Baseboard - Composite platform for open sourcers

bandaro

10 kW
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
528
Location
Canberra, Australia
G'day guys, so as some of you know I make conventional longboards regularly, and have been prototyping an electric model recently.

baseboard_001.jpg

Glad to say I have reached a stage where I am pretty happy with the prototype. I am still waiting on the grip tape and some trucks to build it as a regular electric, but I fitted a pair of trucks and wheels onto it and took it for a little spin without the grip/electrics. The board has come out super solid feeling at a very acceptable weight. I haven't fully tested it as I am waiting for the grip to arrive, but I could flick it out without twist, stand on my heel on the top lid without deflection, bounce and shuffle around on it without problem.

So onto specs:

- 988mm (39") long
- 662mm (26") wheelbase
- 240mm (9.5") wide on the gas pedals
- 13* rear kick angle
- 110*530*25mm (4.3*20.8*1") Battery compartment inbuilt
- Elliptical tub concave, should come to around 16mm gripped
- Shape is similar to the superglider that people seem to love, but with beasty gas pedals.

This compartment can fit 12 cells of the zippy 5000mah lipo's (so 12s1p/6s2p or anything smaller). I will be running mine in 6s2p configuration. For convenience/price/looks, I am setting mine up with a backlit LED power switch connected to an electronic relay, and the batteries hard wired as 6s2p with a single 15 pin AV plug. This plug was used for a couple of reasons: balance and power can be split on top/bottom rows, handles the power, single plug for everything, same spacing as standard hxt balance plugs. This means that the top row of 7 pins can have a cheap cell checker/alarm plugged in and fastened to the deck with velcro so I don't have to rely on the ESC cutout to save the batteries and they can easily be checked externally.

The current deck used an old piece of carbon that has been off the roll and tucked away for a while hence the not quite straight grain, with a vacuum used to apply it so this left the wobbles in the surface (it's only for me to I wasn't too fussed about it visually as it's still a proto). The vacuum meant I couldn't pull the fabric all the way down to the white acrylic supports, so they were cut out. If I start a beta production run I will use a full mould that should pull the fabric right down tight and leave a wobble free surface on the carbon.

When I designed/cut the core materials I thought it would be set for both lipo (2 cells high) and 18650 cell packs at a minimum deck thickness. Unfortunately, Enertion has since come out with a battery 30mm wider than the compartment. This is one aspect I would greatly appreciate your input on. Do I leave it the same dimensions or alter them to fit the pack? If I alter them, I will need to make the board much wider than everyone is used to, ie about 280mm to ensure it is still structurally sound, or have the board about 30mm thick on the edges and look noticeably tank-like.

Here are some pics straight from the workshop, I will get a mini photoshoot when the board is finished:


baseboard_002.jpg

baseboard_003.jpg

baseboard_004.jpg


General info: Ride height is about the same as a regular 9 ply topmount, deep wheel wells accommodate 97mm wheels - maybe larger, graphics can be custom for each deck, veneer/balsa/carbon construction, perfect for hub motors, downhill speedboard style flex, deck appears to be 10mm thick from side view then angles down on chamfer.

Still to do: wire up battery, velcro the "lid" into place, cut holes in the rear base for the esc's to stick through for cooling, drill holes for the motor wires to exit, apply grip. General finishings really. Also, I broke a tap in one of my mounts so will have to cut a new one if I can't get it out.

So what does everyone think? wider board to accomodate 18650 cells? stay with lipo for now? Is this something people would be interested for a beta run once I have run it through it's paces and happy with?

The post below has what changes are confirmed that will be on any future decks, this post will be updated with more info/better photo's.
 
Future iterations will have:

- Vertical trimmed edges to frame the board. The proto used a wraparound for added strength, but this is proving unnecessary so far. This means future boards can have timber edges to "frame" the deck, such as one a recent build of mine below.

- Carbon fabric pressed over replacing the white patches that have the plug/switch mounted.

- Fit 3s cells deep and only 2 packs long, keep the same 12 cells total max but in an easier to wire configuration

- Possibly use a larger plug in mine (users can fit own/request specific one) to allow the cells to be charged as separate packs - I have a 4x6, so 4 separate 50w chargers. I could halve my charge time by this.


I've started said board, going well, but pretty full with jobs for the next week, but hopefully find some time in the evenings to continue. Still gotta pay the rent while this is being developed...


ong.jpg
 
with 12 5ah batteries the board must weigh? 25+ pounds?

That would be awesome range of 100 km (60 miles)

How does the board handle with the higher deck height?

