BE-Bike - The project starts NOW - Turnigy 130KV Brushless

[Byte]

Little update... I finally received my new 160HV2, it took CC 3 months to ship it Anyway, I bought some other things too. Got myself a new (front) V-brake, as the old one was just rubbish. Also bought some new chainrings, a new 8-speed cassette so now I got a total ratio of 20:1 in 1st gear. This new ratio will give me a topspeed of 19mph in 1st gear.
This time I will take my time to get everything right, I don't want to blow another 160HV :wink:

Also a HUGE thank you(!) to Danny Mayes! He gave me a bunch of tips, I learned a lot from him. Thanks Danny!

 

[Byte]

Need some help with my 160HV settings. Recumpence, AJ, someone else who runs his 160HV for a long time without problems? Please check the picture. Things I'm not sure about:
- Throttle response? Low, medium, high, custom?
- Motor start power? Low, right?
- Motor timing???
- PWM Rate?

 

[recumpence]

It all looks good except you want to move from "auto lipo" to a proper LV cutoff. For 12s, I like 42 volts. Auto lipo will be a pain to use.

Matt

 

[Byte]

Thank you for your reply Matt. I will adjust the LiPo setting as you said. Just double checking (don't want to blow up another ESC): are you sure about the PWM rate? I thought it was a higher value, but I'm not 100% sure how much exactly.

 

[recumpence]

For an outrunner, you want the lowest PWM possible. In fact, depending on the software you have, there may be an "Outrunner" setting as well. I think that setting drops the PWM to 8khz.

Matt

 

[Byte]

Thank you Matt! Did a first testrun today, unloaded.
Ripple voltage max: 0.14V
Watt max: 349
Ampere max: 8.8

All seems good, isn't it? Though 349Watt is high imo, unloaded, but it's a cheap Turnigy motor hehe

 

[Byte]

G'day G'day! What a beautiful day was this one! Sun is shining again here in the Netherlands and I worked out a lot of little things on my bike. Anyway: I made my first run since about 4 months, and it was AWESOME! I was easy on the throttle because I blew up the previous controller and I don't wanted to let that happen again. (And I was a little bit scarry too hahah, I could feel it has soooo much power!)

I made a ride of about 5 minutes, including full throttle a few times. Temperatures after 5 minutes of running (which are very nice imo):
ESC: 22°C at the beginning, 25°C at the end
Motor: 22°C and was 22°C at the end of the run too

As you can see in the graph, 2500Watt max. and ripple voltage max was 1.03V. The ripple voltage is good, isn't it? (Although I didn't pull so much watt?) Could someone please verify this, so I can make another run tomorrow (with the battery fully charged) and with some gloves on


Danny Mayes, thank you for helping me! He gave me a lot of tips etc. via PM while I was waiting on my new ESC. Without him I would probably blew another controller. Thanks Danny!

 

[etard]

It feels so great when all your hard work finally pays off, huh? Good to see you up and running. Next upgrade: front disk brakes, right?

 

[Byte]

Yes it does! Went for another ride today, it's so much fun with this bike! I'm a coward however with the throttle, it feels like it will launch me in the air and on my ass if I give too much throttle so I'm really easy on that I had a peak of 2700Watts today (I wonder how people get 7+ kw without falling of the bike? lol) and ripple voltage of 0.84V.

After about 10 minutes the chain came off, the 'middle one' (the one from the freewheel to the freewheeling-pedals). This happened because the mounts couldn't hold up, they twisted a little to the right and they also came a bit lower, causing the chain to get off. I re-aligned the whole thing and tensioned the chain again, but after some driving the same occured. (I tightened the screws as hard as I could) How can I solve this? I thought about drilling & tapping 2 extra holes in the mounts and place setscrews in these, those setscrews will be secured on the frame. Will this help to prevent the twisting and lowering of the 'part'? (Part = the whole thing, see pic)

Etard, the next thing will be to get the bike reliable. The new front V-brake I installed a few weeks ago does it's job OK.

 

[etard]

Yeah, I would align everything up perfect and then cordless drill a hole through each mount and into the frame with a small drill bit and then the tapping drill bit, tap it, then just put a bolt through the whole thing. Your frame is steel right?

