BE-Bike - The project starts NOW - Turnigy 130KV Brushless

[Byte]

12mm are tough, there isn't much out there. I have an Astro and it's 3/8, plenty of choices for me...sorry

You could get the shaft turned down

Hmm... that's actually a good idea but I prefer to drill out the bore.


I've also been looking at stainless steel gears, they should also hold up the power imo. But... I never saw a E-Bike with gears. Why is this?
If I use gears I have the same problem as with the chain: I only got 3-4mm of hub where the set screw comes in. Do you guys think this is enough to hold up the power?

 

[Hillhater]

Have you considered having the 12mm motor shaft reduced to a more convenient size( 10mm or 3/8" ) where the sprocket fits ?
Maybe then you will have more choices and less problems.

 

[Miles]

Metric version has a 22mm diam. boss - that gets you to 5mm: https://sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail.asp?Opener=Group&PartID=30715&GroupID=649

 

[Byte]

Metric version has a 22mm diam. boss - that gets you to 5mm: https://sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail.asp?Opener=Group&PartID=30715&GroupID=649

Thank you Miles! 5mm should handle the power.


@Hillhater: Yes but I prefer drilling out the bore of the sprocket.

 

[Byte]

Update...


I painted the bike last week. As I already posted before: black, green and pink ghehe

It should look like this if the first 2 parts are mounted to each other:

I think most people will find these colors gay and stupid, but as this is a BIRTHDAY E-Bike it suits well imo

 

[vanilla ice]

Straight outta 1988.. nice!

 

[Byte]

Straight outta 1988.. nice!

Hehe, yup! I wasn't even born at that time (born in 1993) but I like the colors they used back then

I will try to assemble the bike next week and measure some things. I forgot to add the drawing I made in SketchUp for the motormount a few weeks ago. I didn't draw the sprockets, but there will be a 14T sprocket on the motor, 72T on the 1/2" shaft and the 16T ENO freewheel will be mounted on the other side of the shaft. These parts will be CNC'ed as I'm too lazy to make them myself lol

 

[Byte]

Got my CC ICE HV 160 and Astro Flight servo tester in a few minutes ago. I will solder some 8mm bullets on it tonight and also the 2200uF 63V caps. The ESC is way smaller than I thought it would be.

I also got 16 meters(!) of white braided sleeving and 5 meters of white heatshrink. I'm still waiting on the Magura throttle I bought 2 weeks ago...

 

[etard]

Don't know how I missed this thread, great job so far! I like your mounts, and your paint job. Keep up the good work, you have a great attitude about you, and a bright future I am sure.

 

[etard]

...

 

[ev_nred]

good looking build! your rigth that motor is huge!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Byte]

Hi!

I got some parts in:
- Magura Throttle
- Astroflight servo tester
- Sickbikeparts cranks, freewheel and sprockets

I soldered a lot of stuff last weeks, today I made a movie of the motor running, nothing spectacular:
Click!

As you can see; the first 1/3 part of applying throttle the motor stays in neutral, I still have to fix that. I had a quick look in the manual which says that the transmitter (= magura) has to be calibrated each time you connect the batteries, is this right? Isn't this very annoying?

Sickbikeparts:

 

[AussieJester]

Great to see you have all the gear now! Wont be long we will be watching video of
you hairn' along on the beast!

With regards to the throttle... I used to have the same issue with an older setup, when i went
to the astro servo tester though the throttle had no dead spot. Odd you have it now, anywayz
the fix i used for my first setup, was to simply open the magura throttle and reposition the
gear on the pot, eliminates that 1/3 of a dead spot at the start, and yes you still get full throttle.

KiM

 

[Brushlessboy16]

Try changing the deadband on the esc with the castle link..

i think you already know how to do that

 

[Wheazel]

Interesting project, looking forward to this one in action!
Could you elaborate the usefulness of the capacitors. I am in the same boat with going for the ICE160hv.
Why are the capacitors necessary and what specs are ideal? As big a possible?
I could imagine reduction of tensionspikes is the reason but I dont see how they appear etc.
I have seen posts about that the positioning should be as close to the ESC as possible.

 

[Wheazel]

In the video you use the handlebar throttle together with the ICE160, where did you get that throttle and what other items are required to operate it?
Is the throttle itself basically a servotester with 1-2ms pulsewidth?

 

[recumpence]

You need to change the 160 parameters to "Airplane Fixed Endpoint". This eliminates the need to calibrate every time.


Wheazel,

Yes, the servo tester provides 1-2ms pulse to the ESC for throttle control. You also need a 5v power supply to power up the servo tester. The stock potentiometer is removed and the Magura wires are soldered in place. This setup works very smoothly and accurately.

