A123 AMP20M1HD-A Battery pack kit

Uploaded video on powering 6 1kW bulds from 6S pack that i previously build:
[youtube]BYy5YqT3oXo[/youtube]

Tested three times, 2 bulbs, 4 bulbs and 6 bulbs. ~87amps, ~150amp and ~211amps
@ 200+ amps 4awg wires and connector started to get very hot, batteries got worm.

Need to fit some sort of switch...
 
Hey agniusm! I'm in for 2 x 6S for sure. Can you post approximate shipping weights so we can prepare to get funds ready for Paypal. I know they are somewhere but my search doesn't find them. Thanks
otherDoc
 
So for 2x6S with packing figure 1Kg shipped? They use 50g-500g at around 23 bucks. I'll send a bit more just incase you use lead packing wrappers :)
otherDoc

Ya know you could be on to something, especially if the Chinese do "clone" the A123 cells. Lots of business for you, I hope. Good luck!
 
docnjoj said:
So for 2x6S with packing figure 1Kg shipped? They use 50g-500g at around 23 bucks. I'll send a bit more just incase you use lead packing wrappers :)
otherDoc

Ya know you could be on to something, especially if the Chinese do "clone" the A123 cells. Lots of business for you, I hope. Good luck!
Click to expand...

50-500g will be enough. Bouth sets weigh around 400g including packaging.
 
PM Sent. Gmail sent. :D
2 x 16s

EDIT: Paid in Full on Tuesday June 26th. Thanks. :)


==================

Great video manual, but... everyone... ;)

Use insulated tools and "mask" cover the bars before assembly, then you shouldn't get the sparks as shown on video. :lol: :mrgreen:
 
Ok, here is what i have at the moment:
docnjoj 2 x 6S
ohzee 1 x 24S
deVries 2 x 16S
Kristoffer 2 x12S
Germany 1 x 4S

999zip999 said:
Agniusm I will take 2-12s boards 92629 Thanks
Click to expand...
I have one left as Kristoffer have reserved yesterday, sorry mate.

This is whats available:
6 x 6S
1 x 4S
1 x 12S
 
From post office. You can buy insurance for 7USD, there is a catch thou. Post office will declare the amount and you will be charged import tax on goods and shipping, applies to countries outside EU. Basically it is up to you, with insurance i guaranty that if goods get lost i will bounce back payment through PayPal, if not, shame on you :), not my fault. I will keep receipts to prove that goods were sent.
Thanks
 
It might pay to take a lesson from the Chinese and lable the packages "Toy Bicycle parts".
otherDoc
 
So how fast do you think you will be able to make these going forward and how much work is it approximately ?
Just curious really don't have any grand plans.
 
To toninen:

Took long time to get blocks done and people were backing off so i done it first come first serve basis. Sorry about that. I could not risk making lots of kits and ending up not selling them. if there is interest, there will be more to come and should be a lot quicker to manufacture.
 
ohzee said:
So how fast do you think you will be able to make these going forward and how much work is it approximately ?
Just curious really don't have any grand plans.
Click to expand...

This was lots of work on PC and driving to manufacturers with many let downs due block production. At the end i found one who would make these blocks out of aluminium, but paid top price as it is a lot of manual work cleaning up each block and threads (you'll see when you receive your kit what i mean). I spend some money on sheets of brass. Aluminium in the end is better as it is more conductive and a lot lighter. So to round it up, it depends on demand, otherwise there is no point.
 
Hey agniusm
I'll tell you it seems that you really are in a position to "corner the market" with these kits. If I were a supplier of A123 cells I would be trying to develop a relationship to start making large numbers of these kits, for both the Velo and Motorcycle markets as well as the ebike. Maybe I'm wrong but your kit makes using the way A123 developed these cells easily assembled and without a huge factory with sonic welders, just people assembling packs. Just my 2 ohms worth. Good luck to you! You deserve it for the effort and quality.
otherDoc
 
agniusm said:
...I have developed few other toys as an option to help build the pack but this is just a glimpse and will reveal when i will have some viable info from mfr. I want to work on a tripple hole punch so it would be easy to do large amounts of cells in fraction of time, maybe sample for my self at first :)
Click to expand...

