AmpBike Help

[PitchPenny]

My AmpedBike works fine but my Throttle Lights do not come on along with the red on and off switch located on the front of the throttle...the only part of the Throttle that is fuctioning is the actual throttle...I beleave that I had the throttle cable too tight or I bumb it or both...
anyone know how to test the Throttle I have a simple meter

 

[wesnewell]

Check the connector and make sure it's plugged in good.

 

[PitchPenny]

Hello I have an Amped Bike and instead of buying the batteries from Amped
I got them on line it was like $40? cheaper
Well i will never do this again the Battery connects were solidered and i had to break the connection (i did not own a soldering gun) Now I have a gun and I want to Solder the connections on right (not just cliped on) I would think I need to disconnect the Batteries from the rest of my ebike (controller, etc) but since all 3 batteries are connected
Will There Be a Problem still? I honestly can see no other way to go about this!

 

[NeilP]

No, no problem at all..
Un solder the old wires, ONE at a time and reconnect to the same colour terminal on the new batteries. No issues at all

 

[dogman dan]

IMO, you should have a plug that allows you to disconnect the battery from the controller, and you should disconnect it anytime you park the bike for more than a few hours.

I'm not clear what you want to solder, but I have had problems with weak connections to the copper tabs on sla batteries on an ebike. I could see soldering the blade connectors to the tabs for sure. But retain a better plug on the othe end of the wiring harness, to unplug from your controller at night.

Unplugged or not won't matter when you do the soldering though. The unplugging is to eliminate the 3 watts or so your controller will use all night, unless unplugged or switched off.

 

[NeilP]

Yes, for sure you must have someway to unplug from controller, unless like many of these biles that run low current and have built in keyswitch, the key is also a main battery isolator.

I was imagining these packs inside a housing of some sorts, all screwed together, with plug ftom controller fitting to socket. I have just been dealing with 4 different SLA e bikes and they were all like that, so I was imagining this was similar

 

[wesnewell]

You're going to have to replace the batteries again sometime. I'd put the proper connectors on the cables to make it easier next time you have to replace one or more of them. I've had to replace sla batteries in several scooters and commercial ebikes, and I've always put connectors on without a problem. If you're worried about them coming loose, put some shrink tubing over the connector and shrink it.

 

[NeilP]

Best solution yes, BUT..if the OP had to go out and buy a soldering iron, I guess he ( she? ) is going to have to go out and buy crimpers and crimps etc too, which may end up as a bit of expense too far?

The down side of crimp on connectors is that unless you have bought a really good expensive set of crimpers, then the crimps they make are not that great, and poor crimps often result in bad connections and more hassle...Unless of course you crimp, solder and then heat shrink over the crimp area and cable...(having remembered to put the heat shrink over the cable before crimping and soldering)

 

[PitchPenny]

Thanks so much for your replies...
I did not know about the 3 watt drain on my batteries over nite
there is a quick release of the harness from the Batteries I could undo
But I turn off my bike at the throttle switch when ever I am not using it
(it is a little red button on the front of the thumb throttle)
not sure if this cuts the juice off from the Battery to the Controller though...
I do have a key but that is something I never use it is just always on
I could make the key stick out the side of my basket for easy access to turn on and off
Actually this seems like a fuss to deal with >is the drain that big a deal?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Now onto the soldering~ First off I suck @ soldering always have and always will
Yes I read many sites last night on how to solder well, honestly it is just not for me
SO my question now is; >"How can I get tight connections without soldering?"<
And; >"How important are tight connections for the overall performance of an EV Bike?"

 

[NeilP]

Thanks so much for your replies...
I did not know about the 3 watt drain on my batteries over nite
there is a quick release of the harness from the Batteries I could undo
But I turn off my bike at the throttle switch when ever I am not using it
(it is a little red button on the front of the thumb throttle)

That throttle switch will be like an ignition switch, battery is still connected to controller, and still draining power.

I do have a key but that is something I never use it is just always on
I could make the key stick out the side of my basket for easy access to turn on and off
Actually this seems like a fuss to deal with >is the drain that big a deal?

Does not do the batteries any good constantly having a small drain, especially if you leave them for a few days?week and really flatten them. Unless of course you are leaving it plugged in to the charger overnight anyway.

I would check the wiring and I guess you will find the key will disconnect controller from battery

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

SO my question now is; >"How can I get tight connections without soldering?"<

Tight crimp connections

And; >"How important are tight connections for the overall performance of an EV Bike?"

|Loose connections give more resistance, heat, and loss of voltage, so loss of performance and power. So very important

 

[PitchPenny]

So what I am going to do it Use my KEY to OFF my System when not in Use for longer than a few hours...
AND as for the "Tight Crimp Connectors" What are they?
and how will that hold the Female connectors to the Male F2's that come out of my
SLA's?

 

[NeilP]

So what I am going to do it Use my KEY to OFF my System when not in Use for longer than a few hours...

Ideally yes..at least over night..that is what it was fitted for

AND as for the "Tight Crimp Connectors" What are they?

Crimp on connectors that you crimp tightly to the wire...like these:

Various styles of crimping tools

From cheap ones like this

to the better sort like this

bought from Amazon etc
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-35574-Ratchet-Action-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B0001K9TGA

and how will that hold the Female connectors to the Male F2's that come out of my
SLA's?

They are the female connectors as you can see from the pictures....But even once you have crimped them on to the wires, I would still solder the wire in to the connector as well