BBS02 500w with 48v battery?

[tomjasz]

Look, it IS a fact that adding a 52T chainring and an 11T will gain some speed. Been there, done that. But essentially you are still limited. And riding around in 52T X 11T WILL stress the crap out of his motor. You will NEVER see 30MPH with a 52T with a BBS02 500W. An odd motor anyway. I guess sold to meet CA regulations. MAYBE with a 48V 750W but that's even a stretch. For the reasons GMAN expounds on.

Want 30 or more, BBSHD 48V, better yet 52V. I have them all. I can squeeze 23MPH out of a 350W, 25 out of 500W, but watch the heat and and motor stress.

BTW the BBSHD will squeak out 33MPH with a 42TX13T. No wind calm day on the flats.

More speed more power. ONLY USE 52T once you've gotten up to speed and that motor is humming at max RPM.

36V is just whimpy, But so are your brakes over 20MPH. I ran my bike through the MSF(Motorcycle Safety Foundation) course. You're messing with your life when it comes to panic braking over 20. Want power buy a bigger motor and battery. You bought a nice agile low speed bike. Enjoy it or spend it.

I got frustrated by the superfluous questions and the lack of understanding coupled with unrealistic expectations.

 

[oscholz]

Thanks Tom!
I appreciate your insight, and appreciated it before.
Noobs don't know enough to know that their questions are superfluous or their expectations unrealistic. We rely on the experienced crowd to calmly explain things, backed by scientific facts (and formulas if possible) and most of all experience. Thanks for providing that!
I never really expected that the 52T chain ring would take me to over 30mph. I don't really need that either. Honestly, I was hoping for 28mph without having to pedal quite as hard/fast as I have to pedal at 26mph with the 46T chain ring today. That's all I'm looking for.
Based on your and other feedback, my next motor will definitely be a BBSHD with a 52v battery with lots of amp hours.
I have ridden the Stealth Bomber, and I get uncomfortable over 35mph. So I'm not looking to go faster than that.
I like Cruisers, cause the riding position - even if aerodynamically not the best - is so comfortable. And I feel safer, cause I can look around more easily. That's why I went with the Biktrix Stunner. I also looked at the Leisger CD5, which had a couple of advantages over the Stunner, but I didn't want another hub motor, cause I found them unrideable without battery (both the Prodeco Tech Phantom and the Specialized something something I tried).
One question about the 52T chain wheel. What is the normal application for it? I mean, Bafang makes it and sells it as an option for all their motors, no? So when all you guys say NOT to use it, I wonder why Bafang makes something that people think shouldn't be made. I hope this isn't a superfluous question. I really mean it. In the business I work in, when there's a feature that does bad things, we tend to not release it broadly. And if we do, we provide lots of documentation/warnings. I've seen nothing from Bafang on the topic. Not doubting what you are saying. Just wondering.

 

[gman1971]

Wow, what is it about this forum?
I find your aggressive tone uncalled for. Second person reacting like this to a simple question.
I already ordered the chain ring, and I'll report back here if I reach faster than 26mph top speeds with it or not. I still think the logic of a larger chain ring holds up, since in the same situation on my mountain bike, I switch the front gear to a larger chain ring, I go faster. Same position on the bike, same everything. Yeah, I have to apply more power. So maybe the motor isn't capable of that. But I'm also pedaling along with the bike. So I imagine I'll go a little faster. But imagining things doesn't count. Results do. So we'll see.

I am not using an aggressive tone, sorry if you read into that like that... I am simply stating that once you are aerodynamically drag limited nothing but adding more power will change that. If you are not at that level then you might gain 2-3 more mph, due to not being at your real top speed.

So what gearing are you achieving this 26mph? 11T-48T?

A 26-28mph top end sounds about right compared to my older GNG with 1200-1500 watts max power. You might get up to 30 mph if you are doing 1500+ watts; I am doing bursts of 2300 watts on my eBike and maxes out at 32mph in the same straight patch of road; and I have 4 more gears left to go (7,8,9 and 10). Shifting to any of those I get lower speed.

