law? My 100+mm, 48 volt hub pulls 12-15 amp, and even given efficiency factor, probably gives me 450-500 watts (max).

As for your range, all good advice previously. But I believe that the 2 speed feature of the X hub helps. Another data point. Riding single, on my ~80# (with battery) tandem recumbent, with the 48 volt X hub laced to a 16" wheel, I get ~29-30 miles, with no pedaling, a 15 a*h lith, and ~80+% discharge. I think my low max powered speed of ~15 m/h helps, as do my too hard Maxxis, 110 psi tires, and the lower profile of the recumbent seating......
doesnt sound right.

their 48v controller is 15amp? = 720w, & u can over volt a bit i think.
 
d8veh said:
cycleops612 said:
D8veh, your saggy batteries references show why i dont get why anyone buys li-ion 18650 battery paks???

lifepo4 may be a little heavier, but (~)at least twice the native discharge rate alone, makes them a no brainer to me.

Many other advantages too.
That's not true at all. The saggy battery I was referring to were old lipos. IMHO, your views are now out of date. Modern 18650 cells have very low internal resistance and can give massive currents. The weight isn't a little different. It's double for LiFePO4 compared with 18650s./quote

Some handy numbers folks are; 50g for a 4.2v 18650 (12.6wh at 3000mah) cell and 250g for a 3.2v 10000mah (32wh) pouch cell. Only a few of the scarcer and dearer cells exceed 3000ma, most i think are lucky to make 2500, or even 1500 in many cases. I may be out of date, but the majority actually sold globally would be low quality. so at best, for cells alone as a guide, its certainly not half.

The fact remains, overkill in c rates aside, that the 18650 pk u started the trip with, is not the battery you have soon into the journey. It is a moveable feast. Lifepo4 is ~constant.

I am skeptical of the volume proportion of the fancy 18650s on the market that you represent as the norm.

Most native specs for pouch lifepo4s are a 3c rate, usually over conservatively in my view, reduced to 2c by pak makers. These are good numbers for ebikes, which seek a happy balance between range and c-rates, not 20 minutes of RC chopper time at max power, as desired from lipo. More than 3c is wasted on practical ebikes, and 2c is fine. Thats what you get from lifepo4, no ifs, no buts.

Looking down the track, we will all have spent thousands on batteries now upgraded we have lying around. To the extent a leave and forget battery is possible, lifepo4 wins hands down. Any neglect will trash your 18650 paks. lifepo4 is ~forever, 18650 is short lived at best, and hi risk even so.

Stuff happens, and individual cells fail. What then? Which one to replace for repair? In a 50ah 36v lifepo4 pouch battery, its repair is simply testing which of the 12 in series packs is the problem. Even generously assuming 3000ma 18650s, that pak would be 18 cells in series/parallel combinations, or 36 cells for 1500ma cells, a doubtful economic proposition for repair.

I still dont get how parallel groups of cells recieve proper charge management. The bms circuit cards dont seem to monitor each cell, as in lifepo4, which has to be good for the pak.

I really am puzzled at why it goes un mentioned, but given the bottom 20% of 18650 charge is un-usable, does that not mean that right there, is a 20% penalty in weight and cost to 18650s?

I am not saying i am right, just how it seems to me, and despite all the answers, no one seems to address these doubts of mine.

Of course each is inferior in some ways, but it still comes down to, Will it serve me long and faithfully with no fuss, or will it be a prima donna and let then me down sooner"

Weight is only relevant as a proportion of gvm.Americans and their bikes seem big. an extra kilo for a durable, mission critical component is not a deal breaker.
 
cycleops612 said:
I am skeptical of the volume proportion of the fancy 18650s on the market that you represent as the norm.

Do laptops use LiFePO4? Do electric vacuum cleaners or lawnmowers use LiFePO4? There's a reason that the answer is no. In fact I can't think of a single battery powered domestic device that uses LiFePO4.

I can show you 100 different OEM bikes that use 18650 cells in their batteries. I challenge you to show me 3 OEM bikes that use LiFePO4. I don't want to sound big-headed, but for your information, I work with various OEM brands to help them develop new ebikes, so I know what's going on in the industry (Europe).
 
d8veh said:
cycleops612 said:
I am skeptical of the volume proportion of the fancy 18650s on the market that you represent as the norm.

Do laptops use LiFePO4? Do electric vacuum cleaners or lawnmowers use LiFePO4? There's a reason that the answer is no. In fact I can't think of a single battery powered domestic device that uses LiFePO4.

I can show you 100 different OEM bikes that use 18650 cells in their batteries. I challenge you to show me 3 OEM bikes that use LiFePO4. I don't want to sound big-headed, but for your information, I work with various OEM brands to help them develop new ebikes, so I know what's going on in the industry (Europe).

Yes, 18650s serve ok for 250w EU bikes, but thats about the limit of bottle 18650 batteries.

Yes, I know my style doesnt win any friends. To some extent i provoke, on thin ice, to get answers. Sorry folks, but its the best way i can figure.