 

[Byte]

Etard, that was my first thought too but I think the frame isn't thick enough to get a proper thread. (It's steel idd) I already bought the set screws (M6*12mm), they'll be tightened on the frame through the mounts. Should do the job too, right?

 

[Danny Mayes]

Heya Patrick,

Good to hear you are motoring along again brother! let me know how the mods go with keeping that bracket where it should be. I think it all being worked out is just around the corner...

D

 

[Byte]

I didn't post it here on ES yet, but last weekend I realigned the drive unit again. Now with 2 extra set screws and some other kind of gasket between the mounts, it held up for about 10 minutes, the chain became more loose every minute I drove it. But it held up longer than last time and I measured 3666Watt peak (last time 2600W) which is a pleasure to drive

Will try to get the drive unit in position by using a few hose clamps as Danny Mayes adviced me

 

[Byte]

Used the hose clamps but the chain got loose again. However, I'm not sure if it's the chain still stretching because it is new or the drive unit is comming down the frame tube. It feels so solid when mounted and it doesn't look like it slides down.

And my dad wanted to drive the bike... After he came back he had a big smile on his face haha

Another problem are the LiPo's, when under load they sag to 32V (10S LiPo). Highest load they've seen is only 3800Watt.

 

[Byte]

Charged the LiPo's, remounted the drive unit to the bike again (it's really strong, it should be impossible to slide down), wired everything up again and took a few pics. This time I measured the distance between the freewheel and the freewheeling crank: it's 15.95mm. So if the chain gets lose again, I can measure if it's the chain stretching or the drive unit sliding down. Sorry for the blurry pics, they were made with my video camera.

If the weather stays good I'll take it for a run later this day and make an update here on ES.


- Patrick

 

[Byte]

I'm back, chain got lose again. Turned out it's not the chain itself but the drive unit sliding down a few mm. 4080Watt peak

I will try a few things this weekend and see how it turns out. That was it for now...

 

[Ratking]

Hello

I have a suggestion if not mentioned before. It's cheap and ugly, but if you just want to get that egrin you could make a bar between the mount and the triangle that stops the movement of the motor no matter what.
I made a drawing in paint to illustrate what I mean.

 

[kfong]

I use the 2 water bottle mounts for my setup and clamped the mounts to the frame. It will break before it budges. http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=34805

 

[bzhwindtalker]

Same idea here! it would work and be bulletproof

 

[Byte]

Thank you for the advice, I might try the "cheap and ugly" solution as I'm already using my water bottle holes for the battery.

I went for another ride today peaking under 4000Watt. As everybody on the forum said that these are wheelie monsters I thought mine could do this too. But after trying several times the front end didn't want to come up. I thought I might be a coward and was too slow with throttle... After watching at the graph I saw I went from 0 to 100% throttle in 0.5s so that wasn't the reason for not making a wheelie. BUT then I saw the voltage drop under load, from 41V fully charged to 28.5V under load Peak current was only 116A. I don't think there isn't any other reason why my bike doesn't make a wheelie right?

I'm using a 10S2P pack (10Ah) so I need to buy AT LEAST 2 new packs to put them in parallel to get more than 4000Watt/a wheelie out of this bike, am I right?

 

[nieles]

are you sure the 28.5v is not a glitch?

if your pack is really dipping to 28.5v (thats 2.85v per cell) you might want to check all your cells indiviually ( so without the parallel connection) before charging and discharging the pack again.

 

[Byte]

I'm quite sure it is not a glitch. Last time I measured a voltage drop to 31V. But it's still a little bit strange as my battery pack should be capable of delivering 300A continious and the highest peak current it has seen was 116A. (I know they're all overated LiPo's, but a voltage drop this big is a little bit strange imo)

 

[nieles]

the high voltage drop is strange indeed! what brand are they?

if you have one completely dead cell the other voltages are i bit more where they should be.

i have an 2-3 year old turnigy 20c pack (4 5s packs wired 10s2p) and my voltage sags to 35v volts under heavy loading

 

[Byte]

Flightmax (Zippy) 5000mAh 5S 30C. I never noticed a bad cell but I will check the next time. Hmm.. do you maybe know how many amps you were pulling when the voltage sags to 35V?

 

[nieles]

i am at work right now, but when i get home i will see if i can find an old graph from either my cc160 or eagletree