best cranks for 60t chainring?

[mud2005]

So I plan on getting 2 of the splined freewheels from this thread http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=13532&start=360&hilit=splined+freewheel and putting them on a Sram dual drive hub or similar cassette drive hub.
and I want to put a 60t chainring to 16t freewheel on my mountain bike for pedaling cadence of 80 rpm at 23.2 mph
First of all I'm not even sure if the 60t will clear the chainstays, but I'm hoping it will. :|
If it does I need to have a straight chainline.
So I'm ready to buy some new cranks and this chainring http://www.hostelshoppe.com/cgi-bin/readitem.pl?Accessory=1016049820 and I want it to line up with the outer freewheel on the hub.

My question: Whats the best cranks for lining up such a chainline? Has anyone put a 60t sprocket on a crankset and dealt with this issue?
I'm assuming a triple ring crankset would be best and just using the outer ring mount and maybe add some spacers to get it further out if need be. Does that sound right or is there a better way?
I'd hate to order some cranks and find out the chainline is going to be way off.
I have a threaded rear hub with 2 freewheels now so I can get an idea of the chainline, but I dont have any cranks or chainrings. The cranks I did have on this bike were crap and had non-removeable bolts to hold on the chainring so I gave them to a buddy who needed some cheap cranks.
I'm thinking 175mm long 130mm BCD cranks. If anyone has a suggestion of an affordable set of cranks for this application it would be much appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Zoot Katz]

The crank's spindle length is the most critical measurement for getting a proper chain line.
The space between chain rings is the same whether it's double or triple, 110 or 130 BCD, road or mountain crank.

Be careful the 60T chain ring doesn't scrape the chain stay.
You can probably buy a whole bike with a usable crank at a garage sale for less than the cost of a new crank.

 

[mud2005]

The crank's spindle length is the most critical measurement for getting a proper chain line.

I have a 114mm long spindle, if I buy cranks for a smaller spindle say 110mm will the chainring be further over to the right giving me more chainstay clearance?

The space between chain rings is the same whether it's double or triple, 110 or 130 BCD, road or mountain crank.

so if I buy a triple ring or a single ring the chainstay clearance will be the same? I thought it would be more with a triple cause the chainline would be lined up to the middle ring.

 

[mud2005]

here's a set of cranks that look good for only $65 http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CR308Z01-Sugino+Single+Speed+Crank+Arm+Set.aspx but I'm not sure if single speed cranks are a good idea and if so should I get 103mm or 110mm spindle length version? I asked at a LBS nearby and they had no idea what I was talking about.
From looking at the pics of the single and triple version it looks like they put the outer ring on the outside of the spider and for the single it's on the inside, but the arms look the same. It's hard to tell from looking at pics though.

 

[Zoot Katz]

The longer spindle will move the right crank further out from the chainstays.
You can put the chainring on the inside or outside of the spider to adjust the chainline.
A 110mm spindle sounds like it's going to be kind of short.
Have a look at Sheldon Brown's page on BB sizes.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html

 

[mud2005]

The longer spindle will move the right crank further out from the chainstays.
You can put the chainring on the inside or outside of the spider to adjust the chainline.
A 110mm spindle sounds like it's going to be kind of short.

Actually I wasn't talking about the spindle size, I meant you can buy those cranks for either a 103mm or 110mm spindle.
My spindle will be longer than that, I was just wondering if the cranks that are made for a 103mm spindle will move the chainring further out than the cranks made for a 110mm spindle. Hope I explained it better that time. Basically I'm wondering what the difference is in the cranks as they come in 2 versions, one for 103mm and one for 110mm spindle.
I actually plan to buy a 122mm spindle to put the cranks on.

 

[Zoot Katz]

The longer spindle will move the right crank further out from the chainstays.
You can put the chainring on the inside or outside of the spider to adjust the chainline.
A 110mm spindle sounds like it's going to be kind of short.

Actually I wasn't talking about the spindle size, I meant you can buy those cranks for either a 103mm or 110mm spindle.
My spindle will be longer than that, I was just wondering if the cranks that are made for a 103mm spindle will move the chainring further out than the cranks made for a 110mm spindle. Hope I explained it better that time. Basically I'm wondering what the difference is in the cranks as they come in 2 versions, one for 103mm and one for 110mm spindle.
I actually plan to buy a 122mm spindle to put the cranks on.

I really haven't a clue what they mean in their product description.

Scanning the cited article I can't find a spindle shorter than 107mm.

My first guess is a typo on the jensonusa site.
110 or 113 mm spindle would be a more common sort of length.

The bike I just built, with a 62T big ring on a road double spider, required a 129mm spindle. It's a cup-and-cone bearing.
Viewed from the top, the cranks have some curvature in them to help clear the chain stays.
Still I had to peen the right chain stay to get adequate clearance for the outer chain ring.
A lot has to do with your frame and if it was designed using for a "compact" crank.
I had a selection of used cranks and spindles to play with during my second build. That made things easier.
Getting the chain ring clearance took a lot of trial and error before resorting to peening.

Good luck.

 

[mud2005]

Thanks Zoot, I guess I'm going to have to try it out and see what happens.
You may be right about that being a typo, I don't see 103mm for any of their other cranks or bottom brackets
I just realized after looking again that you don't have to choose the spindle length when ordering anyway me doofus
I'm going to go to a bike shop tomorrow and look at some road and mountain bikes and see what the cranks look like.
Maybe I'll put a wanted ad on craigslist and try to get something cheaper.
anyway, thanks for helping, I'll post back when I have something in hand and let you know if it works.

 

[Zoot Katz]

Thanks Zoot, I guess I'm going to have to try it out and see what happens.
You may be right about that being a typo, I don't see 103mm for any of their other cranks or bottom brackets
I just realized after looking again that you don't have to choose the spindle length when ordering anyway me doofus
I'm going to go to a bike shop tomorrow and look at some road and mountain bikes and see what the cranks look like.
Maybe I'll put a wanted ad on craigslist and try to get something cheaper.
anyway, thanks for helping, I'll post back when I have something in hand and let you know if it works.

Put a chain link under your pillow and the bicycle fairies will start guiding free bikes on to your path.
Forty bux at Jenson might not be too bad when you consider dealing with some of the dikheads on craigslist and in bike shops.

Oh yeah, most of my tribulations were caused by having to spread and space the rear triangle because of the wonky centering on the 9C hub motors before they got sorted out by the reputable dealers.

 

[mud2005]

well I talked to my neighbor tonight and he just happened to have a cheap old set of cranks lying around, lucky me
so I put them on my bike and checked the chainline and it's lookin like I can only go about 48t max, so I'm glad I didn't order the 60t.
then I thought about it some more and realized that when I get the sram geared hub 48t will take me to 35mph, plenty fast for me.
I was thinking more about the current setup which is one speed. I need to stop staying up till 4am every night
Is there an award for most pointless topic?
Time to order that damn geared hub! goodbye $$