350W Jump Bafang front hub motor+wheel+tire+brake $45@BCH

[Skippo]

Anyone know if the jump motor will fit a 24" rim. How many spoke hole does the motor have?

 

[Chalo]

Anyone know if the jump motor will fit a 24" rim. How many spoke hole does the motor have?

It will fit in whatever rim you lace it into, but of course you'll also need to get the right length spokes (and spoke washers, because the hub is drilled too big for the correct spike gauge). The hub has 36 holes, like most hub motors.

 

[bancars]

* Nut has *seven* sides (each side is 8mm long and is bowed in by 1mm), so it can't be tightened with a crescent wrench or a regular hex socket, but vice grips should work.

Update:
The security nut screws onto the "M12 1.25 extra fine thread" bolt on the sizer at Ace Hardware. The replacement ordinary hex nut is #3485-G (in box 272 in the Ace Hardware bolts aisle) and costs $1.69.

 

[DrkAngel]

Picked up a pair with "Warped Rim" for $25 each, added 2 tires @ $7.50 each, w/shipping, about $100 to upstate NY.
No nuts or mounting hardware to confuse me, but included a disc caliper.
Just need truing!
Picked up the nuts at local hardware and ordered 2 "Bafang" to "standard" controller adapter cable.
6 pin connector was included.

Will likely need the troubleshooting chart:


Otherwise. as a last resort, reputably, they work satisfactorily with sensorless controllers.

 

[CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING]

I've gotta toss mine together, I've had all the parts and materials sitting around but I've just lacked the drive to yeet them together into a cheap trash eBike.

 

[Chalo]

Picked up a pair with "Warped Rim" for $25 each,

When I saw those listed, I reckoned that meant they were down to the dregs and vestiges, so I ordered four more wheels. They look like there's some chance they're fixable-- though mostly I've been rebuilding them with different rims for one reason or another.

It's been a pretty fun adventure and learning experience having these hub motors available so cheaply.

 

[DrkAngel]

Got 2 Schwalbe on wheels (near new, both still have some center molding ridge) and 2 Kenda extra tires, both wheels are only slightly out of true.

Made sure M12 1.25mm nuts fit, then found best deal on flanged nuts.
(10) M12-1.25 MM Metric Grade 10.9 Serrated JIS Hex Flange Lock Nuts Fine Thread

Receiving 2nd 9pin to standard adapter cable today.
To eliminate any possibility of any wire mismatch, I intend on continuity matching from inside motor to outputs of adapter cables. (5V and ground, most essentially).

Sourced 36-48V 18A sensorless controllers (2x <$20 each shipped), if "proper" pinout and phase swapping fails to produce proper rotation. (36V intended, but 48V for potential "fun" or as pedal assist with higher speeds)

P.S. - extra $7.50 tires did come with tubes

Chalo! - 4 cables $32, from US

 

[amberwolf]

If it's useful, Stancecoke linked this Erider-torque-sensor-compatible controller/display:
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005002711701202.html

BRUSHLESS CONTROLLER SINEWAVE 12Mosfet MAX CURRENT 25A RATED CURRENT 12A FOR MOTOR 500W AND TORQUE SENSOR T9 T13 T15 T17

price is for one display and controller .. the controller is sinewave model. 12mosfet. current 25A.


this model is produced to match with our torque sensor t9. t13 . ORDER THE TORQUE SENSOR HERE,
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33030138390.html?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33027685086.html?


wiring

this is for motor 500w.
LIKE THIS
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000236301333.html?

one piece of speed testing magnetic disc
and 1:5.0 reduction ratio.
if your motor is different please set the display right

the crank works for it
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002488806914.html?

and this controller has frontlight wire
and brake light wire
display: wire from the controller:
red white-48v power positive
blue white- power lock
black white-48v power negative
green white-communication TX
YELLOW WHITE-communication RX

torque sensor wire
red- -12v
green--torque sensor signal TA
BLAcK- torque sensor power negative
yellow-pedal assistance direction EBS
WHITE-torque sensor signal ADI

grey +black is brake wire , grey is brake signal, black is brake power negative,
red +black --frontlight wire
brown +black is brake light wire,

motor hallsensor wire
red --power positive
black -power negative
yellow --motor hall SC
GREEN-MOTOR HALL SB
BLUE--MOTOR HALL SA
WHITE -SPEED TESTING WIRE SS1

 

[Ghz24]

I bought a few of these from battery clearing house.
I thought I had this figured out. Got 9 pin extension wire, a 350 watt motor controller, a 36 volt reclaimed "lime" scooter battery and a throttle but, testing gives nothing at the wheel
I don't get what it is I'm missing.
Do I need a display to run the motor somehow?

 

[amberwolf]

I bought a few of these from battery clearing house.
I thought I had this figured out. Got 9 pin extension wire, a 350 watt motor controller, a 36 volt reclaimed "lime" scooter battery and a throttle but, testing gives nothing at the wheel
I don't get what it is I'm missing.
Do I need a display to run the motor somehow?

The motor itself doesn't require a display (it can't talk to one).

Does the controller require a display? If so, you need that to get the controller to operate as designed. Sometimes you can bypass the display to turn on the controller, but it will then only operate in it's default settings which you can't change without the display.

Which specific controller is it? Link to the sale page will give us the most information.

Exactly how is the system wired up? A drawing showing every wire in the connections, whether connected to something else or not, will help us help you best. Label each wire with whatever you know about it. If you don't know what it's for, that's ok, we will try to figure it out (but it shouldnt' be connected to anything if you don't know, as things can be damaged that way).


Also, while I don't know if this applies to the Lime brand ones, note that some of the rental scooter batteries won't output power unless they are "activated" by wirelessly connecting to the rental app on your phone, etc., and you have rented that scooter. If yours is one of these, you'd have to bypass that part of the BMS / internal control elecronics in the battery. There's a recent thread showing this being done for a Bird scooter
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=115588&p=1712358&hilit=scooter#p1712432

 

[Ghz24]

Thanks for your reply.
The controller a prolongic 350 watt was too smart for me I expected it to function or malfunction and then I could swap phase and hall sensor wires around to find the right combination.
Turns out it expects to learn the right combination by being started up initially with the learning wires connected.
I figured that out while composing my first reply (that was lost in the ether) to you.
I thought the learning wires just reversed the direction of rotation, likely an impression I got from a kit that was color coded correctly between components so that's all the kit said theirs did.
Thanks again for your offer to trouble shoot it.
It lives. Now to test the others.