G.

 

[oscholz]

Are you saying you get the highest top speed in something lower than your top gear? Or am I reading that wrong?

 

[oscholz]

Oh, and today my top speed of about 26.5 mph is with a 44 or 46T front and in 7th out of 7 in the rear. I don't know how many teeth the rear has. I think 11.

 

[gman1971]

So, let me ask you this, isn't the concept of POWER a scientific term? There is plenty of information about power on the web; loads of textbooks to read... or just because I didn't make you feel warm and fluffy with my initial response you just didn't accept it?

If you're topping out at 26mph with pedaling already then it sounds to me you're going to run a massive amount of amps through the controller and motor windings just for nothing but potentially extracting 1-2 more mph and generate a lot of heat in the process... If you want to get to 30mph then get a 48V or a 52V pack (as in, get more power) and put back the 44T chainring.

Again, listen to Tom; you will burn things and/or things will start to snap/break too if you overgear the BBS02 (well, or any motor) also by sticking a 52T chainring your bike will be useless to pedal uphill without any power assist... again, I cruise effortlessly at 30-32mph without any human pedaling b/c my crank is spinning at 160 RPM, and the motor 6 times that... the motor temp gets barely above ambient... my controller is capable of 50 amp burst, 40 amp continuous and the motor/gearbox looks like can probably handle in excess of 4 or 5 kW... I cruise at 30-32 mph using ~1500-1800 Watts... I've gone as fast as 43 mph with a bit of downhill.

G.

Thanks Tom!
I appreciate your insight, and appreciated it before.
Noobs don't know enough to know that their questions are superfluous or their expectations unrealistic. We rely on the experienced crowd to calmly explain things, backed by scientific facts (and formulas if possible) and most of all experience. Thanks for providing that!
I never really expected that the 52T chain ring would take me to over 30mph. I don't really need that either. Honestly, I was hoping for 28mph without having to pedal quite as hard/fast as I have to pedal at 26mph with the 46T chain ring today. That's all I'm looking for.
Based on your and other feedback, my next motor will definitely be a BBSHD with a 52v battery with lots of amp hours.
I have ridden the Stealth Bomber, and I get uncomfortable over 35mph. So I'm not looking to go faster than that.
I like Cruisers, cause the riding position - even if aerodynamically not the best - is so comfortable. And I feel safer, cause I can look around more easily. That's why I went with the Biktrix Stunner. I also looked at the Leisger CD5, which had a couple of advantages over the Stunner, but I didn't want another hub motor, cause I found them unrideable without battery (both the Prodeco Tech Phantom and the Specialized something something I tried).
One question about the 52T chain wheel. What is the normal application for it? I mean, Bafang makes it and sells it as an option for all their motors, no? So when all you guys say NOT to use it, I wonder why Bafang makes something that people think shouldn't be made. I hope this isn't a superfluous question. I really mean it. In the business I work in, when there's a feature that does bad things, we tend to not release it broadly. And if we do, we provide lots of documentation/warnings. I've seen nothing from Bafang on the topic. Not doubting what you are saying. Just wondering.

 

[gman1971]

Are you saying you get the highest top speed in something lower than your top gear? Or am I reading that wrong?

Yes, I get my top speed 30-32mph in 6th gear, out of 10 (I only use my 11T for super long downhills, which is never, basically), so you read that right.

This also means if I wanted to go any faster I need to stick in there a higher voltage battery pack. (I run 48V 12S LiPo) if I put a 72V 18S lipo pack my bike will probably do 45 mph top speed in flats.

G.

 

[gman1971]

Oh, and today my top speed of about 26.5 mph is with a 44 or 46T front and in 7th out of 7 in the rear. I don't know how many teeth the rear has. I think 11.

I would count them, and if it isn't an 11T then you should look into getting one of those before changing the chainring. Some 7spd don't have an 11T as last cog;

G.

