markobetti
10 kW
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2009
- Messages
- 620
splint. , i found some dc converters , better check your pm , i dont know if you need this kind but link is in your mail
Another RG250 with Colossus Motor
- Thread starter SplinterOz
- Start date
SplinterOz
1 kW
Arlo1/Jones
We tried a laptop supply and did not work for us. I have only a 80volt pack or so and down to 76 (or lower) under load. The supply did put out the voltage but couldn't sustain the current required. Most of the AC adapters are arrange to work from 100v up to 250v AC and from what I understand they are basically a bridge rectifier then a switched mode DC/DC converter.
The other thing to to watch out for is to ensure they are isolated, that they do not share -ve between the two voltages.
We tried a laptop supply and did not work for us. I have only a 80volt pack or so and down to 76 (or lower) under load. The supply did put out the voltage but couldn't sustain the current required. Most of the AC adapters are arrange to work from 100v up to 250v AC and from what I understand they are basically a bridge rectifier then a switched mode DC/DC converter.
The other thing to to watch out for is to ensure they are isolated, that they do not share -ve between the two voltages.
SplinterOz
1 kW
Arlo1 said:
Nope, just trying to run a single 55w halogen from it, so about 5 amps or so. From memory it was a 90 watt supply.
SplinterOz
1 kW
Updates... load tests...
Well I have good news and bad news.
I did setup for a frankenride yesterday and I do have video. Laying out the stuff on the bike was easier than I thought, although this is very much a throw together.
I was not able however to get the bike to go very well at all. I think it is due to two things... as you can hear in the video I think the hall sensor signal is too noisy for the Timing Adjuster setup as it currently is. I did try with it not attached and it did work slightly better.
However the big issue was the controller cutting out... I actually think that is due to Low Voltage from the battery. After one attempt the output voltage from my 24S pack was around 16 volts. I did recharge the pack and it came ok. However I think I have a bad cell or two or the BMS just can't handle the load. After we stopped trying to video the runs I did get a slightly better run before the cutout... this motor does PULL... now I just need to be able to apply the current it wants.
Next plans - update the TA to have more filtering (toolman2 did this with his), program the controller to reduce current draw and check all the cells in the batteries.
Video is uploading...
[youtube]ylxrggZavVc[/youtube]
Another small thing... I think I have to get a torque based controller or add the Fechters throttle mod to this one, just to make it controllable.
Well I have good news and bad news.
I did setup for a frankenride yesterday and I do have video. Laying out the stuff on the bike was easier than I thought, although this is very much a throw together.
I was not able however to get the bike to go very well at all. I think it is due to two things... as you can hear in the video I think the hall sensor signal is too noisy for the Timing Adjuster setup as it currently is. I did try with it not attached and it did work slightly better.
However the big issue was the controller cutting out... I actually think that is due to Low Voltage from the battery. After one attempt the output voltage from my 24S pack was around 16 volts. I did recharge the pack and it came ok. However I think I have a bad cell or two or the BMS just can't handle the load. After we stopped trying to video the runs I did get a slightly better run before the cutout... this motor does PULL... now I just need to be able to apply the current it wants.
Next plans - update the TA to have more filtering (toolman2 did this with his), program the controller to reduce current draw and check all the cells in the batteries.
Video is uploading...
[youtube]ylxrggZavVc[/youtube]
Another small thing... I think I have to get a torque based controller or add the Fechters throttle mod to this one, just to make it controllable.
The voltage sag of your batteries could very well be saving your controler at this point!!!
The resistance of this motor is so low is like the FETs are trying to hook the batteries to a DEAD short.
Im very excited for this and it pulls with a little 24 fet???? Hummmm.
The resistance of this motor is so low is like the FETs are trying to hook the batteries to a DEAD short.
Im very excited for this and it pulls with a little 24 fet???? Hummmm.
markobetti
10 kW
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2009
- Messages
- 620
uf... dont pull current form battery to controller through bms ,maybe you could bypass bms .. and use it only for balancing ..
liveforphysics
100 TW
jonescg said:
Linear regs aren't very efficient. Switching DC/DC's are often made to be around 95%.
SplinterOz
1 kW
Yep I am going to mod the battery pack this week to do exactly thatmarkobetti said:
And I will test again with the controller amps limited a little more.
SplinterOz
1 kW
Arlo1 said:
More work this week, hopefully more photo's videos before the end of the week.
I have lined up a loaner Kelly, and loaner battery if required.
markobetti
10 kW
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2009
- Messages
- 620
SplinterOz said:
you have few mods in kelly ; check witch one suits it best . Also , the gearing should me at least 1:4 on the bike the kv is same as agni motor kv and agni is geared 1:4 , 1: 6 it dependes . Also it would me easier for the motor testing to get him rolling more easy on low rpms .
SplinterOz
1 kW
markobetti said:
Gearing is currently 1:4.15 which I think is ok. I might move to 1:5 which should still give me an acceptable top speed, any thing higher than that means not being able to reach 100km/h.
I know I have to get the high speed mode for the Kelly. Once tested with the loaner I will confirm which way I go.
markobetti
10 kW
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2009
- Messages
- 620
Oh , then you should me okay .. sorry Splint i missed where you wrote about gearing
sorry Splint i missed where you wrote about gearingHey Splinter I just got my 24 fet running and I am getting controler resets.SplinterOz said:
So maybe we have some simular problems.
I think I should have mine sorted out soon.
I would Hate to see kelly be the answer for you and I am realy hoping for the 24 fet to work out!
SplinterOz
1 kW
Arlo it would be good to have extra input. One thing I did notice that if I took the TA out of the hall circuit then it worked better (not good just better). I have the prototype with no filter capacitors or multisample code both in the new version. The new one is in the mail and should help.
I also looked at the BMS board and I am right the output goes through it and honestly I don't think it could deliver more than 100amps.
Headway Battery Pack construction by Splinter, on Flickr
So first... add more filters and/or wait for new TA
2nd.. get some accurate peak amp draw from the battery and set the controller limits
3rd.. try to implement Fechters Throttle mod to "make" the 24 fet controller a torque controller.
4th.. test with a loaner Kelly controller
I also looked at the BMS board and I am right the output goes through it and honestly I don't think it could deliver more than 100amps.
Headway Battery Pack construction by Splinter, on Flickr
So first... add more filters and/or wait for new TA
2nd.. get some accurate peak amp draw from the battery and set the controller limits
3rd.. try to implement Fechters Throttle mod to "make" the 24 fet controller a torque controller.
4th.. test with a loaner Kelly controller
gwhy!
100 kW
It may be worth checking out the thread that have solved the cutting out problems with the infiron controllers it may be related with your cutting out problems.
AussieJester
1 TW
gwhy! said:
Having experienced this over the weekend and yesterday myself, i would also like to ask if anyone has had cutting out then when turning controller back on, experienced a sever lack of power to what was present prior cutting out?
KiM
SplinterOz
1 kW
gwhy! said:
You wouldn't have a link or thread id? Searching is returning a LOT of unrelated results.
SplinterOz
1 kW
Ok so not a good weekend so far.
Toolman2 and I worked on setting up the controller to a "safer" config. He removed some shunts to reduce the maximum current pull of the controller and we tested under load on the large turnigy motor. It worked great and pulled over 5kw from the battery pack. This was with way more load then me on the bike and on the smaller motor. We confirmed that at 76v (odd) we were pulling under 80volts.
We were getting ready for another test with all the meters reset to get the min/max etc, while unplugging however we shorted the battery leads (across the controller not the battery) and discharged the capacitors. Since then the controller will not run, with power it produces the 5v for the throttle and halls but no go. Nothing obviously fried.
Toolman2 is looking at it today... if we have no luck it will be bundled up for repair.
Things we learnt, the little turnigy has awesome torque. The 24Fet controller I have can push the turnigy to it's max with a little to spare. This means it will not be able to push the Colossus to the power I want. Also my controller is VERY sensitive to little throttle input, really sensitive. I believe without extra devices (Fechter's throttle control say) the bike would be almost un-ride-able with this controller and motor.
Also my problem two weeks ago was most likely the BMS in the pack cutting power to protect the cells, as I would have been pulling approx 150amps from a 30Ah pack.
So it is Controller time... Now I want this to be a daily ride and it has to meet the Australian Design Regs. So I need a sealable controller with removable cables (or Orange cables attached) that can pull 150amps continuous from the battery pack peaking to 300amps.
What are people using?
Toolman2 and I worked on setting up the controller to a "safer" config. He removed some shunts to reduce the maximum current pull of the controller and we tested under load on the large turnigy motor. It worked great and pulled over 5kw from the battery pack. This was with way more load then me on the bike and on the smaller motor. We confirmed that at 76v (odd) we were pulling under 80volts.
We were getting ready for another test with all the meters reset to get the min/max etc, while unplugging however we shorted the battery leads (across the controller not the battery) and discharged the capacitors.
Since then the controller will not run, with power it produces the 5v for the throttle and halls but no go. Nothing obviously fried. Toolman2 is looking at it today... if we have no luck it will be bundled up for repair.
Things we learnt, the little turnigy has awesome torque. The 24Fet controller I have can push the turnigy to it's max with a little to spare. This means it will not be able to push the Colossus to the power I want. Also my controller is VERY sensitive to little throttle input, really sensitive. I believe without extra devices (Fechter's throttle control say) the bike would be almost un-ride-able with this controller and motor.
Also my problem two weeks ago was most likely the BMS in the pack cutting power to protect the cells, as I would have been pulling approx 150amps from a 30Ah pack.
So it is Controller time... Now I want this to be a daily ride and it has to meet the Australian Design Regs. So I need a sealable controller with removable cables (or Orange cables attached) that can pull 150amps continuous from the battery pack peaking to 300amps.
What are people using?
This is about what the max is from a 24 fet that has been modded and had the traces built up ect.SplinterOz said:
I run my 24 fet to 180-200 continious but its only powering my x5 so the inductance and resistance are large in the motor making it easy on the controler!
I am not sure but if I was you I would try a 36 fet. Make sure you build up the traces and turn the phase and battery currents down for testing.
Or wait for me to get my 9 phase rewind done. Everthing is on order I have 900 feet of 14 awg wire and 2 more 24 fet bords coming.
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