Hi E-Skate addicts,
this is the official TRAMPA DIY thread showing how we build our own boards for our personal private use.
Basically I want to build a Urban/Street Carver with the battery box below the deck, 11S4P, single 118KV motor and VESC 6. I don't want the Battery Box to affect the flex and I want the board to take me pretty far. I made a simple model from cardboard to proof that the slitting pattern, I want to cut into our super sturdy fibre reinforced battery boxes, works. These are made of the same material we use for our unbreakable decks. Its a impact resistant material, not splitting apart, whatever you do. Pretty good to protect 18650 lithium cells! Ted and I always said we need something sturdy rather than an enclosure being more or less a protection against water, dirt and critical looks. So we invested into a mould to make these super sturdy panels, which are pretty generic (shape wise) and can be used with all sorts of skate decks.
http://www.trampaboards.com/battery-boxes-c-775.html?all=1
The downside is that they do not like to bend into the curve of our MTBs and Carve Boards.
So I will show you how to tweak them.
This post will always be updated, so keep an eye on the first post if you can.
I will try to use only basic tools and I will show exactly (down to the detail) how to achieve what we achieved.
We will build up an Urban Carver first. I will start using this delicious board:
http://www.trampaboards.com/trampas-electric-urban-carver-with-mini-vertigo-spring-trucks--7-inch-superstar-wheels-black-p-24026.html
First thing we will do is is having a look at my cardboard model. Two slit patterns will allow the box to flex up and down and will release all the strain from the material while bending
Now we try to replicate that, using our 70cm long Battery Box Panel, 4 or 5 Ply:
The following images will show how to cut the box precisely. I made a tool from old chunks of wood to do the Job:
Before cutting the first Slits we drill the 6mm holes, we want the slit to end in. I start using a 2mm drill and follow with a 6mm drill, then use a sinker to smoothen the edges. As you can see my Battery Box looks quite terrible on the inside. This is a single side moulded prototype and not the nice and need one you will get (shown below).
I only cut the short slits for the now, since I want to try out how the battery box will perform without the other slits.
I took a 35° Holy Pro to give it a try:
http://www.trampaboards.com/685e-electric-mountain-board-on-vertigo-trucks-superstars-wheels--ratchet-bindings-gunmetal-p-13845.html
View attachment 8
If you want to build a Mountainboard with a stiff deck, I would only cut the slits on the side.
We want to try out how our cardboard model will perform in real world, so I will continue and finish the job.
Works a treat!
lets fit the box to the deck! I pre-drilled some 2mm pilot holes in the edges of the box to transfer the hole position to the deck accurately. A Trampa under board vinyl sticker sits waiting to be attached to this beauty.
View attachment 5
http://www.trampaboards.com/580mm-vinyl-stickers--under-board-trampa-vinyls-p-261.html
This is the best method to ad in nice stainless threads into your deck. We want M4 repair threads!
I use a drop of epoxy glue to secure them in the deck. Do not apply the grip tape untill you have finished off your entire board! Its the last thing to do!
Now we want to close off the ends of the box and ad in a silicone membrane against dust and water.
We cut up a 16 Ply 35° long to show a section of the deck-battery-box assembly.
God forgive us!
I use the following materials to continue my work on the box and the battery pack.
You can buy everything here: https://www.modulor.de/en/3
Great shop having almost everything you can imagine.
I use the double side sticky 2mm neoprene foam to stick the l-profile to the deck. Sticks to your board like xxxx to a blanket! That 10mm neoprene strip is glued with Pattex.
That's it for today. Next time I will show you how to perfectly seal off your motor.
Frank
this is the official TRAMPA DIY thread showing how we build our own boards for our personal private use.
Basically I want to build a Urban/Street Carver with the battery box below the deck, 11S4P, single 118KV motor and VESC 6. I don't want the Battery Box to affect the flex and I want the board to take me pretty far. I made a simple model from cardboard to proof that the slitting pattern, I want to cut into our super sturdy fibre reinforced battery boxes, works. These are made of the same material we use for our unbreakable decks. Its a impact resistant material, not splitting apart, whatever you do. Pretty good to protect 18650 lithium cells! Ted and I always said we need something sturdy rather than an enclosure being more or less a protection against water, dirt and critical looks. So we invested into a mould to make these super sturdy panels, which are pretty generic (shape wise) and can be used with all sorts of skate decks.
http://www.trampaboards.com/battery-boxes-c-775.html?all=1
The downside is that they do not like to bend into the curve of our MTBs and Carve Boards.
So I will show you how to tweak them.
This post will always be updated, so keep an eye on the first post if you can.
I will try to use only basic tools and I will show exactly (down to the detail) how to achieve what we achieved.
We will build up an Urban Carver first. I will start using this delicious board:
http://www.trampaboards.com/trampas-electric-urban-carver-with-mini-vertigo-spring-trucks--7-inch-superstar-wheels-black-p-24026.html
First thing we will do is is having a look at my cardboard model. Two slit patterns will allow the box to flex up and down and will release all the strain from the material while bending
Now we try to replicate that, using our 70cm long Battery Box Panel, 4 or 5 Ply:
The following images will show how to cut the box precisely. I made a tool from old chunks of wood to do the Job:
Before cutting the first Slits we drill the 6mm holes, we want the slit to end in. I start using a 2mm drill and follow with a 6mm drill, then use a sinker to smoothen the edges. As you can see my Battery Box looks quite terrible on the inside. This is a single side moulded prototype and not the nice and need one you will get (shown below).
I only cut the short slits for the now, since I want to try out how the battery box will perform without the other slits.
I took a 35° Holy Pro to give it a try:
http://www.trampaboards.com/685e-electric-mountain-board-on-vertigo-trucks-superstars-wheels--ratchet-bindings-gunmetal-p-13845.html
View attachment 8
If you want to build a Mountainboard with a stiff deck, I would only cut the slits on the side.
We want to try out how our cardboard model will perform in real world, so I will continue and finish the job.
Works a treat!
lets fit the box to the deck! I pre-drilled some 2mm pilot holes in the edges of the box to transfer the hole position to the deck accurately. A Trampa under board vinyl sticker sits waiting to be attached to this beauty.
View attachment 5
http://www.trampaboards.com/580mm-vinyl-stickers--under-board-trampa-vinyls-p-261.html
This is the best method to ad in nice stainless threads into your deck. We want M4 repair threads!
I use a drop of epoxy glue to secure them in the deck. Do not apply the grip tape untill you have finished off your entire board! Its the last thing to do!
Now we want to close off the ends of the box and ad in a silicone membrane against dust and water.
We cut up a 16 Ply 35° long to show a section of the deck-battery-box assembly.
God forgive us!
I use the following materials to continue my work on the box and the battery pack.
You can buy everything here: https://www.modulor.de/en/3
Great shop having almost everything you can imagine.
I use the double side sticky 2mm neoprene foam to stick the l-profile to the deck. Sticks to your board like xxxx to a blanket! That 10mm neoprene strip is glued with Pattex.
That's it for today. Next time I will show you how to perfectly seal off your motor.
Frank
This would allow the entire battery to flex with the enclosure as well. I'd imagine this would allow the battery & enclosure could be placed on even sexier flexier 
It may be more wise to series each battery segment, then 