Let us know something more about these toys... ;)

Thanks. :)
 
Was thinking on offering heatsinks similar to what A123 is using for modules and aluminium end plates to complete the pack. This is if kits will sell. Will put some more info later when power in da house will be switched on, electric works on the line.
All kits were posted, tracking sent. Hope all is good and everyone will be happy with their hobby part smaples :)
 
Yes I do look forward to my "hobby part sample" arriving. Good choice of title for the Post Office.
otherDoc
 
just checking if everyone got their tracking by email? Packages leaving tomorrow my town. It took me an hour to post them, stone age up here in post office..

I have mentioned before what tools to use, just repeating myself.
2mm alen key, 2.5mm alen key, star screwdriver, small and large flat screwdriver. As you start building your pack, use insulating tape to mask out blocks to avoid shorts, believe me it happens:). I would suggest using thread lock on bolts, light to medium strength, tiny drop for peace of mind. It is handy to mount your BMS on front plate of the kit if it fits:

IMAG0076.jpg


Fit 10mm spacers on to cell board first, easier this way. 7 of the 8 way connector pins are used (Not applicable to 4S kit). Check, then double check and then triple check your balance wires, than check again with voltmeter :D
If someone gonna be pulling lots of amps, my advice is to buff 10mm blocks to fit terminals directly on to the block.

To prepare your cells, insert one with full tabs, bend it and mark the length through second cell opening. This way you will get proper tab length. Dont use large scissors as you will get short's when trimming tabs or be extra careful. Holes should be drilled 5mm from the side edge of the tab for side holes and 22.5mm from ether side of the tab for center hole. For horizontal spacing mark when in the slot, measure using caliper. I drilled them 3.5mm drill bit. Roughness does not play big role in performance, rather in assembling the pack. Aluminum tab drills good and clean and fot nickel plated tabs i would say that high RPM tool would work better, like dremel or similar.

If there is doubt, always ask, will be glad to help.

Thanks
 
I got mine! Thanks agniusm.
otherDoc
 
Yes, I received your post office receipt image, thanks. :D

Thank you for being so helpful & prompt in your services too. Your video manual "sold" me to buy immediately & play with sparks! :lol:

On your amp-test video I think it would be interesting in future test videos if you have some temperature probes in "strategic locations" just to learn of any "stress points" where temperatures increase. (Check for light-reflections too, since the LCD screen could not be read in some tests.)

I think another valuable test would be to test for 50A, 40A, & 30A continuous (5-10 minutes) to see if there is any difference with heat build-up issues.

Do you think it would be a good idea to use high-temp petroleum jelly or other anti-oxi-gel to coat the contact areas immediately after prep-work by buffing or using sandpaper or steel-wool or other cleaning recommendations?

Thanks. :)
 
deVries said:
Yes, I received your post office receipt image, thanks. :D

Thank you for being so helpful & prompt in your services too. Your video manual "sold" me to buy immediately & play with sparks! :lol:

On your amp-test video I think it would be interesting in future test videos if you have some temperature probes in "strategic locations" just to learn of any "stress points" where temperatures increase. (Check for light-reflections too, since the LCD screen could not be read in some tests.)

I think another valuable test would be to test for 50A, 40A, & 30A continuous (5-10 minutes) to see if there is any difference with heat build-up issues.

Do you think it would be a good idea to use high-temp petroleum jelly or other anti-oxi-gel to coat the contact areas immediately after prep-work by buffing or using sandpaper or steel-wool or other cleaning recommendations?

Thanks. :)
Click to expand...

Thanks. I have done videos my self, first time and in a hurry to post here so errors came along as one would expect :). Next ones will be more lit up and meter readings clearly visible. Amp draw will be repeated with probe on terminals. I had no heavy duty breaker to operate the rig, there fore because of bad connection on the bus it got hot. Mate promised to get me that breaker today, but nothing. Will ring him up tomorrow. I will do ~50 and ~100a continuous test and that should cover most of e-bike builds. Just need to get some balancing wires to charge test pack with iCharger (ordered few from hobbyking)
I would only buff the end terminals as others are for clamping only. I cant advise you on solution regarding corrosion as it would take some time to test if it corrodes or not.
 
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