At a reasonable price I would be interested in buying one.

Very cool
 
CSN said:
with 12 5ah batteries the board must weigh? 25+ pounds?

That would be awesome range of 100 km (60 miles)

How does the board handle with the higher deck height?

At a reasonable price I would be interested in buying one.


Sorry, to clarify that is 12 cells not 12 batteries, so 12s1p or 6s2p (as I will be running). You can obviously run 6s1p/4s3p/4s1p or any combination up to 12 total cells. Just use some foam spacers to stop them bumping around if there is spare room.

What extra height? The ride height is the same as any other top mount deck with the same wheels (for example the superglider or bhangra). It is lower than a mountain board. The underside of the deck is about the same height (with the same wheel size) as a classic drop through. I have an identical set of trucks/wheels on the way for a customer build, I'll snap some photo's of two boards side by side, sorry if I was confusing.

Depending on material costs, rough figure stands at $350 Aussie (270 US) + postage for it complete with coarse grip and custom graphics. Sound reasonable guys?
 
Hey, I was wondering if it was really necessary to build the board out of carbon fibre?
What are the problems when designing the board that made you reach for carbon?
 
more picts!!!!

I wonder how much shipping to the US?

I think that is reasonable price if it's quasi custom detailed for the buyer.
 
270 US $ is a very affordable price for the quality of your custom board, I've seen shops sell more expensive non-motorised boards where I live! Awesome new option for DIYers :D

Do you plan to sell to Europe too?
 
270 US $ is a very affordable price for the quality of your custom board, I've seen shops sell more expensive non-motorised boards where I live! Awesome new option for DIYers :D

Do you plan to sell to Europe too?
 
2wayspeaker said:
Hey, I was wondering if it was really necessary to build the board out of carbon fibre?
What are the problems when designing the board that made you reach for carbon?

Sure, I could have built it using regular veneers, without any fibre reinforcement. BUT, this wouldn't have been considerably cheaper as one would expect, and it would weigh a lot more. The benefit of the carbon is I could use a low density core. I could extend the sandwich theory out from a regular board, making the carbon do 3x the work as in a conventional thickness layup. This wasn't a problem for carbon while keeping it light and strong.

Additionally, if I had used only timber the materials cost would have been enough veneers to make up the ~32mm thick (this is the thickness around the batteries from grip to graphics) so would have been about 3x the material costs compared to a conventional board. The balsa was cheaper, lighter and easier to machine, so cheaper again. A solid timber layup would have also been much thicker, resulting in the edge of the board being ~32mm thick and the ride height being ~20mm higher. I could do something like rs4race's boards, but chose the carbon option. Would people prefer a build similar to rs4race's then? http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=62751


more picts!!!!

I wonder how much shipping to the US?

I think that is reasonable price if it's quasi custom detailed for the buyer

Yep, pics when I have the grip. I'll get a video riding it then too.

Not sure on shipping price, have to get a total weight with packaging and package size first.


270 US $ is a very affordable price for the quality of your custom board, I've seen shops sell more expensive non-motorised boards where I live! Awesome new option for DIYers :D

Do you plan to sell to Europe too?

Yeah, you can get something like a wefunk or 313 for about the 500 euro mark upwards. But they are very different boards to this style. That being said,having ridden both myself (as has the local wefunk sponsored racer), my equivalent models to theirs give them a run for their money. They charge more because they have the brand recognition behind them.

Unless sales exceed expectations, I will have them made/be making them locally in Australia, so shipping world wide as needed.
 
No I ment it in the context of fibre reinforced plastics.
Why not glassfibre or aramid fibre, or a mix of aramid and carbon,...
Of the fibre reinforced plastics, why did you choose carbon?

Because I'm thinking of building a board using glass fibre + structure material so if you have done any tests/simulations that can tell me now it would fail and why, that'd be really helpfull.
 
2wayspeaker said:
Because I'm thinking of building a board using glass fibre + structure material

Now we are getting somewhere. Structurally, glass would be fine provided you used a little more. I chose carbon because I work with it a lot, so it was convenient to use it to reduce the weight and flex. Carbon has the bonus of being more snappy, so the board will twist less under you making them more responsive - great for a faster speeds. I prefer the feel of carbon torsionally, but you can get the same benefits from glass, just make it a little heavier. Shoot me a pm.



Loooks good. I might be interested in one.

I'd like a cavity and a top hatch or top cover probably.

Yeah the top hatch makes more sense both structurally and in terms of protection from the elements.

