Bike frames suitable for frame mounted batteries and speed.

[auraslip]

Mmmmmmmm

I've been learning that tires larger the 2.5 have serious quality issues. Turns out they are made for "cruisers" and "choppers". Slicks made for these bikes are inexpensive and cheaply made. They have a lot of blow outs. I'm sure the surly 3.7 tire is good. But it's flat instead of round and has tons of rolling resistance.

 

[dogman dan]

I run 2.5 or larger on my dirtbikes, and for sure, none of them roll true. Those big fat, but thin dirt tires always have a fat spot on them somewhere. So you need the big clearance to run em. Those bikes don't go fast though, all I want is flotation in the deep sand.

 

[AussieJester]

You can buy 3.5in hookworms i believe they are high quality tires and
close to a slick...i use one on the front of my cruiser has been great thus far.

Come to think of it...so has my cheapo 4.25in rear slick. :wink:

KiM

 

[Mark_A_W]

Umm...Hookworms??

 

[AussieJester]

Umm...Hookworms??

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=11933

My mistake they are 2.5in not 3.5in

I thought this was a neat tire when i was looking through the range
picking my next set out.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=12385

KiM

 

[spiral]

Hi
Has anyone seen the Schlick cycles Shark? Can't get a picture here, but its worth a look. http://www.schlickcycles.com. Stylyx.com is intersting too for semi recumbent type.

spi

 

[AussieJester]

I recalled some tires Fizbin linked me too in my worklog on another forum

"These are the biggest tires available for mountain bikes and work extremely well in a variety of conditions ranging from snow to sand to trails. The chevron pattern with side knobs rolls surprisingly fast for such a huge tire. Average weight 1250 g."

http://www.wildfirecycles.com/fatbikes.html

Just what you need for those North American winters Doctorbass man..

KiM

 

[veloman]

I'm thinking about picking up this bike near me:

http://hartford.craigslist.org/bik/1926199027.html

I'm just hesitant due to the carbon fiber swing arm, on what is likely a beat up 15 yr old mtn bike. What do you think the chances are of a catastrophic failure while riding this, built as an ebike? It wouldn't be too too hard to custom fab a steel swing arm replacement, but it's still a lot of work and I already have too many projects going.

 

[veloman]

Just saw this on ebay, frame looks great for ebike build.

I almost want to go for it myself for $175 shipped.... although I don't know how high bidding will go.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1998-UNIVEGA-ALUMINUM-FULL-SUSPENSION-MTN-BIKE-/250696087376?pt=Mountain_Bikes&hash=item3a5ea6b750

 

[auraslip]

I ended up ordering this "semi-compact" xl 22" aluminum mtn. bike frame:

$120 shipped.
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1062451_-1_1512507_20000_400314

It's got disc tabs and tire clearance for 2.35, so I should have no problem fitting a 2.4 24" hookworm on the back.

Now I need to find a 100mm travel suspension fork, used would be fine, for around $100-150.

I'm going to have a three gears in the front, but no front derailleur. I can move the chain by hand to a shorter gear in emergencies. It will have a $20 shimano acera rear derailleur (the next price range up is the $60 deore!)

One of my mine concerns is crank clearance of the battery box, and fitting a 52 tooth chain ring.

I'll leave that to my friend who owns a LBS.

 

[auraslip]

I also wanted to point out that while in most cases it's more expensive to build a bike up than to just buy a package kit, I did the math and with all the parts I'd have to replace (shorter stem to compensate for XXL frame, new crankset, etc etc) it ends up being around the same price or even cheaper to just build a bike how I want it.

Also if anyone is interested, I'm ordering the rear 9c kit from ebikes.ca for the motor and cycle anylast.

I will be selling my front 9c motor, ebike.ca controller, and brake levers and throttle.

 

[Mark_A_W]

You will need to fit a derailleur, even if you don't use it.

Or your chain will fall off.

 

[auraslip]

It's actually not as roomy as I hoped The top tube is barely longer than my current hardrock

It looks very nicely made, and I'm shocked by how light it is. Maybe I'm just used to my bike....

The ping fits in there with room to spare, not enough for the ping plus some SLA boosters like I hoped. It's ok I think I'm going to use the money I saved to build a headway pack.

Step one is to figure how much room I have to work with width wise. How far out can I get the front chain ring and cranks? This will take a trip to the bike store...

 

[auraslip]

Uhg
Guy at the LBS was absolutely useless.

He knew nothing about chain ring spacers, bb spindle length, and Q-factor.

