BiGH's Ride!

[xyster]

i think the differnce between riding a 250w bike vs a 1400w bike is just top speed and acceleration. the higher the power, the closer to an electric motorbike you get

The additional power opens up other avenues for me. I can more safely squirt across multiple lanes of traffic without having to wait for just the right opening; bolt up steep hills; cut through 40mph head-wind gusts without slowing down much. With sufficient power, crossing these challenges becomes a pleasure, rather than a drag.

The difference between my 1,000 watt Currie and 2,800 watt X5 is night-and-day. I feel I have to ride the Currie like a bicycle. I ride the X5 how I want to -- often like a bicycle, occasionally like a motorcycle, usually somewhere in between. 250 watts doesn't seem worth it considering the added weight and expense.

 

[Mark_A_W]

I guess it depends whether you want an electric bike - with a little bit of help. Or an electric motorcycle.

My extra weight is less than 8kgs, and even with an extra battery I'm hoping to keep it below 10kgs.

Even with this weight it feels like a truck, not a bicycle.

 

[BiGH]

I guess it depends whether you want an electric bike - with a little bit of help. Or an electric motorcycle.

My extra weight is less than 8kgs, and even with an extra battery I'm hoping to keep it below 10kgs.

Even with this weight it feels like a truck, not a bicycle.

mine is 8kg already - thats just the motor

each SLA battery is 5kg that i'm going to be running - 3x 5kg the LiPO4 batts will prolly total about 15-20kg though.

 

[BiGH]

i got everything ready for tomorrow! (i'm hoping the controllers will arive today (if australia post is up to their normal standard they should come!)

got my 3x 12v 17ah sla's ready for my first ride

can't wait to go for a ride!!!

one more sleep

PS these 3 batteries weigh 15kg total!!!!!

 

[xyster]

PS these 3 batteries weigh 15kg total!!!!!

That's the weight of my 80v 33ah pack.... :wink:

 

[BiGH]

PS these 3 batteries weigh 15kg total!!!!!

That's the weight of my 80v 33ah pack.... :wink:

its bad isn't it!

Long live lithium.

Postwoman didn't bring me anything its 3:36pm looks like i have to wait until tomorrow!
grrr

 

[xyster]

PS these 3 batteries weigh 15kg total!!!!!

That's the weight of my 80v 33ah pack.... :wink:

its bad isn't it!

Long live lithium.

Postwoman didn't bring me anything its 3:36pm looks like i have to wait until tomorrow!
grrr

Do try to keep yourself from breaking into the local post office.

Yes, 15kg is pretty heavy, wouldn't want to go any heavier. I'd love to be able to cut my pack into two 16ah packs to halve the weight as I don't usually use but 10-15ah of it. But alas, need the extra to provide 35 amps. Wish the LiMn and LiFePO4 cells available now were available a year ago at their present prices....

 

[BiGH]

aww Xy,
I'm getting very edgy evne though its 12:05am... its like steelin time.... lol JUST KIDDING.

i know what you mean... battery tech is tricky like that, kinda like computers :S

just think - if you use ur bike for commuting you're already saving a LOT of money, so getting a new pack isn't that big a deal (more Haydon logic there)

 

[BiGH]

now i am stuck with one question - its an simple one, but i don't wanna stuff it up.

The plug from the batteries - which hole is +ve, which is -ve?!?

thanks in advance,
Haydon

edit:

found the answer:

thanks brett:http://www.users.bigpond.com/solarbbq/crystalytecontrollers.htm

 

[BiGH]

IT LIVES!!!!

its so ghetto right now - i have temp speaker wire running off the batteries... I have 36v 17ah 15kg of SLA's on my BACK!!!

the controller isn't even mounted!

but i've been for a ride (albeit slow due to the high resistance of the wire and bad connections)

YAY!

 

[xyster]

its so ghetto right now - i have temp speaker wire running off the batteries... I have 36v 17ah 15kg of SLA's on my BACK!!!

the controller isn't even mounted!

but i've been for a ride

That's the worst case of pent-up e-ticipation I think I've ever heard of!

