Mid-drive PAS with stuck or non-existent freewheel/clutch gear

richj8990

100 W
Joined
Jan 21, 2020
Messages
277
Hello everyone,

I've ordered a really, really, really off-brand Chinese mid-drive motor (0 reviews), more of an experiment than anything else, $470 USD including shipping. At least it was on EBay and not Ali Express, right... It may not work at all, it may be fine, who knows. If it doesn't work I'll probably do the CYC X1 Stealth later. The cool thing about this motor is that it comes with 4 (front) chainrings. FOUR!!! Hopefully they are 104 BCD and I can change them later. One of the chainrings has a freewheel attached for the 2nd chain that's also attached to the motor. As I mentioned in a different post, I'd like to use a 24mm Hollowtech spindle instead of Square-Taper because the latter is IMO outdated 20th-century tech that really doesn't need to exist on mountain bikes, and is 10 times harder to work with than Hollowtech.

If the (what looks like 28T) freewheel gear comes off, and it's (probably) 64 BCD, great, I can add it to the Hollowtech triple chainring crankset and use two other chainrings w/o front derailleur, anywhere from 30T to 52T but probably for now 36T/48T. That's a big range advantage over a standard 1x mid-drive for both climbing and faster pavement. Of course I'd turn the motor off when changing over the chain by hand. If the freewheel is integrated into the crankset coming in the mail, then I can't use it with a different crankset. And that's where this question begins: a lot of people online have said that without a freewheel / clutch to turn off the motor, the cranks will always spin even if you quit pedaling, which is very dangerous. They keep saying over and over again that it's a great way to break ankles if the freewheel ring is worn or removed. I have two issues with that theory below. Before that however, I do want to add that on my front hub drive, there is a C - Cruise Control function for the throttle, and offroad it is a bit dangerous because you have to push the off button for two seconds or the hub will keep spinning the wheel even when you want to slow down (for a turn or downhill for example). So yes there is a potential for danger if the motor is still on and the pedals are not being turned by human power. But that's Cruise Control throttle only, it's not PAS.

1. Many, many Bafang BSSxx users have complained that over time, pedaling resistance with the motor off increases. To the point that they have trouble pedaling the bike if the battery is drained or there is some other issue. They say there is a noticeable draggy feel. That I assume means the internal clutch is partially engaged with the nylon drive gear due to wear on either or both of them, and cannot be completely disconnected from each other. But none of them mention that when the motor is on, they quit pedaling and the cranks keep turning. The only time someone with a BSSxx said that (that I have read) was during the 1st generation of the internal controller; it was supposedly a programming glitch that can be fixed either with an updated controller or by wire and laptop. Any comments on this?

2. Some mid-drives, like the Bafang BSSxx, have a throttle. If you twist or thumb on the throttle, the cranks move. If you let it off, the cranks don't move. It's separate from PAS of course. So why would some say that PAS is freewheel-dependent? PAS, whether on a hub-drive or mid-drive, is only there to sense 'something' moving on the bike --- either the crank, an inner chainring, or a rear wheel spoke, depending on where the PAS is attached. If a throttle is used instead on a mid-drive, the motor directly turns the cranks regardless of what the PAS is reading for motion, because throttle and PAS are separate. This particular mid-drive came with two options: throttle only and throttle plus PAS. Throttle only of course does not come with PAS!!! And obviously the cranks don't keep spinning if the throttle is off or no mid-drive could ever have a throttle to begin with. If you have a throttle and no freewheel or clutch, and you let off the throttle, the electric power stops, correct? Why would the cranks keep turning if the throttle is off even if there was no freewheel/clutch, and instead just a normal gear or small chainring instead? Makes no sense. The throttle would turn the inner chainring (and inner chain) regardless of whether there was a freewheel attached or not. The freewheel is simply there to help manually crank the pedals under human power if the electric power is off. The freewheel has nothing to do with turning off the electric power itself. There is an electrical component which initiates that 'off' function, not a mechanical one.

The freewheel or clutch is only there to manually pedal if the motor is off, that's the only conclusion I have after thinking about the first two issues above. Otherwise, the Bafang dudes with partially frozen clutches would be crashing all over the place, and mid-drive throttles could not work correctly, unless some PAS detector was looking directly at the throttle gear driving the cranks, which is redundant. The PAS is only there to sense movement and activate the motor during pedaling. That's all it does. It's not some high-tech NASA invention. The PAS would have no idea if the freewheel were removed on the inner chainring unless that freewheel also had magnets that signaled movement to the PAS sensor.

Correct? Or not.
 
