bike tires and seats

[latecurtis]

I will be going on road trips with my e bike as I am setting it up for long distance as I discussed on a previous thread. This new thread will discuss the quality of good tires that will hopefully never go flat until it is time to replace them. Also as I have serious arthritis in my lower back and am seeking an aftermarket seat with back support.
The biggest fear is getting a flat many miles out on a trail, especially the back tire which will require unhooking the motor drive chain as well as the regular pedal chain. My main goal here is to replace the original tires with new and better tires which may never go flat due to new material technology. The original tires which came on my currie ezip have been the best tires I ever had and still have on any bike. They are still rolling without ever getting a flat. any other bike I ever owned has had at least one or two flats by now, but they are wearing out and need to be replaced soon.
I am seeking the professional advice of members on this forum on the best and most reliable tires available. Tires that are guaranteed not to go flat or that are made of superior materials that are virtually impenetrable. I would be willing to spend around 100 dollars for the rear tire alone as that is the one that will be extremely difficult to repair on the road. The front tire will be replaced by the same original tire which came with the bike.
Also I would be very interested in a small portable tool kit that is specifically designed for e bikes. It should have a quality patch kit as well as tools designed for e bikes. Also if anyone has a link to a video on how to change the rear tire on a currie ezip that would also be extremely helpful.
I have been looking for bike seats with a back rest. My back is very arthritic and I require extra support and comfort when riding for extended periods of time. I have searched and will continue to search for both tires and special seats. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Also I can not be the only person who is a member of ES who has arthritis so this link may be useful to many.

thanks latecurtis

 

[bowlofsalad]

I will be going on road trips with my e bike as I am setting it up for long distance as I discussed on a previous thread. This new thread will discuss the quality of good tires that will hopefully never go flat until it is time to replace them. Also as I have serious arthritis in my lower back and am seeking an aftermarket seat with back support.
The biggest fear is getting a flat many miles out on a trail, especially the back tire which will require unhooking the motor drive chain as well as the regular pedal chain. My main goal here is to replace the original tires with new and better tires which may never go flat due to new material technology. The original tires which came on my currie ezip have been the best tires I ever had and still have on any bike. They are still rolling without ever getting a flat. any other bike I ever owned has had at least one or two flats by now, but they are wearing out and need to be replaced soon.
I am seeking the professional advice of members on this forum on the best and most reliable tires available. Tires that are guaranteed not to go flat or that are made of superior materials that are virtually impenetrable. I would be willing to spend around 100 dollars for the rear tire alone as that is the one that will be extremely difficult to repair on the road. The front tire will be replaced by the same original tire which came with the bike.
Also I would be very interested in a small portable tool kit that is specifically designed for e bikes. It should have a quality patch kit as well as tools designed for e bikes. Also if anyone has a link to a video on how to change the rear tire on a currie ezip that would also be extremely helpful.
I have been looking for bike seats with a back rest. My back is very arthritic and I require extra support and comfort when riding for extended periods of time. I have searched and will continue to search for both tires and special seats. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Also I can not be the only person who is a member of ES who has arthritis so this link may be useful to many.

thanks latecurtis

If you are locked into your bike I'd look into the thudbuster seat post. People also say good things about brooks flyer saddle which has some level of spring to it. Either the thudbuster or the brooks flyer might be a good addition, maybe you can use both for a very cushy ride?

Tires are kind of a broad subject. Some tires I might suggest, the widest you can fit with each tire as wider tires provide a softer ride, is schwalbe big apple plus, schwalbe marathon plus, and schwalbe marathon almotion. These tire suggestions are with the assumption that you are riding primarily on road. Beyond that, if you want to get really extreme there are things like thorn proof inner tubes, and to push things even further, you can put something like stans or slime inside of the inner tube (slime/stans are latex sealants for holes that are supposed to be very quick acting).

As far as I know, all of this won't absolutely promise a flatless experience, but it'll help tons if these concepts are used in combination. I think the only way to make flats impossible is to use airless tires, which I read provide for a less than excellent ride experience. http://www.airlesstiresnow.com/Bicycle-Tires_c_172.html Here is something I found during a brief search.

If it were up to me, I'd have you on a recumbent with open mouth drop outs and a direct drive/geared hub. Recumbents are excellent in efficiency (aerodynamic advantage) and comfort. There are down sides to recumbents, such as I can't bunny hop a recumbent over a curb and if you have a really low recumbent, some worry about being seen (lots of lights, and assume you are never seen no matter the bike you ride). I've ridden uprights a lot, and I know the feeling of a sore ass, neck, wrists, back and so on, it doesn't take long for that to happen. I can ride radically longer on a recumbent without any sort of those issues, especially back, neck and wrists, maybe my ass gets a little sore on very long rides but nothing like even a decent upright seat would cause (though I never used a thudbuster with a brooks flyer).