 

[Brentis]

The best way to get increase speed is gearing. The larger the chainring and smaller the rear cassette, more speed you'll get but proportionally lower torque too. If you do put a larger chainring on the front, you need to make sure that when you ride, you start off with the lowest gear in the rear and work your way up to the highest gear. Starting off with the highest gear will put a lot of strain on the motor.

Sorry but this is not true; and I don't know why on Earth this myth of bigger chainring = higher top speed keeps perpetuated. Your absolute top speed is ultimately limited by the amount of power that your motor can deliver, period. If you want to go faster without adding more power then you'll need to reduce your aerodynamic drag, not changing chainrings... if your top speed is already 30, then its 30, wether you achieve that with a 48-17T or a 44-13T... My bike tops out at 32 mph on 48-15T, shifting to 48-13T or 48-11T actually makes me go SLOWER... so if you want a gutless middrive, then by all means, get a 80T chainring.

Gearing all it does is trades RPM for torque, or the other way around; and power is the ability to deliver torque at any given RPM. There is no magic in a 60T chainring that will gain you an extra 30 mph top speed: if your top speed is already 30 mph, no amount of chainring teeth in the world are going to change that; if you want more top speed get a higher voltage battery (as in, get more POWER) or reduce your aerodynamic drag. (as in, become thinner, use thinner wheels, use a recumbent bike...etc)

Gearing allows the motor powerband to match your current drivetrain rotational RPMs... thats all gearing does. Gearing != perpetual motion machine.

G.

Have to disagree with you. A larger chain ring does equate to a higher top speed, less torque.
Though I'm in agreement that a 500w cruiser bike will not benefit from a 52t ring. Nor is he going to achieve 30mph without stressing the system to far.
That's because he is aerodynamic limited not power limited. Current HPV record is 86mph and I can guarantee you they are not running a 44t, 48t even 52t. They would be lucky to produce 500w continuous for their two way run.
All I'm trying to point out is that aero plays a much more significant role than power and the proper gearing will allow you to achieve your maximum potential.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJ4JuUFLJkg
This seems to show that a larger chain ring (ok, comically large) does increase top speed. There are a bunch of other videos around high speed bicycles, with larger front chain rings.
This also seems true given the fact that in a higher gear you go faster, and higher gears have bigger front chain rings, paired with smaller rear rings.
It's a sub $20 test for me. I'll report back here in a few days what I find.
I realize I'll be giving up a little torque. I'm ok with that, given that I don't need the lower gears for much anyway, other than accelerating from a complete stop.

Like Chalo would say to me, a load of hogwash... read upon power. (Like I had to read about chain stretch and get clued in) If you are already aerodynamically drag limited, no amount of chainring teeth is going to increase top speed; but since at the moment you don't seem to understand the concept of aerodynamically drag limited then you won't understand what I am talking about. A 1-2 mph increase in top speed due to gearing is because the motor has more power in that part of the RPM power band, so it will pull the gear, or because the headwind is less, a couple mph difference can have a huge difference in top speed; and either one of those are still bound by the you need MORE POWER laws of physics. Once you're past your top speed, a higher chainring all will do is make you SLOWER... or you just think you've discovered the perpetual motion machine?, you just keep adding bigger chainrings and bike just goes infinitely faster? Wow, man, make sure you patent that idea.

So, don't try to claim statements like that, misleading people into believing what is simply NOT TRUE, and just because you saw a video on the internet? haha, must be true, you saw it. Let me reiterate, AGAIN, if you are NOT aerodynamically limited changing gearing will get your MAX SPEED closer to your absolute TOP SPEED. If you want more TOP SPEED then you need power (or be more efficient at using the one you have (and changing a chainring is NOT either one of those) its as simple as that.

G.

If there was one person I would not put words into the mouth of, it would be Chalo.

.......
Also, nobody told me up front that I shouldn't keep the bike in 7th gear. I've owned a hub motor ebike without PAS before, and there it didn't matter what gear I was in. Now that you have explained it, it's completely logical that it isn't a good idea to keep the bike in 7th gear all the time. .........t?

I was going to help explain and clarify some of the points here,.......
.....but that comment has made me realise that it's probably wasted effort !

