Kepler
10 MW
This plug is where I would be concentrating on before writing off the controller.
circuit said:A faint click on startup attempt sounds like a shorted phase. Most common reson is shorted mosfet, most likely low side. That is easy to check:
1. Take a multimeter and switch it to diode (-<|-) mode.
2. Connect red wire to B-.
3. Connect black wire to each phase. You should see redings around 300-700. If you see something like 002, then you have a blown mosfet. Replace it or bring the unit to electronics workshop to do the job.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3, but with B+ and switch black with red.
Kepler said:I don't think is is a faulty throttle. The walking pace activation would still work if the throttle was faulty.
You are confident the hall wire plug inside the drive is well seated and that a contact hasn't just pushed out?
Measure the resistance of each phase wire to ground (power in ground and battery disconnected). If any show dead short, the controller is stuffed.
Controllers should be available. TomL got a 750W controller sent to him after he damaged his when working out how the program them. Sound like you need to start pushing your supplier.
circuit said:A faint click on startup attempt sounds like a shorted phase. Most common reson is shorted mosfet, most likely low side. That is easy to check:
1. Take a multimeter and switch it to diode (-<|-) mode.
2. Connect red wire to B-.
3. Connect black wire to each phase. You should see redings around 300-700. If you see something like 002, then you have a blown mosfet. Replace it or bring the unit to electronics workshop to do the job.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3, but with B+ and switch black with red.
dumbass said:I communicated with my the EBay supplier (diyebike) and he says he will try to get a new controller for Bafang. I also spoke to Doug at California EBikes and he told me they didn't make a 750w mid-drive with a 20a controller and it should have had a 25a. And even those are undersized which is why they stopped production. I left a message for LaGrange at Lectriccycle to see if he can sell me a 25a controller and reprogram it for a max output of maybe 20a. Doug told me he thinks LaGrange has the software for doing this.
Bob
samsavvas said:dumbass said:I communicated with my the EBay supplier (diyebike) and he says he will try to get a new controller for Bafang. I also spoke to Doug at California EBikes and he told me they didn't make a 750w mid-drive with a 20a controller and it should have had a 25a. And even those are undersized which is why they stopped production. I left a message for LaGrange at Lectriccycle to see if he can sell me a 25a controller and reprogram it for a max output of maybe 20a. Doug told me he thinks LaGrange has the software for doing this.
Bob
Bob,
If you read back through recent posts at the EM3ev site's 'news' page you can read a bit about the upgrading that Bafang is pursuing for the 750W controller. Also there's a longish post just a few pages back reporting on a US-based manufacturer's tour of the factory with similar information.
Savvas.
dumbass said:From what I think is being said is; the 48v 500w motor is the same as the 48v 750w motor.
But they install a larger controller in the 750w to give it the added power.
if they are the same motor then why is it OK to run it on the 18a controller and fine tune this controller to 20a but the larger 25a controller isn't good?
As I've read several times it is now recommended to de-tune or reset the old 25a controller for a max output of 22a (which is what I'm told LectricCucle is now doing).
I relies as you increase amperage you generally increase heat as well. Doug at Cal. Ebike also told me that the new 25a 9 fet will actually be more like a true 30a controller.
The bottom line for me is; the EBay seller sold me a 750w setup with a 25a controller (it's in writing on his posting). But he delivered a motor that is clearly stamped 48v 750w 20a. So what really is this thing, a 500w or a 750w? And then there's the issue of the damaged wiring inside the motor that is un-know for sure how it became damaged.
At this point I told the seller I'm done trying to fix his problem and want a full refund because the motor doesn't work and it was misrepresented as sold. I have also posted a dispute with EBay and my credit card company. Lets face it, when you buy something it should work without having to spend days or weeks of your time to make it run correctly. The seller "claims" he pre-tests each unit before shipping. Great, I tested it on my bike with the rear wheel off the ground for 7 miles and had no problem. But put a load on it and it lasts 1 block! There's no way it could have heated up enough in a block ride to burn out a good controller no matter what size it was. To me that's a defect plain and simple.
Question is; is the controller the only problem or is this going to be a money pit?
QFT :wink:amigafan2003 said:All ebikes are money pits
dumbass said:Does anyone have an "Original" shipping box they can send me? I discarded (DUMN ME!!) mine the day before the motor failed. Technically, I think I am required to send it back in the original shipping case. I would be happy to pay the cost of sending the case and inside foam to me if someone still has it available.
Bob
tomjasz said:22 miles and display LED failure on first kit. Also the throttle is sticking badly. A bit of ACF50 and we'll see how the throttle holds up. Paul somewhere suggested adding an extra to the order. Of course I didn't. DOH! Yesterday the display came up after a few minutes, today, no joy!
Kepler said:I just use the same grease as what I use on the metal gears.
In relation to re assembling the crank section, make sure you don't over tighten this.
I use the following method:
With the shaft and thrust bearing installed, fit the silicon seal, shim, then the two nuts. Screw the first nut down very lightly so it just takes out the end play on the crank. Then screw the second nut on and tighten until you feel the crank just start to bind. Then go back just lightly (both nuts should turn together) so that the crank turns freely.
skuutti said:Ok. So I fixed the bearing problem. I removed the ball cages from the bearings altogether and filled the bearings with additional balls (6 x 3,2 mm diameter).
Click for picture
Then I made a new rubber seal to prevent water and dirt from getting in.
Click for picture
But unfortunately this didn't fix the problem!
I made a video that demonstrates the problem. At first I tap the throttle (Assist level 1) against rear brake. It makes the click every time I do this. Then I simulate what happens usually when I drive. I stop pedaling and the motor turns off, when I start to pedal again it makes this click like there is some spring loaded and it releases when I touch the pedals.
Remember! This only happens when riding in PAS-mode. When I ride without the motor it doesn't happen and when I ride with only the throttle it doesn't happen!
[youtube]4X3RCYICcSQ[/youtube]