mushymelon
1 kW
df9517 said:
You have blown a mosfet in your controller.
You need to get a replacement under warranty or purchase a new controller.
Repairing the controller is possible, I have done it but its a pain.
Mushy
Bafang BBSxx - fault finding and fixes
- Thread starter Slowrider
- Start date
You have blown a mosfet in your controller.
You need to get a replacement under warranty or purchase a new controller.
Repairing the controller is possible, I have done it but its a pain.
Mushy
mushymelon
1 kW
Here a video bafang requested, so i could get a replacement controller.
Set your multimeter to ohm resistance, place the negative probe on the controllers negative battery input.
Then probe the green, blue and yellow wires. you should get a reading of around 10.
You can see the yellow side on my controller is not functioning properly.
[youtube]LoeZCvNG9wM[/youtube]
Set your multimeter to ohm resistance, place the negative probe on the controllers negative battery input.
Then probe the green, blue and yellow wires. you should get a reading of around 10.
You can see the yellow side on my controller is not functioning properly.
[youtube]LoeZCvNG9wM[/youtube]
mushymelon
1 kW
df9517 said:
Sure
https://www.youtube.com/watch?x-yt-ts=1421914688&x-yt-cl=84503534&v=LoeZCvNG9wM
tomjasz
1 GW
Use your noodles when programing. One source of controllers has now dried up thanks to those with insufficient gonads to own their mistakes and crying warranty.
Bafang BBS01/02 Mid Drive Kit Manual: http://1drv.ms/1fdhZM2
Bafang C961 Display (for BBS02 Kit), which includes how to get into the settings and advanced settings menus to change various parameters:http://1drv.ms/1gSHNz5[/quote]
Bafang BBS01/02 Mid Drive Kit Manual: http://1drv.ms/1fdhZM2
Bafang C961 Display (for BBS02 Kit), which includes how to get into the settings and advanced settings menus to change various parameters:http://1drv.ms/1gSHNz5[/quote]
ebikedelight
1 kW
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2014
- Messages
- 307
I was thinking of purchasing a BBS02 , for my fat bike. Does anyone know for sure if the company has straightened out these problems or are they still selling
" old stock" mid drives that will experience these issues ?
" old stock" mid drives that will experience these issues ?
tomjasz
1 GW
Will the BBS02 fit your Bottom Bracket? Most FB's have 100MM BB's that requires a custom kit.
Folks like EM3ev are not selling old stock. With other China vendors or some seldom used vendor who knows? Buy from a reliable reseller. No problem.
Folks like EM3ev are not selling old stock. With other China vendors or some seldom used vendor who knows? Buy from a reliable reseller. No problem.
ebikedelight
1 kW
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2014
- Messages
- 307
tomjasz said:
I plan to customize my B.B. to allow the BBS02 to fit .
tomjasz
1 GW
The curious me wants to know how you are going about that?
Thanks!
Thanks!
My BBS02 was making noises.
http://youtu.be/VV7UvRi6bAc
About 1300 miles total... The kit was purchased from EM3ev and still under warranty. After opening the motor they discovered "a lot of moisture inside the case and teeth on pinion gear are very worn from what appears to be sand or grit".
I am surprised. This is a city commuter, was never off the beaten path. I have ridden two or three times in the rain, but the motor should be waterproof, right? I am a bit concerned about this for the future use - how come I had the sand in the case?
Anyway, worth to buy from a reliable source. Paul agreed to repair this under warranty.
http://youtu.be/VV7UvRi6bAc
About 1300 miles total... The kit was purchased from EM3ev and still under warranty. After opening the motor they discovered "a lot of moisture inside the case and teeth on pinion gear are very worn from what appears to be sand or grit".
I am surprised. This is a city commuter, was never off the beaten path. I have ridden two or three times in the rain, but the motor should be waterproof, right? I am a bit concerned about this for the future use - how come I had the sand in the case?
Anyway, worth to buy from a reliable source. Paul agreed to repair this under warranty.
ebikedelight
1 kW
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2014
- Messages
- 307
tomjasz said:
Use a plasma cutter to cutoff enough of the bottom bracket, on each side, to allow the BBS02 to fit . It can only be done on certain fat bikes where the chain stays are not welded to the absoloute outside of each side of the B.B.
tomjasz
1 GW
Eek, why not just do a 100mm kit rather than mess with the integrity of the BB! I mean if it's a mainstream FB you've already made a significant investment. What's a couple of hundred bucks when it comes to having a known success for a system?
Hello all, its playing 'silly beggars' again
For a while I have had coggy / notchy sensation through the pedals its kind of like the motor is pulsing rapidly instead of running smoothly. This was most apparent in PAS mode and seemed to clear using throttle and at higher motor speeds.