Wow, what is it about this forum?
I find your aggressive tone uncalled for. Second person reacting like this to a simple question.
I already ordered the chain ring, and I'll report back here if I reach faster than 26mph top speeds with it or not. I still think the logic of a larger chain ring holds up, since in the same situation on my mountain bike, I switch the front gear to a larger chain ring, I go faster. Same position on the bike, same everything. Yeah, I have to apply more power. So maybe the motor isn't capable of that. But I'm also pedaling along with the bike. So I imagine I'll go a little faster. But imagining things doesn't count. Results do. So we'll see.

I am not using an aggressive tone, sorry if you read into that like that...

G.

Not to stir up more trouble, but I read you as aggressive.
When posting writings to a forum like this, using all capitals on a word is represented as SHOUTING or YELLING it.
Many of your posts to him, an admitted newb, trying to learn are full of you yelling. It came across as aggressive and condescending to me and at least one other. Some of us had no idea of a volt vs. an amp let alone gearing, aerodynamics, power requirements when we first fell in love with ebikes. I was one and continue to learn what others consider basic 8 years in. Cut an under educated passionate ebike brother some slack. Though as linked above you weren't the only one being aggressive with a newb.
Once called out on it at least your changed that tactic. THANK YOU.
See, how does that last sentence read, appreciative or aggressive? Watch your caps lock, unless you intend it.

Best of luck oscholz.
As pointed out you are likely aero limited on your current motor, bike combo.
I think an upgrade to the BBSHD is what you need and would enjoy the most. You will still have to shift it like a traditional manual tranny, but it has the power and thermal mass to be more forgiving if you miss a shift or forget. It would allow you to achieve your desired 30mph at your current brick level of aerodynamics.
All the best.

 

[gman1971]

Holy smokes, people just pick on the wrong parts of my posts. What part of aero didn't you read upon my post? Of course aero plays a huge role, in fact, its all about aero. So, going back to your verbal disagreement statement, well you are disagreeing with the laws of physics, not me... I really don't mind if you so chose to believe the sky is green, or orange... Once again, what you state will only be true If you are NOT already aero limited, that's why most modern bikes have gearing; however, if you are aero limited then its just not possible; again, please read upon power. And like I also said on earlier posts, gearing is a means to trade RPM into torque, and the other way around. You are just repeating what I already stated; torque is only one of the two factors in power, torque alone doesn't get you anything, you need torque and RPM to have power. Your post is basically backing everything I said. I am not understanding why do you disagree when your response clearly shows you're agreeing with what I am saying.

I am not aggressive, I tend to get really passionate on things b/c I really think this ebike stuff is really cool... again; its a misconception that higher top speed can be achieved with gearing; it is just a half truth. Sure, you will get faster until you are aero limited, I've already said that on previous posts.

FYI, I am reaching my top speed with a 48-17T setup, if I shift up to a 48-15T the speed remains about the same, but CA shows an increased amp draw; if I shift up to the 13T I slow down 2 mph, and the amp readings peg to max; and then if I shift to the 11T cog I slow down even further, almost 6 mph, while I am pegged to 2200 watts... so care to explain that? wouldn't that be equivalent of putting a bigger chainring... right? wouldn't it? Yet my speed isn't magically going faster, otherwise it will be as simple as putting a 1000T chainrings and cruising at Mach 1.2 on 500 milliwatts.

Chalo called me up on my BS, and I was the first person to acknowledge I made a mistake; there is absolutely nothing wrong with being wrong... so I didn't know something enough, and I made a fool out of myself, big whoop... its called learning.... I read upon the links Chalo provided and learned something, rather than getting worked up about someone calling my BS instead of "making me feel warm and fluffy" thus perpetuating my ignorance. I was clued in and I accept it.

Caps to me are more like emphasizing something, I see it all the time on posts that are trying to explain things; if I wanted to yell I would use a size 127 font... I have no interest in pissing anyone off, so sorry if it came out that way.