I don't know if a upright with a backrest is going to help you much, but I am sure they are out there. http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Comfort-Saddle-with-Backrest/dp/B006EPP9G0/ Here is a well reviewed one on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Alien-26-Function-Bicycle-Tool/dp/B000FIE4AE/ I've carried this around along with an adjustable wrench (the wrench it comes with isn't great, nor adjustable), a spare spoke, spoke tool, extra (pedro) tire levers, spare tubes, some cash/change and maybe a cell phone for emergencies. You might also carry a spare charger for your battery pack among other things. If you are serious about riding a lot, I'd make sure the wheels (rims, spokes, hubs) were in excellent shape all around. If you aren't using a quick strong rim and very nice spokes, I'd change that. If you think fixing a flat while you are far away is difficult, good luck fixing a spoke/rim. Bicycle hubs also need maintenance. Sealed or loose bearings can be replaced in hubs which will provide for a more reliable and efficient ride.

Beyond having lots of illumination for the front, sides and rear of yourself, I also recommend using a rear view mirror. It takes a moment to turn back and look behind you, this can be dangerous in various ways. http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/ This is the one I use, it's fantastic with excellent adjustably. With glasses mounted rear view, I can turn my head slightly to the left and right as I glance to get an impressive field of view or simply use the mirror to track something at my rear while I am still keeping my head forward (swiftly glancing from the mirror to in front of me back and forth).

Sorry for the wall of text.

 

[spinningmagnets]

Its doubful you are using a 20-inch wheel, but several builders have switched to a wide and sturdy 20-inch BMX wheel, and mounted a Pirelli moped tire (ML75?).

I believe there are several options for 24-inch and 26-inch bicycle rims. I'm also assuming you won't be spoking a moto rim to a bicycle hub (lots of options.

Concerning common bicycle tires, I seem to remember Ribmo being recommended by Chalo and LFP, and many riders also recommending the CST-Cyclops.

I have a Thudbuster, expensive, but my old back likes it because it soaks up unexpected potholes. I have also heard good things about the SR Suntour SP12 NCX.

http://www.electricbike.com/suspension-seat-posts/

 

[slacker]

Marathon makes a good tire for puncture resistant and waterproof too so it will work well for pool jumping.

 

[latecurtis]

Has anyone used this airless tire?

http://www.airlesstiresnow.com/Marvel-Compound-Tires-Uni-Directional-Tread-Airless-Tire--Options_p_261.html

I may get two for the front and rear. What do you think?

 

[latecurtis]

I like the seat also

http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Comfort-Saddle-with-Backrest/dp/B006EPP9G0/


Pool jumping sounds like fun but with an e bike. sounds like suicide by electrocution. However I would like to try jumping over an automobile with an e bike and landing into an 8 foot pool which has been drained out and filled up with bags of leaves. It would take several pick up truck loads of leaves in the fall and a long ramp would have to be constructed. Also I would need the 3 kilowatt motor. Does anybody want to help me with this idea.

thanks latecurtis

 

[wesnewell]

You don't need to remove the wheel to fix at puncture flat. just take one side of the tire off the rim and pull out the tube. Find and fix and then put back in and inflate. Just make sure you get the thing that caused the puncture out of the tire before putting the tube back in. Might want to carry some sand paper in case the hole is close to a seam. You'll need to sand the seam down even with the tube to get a good patch job.

 

[latecurtis]

I got the bell airless tube. it is terrible. like riding on a flat tire all the time. the bike weighs about 100 pounds and I am about 250 pounds. I would imagine that the max weight on these tubes to be around 200 to 225 including the bike and rider. I wasted my time and money on this product. Does anybody have anything better. If there are airless tires or tubes are any of them sold by weight capacity. I need something up to 400 pounds max. Or if nothing airless what about a tire or tube that is puncture proof. I need a high quality product. The bell solid tube would work on my gary fisher 20 pound bike if I lost about 30 pounds also and never carry anything. I did not read the weight limit on it but it cant be much over 200 pounds max. Please help me out here guys. I heard that the slime tubes are garbage also. I am looking for a quality tube or tube and tire combo. What is out there that will work for me. 400 pounds maximum load and flat and puncture resistant. Please help.
thanks

 

[Drunkskunk]

Sorry to say, but all airless tires will be that bad. Its not just the weight rating, its a physics issue as well, in the way that weight is transferred to the ground.

