Amazon 1KW e-bike kit controllers seem pretty krap these days. '48Z1000W LY-202409-LCD-E'

[marka-ee]

I recently got my 26 inch 1000 watt direct drive hub from Amazon Europe. Of course it ships with things I don't care about such as brake levers etc. but this post is about the controller. And they don't seem to sell 36-48 volt kits anymore. This was strictly listed at 48 volts.
The model number of the controller is '48Z1000W LY-202409-LCD-E' ,the manufacturer is Changzou Leiya moto co, Ltrl.
It has 15 power MOSFETs of the 95N68A type. These are 68 volt 95 amp parts. For a 48 volt controller with a fully charged battery, that seems to get awful close to the limits there, doesn't it? The PC board doesn't have too much information on it, but on the silkscreen side, the capacitors are indicated as 50 volt capacitors. That's also cutting it really close. The actual capacitors didn't have voltage ratings, so I'm not sure if that's what they really put in there.
The LCD seems to have some ability to change some programming parameters, but I don't know if there's any instructions out there for this. I'd love to know if it has regen or other settings that might be interesting. Right now I just put in a KT controller that I'll be using for the interim period because the battery I want to use on this bike is only 36 volts.
I was surprised that the wheel itself even came with a tire on it.

So, anyhow, my options were limited and for under $250 shipped, that's what I'm working with right now.
If anybody has any links for programming settings, I would be very grateful. Thank you.

 

[amberwolf]

The model number of the controller is '48Z1000W LY-202409-LCD-E' ,the manufacturer is Changzou Leiya moto co, Ltrl.
It has 15 power MOSFETs of the 95N68A type. These are 68 volt 95 amp parts. For a 48 volt controller with a fully charged battery, that seems to get awful close to the limits there, doesn't it?

That's fairly typical. Some of the 48v controllers (that don't specify only using 13s with them, so they get used with 14s 52v batts that fill up to 58v) we've seen here use 55-volt (or less) FETs, and 63v caps. Sometimes even just 50v caps.

The PC board doesn't have too much information on it, but on the silkscreen side, the capacitors are indicated as 50 volt capacitors. That's also cutting it really close. The actual capacitors didn't have voltage ratings, so I'm not sure if that's what they really put in there.

If they don't even mark the voltage on the caps, I wouldn't rely on any other markings they do have, as that's a very important spec. You might want to replace the caps with something you consider reliable (even if they're old ones out of a previous controller). What "brand" are they?

If the 50v is marked on the board itself, then I'd guess it's really a 36v design, and they just changed whatever parts tehy had to to keep it from blowing up instantly on power connection to work at 48v/13s (which is often really used with 52v/14s in practice)

The LCD seems to have some ability to change some programming parameters, but I don't know if there's any instructions out there for this. I'd love to know if it has regen or other settings that might be interesting.

What markings does the LCD have, and/or what does it look like? Might help us help you find more info about that.

I couldn't find anything in a search on the controller numbers provided above. The "202409" sounds more like a manufacturing date / batch code than a model number. the "48Z1000W" might be a model number but sounds more like a functional description.

I was surprised that the wheel itself even came with a tire on it.

FWIW, the crappiest kits seem more likely to come with a tire than the better ones, based on the various posts here. They're probably not great tires, but if they're like most of the really cheap ones I've had, they are soft rubber with good grip (probably terrible balance and carcass though).

 

[marka-ee]

I think I found a manual for the LCD.

https://device.report/m/369b7b197d1e0d342058d2918312a23b0ac3f27996f9c87b0ec61eff381ca6e1_optim.pdf

What's interesting is there seems to be a setting, P03, for setting the voltage. I'm not sure if this will make it work for 36 volts or not. I haven't tried it yet.It might be just for calibrating the voltage bar graph on the display itself.
disappointingly it doesn't seem to have regen so I'm gonna stick with my KT controller for now.

Yeah, the tire that it came with is surely low quality, but I'm just surprised that it came with one at all because it wasn't in the ad. I have to put something on there with excellent puncture protection, probably a Schwabe Marathon Plus, because changing the back tire of a VeloMobile is not exactly an easy procedure.

 

[amberwolf]

Since the velo is already relatively "heavy", you can also go with multilayer protection schemes. See my posts about flat / puncture management, tires, tubes, etc, in the various flat tire threads for a few solutions that work on my cargo bikes/trikes.