Big speed reduction after installing 3 punture proofing item

[=BicycleRider=]

I don't think so, it seems the downhill performance is reduced, it seems to have rolling resistance when the motor is off, I think.

 

[MadRhino]

But I always thought with more pressure tyres rolled better and needed less energy to move.

Yep, there is always a compromise in puncture resistance improvement. Yet, riding lower pressure is a little compromise, as compared with adding slime and liner. You are adding some friction, but at least you are not adding to weight and moment of inertia. Then, the extra friction can be attenuated by using a tire design that has lower rolling resistance, and a wider rim that will give it good rolling properties with lower pressure.

 

[Alan B]

Flats generally occur more often in the rear. You might try swapping out the front tube to avoid the slime there, and save that tube for the rear later on. If you can get most of the speed back you might tolerate some losses in the rear tire.

 

[amberwolf]

YThere's no way to take slime out once it's in is there?

Sure--it's just messy and time consuming.

Take the valve core out, then fill the tube halfway with water.

Squish it around in there and empty it out.

Repeat a few times, then let the tube dry out.

Easiest way to dry it out is to sit it in the sun, with the tube "twisted" so the valve is on the outside and pointed straight down, so any water remaining drips out. Then the heat from the sun causes the rest to evaporate.

Then you can put the valve core back in, and reinstall it in the tire/wheel, reinflate, and ride.



But unless they used an entire bottle of slime in there I don't imagine the slime did that much to increase the rolling resistance.

 

[MadRhino]

...But unless they used an entire bottle of slime in there I don't imagine the slime did that much to increase the rolling resistance.

Yep, that is what I think they've done. A bike shop did just that to a friend a few years ago. When he complained that his bike was hard to pedal they said: That is the qty that is sold, that is the qty that you've got. The bike ´tech' had figured out the bottle was for a pair of tires. Lucky it doesn't sell it by the gallon.

Then you need to add the weight of the heavy flatproof tube and the liner. Extra tire weight + liquid in the tire are enough to make +75 watt of inertia IMO, and that is a lot off a low power system. The guy who installed triple puncture protection, must be wearing a belt and suspenders to hold his longjohns. :wink:

 

[=BicycleRider=]

Yes they used a whole container in the two tyres, I was surprised because I thought I'd get a mostly full bottle as well but they said they used it all up. It was a big bottle.

Ok I've decided to get new simple inner tubes and puncture resistant tyres instead.


Could I replace my tyres (CST Traveller City Classic 40-622 700x360)
with a 700x35c one?

And will a 700x35/43c inner tube work ok.

Would these tyres be a lot different than those top of the line ones?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pair-of-ANTI-PUNCTURE-Bike-Tyres-700-x-28-32-35-40-47-26-x-1-5-1-75/261744976066?_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D515596f192cd440d9d7f10e70744d4b6%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D261744976066&_trkparms=pageci%253Ae6ae71aa-4425-11e7-93a7-74dbd180f753%257Cparentrq%253A526d718e15c0aa1270f2cb19fff94ae7%257Ciid%253A1

 

[MadRhino]

It will work. I can't know about the tires, since they don't spec anything about them. They look like the same thread as the Marathon, so they should be low rolling resistance.

 

[=BicycleRider=]

Oops actually the old tyre is 700x38C I misread it in the dark some ridges of the numbers were more worn and there was an extra ridge.

Here's something, I took out the inner tube partially to see more and it's a 700x35 one I think, could this be why the speed is down? x38 tyre but x35 inner tube.



Rims seem to be 19mm

 

[d8veh]

The size of the tube won't make a difference. There's a lot of flexibility on tube size - literally. Like I said before, there's also a lot of flexibility on your tyre size too. Unless you have a wide MTB rim, anything from 1" to 2" will be OK or say 23 mm to 53 mm. It would be unusual to find a wide rim on a 700c wheel.

 

[=BicycleRider=]

Ok, thanks.
I suppose I probably, wouldn't want to go below 35 width with an electric bicycle right?

 

[MadRhino]

Right, even 35 is small. Best is to use some wider than you already have.

 

[Chalo]

The 700x35 Panaracer RiBMo is one 35mm tire I'd strongly consider. It's fast, very comfortable, exceptionally puncture resistant, reasonably priced, and it sits taller off the rim than other tires of the same width. In many thousands of cumulative miles on this tire, I've had only a single puncture, from a large construction staple.

I've had consistently excellent experience with the RiBMo in 700x32 and 700x35 sizes on several different bikes. I weigh about 350 pounds without a bike, and I often tow a trailer.

If you want a highly puncture resistant tire with large volume and good ride qualities, check out the Schwalbe Big Apple Plus in 700x50.

 

[=BicycleRider=]

It ended up being a bit better when I oiled the chain. It is quieter as well. I had ridden in the rain before the puncture. It is still quite a bit slower in rolling performance but maybe half of the performance loss in total is better now that the chain is oiled.

How often is everyone oiling the chain?

 

[Chalo]

I oil a chain as soon as I can hear it meshing because the rollers have become dry. It's a quiet grumbling or whirring kind of sound that would be masked by normal city street noise. Maybe every hundred miles or so? It depends a lot on how wet or dusty the conditions have been. Given extreme rain or dust, you should clean and oil the chain after each ride. It should go without saying that your chain will need less lube if you keep the bike out of the rain and dust when you aren't riding it.

If you ever, ever hear chirping or squeaking from your chain, however quiet, it's because you've let it get waaaay too dry.

If you don't think about your chain at all for dozens of rides at a time, you should probably stop into a bike service shop and have it measured for elongation due to wear. You can buy a chain wear indicator cheaply if that appeals to you. You can get a cheapie go/no-go gauge for less than $10, or a graduated one like the Pro Gold gauge for about $20.