Bafang controller

Hammy

1 mW
Joined
Mar 1, 2025
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10
Location
Uk
My son has a bafang fat 750w 48v 25A custom built scooter throttle only, its only done 90 miles and the controller has failed, i cant find a replacement its a GO62 type would a 30A controller work any help is much appreciated thanks karl
 

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What makes you think the controller is duff? is it a 'headless' controller? if not what does the display say?

whats the motor connection? 9 pin or 3 pin?
 
Before you buy new parts, to make sure you get the right ones:

--what happened before the failure, and what does it do or not do now that it didn't do or did do before?

--what specific features does a new controller have to have (what does it need to do for you, what other equipment has to connect to it, what connector types, etc)? Throttle input is the only thing listed in your post, beyond the 48v / 25A (750w).

Whether a higher current (30 vs 25A, etc) will work depends on your battery's capabilities. If the battery is more than capable of the higher current demand, then it should work, but if it is not, you'd need to change the battery as well.
 
Depends. As noted, your battery needs to be up to snuff and have the ability to handle the current requirement. In addition, ratings for controllers vary. Some controllers will state “Rated 22A (continuous) 30A max (peak)”. Others may just show 30A on the label, with no indication of whether it’s a continuous current rating or peak.

You controller states 25A. If that’s a continuous rating, you could run it all day at 25A without damaging it (unless you deprive it of airflow). If it’s a peak rating, then you’d fry the controller running it for an extended period at 25A.

Your battery should have a continuous discharge current rating that is at least slightly higher than the controller’s rated current. The more headroom, the better (since a battery’s discharge capability decreases over time as it degrades).

Yes the 30A controller will work. But if you want it (or the battery) to last longer than the last one, then start with the battery’s current specs before choosing a controller, and be clear about the controllers actual current rating before hitting the buy button.
 
Before you buy new parts, to make sure you get the right ones:

--what happened before the failure, and what does it do or not do now that it didn't do or did do before?

--what specific features does a new controller have to have (what does it need to do for you, what other equipment has to connect to it, what connector types, etc)? Throttle input is the only thing listed in your post, beyond the 48v / 25A (750w).

Whether a higher current (30 vs 25A, etc) will work depends on your battery's capabilities. If the battery is more than capable of the higher current demand, then it should work, but if it is not, you'd need to change the battery as well.
Thanks for the replies . Firstly i know nothing about these things i brought it for my son to get around on, the scooter was working fine in the evening next morning no drive only walk assist, i took it to an electric bike doctor who told me it was the controller malfunction, what is a common fault and can be reprogrammed but since the visit ive had no joy with him just being ghosted, the controller is a CRS1074825E103625.3, the battery is a 48v 13hm the the motor is RM GOF2.750.DC 06 F2WB020011 i believe its a bafang dc18 display it has no lights fitted as yet, has hydraulic brakes with no electrical connections, i looked at the diplay and it had no codes showing ive just checked again and it has a 08 code. I hope this helps its been out of use now for 7 weeks and i need to get it sorted out, ive trawled the net for a replacement but cant find a replacement thanks again for your help
 
What makes you think the controller is duff? is it a 'headless' controller? if not what does the display say?

whats the motor connection? 9 pin or 3 pin?
Thanks for the reply ive got no idea about the headless controller plug has 3 big pins and 7 needle like pins thanks again
 

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Thanks for the reply ive got no idea about the headless controller plug has 3 big pins and 7 needle like pins thanks again
The L10 motor connector is not real common, and most cheap controllers don’t have motor temperature monitoring. When you say custom built, do you mean you bought someone’s DIY type of conversion?
Grin tech uses the L10 on most of its hub motors, and sells controllers using that motor plug, supporting speed and temp sensing. They are not budget components though.
Some more background regarding the scooter would be helpful. Knowing whether you have soldering skills, a multimeter, tools, etc, would also be good info.
 
The L10 motor connector is not real common, and most cheap controllers don’t have motor temperature monitoring. When you say custom built, do you mean you bought someone’s DIY type of conversion?
Grin tech uses the L10 on most of its hub motors, and sells controllers using that motor plug, supporting speed and temp sensing. They are not budget components though.
Some more background regarding the scooter would be helpful. Knowing whether you have soldering skills, a multimeter, tools, etc, would also be good info.
 

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I do have tools like soldering irons etc but im not confident on electronics the scooters was made from scratch but the company that made it has now stopped trading,
 
Oh my. That could be a Grin phaserunner. With shipping $400.
Do you have a close up pic of the controller? Also the display?
 
Thanks for the reply ive got no idea about the headless controller plug has 3 big pins and 7 needle like pins thanks again
your pic shows a display unit on the bars, 'Headless' simply means without a display, The display will in the event of a detectable error display a relevant code... if no display power/lights, look at the battery and power to the display - displays can have 1 wire carrying up to battery level voltage for power.
 
If you know the controller is dead, you can cut off its L10 connector and splice it to another 25A controller with more common connectors.. You could probably use crimps for the three heavy phase wires, and solder for the thin signal wires. It's just a mechanical exercise. Another option is to splice the entire cable inside the new controller box. Then you can twist the heavier wires, etc, and have plenty of space to solder/splice.

New controller means new display.

Probably less than $120,, Is that less than what a Grin with L10 costs? You don't need much on a scooter. Just a throttle input and brake cutoffs, and ability to sustain the current.

Looking at the battery (13Ah?)and the small controller box on the frame (same one I have on on my 500W ebikes), the electronics were too small for the speeds your son was probably doing,
 
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If you know the controller is dead, you can cut off its L10 connector and splice it to another 25A controller with more common connectors.. You could probably use crimps for the three heavy phase wires, and solder for the thin signal wires. It's just a mechanical exercise. Another option is to splice the entire cable inside the new controller box. Then you can twist the heavier wires, etc, and have plenty of space to solder/splice.

New controller means new display.

Probably less than $120,, Is that less than what a Grin with L10 costs? You don't need much on a scooter. Just a throttle input and brake cutoffs, and ability to sustain the current.

Looking at the battery (13Ah?)and the small controller box on the frame (same one I have on on my 500W ebikes), the electronics were too small for the speeds your son was probably doing,
Thanks for the reply 13Ah is what it says on the sticker on the battery box, i now believe the the electronics were purchased from ali express as a complete set up so i guess i may end up changing it all over
 
Oh my. That could be a Grin phaserunner. With shipping $400.
Do you have a close up pic of the controller? Also the display?
 

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My eyes played tricks on me. I agree with docw009. Get a controller that meets your requirements, and graft the old controller side motor cable to it. You have options to use a new display, no display, or just a key switch with voltage meter to check battery level. You should decide what you want to retain, add, or remove, then choose a controller. Sine wave if you want to keep it quieter. You should be able to use you exiting levers and throttle. You could also swap out your throttle for one with a key switch and voltage display.
 
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