Today, after getting worse & worse, it was worst ever! It is clearly cutting in & out in a major way now.
If I hit throttle it cuts & gives 06 code with no motor power. Sometimes there is plenty of battery power showing on display but its cutting in/out rapidly. It resembles a loose connection or arcing but I have checked (visually) all external wiring & connections with no sign of damage. The display seems to be unaffected, only the motor itself. Could it be a low battery as its below freezing, battery is old etc. Would the lvc cause the notchy running of the motor?
I don't think it would as when throttle is used, motor loads up, code 06 shows, it hard cuts power. This feels like LVC.
When its arcing/cogging/pulsing motor this feels like something else.
FYI I have always had to watch battery use in cold weather because If I push the battery too hard til no bars shows (not range but just over demanding it) eventually the bike will turn off. I have to turn it off & on again and ride slower. The work around for this in cold weather is not to load the motor too much, let off every so often so the battery can 'heal' (regain a bar or so on the indicator) then go again. In hot weather the battery can make power better and I don't have this problem.
Anyway after all that... Has anyone experienced a low voltage condition on one of these motors due to a low/old battery and did it display gogging/pulsing type symptoms before it cuts out completely? Thanks, any PM advise welcome
For a while I have had coggy / notchy sensation through the pedals its kind of like the motor is pulsing rapidly instead of running smoothly. This was most apparent in PAS mode and seemed to clear using throttle and at higher motor speeds.
Today, after getting worse & worse, it was worst ever! It is clearly cutting in & out in a major way now.
If I hit throttle it cuts & gives 06 code with no motor power. Sometimes there is plenty of battery power showing on display but its cutting in/out rapidly. It resembles a loose connection or arcing but I have checked (visually) all external wiring & connections with no sign of damage. The display seems to be unaffected, only the motor itself. Could it be a low battery as its below freezing, battery is old etc. Would the lvc cause the notchy running of the motor?
I don't think it would as when throttle is used, motor loads up, code 06 shows, it hard cuts power. This feels like LVC.
When its arcing/cogging/pulsing motor this feels like something else.
FYI I have always had to watch battery use in cold weather because If I push the battery too hard til no bars shows (not range but just over demanding it) eventually the bike will turn off. I have to turn it off & on again and ride slower. The work around for this in cold weather is not to load the motor too much, let off every so often so the battery can 'heal' (regain a bar or so on the indicator) then go again. In hot weather the battery can make power better and I don't have this problem.
Anyway after all that... Has anyone experienced a low voltage condition on one of these motors due to a low/old battery and did it display gogging/pulsing type symptoms before it cuts out completely? Thanks, any PM advise welcome
teslanv
1 MW
aniken said:
It may be a poor battery cable connection. Check all the solder joints between the battery and the controller thoroughly, and repair if needed.
mfj197
10 W
I've been installing a new BBS01 into a road bike and have now fitted the crank arms. When I turn the cranks forwards by hand I get creaks and rattles once per revolution, like this:
[youtube]HFRCWXPLRmc[/youtube]
Is this normal? The motor has yet to be connected to power as I haven't finished welding up the battery pack yet so I haven't put any miles on it. I bought the motor here in the UK and it is still under warranty - I don't want to continue with the install if I need to send it back. Equally if it's just me being paranoid and the bearings will bed in and quieten down then do put my mind at rest!
I haven't got the motor serial number to hand but will edit and post it here when I can.
Thanks in advance.
Michael
[youtube]HFRCWXPLRmc[/youtube]
Is this normal? The motor has yet to be connected to power as I haven't finished welding up the battery pack yet so I haven't put any miles on it. I bought the motor here in the UK and it is still under warranty - I don't want to continue with the install if I need to send it back. Equally if it's just me being paranoid and the bearings will bed in and quieten down then do put my mind at rest!
I haven't got the motor serial number to hand but will edit and post it here when I can.
Thanks in advance.
Michael
Arvicola Terrestris
100 W
mfj197 said:
No one but you can put your mind at rest!
It can be many things and nothing, finish the conversion take a few rides, and see if it continues. Use some time on the "problem".
A few weeks ago I got a weird sound in my bosch center motor after a few days it disappeared. The same thing happened with my BBS02, it didn't disappear and you can read about it in another thread. What I'm trying to say is use some time on you problem to figure out what it might could be. It could be at least twenty different things.
teslanv
1 MW
When my journal bearing connection failed, I stripped the motor down, cleaned it and put it back together. I used a generous amount of grease putting it back together. It has been quiet ever since.
it could be that they are using less grease now in the factory, for whatever reason.
Maybe pull the cover plate off the final gear (easy to get to) and apply some moly grease in there to see if it quiets down...
it could be that they are using less grease now in the factory, for whatever reason.
