battery is throwing sparks from the charging cord

If you don't master the crimping, or don't have a decent crimper to use, then adding solder to the crimp would be the way to go. Once half ass crimped, but small enough to fit into the housing still, some solder will strengthen it.

Main thing is to get the crimp fairly compact, a big flattened crimp won't fit in the housing right.
 
Learning to solder and learning to put together the different connectors is all part of the learning process. It is also the most expensive time. I had to buy three types of crimpers. The 8 ton hydraulic crimpers , the Tri crimp and the Crimp tool for D-Sub Jst sm connectors There are times when using a butane mini-torch is easier than soldering also. Crimping and soldering may seem like overkill but its not and my mean the difference between cruising home on battery power or pedaling home.
 
i did it! it works!

and i hooked the batteries back up to the controller and tested the throttle and it all works fine.

i can not thank you enough - y'all made it super easy for me from troubleshooting to diagnosis and repair.
great advice all around - i am ever so grateful :D

i went with crimp only as i really haven't gotten the soldering down enough where i know i could make a clean joint. crimping was no problem - i followed dogman's article and have the same crimping tool he used in the article. it was no problem. i did only fold the wires over once and on themselves rather than over the insulation as the tight barrels on the 30 amp contacts would barely fit over the 18 and 20 gauge wires much less their insulation.

i didn't replace the battery wiring at this point only because i didn't have the proper battery connectors for the wiring inside the battery pack, and i was anxious to get it working again and to make sure the controller was still ok. that's a project i can do down the line a bit.

now that my battery issue is resolved, i'd like to explore this forum some more as it has proved to be so useful for a noob like me and there are a few other things i need to address with my bike. my next priority is a proper kickstand, so i need to determine which is the appropriate board in this forum to consult and solicit input, and i also have a question regarding the torque washer(s) for the front hub motors - wether there should be two or if one is ok.

this has been a great learning experience for me. i hope i'll be able to help out and contribute someday as y'all have for me...


charger glowing green plugged in to batteries via newly installed anderson power poles

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fried RCA plug from the battery

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unmelted side of RCA plug

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the wiring was ok inside fried RCA

gQyOBaDl.jpg
 
Hi y'all. So, the connectors still work great, but the battery has since deteriorated at an accelerated pace. I'd like to replace the three SLA battery pack with something lighter, possibly LiFePo4, though it may be too expensive for me, regardless, I'm not sure what my controller is rated for or how to find the equivalent replacement since I don't have the original papers/info on the motor kit or if I even need that to determine which battery pack to get. Is it going to be something very specific or can I choose from a range of power/amp hours, etc.?

Thanks for reading and your input would be much appreciated!

Jaime
 
999zip999 said:
I guess this is 36v system now. You might be able to go 48v if your controller can support it. That would wake it up.

Is there any way to determine that without documentation like with my multimeter? If so, I'm not sure how to go about it.
 
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