 

[BiGH]

That's the worst case of pent-up e-ticipation I think I've ever heard of!

pretty much yea!

my insanely thin speaker wire didn't help with lack of power going on there, had trouble getting up small hills cause could't draw enough amps through it (i'm assuming) - it was only at 36v

 

[BiGH]

what an up and down day.

i get my electric bike and strut brace for the car, and a massive argument with parents (now resolved)


Its funny how each time i get a part for the car, i get a part for the bike! lol


now another question, what effect does resistance of the pack make? ie

a low resistance cable - will that let the bike contorller pull more power than a higher resistance cable?

 

[xyster]

a low resistance cable - will that let the bike contorller pull more power than a higher resistance cable?

Here's a good 'voltage drop as a function of wire gauge and length' calculator:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm

10 or 12 gauge is fine for our short, few-foot runs of wire with ~40 amp loads. You can even use 10 or 12 gauge speaker wire.

Let me guess, the argument was about playing music too loud? Or maybe not wasting all your college money on bike and car projects? Well, with the right wire you can zap the parental units back into line. :wink:

 

[BiGH]

a low resistance cable - will that let the bike contorller pull more power than a higher resistance cable?

Here's a good 'voltage drop as a function of wire gauge and length' calculator:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm

10 or 12 gauge is fine for our short, few-foot runs of wire with ~40 amp loads. You can even use 10 or 12 gauge speaker wire.

Let me guess, the argument was about playing music too loud? Or maybe not wasting all your college money on bike and car projects? Well, with the right wire you can zap the parental units back into line. :wink:

hmm interesting, prolly the extra weight of the large sla batteries. I really need to attach a speedo to the bike- have to go buy a cheep speedo ~$30. and a front / Front and rear mudguard.

Nah argument was much more petty than that. about showing correct respect (i do, but get narky when i'm pushed constantly about meaningless fluff)

 

[BiGH]

i have to say at 36v its kinda running very slow. I hit low voltage cutoff today :swhile i was trying to duck across a road. Lucky i was in the correct gear!

I have to get a speedo and check the setup with my multimeter... something just doesn't feel right - the setup feels similar to that of the 200w motor i rode many months ago.

I really need 2 be able to quantify my speed etc. I think I'll set the batteries to charge tonight and mount the polar hrm to the bike tomorrow so i can log speed etc... and distance

i'm aware the 15 or so kg of SLA isn't good - to compare brett and i worked out the equivalent LiFePO4 battery would be less than 1/3 the weight

 

[Mark_A_W]

Sounds like you are about where I am.

Brett said at 36v the Crystalyte motors would be no faster.

You need more VOLTS!

 

[BiGH]

there is definatly something not right here...

the batteries after the ride (on the jump start meter that came with them - are listing the batteries at 75% full.... at around 12.5v per pack (3 packs).

however when i was riding eariler this evening, basiclaly what would happen was if i had the throttle on full, then it would cut out, releasing the throttle, and reapplying gently would give power again, but too much (i'm assuming current) and it was off again...

my connections are downright dodgy (wire looped through the terminal) with electrical tape stopping any short circuits...

i really need 2 quantify it, i think - need some form of meter, cause i'm sure i'm down on power too...

(this is with the 35a controller).

the only thing i can think of was that voltage sag under max current for the controller (35a) was pulling it under the low voltage cutoff.

I can't think of anything else that would stop me intermittently - the controller was stone cold to the touch.

either way charging now, on wednesday I'll get onto testing this more!

Take Care everyone,
Haydon

 

[xyster]

there is definatly something not right here...
...

the only thing i can think of was that voltage sag under max current for the controller (35a) was pulling it under the low voltage cutoff.

Sounds like a voltage sag issue. At 35 amps, your large SLA pack shouldn't sag below the controller's 29 volt LVC though. Can you get a reading on each SLA's voltage while under full load? I've done this by temporarily taping my DVM to the handlebars. If the batteries test OK, but the overall voltage is 29v or less under load, then the problem is more likely to be the dodgy wiring.