And to finish this, if you want to go faster, you need more power; that is not something I am making up or something that can be debated like you are suggesting, it is the laws of physics. You can deny it, but it doesn't make it any less true.

G.

Have to disagree with you. A larger chain ring does equate to a higher top speed, less torque.
Though I'm in agreement that a 500w cruiser bike will not benefit from a 52t ring. Nor is he going to achieve 30mph without stressing the system to far.
That's because he is aerodynamic limited not power limited. Current HPV record is 86mph and I can guarantee you they are not running a 44t, 48t even 52t. They would be lucky to produce 500w continuous for their two way run.
All I'm trying to point out is that aero plays a much more significant role than power and the proper gearing will allow you to achieve your maximum potential.



If there was one person I would not put words into the mouth of, it would be Chalo.


Not to stir up more trouble, but I read you as aggressive.
When posting writings to a forum like this, using all capitals on a word is represented as SHOUTING or YELLING it.
Many of your posts to him, an admitted newb, trying to learn are full of you yelling. It came across as aggressive and condescending to me and at least one other. Some of us had no idea of a volt vs. an amp let alone gearing, aerodynamics, power requirements when we first fell in love with ebikes. I was one and continue to learn what others consider basic 8 years in. Cut an under educated passionate ebike brother some slack. Though as linked above you weren't the only one being aggressive with a newb.
Once called out on it at least your changed that tactic. THANK YOU.
See, how does that last sentence read, appreciative or aggressive? Watch your caps lock, unless you intend it.

Best of luck oscholz.
As pointed out you are likely aero limited on your current motor, bike combo.
I think an upgrade to the BBSHD is what you need and would enjoy the most. You will still have to shift it like a traditional manual tranny, but it has the power and thermal mass to be more forgiving if you miss a shift or forget. It would allow you to achieve your desired 30mph at your current brick level of aerodynamics.
All the best.

 

[runnermj]

This has been a great thread. I do have a question from a complete newbie, please go easy on me. Does a 52/14 at 90 rpm stress the motor more than a 42/11 at 90 rpm? Both have similar gear ratios.

 

[gman1971]

This has been a great thread. I do have a question from a complete newbie, please go easy on me. Does a 52/14 at 90 rpm stress the motor more than a 42/11 at 90 rpm? Both have similar gear ratios.

One reason I could think (which I did on my bike BTW) for increasing the chainring size is to allow more RPM instead of more torque through the chain, well, that's if your motor can deliver the RPM, of course, you can only do what your mechanical setup can deliver; at any rate, by doing that the chain will thank you (as in, last longer). 42/11 = 3.81 , 52/14 = 3.71; So if you take the system as a whole then it will be about 2-3% difference in gearing in the end, not much; BUT... the real trick of this is that the force going through the chain is now reduced by 20%!!, yep a 20% reduction in chain destroying force... plus the fact that now it has 3 more teeth engaging the chain; its a win win, you have less force and more contact surface. However, this is also why the 52T chainring can be bad news if you ever want to ride your bike uphill (I'll explain that later on post). So first the good news is that the 52T chainring is only half the picture, and since you are now using the 14T sprocket, that 14T has 22% more leverage over the wheel than the 11T did, so you'll come ahead with some extra torque at the wheels (b/c the sprocket/freewheel hub itself will do the RPM to torque multiplication, and not the crank, thus the chain, so your chain won't be angry. Like I said, this can mean bad news for non-motorized use b/c the problem you are faced now with is that you'll need a 20% 1st gear to make up for the 20% larger chainring torque loss. So if you are looking for a 1:1 crank/sprocket ratio then you're talking using a 52T rear cog... that is a seriously big rear cog and not sure if you can even fit that thing in there... This is the very reason why I went with the Cyclone and a 3-chainring crank; I can ride my bike motorized in 48T at high RPM and high speeds thus prolonging my chain life and if I ever need to pedal uphill b/c motor fails, battery dies, I lose my right arm/hand, etc, I have a 32T chainring with a 36T sprocket that would allow me to pedal my way up any hill, even while towing stuff. But I also use the 32T chainring while on power for towing without stressing the motor out.

