BiGH's Ride!

xyster said:
Since mounting the motor, how much harder do you find it to pedal?
Click to expand...

not much - it just feels like i have two panny bags full of bricks :p

and soon i will

LiPO bricks :) hehehhe
 
Hey BigH

How did you go with your rear cluster? Are you using the one that came with the motor? 6 gears?

Does that match your shifter? Looks like a 7 to me?

Is there any room to mount a disc on the other side?


Believe me, you're going to need disc brakes...
 
A disk brake on the front would be easier and should be adequate. My front 6" disk and a front rim brake works good enough to quickly stop from 35mph.
 
Mark_A_W said:
Hey BigH

How did you go with your rear cluster? Are you using the one that came with the motor? 6 gears?

Does that match your shifter? Looks like a 7 to me?

Is there any room to mount a disc on the other side?


Believe me, you're going to need disc brakes...
Click to expand...

yeah i used the stock cluster that came with the bike. thats right it is a 7 speed. not an issue so far.

I'm already seeing the need for beefier breaks. there is a lot of fade because of the extra weight. I never realised how mcuh heavier having a motor on there would be :p (even tho i've ridden a e-bike b4).

I'll prob get new front forks soon enough witha front disc brake and rear just use the normal v-brake.
i'm not going to dispense with my rear brake. i want the 10% extra.

this bike was a friend's (thanks kyle). I have a mountain bike that has disc brakes. I don't have the motor plate (you have to change it for the type B axel that has the screw mount for the disc brake.

ie more cost. I don't think its worthwhile having the rear brake as a disc anyways due to break balance. (unless your bike only has disc brakes and the cost is negligible). I find it easy to lock up the rear at most speeds (i'm used to a road bike which have tiny tiny breaks).

I'd rather put the extra money into bigger front breaks or a new bike.

I did have the idea of going to a flat bar road bike with disc brakes... but after feeling how heavy the setup is going to be, i think I'll stick with the MTB and hard slicks idea...

The specalised nimbus ex support to 100psi regardless;)

edit: xyster beat me too it :p
 
Yep, new forks and a front disc is the obvious solution.

I just picked up my new (to me) XC dualy and with discs it stops in less than half the distance of my heavy V-braked E-bike.

Which Lithiums did you chose? Or are you still deciding?
 
Mark_A_W said:
Yep, new forks and a front disc is the obvious solution.

I just picked up my new (to me) XC dualy and with discs it stops in less than half the distance of my heavy V-braked E-bike.

Which Lithiums did you chose? Or are you still deciding?
Click to expand...

still on brakes: i'm going to do something similar to what lowell did: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1274

if it stops his bike nicely i shouldn't have an issue. :p

for batteries i'm looking at a few sources atm.
First stop is EV tech - looking at 2x their 37v lipos
FAlcon EV are supposted to be getting me a quote, but they're slack AS and i don't think I'll be going through them.
I'm also inquiring through Brett (solar bbq).

Its basically out of Brett and EV tech. - it'll come down to whoever has the better product at the best price. I also have to check weight because the EV tech packs seem to be VERY light (according to their site). Have to check with brett what his packs weigh.

edit: mark ur new bike looks very nice! :)
 
Me too sort of - I have to mount a 203mm disc to my hub motor side plate, and make/buy an adapter for the caliper, before I can fit the motor to my bike.

I'm starting a build thread now :)
 
Mark if you've got a clyte motor talk to brett (solar bbq) about new side plates... I'd also be interested in getting some. They are ordered from crystalyte in China, and can take quite a length of time, but would be good. (i'd like to have some for when i upgrade the bike).

I could also put it on the avanti baracudda i have as my MTB.

I'm now up to 3 bikes... its getting bad. - 1x MTB 1x Road and 1x Electric MTB commuter.
 
Nup, it's "Nine Continents" or somesuch. I think it's the same factory as Brett's GL2 - looks identical in design, just smaller.

I'll ask about side plates - good thinking 99.
 
Mark_A_W said:
Nup, it's "Nine Continents" or somesuch. I think it's the same factory as Brett's GL2 - looks identical in design, just smaller.

I'll ask about side plates - good thinking 99.
Click to expand...

ohhh maxxx!!!!!!
 