Some behavioral notes; if I'm misunderstanding anything you meant, please let me know:

For a system with no rider's feet on the pedals, like just testing the bike "on the bench", there could still be enough friction in an always-working freewheel or clutch between pedal crankshaft and motor-driven chainrings to allow the motor to backdrive the pedals--but even just putting your hand on a pedal should be able to stop it from turning.

When in-use by a rider with feet on the pedals, if the throttle can force the pedals to turn, then so would the PAS-controlled mode, because the mechanicals don't change between modes. If that isn't what is happening, then they must have a more complicated system than most.

To prevent the pedals from turning when the motor turns (regardless of what commands the motor to turn), there would need to be a freewheel or clutch between the pedal crankshaft and the motor-driven chainring that then drives the chain to the rear wheel. This would prevent the motor from driving the pedals, while still allowing it to drive the chain. This isn't required in a throttle-only system, but for one with a PAS sensor that detects crank rotation, it's a necessity for certain behavioral control reasons.

To have different behavior between throttle and PAS, this FW/clutch would need to be an actuated clutch (similar to that on the AC compressor of a car, for instance) that has an electromechanical device locking the pedal crankshaft to the motor-driven portion when it is in PAS mode, but that unlocks them in throttle mode, allowing the pedals to not be backdriven.

The problem with such a system is that once the PAS mode is started and pedals are moving, the PAS sensor that detects pedal rotation is now being driven by the motor, so the system can never be stopped or slowed by the rider's pedalling, only by some other control (ebrake, etc).

If the system locked the pedals and motor together during throttle mode (so that using the throttle would make the motor turn the pedals as well as the wheel), and freed them during PAS (so the pedals could be used to control and stop motor operation), that would make sense (though I would not want the first part to happen, myself), but not the other way around.
 
I'm still not understanding the function of a freewheel on a chainring.


This is a different kit than what I'm buying but it's very similar. The motor-driven chain is on the outside large chainring. The smaller chainring(s) --- I assume plural rings because this bike still has a front derailleur on it are on the inside, and that 2nd chain of course drives the rear sprockets. When they start up the throttle, notice how both chains are rotating clockwise. The pedals are not really moving at all. If a freewheel is unidirectional, that means it can only go, in this case, clockwise and not counterclockwise. If the crank axle / shaft is common to both the motor-driven and rear cassette-driven chains, then if you don't throttle, and instead pedal only, you are still turning the shaft clockwise. Which turns the motor chainring, which then makes the motor's sprocket turn. How exactly would a freewheel prevent the motor chain from moving during pedal-only if the freewheel is unidirectional and it's already committed to a clockwise direction? I'll just have to see it visually for myself I suppose. How can the freewheel voluntarily 'stick' the motor chainring in place if someone stops throttling? How would it 'know' to stop rotating clockwise and have the rachets engage and stop rotation clockwise?
 
There are usually 2 front freewheels. One for the pedals and one for the motor. If that bike is going to have regenerative braking it can't have a 2nd freewheel at the motor. Most mid drive do have another one inside the plastic gear. It looks like a roller bearing but is actually a roller clutch. It must be installed in the proper direction, and uses lighter lube with no friction modifiers. Hubmotors don't have a clutch between the motor and the wheel at all.
 
. Hubmotors don't have a clutch between the motor and the wheel at all.
True of direct drive (DD) hubs, but most of the geared hubs (except for a few I can think of and two I have) use a ramping-roller clutch or similar in the planetary assembly, so that the motor only drives the wheel when the motor is running faster than the wheel (given the gearing ratio), and if the motor isn't operating then it doesn't have as much drag against bike or the human drivetrain as it would if the motor had to be backdriven thru the planetary gearing set(s).

DD hubs don't usually need them as they have low enough unpowered resistance most people can live with it (until you get into the really big ones), but some of the geared hubs have pretty high resistance without power, if they don't have a working clutch. (you can feel whatever resistance there is in any of the geared hubs when you push the bike backwards or manually spin the wheel in reverse; the forward direction should be very low resistance).

Like these:
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1678145953137.png
 
I'm not a hubmotor guy so I stand corrected. Do they still use a freewheel cassettte too? Or just the one clutch and a normal cassette?

You might look at my thread where I disabled the rear freewheel on my BBSHD.
There was some trolling going on at the start, and it took a couple tries to get it 100% working. It still has both front freewheels so it's not like what you're showing.
 