Matt

 

[Byte]

Interesting project, looking forward to this one in action!
Could you elaborate the usefulness of the capacitors. I am in the same boat with going for the ICE160hv.
Why are the capacitors necessary and what specs are ideal? As big a possible?
I could imagine reduction of tensionspikes is the reason but I dont see how they appear etc.
I have seen posts about that the positioning should be as close to the ESC as possible.

I'm not a tech-kid myself, but Ron van Sommeren explains it really well imo:

Battery wire inductance is the main cause of problem, not wire resistance. The wire-inductance causes spikes on the power input. Long motor wires is not a problem. If you have to use long battery wires, install extra caps on the brushless controller. Reasons, explanation, methods, manuals, suggestions for installing
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523

You're right about the caps should be as close to the ESC as possible, most people advice using low ESR caps.


Regarding the throttle, this is a useful link for you, it helped me making mine, it's from Recumpence: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=12196&start=0 Everything you need is written in that topic.


@AJ, BB and Recumpence; thank you for your input guys! I'll try all the things you said to eliminate the 1/3 dead spot and not to calibrate every time. This forum is so helpful, I love it. Thank you!

 

[shortcircuit911]

very cool project! I'm doing a similar build(same motor but parts not in yet), but my setup will be on a razor e300 scooter. I'm very curious to see how well the esc will hold up. Anyway good luck with everything I will keep checking to see your progress.

 

[katou]

Looks like it's coming along well!

-subscribed!

Katou

 

[Byte]

Little update:

I opened up the Magura throttle as AJ said... long story short: I twisted the pot a few times till the wires broke off (I was thinking like "heh? why can I turn this pot so far?" And a few secs later the pot was loosened from the wires hehe ) I'll fix that soon.

I received my order from SDP:
- #25 Pitch 3 foot chain
- 0.5" Dia. 5.5" Length Stainless steel shaft
- #25 72 teeth spur
- #25 14 teeth pinion
- #25 connecting link
And I also ordered 2 ball bearings at eBay.
$140,-

I also got a new workspace, my grandparents offered this to me. It's not big, but I love it. I also received the cross table you can see in the second picture, it's a heavy thing. Costed me about $130,-

And I received my 7075 aluminium, all pieces are 12mm thick. This stuff was expensive: $80,-

I will start working on the aluminium in a week (I'm busy now).


- Patrick

 

[LI-ghtcycle]

Looks like you are well on your way! Great to see another #25 chain build to give me ideas for my own! :wink:

I'm looking to get away with a single stage reduction however, not sure if this will work or not with the heavy weight I will be pulling, but next will be a compact two stage if the single doesn't work.

Keep us posted!

 

[etard]

Congrats on the workshop space! There are many that don't realize what they have, if even just a garage. Did they also provide you with 3 cases of beer? Gotta love the G parents! Looks like you have some big chunks of Aluminum there, that stuff sure does get expensive. I'm lucky enough to have a supply house near by so I get remnant pieces for a decent price. I'm interested to see what that cross slide drill press can do. :|

 

[Byte]

Congrats on the workshop space! There are many that don't realize what they have, if even just a garage. Did they also provide you with 3 cases of beer? Gotta love the G parents! Looks like you have some big chunks of Aluminum there, that stuff sure does get expensive. I'm lucky enough to have a supply house near by so I get remnant pieces for a decent price. I'm interested to see what that cross slide drill press can do. :|

I bought the cross table just for moving the aluminium so I don't have to re-secure the pieces of alu everytime I need a new hole. It's A LOT more comfortable to work with this cross table, I only have to secure the aluminium part once.

Anyway, after 2 months finally a update! After LOTS of hours of measuring, drilling, dremeling, filing and so on I came to this result. The aluminium 7075 is really strong stuff by the way! It's not finished yet, I need to make 3 pipes from aluminium to secure both pieces of alu with the 3 screws you can see. Also I need to drill out the bore of the small sprocket so it will fit the 12mm motorshaft and ofcourse I need to make something so that it can be mounted on the bike. (But I'm very busy with school, so it could take a while till I get that done)

Both pieces

If you look closely you can see that I left just a little aluminium in the big hole so the bearing won't slip away.

Fitted bearings and mounted the motor

Complete drive unit front side

Complete drive unit back side

Complete drive unit up side

- Patrick

 

[katou]

Is there a plate to connect the motor plate to the plate holding the little cog on the jackshaft?

I'm not sure that the bolts I see will be up to the torsion loads imposed by the chains. Even a thin plate of aluminum like 4-6mm would make a big difference.

Lots of good progress there. For a drill press and a cross-vise no less.

How did you cut the recess for the bearings to fit properly?

Katou