There is no such thing a a flat proof air filled tire. There is no such thing as a puncture proof tube.
But there are tires and tubes that are harder to puncture, and ways to mitigate the problem if you get a puncture.

At the extreme end is to use a moped or motorcycle tire. That involves building a custom wheel to fit your bike, but the kevlar and steel belted super thick 15lbs tires are hard to push anything through, and flats are rare. combined with a thick tube and a tire sealant and you have something nearly flat proof. And super heavy. And almost imposable to change a flat on your own.

A step down from that is to run a DH cased tire like a Hookworm along with a DH tube and a good tire sealant like slime. Its also not flat proof, but it can take thorns, nails, and wire punctures and still remain inflated.

A step below that is to use a tire like a RibMo, with it's thick puncture resistant layer.

As for seats, any seat that has you sitting straight upright is going to transfer shock directly up your spine. A back support will only make it worse by focusing the shock. If you want a fully supporting seat, try a recumbent bike. when you're laying back in a seat, the shock is transferred more latterly to your body, keeping the pressure off your spine.

 

[Chalo]

Yep, stay away from airless tires. They have their place, but racking up significant miles is not it.

To one degree or another, flat protection will work against efficiency and ride comfort. So you should settle with yourself how important efficiency and ride comfort are to you.

I recommend Panaracer RiBMo not because it's the most puncture resistant tire around-- though neither I nor my sweetie have ever suffered a puncture with them-- but because it's the fastest, most comfortable tire I have found with that category of puncture protection. It only comes as big as 26 x 2.0".

The most effective puncture protection comes along with ride quality compromises and added rolling resistance. Schwalbe Marathon Plus, Continental Touring Plus, and Michelin Pilot City all have a thick elastomeric breaker belt between the tread and the tire casing. This is the gold standard of puncture resistance, especially when it's stacked on top of a textile belt (e.g. Kevlar). You'll pay for it in rolling resistance, a harsher ride, and less confident handling than a more supple tire would offer.

If you are riding a normal upright bicycle, a backrest won't help. If you can even use a backrest on an upright bike, you are doing something wrong with regards to riding position. The key to being able to put in long, reasonably comfortable miles on a regular bike is in dividing your weight between seat, pedals, and grips. If your body positioning allows you to divide your weight up among those points, and to shift the distribution around as necessary to remain comfortable, you'll necessarily be pitched too far forward for a backrest to do anything for you.

On the other hand, if you encounter a road hazard, having a backrest may prevent you from shifting your weight back off the saddle. You could be chucked over the bars in a situation that would otherwise have allowed you to remain on the bike. If you feel like you need a backrest, you've probably got your bars too high, too close to you, or both. You have to be able to share some weight with the bars and the pedals, and shift it around a little, or any saddle will leave you miserable after a little while.

The comfy seat I sell the most, to the widest range of people, with the best rider feedback, is this one: http://www.jbi.bike/web/checking_product_description.php?part_number=49450

On first examination, it seems like it would be too soft for long term comfort. But because of the slotted design, it doesn't wear me out like other poofy saddles do. And it has a little bit of suspension at the rails, and it doesn't cost much ($26 at my shop).

 

[latecurtis]

How do there tubes rate

http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Thorn-Resistant-Bicycle-Tube/dp/B000AOA0KG/ref=sr_1_9/175-6456488-2854533?ie=UTF8&qid=1406234253&sr=8-9&keywords=puncture+proof+bicycle+tubes

http://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Mountain-Details-Bicycle-Schrader/dp/B00FRI7AXK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1406234635&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=DH+puncture+proof+bicycle+tubes


http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Thorn-Resistant-Schrader-valve-1-95-2-125/dp/B00165Q99Y/ref=sr_1_10/175-6456488-2854533?ie=UTF8&qid=1406234253&sr=8-10&keywords=puncture+proof+bicycle+tubes


will this work or will it make the bike handle poorly

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Tuffy-Bicycle-Liner-Orange/dp/B000C191I4/ref=sr_1_8/175-6456488-2854533?ie=UTF8&qid=1406234253&sr=8-8&keywords=puncture+proof+bicycle+tubes


rate these tires for durability and comfort

http://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Performance-RaceGuard-Cruiser-Bicycle/dp/B007JSOMS2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=18RS5QKEQWP1RS1XJYBT

http://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Hookworm-26-Mountain-Tire/dp/B00KI12UHW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=18RS5QKEQWP1RS1XJYBT

http://www.amazon.com/Panaracer-RiBMo-Tire-Folding-1-25-Inch/dp/B0016164G6/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1406234963&sr=1-2&keywords=ribmo+26%22+tires

http://www.amazon.com/Panaracer-RiBMo-Tire-Folding-1-50-Inch/dp/B001617Y9M/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1406234963&sr=1-3&keywords=ribmo+26%22+tires


I will make a decision on one of these tires and tubes. The application is for my e bike and needs to be the most puncture resistant but without severally sacrificing handling and comfort. Also it must be able to withstand 400 pounds maximum weight. The e bike is over 100 pounds and I am close to 250 and have a large basket capable of hauling over 50 pounds of groceries or laundry.

