Brake pads for Arrow 9 hydraulic

Zambam

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Does anyone recognize these hydraulic calipers on my Arrow 9? What kind of replacement pads do I need? The rear was squeaking so I took both calipers off, cleaned them with brake clean including wiping down the disk and they are quiet now. There's still lining material left on the pads but I don't know how much without having new pads to compare. Can you tell looking at these pics of the front?

IMG_2612.jpegIMG_2611.jpeg
 
I suppose I should take the old pads out to have a look see if there are part numbers on them? Is there a tutorial on removing the pads and spring? I've never worked on them before. Are ceramic pads longer lasting and do they stop better?
 
I suppose I should take the old pads out to have a look see if there are part numbers on them? Is there a tutorial on removing the pads and spring? I've never worked on them before. Are ceramic pads longer lasting and do they stop better?

Tektro brakes are very common. You have to take the pads out to replace them, so pull them out. Don't work the brake levers while the brake rotors or pads are removed. If the pads look like the ones E-HP linked, then that's what they are. You don't have to use Tektro brand, just pads with a compatible shape. There are a bunch of Tektro models and no-name clones that use the same shape pads.

"Ceramic" is a marketing term without a fixed meaning, so you can disregard it. The three basic categories of pads available are organic/fiber, semi-metallic, and fully metallic/sintered. Organic or fiber pads are quietest and have a more gradual braking feel, but they wear out fastest. Metallic or sintered pads have the longest life and strongest braking, but they make more noise and wear your rotors faster. Semi-metallic pads are intermediate in all respects.

I use fully metallic pads when I have the choice. EBC Gold HH+ pads are my favorite, but any metallic pads do what I want them to do.

Clean your brake rotors thoroughly with an aggressive residue-free solvent like automotive brake cleaner spray (and a clean rag) at the time you replace pads. If there are any oily contaminants on the rotors (including traces of leaked brake fluid), they'll immediately contaminate the new pads.
 
Judging by that first photo, you have roughly at least 2/3 pad material left.

These pictorial charts should help you identify the correct replacement pads:


 
Judging by that first photo, you have roughly at least 2/3 pad material left.

True, as long as both pads are equally worn. We can only see one.

I answered a subsequent question rather than the original question. Sorry!
 
I'm curious: the KoolStop disc pad poster linked above shows "ebike specific" pads that have "special compound with ceramic barrier to reduce heat transfer".

Why would you want to *reduce* heat transfer? Wouldn't it be better to remove the heat from the pads? (for instance, my Avid BB7 OEM pads have a copper backing plate....though the cheap Dymoece pads I tried out as replacements (which work about as well but don't last as long) use something lighter, not sure what).

Or am I not really understanding what heat they're trying to prevent the transfer of and to where?

(I'd get it if they are doing it to keep the fluid from boiling on hydraulics, but not for cable-operated calipers).


It really doesnt' make sense to me because their regular line below the "ebike" pads even have *heatsinks* on some of them to get rid of heat right off the pads. :?


 

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