G.

 

[gman1971]

double post.

 

[tomjasz]

This has been a great thread. I do have a question from a complete newbie, please go easy on me. Does a 52/14 at 90 rpm stress the motor more than a 42/11 at 90 rpm? Both have similar gear ratios.

The big reveal is when you run a watt meter. At least for a BBSseries. Try it, you may be surprised by the results!

 

[runnermj]

Thanks GMAN and Tom. GMAN, I don't need a 1:1 ratio as all of my rides are commuting. Here's the set up: Surly LHT, BBSHD, 5PAS, 52v 13.5ah battery, Luna 42 chainring, 10 speed 11-28 cassette. Currently, my 16 mile commute is spent in gears 11,12,13,14,15, 11t on the flats at 28-30 mph barely pedaling, 15t on the hills at 20 mph. I'm not using the 17,19,21,24,28, rear. Would I be better off with a 50-52 chainring so that I spend most of the time in the 13-21 rear and still have room for the extremes on either end?
Tom, are you saying that I should expect a higher watt usage with the larger chainring even though the gear ratio and the RPM's are the same? Wish I could test this, but I don't have the set up.
Thanks for the feedback.

 

[tomjasz]

I don't know yet. I know how the BBS01 and 02 behaved. I haven't ridden the HD enough. Winter in MN. I ride but have no interest in data on a 20F day. The cold affects packs dramatically and any numbers just won't make sense. Top speed can be affected by 30% in the cold.

I think it's a mistake to not evaluate a pack and motor performance with at least a wattmeter. How else to evaluate. All the gibberish here is just that without values to review. I just got a second CA 3 and will look at both BBSHD's come spring. That said I don't see the point in running a 52T given my first days ride with 32mph 42Tx13T. It'll be a while before we even see a 52T option. I'm busy building a snow bike 31tx22t for late winter giggles.

But if there are any similarities 52T is a watt sucker if not managed well. I found I did far more shifting with a 52T. I'm not versed enough to explain or perhaps even understand. Old, slow, and happy with my rides.

 

[gman1971]

Thanks GMAN and Tom. GMAN, I don't need a 1:1 ratio as all of my rides are commuting. Here's the set up: Surly LHT, BBSHD, 5PAS, 52v 13.5ah battery, Luna 42 chainring, 10 speed 11-28 cassette. Currently, my 16 mile commute is spent in gears 11,12,13,14,15, 11t on the flats at 28-30 mph barely pedaling, 15t on the hills at 20 mph. I'm not using the 17,19,21,24,28, rear. Would I be better off with a 50-52 chainring so that I spend most of the time in the 13-21 rear and still have room for the extremes on either end?
Tom, are you saying that I should expect a higher watt usage with the larger chainring even though the gear ratio and the RPM's are the same? Wish I could test this, but I don't have the set up.
Thanks for the feedback.

The short answer is yes.

If you are not planning on climbing a lot then a 52T will give you a 20% increase in RPM at the crank, so to maintain the same power at the rear wheels so you'll need to downshift to whatever sprocket has 20% more teeth than the sprocket you currently achieve your top speed at. For me I used to achieve cruising at 13T, now between the 44T to a 48T chainring change and removing the RPM limiter of my motor I am cruise in either 17T or 20T, thus leaving 17T, 15T, 13T and 11T left for when I go downhill, topping out at 45 mph like I did for example today on 11T at ~44 volts.
You will most likely lose the ability to not pedal along with the bike while on throttle only; I did, but I didn't care much about it, b/c when I am doing 32 mph on throttle alone my pedal input is negligible... but again, you might care about it so be conscious of that.