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Yeah, the hubmotor clutches don't look like the stuff inside the middrives; they serve somewhat different purposes, and in the hubmotors they also are the moutning points for the planetary gears to the motor axle (or shaft), so they're generally a lot larger and heavier, and usually have only the three rollers, vs the more common sprag clutch style roller clutch in some of the middrives (I don't recall what all of them use, some are custom parts for that specific middrive, different for each version in some cases).

The clutches in the geared hubmotors are only for the motor to the casing (shell) so the motor isn't backdriven by the wheel (or pedal drivetrain), so if they are a rear motor (or one otherwise at the receiving end of a pedal/etc drivetrain) then they still have a mounting point for a gear cluster (thread on for some, splined freehub for others). Front (or non-drivetrain) motors don't usually have a mounting point for a gear cluster.

There are some geared hubmotors with a locked (welded, etc) clutch, or built with no clutch, like the Grin Tech GMAC (a redesigned version of the MAC), and somewhere here I have an old Fusin geared hub with no clutch, just the planetaries (and a couple more of the same motor that do have clutches, one of which broke at startup under load). I can't remember the others off the top of my head, but at least one more of them is on the Grin Tech website or in their newsletter pages.


Some people have modified geared hubmotors to use as a middrive, including Crossbreak's where he rebuilt the motor internals to drive the axle as a shaft instead of driving the shell, and then the shell was bolted to the frame.
 
Yeah, the hubmotor clutches don't look like the stuff inside the middrives; they serve somewhat different purposes, and in the hubmotors they also are the moutning points for the planetary gears to the motor axle (or shaft), so they're generally a lot larger and heavier, and usually have only the three rollers, vs the more common sprag clutch style roller clutch in some of the middrives (I don't recall what all of them use, some are custom parts for that specific middrive, different for each version in some cases).

The clutches in the geared hubmotors are only for the motor to the casing (shell) so the motor isn't backdriven by the wheel (or pedal drivetrain), so if they are a rear motor (or one otherwise at the receiving end of a pedal/etc drivetrain) then they still have a mounting point for a gear cluster (thread on for some, splined freehub for others). Front (or non-drivetrain) motors don't usually have a mounting point for a gear cluster.

There are some geared hubmotors with a locked (welded, etc) clutch, or built with no clutch, like the Grin Tech GMAC (a redesigned version of the MAC), and somewhere here I have an old Fusin geared hub with no clutch, just the planetaries (and a couple more of the same motor that do have clutches, one of which broke at startup under load). I can't remember the others off the top of my head, but at least one more of them is on the Grin Tech website or in their newsletter pages.


Some people have modified geared hubmotors to use as a middrive, including Crossbreak's where he rebuilt the motor internals to drive the axle as a shaft instead of driving the shell, and then the shell was bolted to the frame.
The torque RPM factor is completely different. The sprag at the pedals in a mid drive is similar.
 
For now I'm going to use the stock square-tapered crankset that comes with the kit. BTW this crankset monstrosity including 4 chainrings is a whopping 7 lbs because it's all steel. KT V12L (left-side) PAS sensor coming from Amazon later. Just for reference, a $450 USD Shimano XTR Hollowtech II crankset with bottom bracket and one chainring is around 1.5 lbs; $175 will get you the entry-level SLX crankset, chainring, BB for a bit over 2 lbs. I mean...even for an e-bike, 5 lbs is a lot of weight! Later what I'll do is extend the motor a few inches more up the down tube from the cranks (via aluminum or steel plates with 1/4 inch bolt holes) in order to have the 100mm wide hollowtech crankset not hit the motor chain/sprocket. The hollowtech cranks are 10mm too narrow to fit properly for motor / chain sprocket clearance. Then, once the hollowtech crankset is on, I can put a right-side PAS on it, seen below. Bummer is that I'll need to convert everything to waterproof controller, etc. (including the motor's 6-pin hall and 3-pin phase to the 9-pin waterproof motor adapter). I did that for an E-Bikeling controller to Bafang hub drive so I think I can just do it again for this.

Hollowtech right-side big hole PAS

By the way, for mechanical tards like me: the circular metal sensor goes INSIDE of the right-handed bottom bracket bearing. As in the hollowtech bottom brackets have external bearings. You unscrew the right side of the bearing, add the sensor, then screw it back on. Completely different than simply sliding whatever PAS you have on to the left-side of a square tapered bracket. Add the magnets to the smallest chainring or whatever circular thing it can fit to on the chainring spider. Hopefully it will be close enough together to actually work (most of these as you probably know only have a 3-5mm space for sensing the magnets). The hollowtech external bearing itself is almost 10mm and that distance doesn't even include the extra space over to the magnets on the chainring. So this puppy better have a powerful sensor.
 
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