The cheap bell airless tubes will go on my gary fisher which is 70 pounds less weight and will not be carrying heavy loads. The maximum weight will be well under 300 pounds. the the airless tubes will work for that bike but not the currie ezip trailz with 3 - 22Ah batteries. If I convert the gary fisher to electric it will be a front wheel system like the magic pie and I will use lipo batteries because they are lightweight. Please let me know what you guys think would be the best tire/tube combinations listed above or is there something better than those choices. I wasted my money ordering the bell solid tube for my currie. paid 46 bucks with two day shipping. could of got it for 20 bucks at wall mart but did not know till I went to wall mart to buy a cheap tire for it. Waster 66 bucks. I don't want to waste any more money. Please help me out here.
sincerely latecurtis

 

[slacker]

late curtis, i believe everyone has gave you their advice. time to man up and make your own decision and learn from your mistakes. good day

 

[latecurtis]

Please slacker, I don't wish to make any more mistakes. The solid tube was a terrible idea. I cant believe someone on this forum suggested it. I not only wasted 46 dollars on it including shipping but it almost burnt out my motor. Yesterday I made a deal which saved me 220 dollars. A friend of mine took the best tire and tube out of the Gary Fisher bike and put it on the back of the currie ezip and took out the solid tube. I would have spent about 70 dollars on thorn resistant tires and new tubes.
Then he traded me a good laptop for the rest of the Gary Fisher to upgrade his Haro bike. I was going to spend 150 bucks on a labtop next month.The Fisher was not worth as much as I thought as it was not all original parts but he wanted the front shocks because they were rock something and the rims he wanted , but I gave him the frame also because my next bike will be 29 inch lightweight aluminum or carbon composite with a 1000 watt or more front wheel kit. like to get a 2 or 3 kilowatt motor built into the front wheel. I want to go about 60 mph and will power it with lipos from hobby king. Not any time soon though as my 36 volt upgraded currie now goes faster than ever with the taller bontragger tire and tube on the back with 50 pounds pressure I get at least 20 maybe close to 25 mph out of it. Will be hooking up a speedometer soon to let you all know.Plus now I can change the back tire myself. All I want to know before I complete this thread is the answer to one question. Is this product good or not so good.

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Tuffy-Bicycle-Liner-Orange/dp/B000C191I4/ref=sr_1_8/175-6456488-2854533?ie=UTF8&qid=1406234253&sr=8-8&keywords=puncture+proof+bicycle+tubes

 

[mark5]

That Amazon product has 176 reviews. Many of the other Amazon links you posted also have reviews.

 

[Drunkskunk]

If you plan to use Slime, go with the Hookworm. If you aren't, go with the RiBMo in the 26X2" size.
Skip the tire liner for all the reasons previously stated.

 

[bowlofsalad]

The solid tube was a terrible idea. I cant believe someone on this forum suggested it. I not only wasted 46 dollars on it including shipping but it almost burnt out my motor. Yesterday I made a deal which saved me 220 dollars. A friend of mine took the best tire and tube out of the Gary Fisher bike and put it on the back of the currie ezip and took out the solid All I want to know before I complete this thread is the answer to one question. Is this product good or not so good.

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Tuffy-Bicycle-Liner-Orange/dp/B000C191I4/ref=sr_1_8/175-6456488-2854533?ie=UTF8&qid=1406234253&sr=8-8&keywords=puncture+proof+bicycle+tubes

Mentioning something isn't the same as suggesting of use or a recommendation of any kind. Here is what I wrote about tubeless tires. "which I read provide for a less than excellent ride experience" Which means, I have no experience in the matter, and what I have read about them isn't very good (a nice way of saying they probably aren't worth your consideration). In any case, it is wise to -READ THE SHIT OUT OF SOMETHING- before you just jump on it as you seem to be doing. Read until your eyeballs bleed, and then read some more. Don't just ask a question, get one or two responses and assume that will give you an understanding on a matter. Even if someone is a master of an idea, they probably won't understand your situation and application like you do.