Power is conserved (less what you'll lose on efficiency, say 5-10% on motor, and 2-3% on drivetrain (chains are really efficient at transmitting power), so there is no amp penalty for running a higher chainring if you maintain the same speed with the correct gearing. As a matter of fact your amp draw might be lower (as it was for me), and you'll gain higher efficiency out of the motor b/c it will spin 20% faster. The only time your amps will go up is if you use the wrong gear on the back (cassette) when you could easily use a larger one; there is no need to shift to 10th gear when you can easily cruise in 6th gear. My bike has a top speed of ~30-32 mph on throttle alone, and I incur in a considerable amp penalty when running top speed in anything above 6th gear unless I am going slightly downhill, then I can shift up to 7th to get to 36 mph; shifting to anything above 8th on the flats slows me down and pegs the power draw at 2200 watts ( I am running a Cyclone 3000W controller) so that is not recommended, unless you want a space heater in your bike.

G.

 

[gman1971]

Thanks GMAN and Tom. GMAN, I don't need a 1:1 ratio as all of my rides are commuting. Here's the set up: Surly LHT, BBSHD, 5PAS, 52v 13.5ah battery, Luna 42 chainring, 10 speed 11-28 cassette. Currently, my 16 mile commute is spent in gears 11,12,13,14,15, 11t on the flats at 28-30 mph barely pedaling, 15t on the hills at 20 mph. I'm not using the 17,19,21,24,28, rear. Would I be better off with a 50-52 chainring so that I spend most of the time in the 13-21 rear and still have room for the extremes on either end?
Tom, are you saying that I should expect a higher watt usage with the larger chainring even though the gear ratio and the RPM's are the same? Wish I could test this, but I don't have the set up.
Thanks for the feedback.

EDIT-

I would say no, and thanks to Tom for stating something on the Cyclone 3000W kit thread that applies here.

So, Tom kinda pointed it out that the BBS02 can't rev very high, so b/c of that I wouldn't go with a 52T b/c if you can't spin 20% faster to make up for the loss of 20% torque. You'll be pegging amps to the max (as my original edit stated)

G.

 

[tomjasz]

52T will work but within strict parameters IME. Can't wait to beat theBBSHD with one, but with a temp gauge and watt meter...

 

[gman1971]

52T will work but within strict parameters IME. Can't wait to beat theBBSHD with one, but with a temp gauge and watt meter...

Then get a Cyclone 3000W and ditch the temp sensor... ride it like you stole it!!

G.

 

[tomjasz]

NOT EVEN REMOTELY interested. I may build one just because I can, and then flip it. I'm to old for all that speed. I think you guys are goofy depending on bike brakes at the potential speeds, but I enjoy the heck out of reading and learning. Thanks for letting me interject into your thread!

 

[gman1971]

NOT EVEN REMOTELY interested. I may build one just because I can, and then flip it. I'm to old for all that speed. I think you guys are goofy depending on bike brakes at the potential speeds, but I enjoy the heck out of reading and learning. Thanks for letting me interject into your thread!

LOL!!!, easy easy Tom... but If that helps I am not as young as I used to be (right?)... I am running decent brakes on my bike with 180mm rotors front and back. Stopping power is fairly good; I avoid doing dumb things, but that comes with age; I could also boost the Cyclone up to 72V and run 45+mph and ride it like a hooligan, but I am not interested in dying either. 30mph is perfect for cruising speed for commute; I have a temp sensor b/c my old GNG would overheated if I pushed it too hard; but the Cyclone at 30mph on 1500watts? nah, it just barely gets warm...

G.

 

[tomjasz]

Ok, ok. I dislike Lipo too, but again, I enjoy all builds and respect ALL choices. Heck I even like some Packer fans.

 

[gman1971]

Ok, ok. I dislike Lipo too, but again, I enjoy all builds and respect ALL choices. Heck I even like some Packer fans.

Packers huh... LOL... nice! I am more of a soccer guy... so hope that doesn't disappoint as much as LiPos with 4500 watts...

G.

 

[tomjasz]

Ok, ok. I dislike Lipo too, but again, I enjoy all builds and respect ALL choices. Heck I even like some Packer fans.

Packers huh... LOL... nice! I am more of a soccer guy... so hope that doesn't disappoint as much as LiPos with 4500 watts...

G.

I like real football better too.