I say again. I am not convinced. You guys never address the issue holistically from the consumers viewpoint. Maybe on paper, by your chosen criteria 18650 is better, but u guys happily sell bottle batteries of 18650s to mostly occasional users. A 1c 12ah 18650 panasonic 36v bottle pak wont even power a 350w properly more than a few minutes. Put it aside for a few months, its quite possibly ruined. You guys dont replace failed batteries (warranty is a nonsense given shipping rules, more than its worth). all they want is an easy sale. Of course they, like you, sell the conventional wisdom. Educating punters means lost sales.
(an 18650 is 560gm, a lifepo4 pouch cell is about 250gm per 10ah, so do the math, its not huge - at best, 170gm vs 250gm, at premium 2500ms, its 200gm vs 250gm and most commonly at about 1500ma chinese cells, its heavier at 333 gms.). Each result, if dubious claimed voltages are believed, should be factored a bit due to the 1/3 highre voltages at full charge, but averaged out given rapid and continuous voltage drop of 18650s, this edge ought be at least halved.

e.g. Nobody even seems to admit the fundamental flaw that the last 20% of 18650 limn is a flat out lie. Its useless dead weight, yet its counted as capacity? Right there alone is a 20% fudging of weight, cost & capacity. I may be wrong (and am happy to be proved so by someone who addresses arguments as they should), but this has to be the fifth time i have said it, yet all simply recite the alleged sexy bits about 18650s (largely, as here, its "the conventional wisdom"), and ignore what seems a blatant and ~universal deception. It has been universally ignored by the fanboys, so i have to assume its correct.

This alone would make a 10ah lifepo4 equal a 12ah 18650 rig in capacity, and negate most if not all weight "disadvantages". Then you have; c rates, durability, longevity, fully usable til empty (a half empty 18650 is nothing like a full one, unlike the identical~ abilities of a half full lifepo4), fault diagnosis, fixability, simple construction.

18650s are great - for slow constant, piddling applications, but would you make a car battery out of torch batteries? Tessla use ~7000? get real. Do you really think that sensible.

They are fine for small jobs, not big batteries and for EV bursty demands. A single cell lifepo4 can be 100 ah or more vs an absolute max of about 3.2 ah in scarce (snapped up by apple etc.) premium 18650s. For argument sakes, the fanboys treat this as the norm, whereas sub 2 ah is?

It doesnt make sense intuitively does it? a big battery made up of scads of tiny ones? Good luck finding the inevitable bad ones among that rats nest of groups and subgroups of cells.

Similarly, all have avoided is my often put point: How on earth can 18650 cells be properly charge managed, if as certainly seems the case, only groups of 18650s are managed, not each cell as in lifepo4 (how do you manage 7000 cells in a tessla - forgetaboutit?)

I regularly hear lifepo4 is heavier and dearer, but, honest apples with apples comparisons please.

It is nothing like a given that industry knows best for consumers.

Laptops are not ebikes. Weight and ideal c rates are way different. Laptops dont have to accelerate out of trouble or climb hills hauling 100+ kilos..

Cars have softened us to expect big bills, but personally, i would prefer a battery that serves, neglected, for a decade, over a prima donna which serves a few years if no storage lapses of procedure occur. The learning curve for lifepo4 is simple. ~There isnt one. Those real costs to be factored in where i come from.
 
I think you need to have a look at the specifications of the latest 18650 cells. You don't seem to be very well informed. Have a read of this, and bear in mind that there's another year of progress since that was written:

https://www.electricbike.com/18650-cells-for-e-bike/
 
d8veh said:
I think you need to have a look at the specifications of the latest 18650 cells. You don't seem to be very well informed. Have a read of this, and bear in mind that there's another year of progress since that was written:

https://www.electricbike.com/18650-cells-for-e-bike/

thanks, really, but my views are little changed.

incremental mainstream capacity improvements, good, but merely catchup c-rate improvements, same complex everything, same crap longevity, same voltage drop....

it mainly narrows the gap for heroes bikes that would consider lipo.

for an hours commute averaging 250w (= an optimally wind efficient 25(15mph)-30kph, up hills too) & 500w on demand on a 30kg bike, no battery worries for life - yours and the bikes :) - nah - lifepo4 4 this twice bitten 18650 former customer.

in short, my druthers, after much thought, would probably be for say 36v (an easier fitting (a weak point for lifepo4), slimmer pak, of fewer, larger, in series cells), 15ah pak - 540wh, & easily 810w (1.5c) on demand & 1100 (2c) watts is well within spec too (most pouches, if not paks, are specified at 3c), and 3c 1600w technically (ask the pak maker to custoise the bms and charger) if some of the huge longevity is sacrificed (ping batteries use 5ah lifepo4 cells in parallel arrays And happily promises 3c dis/charge rates), ~5kg/8lb.

Its a bit over the top, but the extra 5 amps over a 10ah pak seems a pittance - from 200$ to 250$ or some such. I get the impression 15ah is the new mainstream, which yields economies. 15ah to 20ah seems more a pro rata increase. Hust an impression.

Obviously, 18650s work and do the job,

On balance tho, i would concede a little weight (even thats arguable) to have a more robust and worry free such vital component.
 
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