I'm ordering some materials, while they are on the way I'm finishing putting the gear together that arrived today. Hopefully electrics V1 will run fine, but thinking the motor plate might be too flimsy in the long run (it's 2mm alu now).




In regards to height, if you run more than a 1/8" riser, then your ride is higher (same difference from 83 kegels and 90mm abecs). You can see the wheel nut sitting on top of an 8 ply deck, there is about 3-4 mm difference between the two (both running old 70mm flashies). The bottom surface is a bit higher than a drop through I use for sliding.

Edit: unfortunately the specs given for the relay were *slightly* off, so it won't fit. I will have to use either a 30A switch or rely on the FVT esc for the switch and bullet plugs for the good old manual disconnect.
 
A quick update to what is happening:

I am getting the setup tuned in and sorted out regarding programming, belt tension, etc. Haven't really kicked it much, but I haven't noticed the height while riding yet. The deck and mounts are holding up very well.

During the final build phase and working on it since, some things came up as unexpected/potential issues/general comments:

1) Taking apart my old packs and wiring the 2x3 cell long packs was very annoying for the thickness saving made. For this reason I'll be making future decks with 3 cells height capability, so you can run a 6s long pack or two 3s packs in series (or any combination up to 3 cells high, 12 cells total). Most people run multiples of 3s packs so this will work well for everyone. This will also support 26650 li-ion.

2) My charger is only rated to 50 watts, so will be needing a faster charger. I wired to a single plug purely to leave it looking better, so will get a charger that doesn't take 5 hours. So this one's really a cheap charger problem...

3)
Another charger issue, but I need to put the proper plugs on the charge wires. At the moment I have unshielded alligator clips holding the wires and sitting on the bench, so I can't move the board to work on it while charging. The board plug works well (nice and firm) but the loose wires are an issue and need finishing. The board is just too fun to ride, I can't bring myself to leave it and do wiring!

4) If the cell checker starts to fall off the velcro that holds it flat on the board while I'm riding, then it gets a bad reading from one cell. This is great because it will beep at you if you didn't put it on properly and you can fix it before it drops off and you lose it. Or if you trust your controller to voltage cutout then don't run it at all...

5) The more places you ride, the more people will stop you for a chat. And the more people will want to take it for a spin. Need to make the motors absolutely silent so nobody knows how I am going quite as fast as I am.

6)
My controller housing for the gt2E internals is working well for me on a lower power setup (~1500 watts). I may get some bigger motors/make hub motors to bump up the power when I get everything dialed in if I'm feeling it.

7) The velcro holding the lid down is great. It pushes the lid up high enough to get a grip on it to pull is off with your fingers, but not high enough (and easily presses flat) so that your feet don't notice it through shoes and bump it around.


I will start the mouldings for the revised board next week, and have a model to show the week or two after all going well, depending how much spare time I can find.
 
okp said:
great ! thanks a lot; how do you plan to make the motor silents ? a motor cover ? my evolve has a cover on the rear motor; really low decibels and stealth in terms of sound noise.

I'm not sure on the motor noise reduction yet, a well tuned motor runs quieter, but I will probably do something mechanical to block the noise if possible, depending on what sort of air flow I need. Have to run it more and find out. Getting the ESC tuned up and going well. Not finished tinkering with them, but getting there - 35km top speed so far, should hit around the 40 mark on full batts. The evolve use a low power motor so get away with any heat and noise issues that was I believe, either that or they claim lower power than they make for legal reasons - Australia has a 250 watt limit.

On another note, really glad the board is nice and rigid, responding well at speed. Would not be fun on a bouncy board such as a tan tien.
 
okp said:
what about a kevlar enclosure around the motor ? I heard kevlar was nice to reduce the noise


Possibly. Designing a belt guard for my drive mounts, and may make it infusion moulded kevlar to continue around the motors, adding protection and noise reduction.

I think I need to starts selling all these things so I can afford to continue prototyping the next iteration/tricky little gadget for it!
 
You should.. I just bought a board from Hi5ber to customize into electric. That deck alone was about $220 or so. I figure better than buying a damn Loaded (overpriced) deck for $200.

Although, would be nice to have a top hatch deck. Would be easier to switch packs.
 
torqueboards said:
Although, would be nice to have a top hatch deck. Would be easier to switch packs.


What do you mean 'top hatch deck'? The hatch on mine is mounted on the top, shown in one of the pics in the first post. Would you prefer something different to this?

I'm planning a big ride today, shall be great! But I agree, buying a Loaded is just paying for the name, there are many other brands that are just as good or better without the price tag.
 
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