Ypedal said:
The controller will run fine without the Ebrakes conected.. ( I have the same problem on just about every bike out there )

There was a guy making ebrake kits that would hook up to regular integrated setups by glueing a sensor on the underside of the brake levers.. but he's been away for a while.

Good stuff !!!! keep the updates coming !!
Click to expand...


You don't need the brake cutouts. I wondered the same thing but have never "revved" the motor while braking in practice. You just don't.

Motorbikes don't have them either.
 
not much of an update but I got the tioga steel panny rack fitted. I won't be able to mount the controller where i originally thought, under the rack, but thats not a major problem. I'll just fit it somewhere else...
maybe on the metal part connected to the rack - ie from the seat post.

my normal daily controller will be the 20a until i mod the 35a, so it should fit no problems.


how hot do these controllers get? can i put them in a panny bag with one of the batteries?

won't b any more updates until the controllers come or i order the batteries.... boy i can't wait! it was perfectly sunny today too! :(:(
 
I see the upgrade bug has bitten already. :lol:

First post:
BiGH said:
- 72v 20a controller (with a 72v 35a controller as a backup)...
Click to expand...

Recent post:
BiGH said:
my normal daily controller will be the 20a until i mod the 35a...
Click to expand...
 
xyster said:
I see the upgrade bug has bitten already. :lol:

First post:
BiGH said:
- 72v 20a controller (with a 72v 35a controller as a backup)...
Click to expand...

Recent post:
BiGH said:
my normal daily controller will be the 20a until i mod the 35a...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

whoops :p sorry the recent post is more correct lol

ok looks like I'll be mounting it behind the seat.
 
BiGH said:
whoops :p sorry the recent post is more correct lol
Click to expand...

Nothin' to be sorry about, the upgrade-bug has bitten most of us, transmitting its upgrade-disease from ebiker-to-ebiker contagiously. :D
 
hey mate, well done on your purchase...it looks bute...can't wait till I can afford mine..hopefully today i will find out if i have to pay for my uni fees in full or can go on feehelp(hex), then i can start buying up big....

I think i might lean back in the Puma direction..:p there is just so many large hills going to work that I am pretty sure the 408 will stall major time. Anyway let me know what the cost of getting the lipo's are? i may go 72v with the puma


Andrew
 
ahh big hills - won't be fun. Well hopefully by the time you've paid ur bills etc i should have my ride up and running, and I can do some vids for everyone. The controllers will arrive this week, then i just have to sort batteries. I might run 3x SLA batteries at 36v for a little while just so i can have the bike going :p since batteries could take a very long time to ship (and even order :p)


i just came back from a ride on the electric bike without power ... thats so um muscle burning :p and about to jump on the windtrainer for the first time in ages!.


whichever way you go you won't be dissapointed. The puma might have issues at 72v Andrew, it might be better to run it at say 48v. this would also lower your battery replacement cost. have a chat to knoxie about what voltages he's sucessfully run the puma at. :) i vaguely remmemmber something about it would burn out over 60v.
 
well its settled, the controllers are coming this week or by early next week. I'm going to get 3x jump start things from the local autostore - which will give me a temporary 36v 18ah SLA pack while i decide on which LiPO batteries to get!

i have no idea how far 36v 18ah will get me on the 408 though. I'm just too excited atm!

i wanna ride it! :twisted:
 
Are they 48v controllers?

Will they have a ~42v cutoff, which means they won't work at 36v?
 
not sure actually! its a 72v controller, not sure what the cutoff is actually.

IF i can't run it at 36v I'll run it at 48v.
 
The Cycle Analyst (ex Drain Brain) has an adjustable LVC function.

http://www.ebikes.ca/drainbrain.shtml

If you are planning to run several different pack voltages/chemistries, this would be an elegant solution to protect your lithium investment, compared to taking apart the controller and swapping resistors each time the pack voltage is changed.


G'day,

-Stevil
 
thanks guys.
I will be running a CA eventually, at the moment funds have taken a beating, so i have to stretch it to get the Li batteries i want.

Just want to have the thing running and working for my commutes to uni.

I'm sick of spending $6-12 AUD on petrol just to drive there and back in heavy traffic.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top