Maybe pull the cover plate off the final gear (easy to get to) and apply some moly grease in there to see if it quiets down...
tomjasz
1 GW
Sadly I think this is a good idea for most users. My two were sadly lacking adequate grease. After I read about this the first time I followed this advice. DO IT. You'll be glad. It might have saved the single, so far, report of a set of fired bearings. Great kit. lacking great oversight in the OEM build.
mfj197
10 W
Yes, you're quite right. What I was trying to figure out was whether I should investigate or just ship it back to the supplier. I think I've narrowed the problem down a bit though.Arvicola Terrestris said:
Sounds a good idea. The noises are once per crank revolution but if I stop, back the cranks up a bit (freewheel clicks) then continue turning the noise continues from where it left off, i.e. from the orientation of the large sprocket rather than the new position of the crank arms relative to the large sprocket. So it's not bottom bracket bearings but is something to do with the large sprocket itself.teslanv said:
Wise words. If I did send it back to the supplier I might receive another unit just the same, and it sounds like it will need regreasing every now and then anyway. I'll be putting serious miles on it when it's installed so it will require maintenance. I think I'll remove the crank and regrease the bearings to set it up for a good life.tomjasz said:
Thanks guys.
Michael
teslanv
1 MW
Should be OK by itself, although it may not mix well with the factory grease. Kind of hard to say, actually. The best thing to do would be to clean the final gear of it's original grease and use that grease.
To the guy who has the noisy drive keep building it up and don't worry just yet. Mine has really taken some punishment and been taken fully apart and reassembled twice now and done thousands of km. The first time it did chew a bearing up that cost less than a tenner to replace, the second time it was noisy as hell so I suspected the worst. I took it fully apart and found absolutely nothing wrong. I cleaned it and refilled it totally with grease and it was good as new.
A lot of noise seems to come from the bit the sprocket attaches to. It scrapes on the casing especially when dirt gets in there. Don't be afraid to liberally apply wd40 or similar to the area and see if it fixes anything. I have flooded mine with the stuff in the past trying to flush things out. I actually apply the liquid chain lube I have which is a thin oil to the area now when I do the chain which helps keep things quiet, also a lot of noise comes from the chain itself striking the front sprocket when it gets dirty.
If you need any advise then pm me as I have been running one of these daily on a road bike for over a year, maybe two years now, I forget. You need to get a bigger front sprocket so you can use normal size rears because they wear out too fast and and jump teeth on the smallest ones. That's if you want to go fast that is. 13t lasts about two months, don't even bother trying 12s IMO. I need a bigger front myself as I just keep throwing new rear freewheels on for about £6 each. I have gone through about 4 now. When I say 'last' what I mean is takes maximum leg power plus max motor without slippage. I ride em hard til they slip then ride slower to get maybe 4/5 months use out of them until they start to slip with motor plus light pedalling. Then I swap them as its annoying to ride otherwise. My front cog is severely shark tooth worn now but it won't slip as its so large, however its the right time to get a bigger one and stop this slippage problem being so frequent. IMO if you have a 250w 36v one like mine aim to gear it to 45kph no load speed with the smallest rear cog of minimum 15t and it will probably last a long time.
MY PROBLEM... So I had the bike up on the stand in the garage and tried everything to make it do the problem... Chain off on all speeds, chain on trying to slow the rear wheel to simulate riding, vibrated the hell out of the bike, wiggled all connections, wiggled battery, got brutal on it and just went nuts trying everything I could... Nothing! So I think ,
'Hey maybe its working'? So I jump on and go off for a ride. Its NOT working right at all! Immediately its juddery under load, then the battery goes from 3 bars to zero and power stops, display is on though, shows code 06, then power is back, battery indicator seems erratic. Its doing it on throttle and pas. I am 99% certain its the battery. I believe as soon as the motor kicks in or to be more exact a second or two after, the battery voltage is plummeting due to motor demand.
The weird thing is I thought if I put less load on motor, i.e. low gear, I thought I could 'diagnose' a bad battery by keeping the demand low thus voltage high and avoid lvc conditions but I can't! It does it with the throttle fixed on the lowest setting on low speed exactly as much as if I have the throttle flat out on high speed. I suspect the batt has a major issue now.
I will ghetto rig a voltmeter and go for a ride tomorrow and know for sure. I believe 30v is lvc. I actually think its more than a voltage issue with the batt because it shows 39.5v off the bike but I bet when you begin to demand amps the thing goes screwy.
So good news seems to be that the actual motor unit and install seems okay, (of course it is... I built it really well
)
Also I should add the battery still works okay on my other hub drive brushed motor planetary geared bike, no cutting out or weird antics, just reduced range as I arrive at work with 2 lights out of 4 when it used to be 3 in winter and 4 lights in summer. My theory here is that the actual motor on that bike must be the size of a matchbox, much smaller than the bafang. Maybe draws less? My battery must be nearly 5 years old and done thousands of miles, maybe 7000, also been half discharged and recharged probably 1200 times by now.
