Are two similarly powered controllers basically equal?

[speedyebikenoob]

My old 55 amp peak shunt modded 12 fet controller popped a couple weeks ago and I finally got a new 24 fet controller to replace it that's rated for 80 amps peak. I plan to tune the controller down via my cycle analyst so it doesn't burn out my motor. If I limit it to 55 amps, should this controller give me the same power, acceleration and hill climbing ability as my old one? (other than the top speed which will probably go up because of a higher continuous rating) Or are there more factors involved?

 

[John in CR]

Different controllers can behave very differently, with the biggest difference being in the time it takes for current to ramp up. This is often even more true with higher power controllers if they aren't configurable by the end user, because it can become very jerky on the takeoff if set to ramp up the current as fast as possible, so the factory will tune it to a soft start.

The only way to know is to give it a try. If it feels good on launches, then using the CA to limit the maximum battery current will work just fine. If it jerks too much on the launch you can soften that up with the CA's throttle tuning function.

Since you've already modded a shunt, then that's an option at your disposal too. The 24fet controllers I've opened up have all had 3 shunt wires. If you're getting a real 80A out of the new controller, then cutting or removing 1 of 3 shunt wires would give it a new limit of 53A. If it hits a bit harder than you want on the launch then that might be a good route to go.

 

[speedyebikenoob]

Different controllers can behave very differently, with the biggest difference being in the time it takes for current to ramp up. This is often even more true with higher power controllers if they aren't configurable by the end user, because it can become very jerky on the takeoff if set to ramp up the current as fast as possible, so the factory will tune it to a soft start.

The only way to know is to give it a try. If it feels good on launches, then using the CA to limit the maximum battery current will work just fine. If it jerks too much on the launch you can soften that up with the CA's throttle tuning function.

Since you've already modded a shunt, then that's an option at your disposal too. The 24fet controllers I've opened up have all had 3 shunt wires. If you're getting a real 80A out of the new controller, then cutting or removing 1 of 3 shunt wires would give it a new limit of 53A. If it hits a bit harder than you want on the launch then that might be a good route to go.

Gotcha, I'm going from a 12 fet yu yang king to a 24 fet yu yang king, so I'm thinking since it's the same brand they must have similar ramp up characteristics. I'm happier if it has a bit more punch honestly; the throttle wasn't twitchy with the last controller since I was using torque mode on the cycle analyst, so that shouldn't be an issue.

 

[John in CR]

Different controllers can behave very differently, with the biggest difference being in the time it takes for current to ramp up. This is often even more true with higher power controllers if they aren't configurable by the end user, because it can become very jerky on the takeoff if set to ramp up the current as fast as possible, so the factory will tune it to a soft start.

The only way to know is to give it a try. If it feels good on launches, then using the CA to limit the maximum battery current will work just fine. If it jerks too much on the launch you can soften that up with the CA's throttle tuning function.

Since you've already modded a shunt, then that's an option at your disposal too. The 24fet controllers I've opened up have all had 3 shunt wires. If you're getting a real 80A out of the new controller, then cutting or removing 1 of 3 shunt wires would give it a new limit of 53A. If it hits a bit harder than you want on the launch then that might be a good route to go.

Gotcha, I'm going from a 12 fet yu yang king to a 24 fet yu yang king, so I'm thinking since it's the same brand they must have similar ramp up characteristics. I'm happier if it has a bit more punch honestly; the throttle wasn't twitchy with the last controller since I was using torque mode on the cycle analyst, so that shouldn't be an issue.

Didn't you order it with the Bluetooth access so you can easily change program settings? The BT module is quite cheap and plugs in on the board at the same connection plug they use at the factory. If the YYK controllers my favorite is the 18fet, which I custom ordered with genuine irfb4110 mosfets. It's was quite economical at the time and fairly compact, since it is shorter and fatter than the old Infineon type 18. I never tried pushing one as hard as I used to use the Infineon 18's, but those builds were had absolute reliability as a high priority. Tuning current settings, launch softness and LVC are must have's for my use.

WRT torque mode with the CA, if a controller is set to a quite slow current ramp up, you can end up with Wonky results because the CA is also applying a separate ramp up.

 

[speedyebikenoob]

Different controllers can behave very differently, with the biggest difference being in the time it takes for current to ramp up. This is often even more true with higher power controllers if they aren't configurable by the end user, because it can become very jerky on the takeoff if set to ramp up the current as fast as possible, so the factory will tune it to a soft start.

The only way to know is to give it a try. If it feels good on launches, then using the CA to limit the maximum battery current will work just fine. If it jerks too much on the launch you can soften that up with the CA's throttle tuning function.

Since you've already modded a shunt, then that's an option at your disposal too. The 24fet controllers I've opened up have all had 3 shunt wires. If you're getting a real 80A out of the new controller, then cutting or removing 1 of 3 shunt wires would give it a new limit of 53A. If it hits a bit harder than you want on the launch then that might be a good route to go.

Gotcha, I'm going from a 12 fet yu yang king to a 24 fet yu yang king, so I'm thinking since it's the same brand they must have similar ramp up characteristics. I'm happier if it has a bit more punch honestly; the throttle wasn't twitchy with the last controller since I was using torque mode on the cycle analyst, so that shouldn't be an issue.

Didn't you order it with the Bluetooth access so you can easily change program settings? The BT module is quite cheap and plugs in on the board at the same connection plug they use at the factory. If the YYK controllers my favorite is the 18fet, which I custom ordered with genuine irfb4110 mosfets. It's was quite economical at the time and fairly compact, since it is shorter and fatter than the old Infineon type 18. I never tried pushing one as hard as I used to use the Infineon 18's, but those builds were had absolute reliability as a high priority. Tuning current settings, launch softness and LVC are must have's for my use.

WRT torque mode with the CA, if a controller is set to a quite slow current ramp up, you can end up with Wonky results because the CA is also applying a separate ramp up.

Lol, you're totally right, I forgot I could also program the max current on the controller. I enjoy the snappiness and sketchiness of my bike right now. I'll probably set my ramp rates to max and the current limit the highest I can set it to without burning out my motor. My middrive is geared pretty short and in first gear even at only 55 amps you could get thrown back on your ass pretty quick if you weren't careful, and that's entertaining for me.