I posted on MTBR in the Clydesdale forum pretending to be a fat guy with huuuuuuuuge hips, and asking for help spreading the pedals apart. I stopped asking questions about stuff for electric bikes there after getting told off by a dozen different people. They get very defensive.

I tried researching 60t chainrings, but the cheapest I found was $40. Plus the cranks and other rings would add up to more than the bike frame! I'll have to wait to order that.

 

[Mark_A_W]

I have a 56t chainring, and it's borderline too big.


A 48t will probably work out fine for you.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

Old version Raleigh Chinhook. Aluminium Alloy Frame. Dig it.

 

[auraslip]

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

With a 52t chain ring and a 11t in the rear at 90 rpms would have me pedaling at 32mph. I guess that is good enough for now...

 

[veloman]

You're practically better off getting low and aero at above 30mph, rather than pedaling. I think a 52x11 would be plenty unless you wanted a workout or were racing.

 

[auraslip]

You're practically better off getting low and aero at above 30mph, rather than pedaling. I think a 52x11 would be plenty unless you wanted a workout or were racing.

LoL I'm waiting to get a CA to test this, but I always figured this might be true.

 

[auraslip]

I haven't made much progress. Mostly because I don't know where to start when it comes to wood working. If I could pay a carpenter ~$150, I would in a heart beat.

I've come up with a design for the box. It is simple. just three pieces of wood in a triangle. It's super simple and would be easy, BUT the ping won't fit with the charger and the controller in the middle. So I had to get creative. The top tube is 1.5" thick, and the controller and charger only 2.5" thick. So near the handle bars I'll build boxes on top of the main box, one each side of the top tube. They should stick out over the top tube an inch, which is a PERFECT place to mount my water proof box for all the switches, charger cable, tools, and other fun stuff.

Cooling will be provided by 2 1" pvc 90" joints. Strategically installed on the box. Air goes in, water doesn't. I'm still worried about mist though.

 

[auraslip]

Cutting wood is easy, except when you need very precise cuts.

I hope this adjustable clamping miter box will do the trick.
http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=MITRE+BOX&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=20-800&SDesc=Adjustable+Angle+Clamping+Mitre+Box

It's $50 at lowes! Shit lowes has a table saw for $140. Maybe I'll just have to buy, use, and return

 

[Kingfish]

This is the frame that I am using for building up P1:

2009 Felt Compulsion 1 F/S MtB

I snagged the frame off of eBay for about $850. The rest of it is assembled from just about the best that money can buy – within reason. The significant changes I have made are:

Kris Holm 24-inch rims with Maxxis Hookworms, and the Marzocchi 888 RC3 EVO DH Fork. The custom hubs will allow the employ of front and rear disc brakes. I fully expect to take this bike up to 55 mph; any more than that and I’d either need to consider my burial plans or move to motorcycle framework.

The batteries will be located inside a saddlebag across the top tube; presently I’m in the midst of designing a prototype bag for my current bike using materials acquired from Seattle Fabrics, and even going so far as to purchase a “walking-foot” sewing machine for construction. Sewing doesn’t scare me; I’ve made lots of odd stuff as part of my normal job.

The saddlebag for P0 will contain 18 lipos, 9 on a side. P1 though may have as many as 24; I need to build one and see how it goes.

The Felt Compulsion frame has room for another set of bags on the rear – though I’d have to construct framework for that; there are several designs in my portfolio – however I keep looking for one off the shelf just in case because it’s cheaper to modify parts than it is to build your own from scratch.

I’ll post pics when I complete the bag; it’s drawn up and the patterns are cut out… I’m just sweating over the little stuff.

The Specialized Rockhopper (P0) looks like this bare…

...though today it looks exactly like this except that I’m running 24 lipos in the rear which makes it tail-heavy in the rain. Hence – the need to create a saddlebag to center the weight. The copious bag provides enough capacity that I can still make a mad WOT dash into Seattle if I needs to. hehe

Cheers, KF

 

[auraslip]

My fork is here but I have a big problem with my build.

I need to put the controller and charger in a battery box hanging from the down tube. Like this:

My concern is the travel of my 120mm suspension fork!
How much travel can I actually expect from the fork? Wheel the wheel actually come up five inches? I don't want the wheel to rub on the lower box!

sorry about the x-post

 

[Mark_A_W]

That's not good.

Yes it will hit.

And you may go over the handlebars when it does.

 

[amberwolf]

sorry about the x-post

x-posted from your other thread:

Is it an adustable air shock? If so, let the air out and you'll see exactly how far it'll go up.

As for how far up it'll go in use, that depends on the pressure (for an air shock) and what you hit, how hard, and how fast you're going, etc.

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=320361#p320361