 

[BiGH]

there is definatly something not right here...
...

the only thing i can think of was that voltage sag under max current for the controller (35a) was pulling it under the low voltage cutoff.

Sounds like a voltage sag issue. At 35 amps, your large SLA pack shouldn't sag below the controller's 29 volt LVC though. Can you get a reading on each SLA's voltage while under full load? I've done this by temporarily taping my DVM to the handlebars. If the batteries test OK, but the overall voltage is 29v or less under load, then the problem is more likely to be the dodgy wiring.

thanks Xy, I'll do that on wednesday.

I'm already planning on upgrading the wiring - ie "doing it properly"

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1783

 

[BiGH]

ok so my pack is reading 39.1V using the digtital multimeter. I'm going to charge overnight and set the speedo up! the more i think about it the more likely it is i'm hitting LVC too early on the pack. What should i be running SLA's down to? in terms of invidiual cell voltage?

also i wanted to confirm - to test voltage is taken as between the terminals

amperage is taken as a shunt in the wires? to measure how many electrons are running past - is that right

i'm tempted to ride it tongiht but i won't be able to see current raitings

 

[xyster]

ok so my pack is reading 39.1V using the digtital multimeter. I'm going to charge overnight and set the speedo up! the more i think about it the more likely it is i'm hitting LVC too early on the pack. What should i be running SLA's down to? in terms of invidiual cell voltage?

That pack voltage is about right for full charge. You should check individual battery voltage. One or two might be a tad low, and need to be charged individually with a 12v charger. But that wouldn't be the root cause of your cut-out problem. To help determine that, check the pack voltage while under full power acceleration -- see how low it is sagging.
There's some disagreement here on how far SLAs can be run down. Mine are about 80% depleted (the cut-off point) at 12.0 volts each when not under load (like when I let off the throttle).

 

[BiGH]

i'm an idiot - i just checked the voltmeter on the front of the charging packs - it sas 12v is aprox 30% discharged...

so its about what you said I checked each cell at resting AFTER the ride yesterday, and found yes that they were all reading aprox 75% of full capacity - at around 12.6v (i'm guessing - i didn't try the digital volt meter).

I'm almost tempted to just go and get one more battery pack so i can run them down further pitty its more money :S

 

[xyster]

i'm an idiot - i just checked the voltmeter on the front of the charging packs - it sas 12v is aprox 30% discharged...

so its about what you said I checked each cell at resting AFTER the ride yesterday, and found yes that they were all reading aprox 75% of full capacity - at around 12.6v (i'm guessing - i didn't try the digital volt meter).

I'm not understanding. 12.0 volts should be more like 70% discharged. Are you saying one of the batteries is drained 30% and the others are fully charged?

BTW, since your background is in law and not science: it's best to put as put as many numbers after the decimal point as the precision of your measurement requires, and can register. "12 volts" could mean "12.0 volts" or "12.99 volts" -- that's a very big difference.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Significant_figures

 

[BiGH]

i'm an idiot - i just checked the voltmeter on the front of the charging packs - it sas 12v is aprox 30% discharged...

so its about what you said I checked each cell at resting AFTER the ride yesterday, and found yes that they were all reading aprox 75% of full capacity - at around 12.6v (i'm guessing - i didn't try the digital volt meter).

I'm not understanding. 12.0 volts should be more like 70% discharged. Are you saying one of the batteries is drained 30% and the others are fully charged?

BTW, since your background is in law and not science: it's best to put as put as many numbers after the decimal point as the precision of your measurement requires, and can register. "12 volts" could mean "12.0 volts" or "12.99 volts" -- that's a very big difference.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Significant_figures

I'm talking the other way around (since i'm on the wrong side of the world ) i'm only discharging 25% of the capacity of the battery.

so in terms of remaining capacity- it was sitting on 75% remaining... after my first ride that i kept hitting LVC. (in other words it was still 3/4 full).

edit: i'm actually doing a BSC atm in my spare time - in Anatomy though - but yes we did learn about the decimal points thing.... 12.0