Just as Mark5 said, the product you are asking about has tons of reviews, read them and think about it. Just to reiterate, the mistake you made was making assumptions.

 

[Chalo]

[...]because my next bike will be 29 inch lightweight aluminum or carbon composite with a 1000 watt or more front wheel kit. like to get a 2 or 3 kilowatt motor built into the front wheel. I want to go about 60 mph[...]

Okay, first of all, trying to stuff more than a kW through the front wheel of a bike with normal layout is not a good idea. You'll lose traction and slip the front-- sooner if you have a riding position that suggests having a backrest. Every ounce of pressure you apply to a backrest is more weight taken off the front wheel.

Second, you'll need not 2 or 3 kW, but well over 6kW to reach 60mph on flat ground. A bicycle is not a good starting point for that kind of performance. It's not sturdy enough. That goes double for lightweight, high performance bicycles that are not intended to last indefinitely even with pedal power alone.

 

[latecurtis]

What will this do on flat ground.

http://cnebikes.en.made-in-china.com/product/oKQmDSjAaYha/China-5kw-Hub-Motor-with-Electric-Bike-Kit-for-Bicycle.html

This will be my next build a lightweight aluminum mountain bike

will be running 4- 22.2 volt 8000 6s lipos for a total of 88.8 volts at about 300 pounds total weight.

 

[Drunkskunk]

What will this do on flat ground.

http://cnebikes.en.made-in-china.com/product/oKQmDSjAaYha/China-5kw-Hub-Motor-with-Electric-Bike-Kit-for-Bicycle.html

This will be my next build a lightweight aluminum mountain bike

will be running 4- 22.2 volt 8000 6s lipos for a total of 88.8 volts at about 300 pounds total weight.

I give up.

 

[Chalo]

Go for the 26 inch version, to moderate thrust at the contact patch of the wheel, and to have compatibility with an existing full sized bike. You may need to use a fully programmable controller so that you can limit current for manageability of a high powered front wheel motor.

Too much startup torque on the front wheel can make it easy for you to lose traction and fall down.

I would occasionally experience front wheel slippage-- to a somewhat manageable degree-- on my 36V, 35A front wheel bike in steep and wet street conditions. I think the same bike in the same conditions would have been a real handful at 88V with higher amps.

 

[mark5]

What will this do on flat ground.

http://cnebikes.en.made-in-china.com/product/oKQmDSjAaYha/China-5kw-Hub-Motor-with-Electric-Bike-Kit-for-Bicycle.html

This will be my next build a lightweight aluminum mountain bike

will be running 4- 22.2 volt 8000 6s lipos for a total of 88.8 volts at about 300 pounds total weight.

Motor specs say "Motor Drop out: 140-155mm" Hope it fits your bike.

 

[Ussyamoto]

Just heads up.... Hi speeds = short distance.... what your asking is going to be extremely expensive and research intensive. If you have this kind of money, why not start with a 72v kelly controller with a magic pie 2. Hook up 48v until you get used to the ride, then up it to 72v when you're ready. 40mph is manageable on a bicycle and is less likely to kill you instantly if you screw up....

If you insist on going with lipos, again start with 48v and learn how to respect them, if you don't you can loose everything.
I'd suggest you use LiFePO4s... they last longer and are a hell of a lot safer. Plain a simply put, worth more in the long run.

If you're wanting to go with high speeds for long distances your talking about a huge battery bank, a LIGHT Frame just isn't going to hold up... it's just going to crack the first time you hit a good pot hole.
Try a more manageable speed with the 48v and see how many amps it takes you to get to your destination, then double the about of amps required if you still plan on using 72v.

As far as tires, I have a Schwalbe Marathon GG RLX http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004T0GCTU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Works great, you're going to want a fat tire to handle the weight. Fatter/higher pressure the better, give your motor more cushion for hard bumps too.

Hope this helps Curtis

 

[Ussyamoto]

What will this do on flat ground.

http://cnebikes.en.made-in-china.com/product/oKQmDSjAaYha/China-5kw-Hub-Motor-with-Electric-Bike-Kit-for-Bicycle.html

This will be my next build a lightweight aluminum mountain bike

will be running 4- 22.2 volt 8000 6s lipos for a total of 88.8 volts at about 300 pounds total weight.

Please try to do your research.. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=54617

and remember this

Important to remember!
Watts are motor output watts ... not input watts!
Peak HP-output watts can require 200% the input watts.

So what you see on that graph you can double the required watts and get a realistic Idea of what you'll need