A lot of noise seems to come from the bit the sprocket attaches to. It scrapes on the casing especially when dirt gets in there. Don't be afraid to liberally apply wd40 or similar to the area and see if it fixes anything. I have flooded mine with the stuff in the past trying to flush things out. I actually apply the liquid chain lube I have which is a thin oil to the area now when I do the chain which helps keep things quiet, also a lot of noise comes from the chain itself striking the front sprocket when it gets dirty.
If you need any advise then pm me as I have been running one of these daily on a road bike for over a year, maybe two years now, I forget. You need to get a bigger front sprocket so you can use normal size rears because they wear out too fast and and jump teeth on the smallest ones. That's if you want to go fast that is. 13t lasts about two months, don't even bother trying 12s IMO. I need a bigger front myself as I just keep throwing new rear freewheels on for about £6 each. I have gone through about 4 now. When I say 'last' what I mean is takes maximum leg power plus max motor without slippage. I ride em hard til they slip then ride slower to get maybe 4/5 months use out of them until they start to slip with motor plus light pedalling. Then I swap them as its annoying to ride otherwise. My front cog is severely shark tooth worn now but it won't slip as its so large, however its the right time to get a bigger one and stop this slippage problem being so frequent. IMO if you have a 250w 36v one like mine aim to gear it to 45kph no load speed with the smallest rear cog of minimum 15t and it will probably last a long time.
MY PROBLEM... So I had the bike up on the stand in the garage and tried everything to make it do the problem... Chain off on all speeds, chain on trying to slow the rear wheel to simulate riding, vibrated the hell out of the bike, wiggled all connections, wiggled battery, got brutal on it and just went nuts trying everything I could... Nothing! So I think ,
'Hey maybe its working'? So I jump on and go off for a ride. Its NOT working right at all! Immediately its juddery under load, then the battery goes from 3 bars to zero and power stops, display is on though, shows code 06, then power is back, battery indicator seems erratic. Its doing it on throttle and pas. I am 99% certain its the battery. I believe as soon as the motor kicks in or to be more exact a second or two after, the battery voltage is plummeting due to motor demand.
The weird thing is I thought if I put less load on motor, i.e. low gear, I thought I could 'diagnose' a bad battery by keeping the demand low thus voltage high and avoid lvc conditions but I can't! It does it with the throttle fixed on the lowest setting on low speed exactly as much as if I have the throttle flat out on high speed. I suspect the batt has a major issue now.
I will ghetto rig a voltmeter and go for a ride tomorrow and know for sure. I believe 30v is lvc. I actually think its more than a voltage issue with the batt because it shows 39.5v off the bike but I bet when you begin to demand amps the thing goes screwy.
So good news seems to be that the actual motor unit and install seems okay, (of course it is... I built it really well
) Also I should add the battery still works okay on my other hub drive brushed motor planetary geared bike, no cutting out or weird antics, just reduced range as I arrive at work with 2 lights out of 4 when it used to be 3 in winter and 4 lights in summer. My theory here is that the actual motor on that bike must be the size of a matchbox, much smaller than the bafang. Maybe draws less? My battery must be nearly 5 years old and done thousands of miles, maybe 7000, also been half discharged and recharged probably 1200 times by now.
Chalz
1 W
Bafanged it.
Build Link
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2641574516043.1073741831.1155961167&type=1&l=caeab861a9
Build Link
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2641574516043.1073741831.1155961167&type=1&l=caeab861a9
Hi Guys,
I had a problem with some strange noises coming from my BBS02.
http://youtu.be/VV7UvRi6bAc
I sent the motor as instructed by Paul (em3ev) for a warranty repair. I got it back and put it on the bike yesterday. Unfortunately, it does not sound like it is working properly. I am not sure about the noise when not under the load (sounds too loud for me), however, under the load it sounds definitely not good…
http://youtu.be/sslyfBVYOxg
What do you think? Do you know possible source of the problem?
Thank you!
I had a problem with some strange noises coming from my BBS02.
http://youtu.be/VV7UvRi6bAc
I sent the motor as instructed by Paul (em3ev) for a warranty repair. I got it back and put it on the bike yesterday. Unfortunately, it does not sound like it is working properly. I am not sure about the noise when not under the load (sounds too loud for me), however, under the load it sounds definitely not good…
http://youtu.be/sslyfBVYOxg
What do you think? Do you know possible source of the problem?
Thank you!
tomjasz
1 GW
Did you call the warranty fulfiller and share the video? That would be my first move. Beats the kind of speculation you'll get based on rather poor sound recording. Just an idea... That would be my first move.bono said:
