broken lower fork legs

[xlzeo]

hello everyone, iv got a sugestion install torque arms on my front fork legs on my front hub motor, during a ride it got break how it even posible isnt the torque arms sepuse to prevent that?
is it safe keep ride like that? how can i fix it? or what should i do diffrent?,
som pictures:

 

[Ypedal]

psl post pictures here instead of hosting links to that site..

 

[TylerDurden]

For posting pix here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=14748&p=230300&#p230300


You will need a new fork.

The torque-arm was installed backwards - it needs to be mounted in tension, not compression.

 

[xlzeo]

For posting pix here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=14748&p=230300&#p230300


You will need a new fork.
can u guys recommand me a stong enough fork i can buy over the intrnet and will have shipping to israel?
The torque-arm was installed backwards - it needs to be mounted in tension, not compression.

can i have a picture or explanation how i should install it corectlly, i didnt understood how should i do it diffrently

if i will install it corectlly is it will be posible ride with currect fork is it safe?

 

[Ypedal]

there is no need to use big funky colors and size

yes, i edited your above post.

 

[amigafan2003]

can i have a picture or explanation how i should install it corectlly, i didnt understood how should i do it diffrently

if i will install it corectlly is it will be posible ride with currect fork is it safe?

Behind the fork http://www.ebikes.ca/torque_arms/

Good:-

Bad:-

Whether it's safe is all relative - 2000watts on an alloy/mag fork even with torque arms isn't safe. 1000 watts might be borderline.

I've been running 700 watts for 3k miles on a carbon fiber fork with alloy drop outs - but I'm using two torque arms and properlly installed c washers.

 

[jussumguy]

Noooooooooooooooo... No no no no no.

You can't ride it.

YOU HAVE BROKEN YOUR DROPOUT.

New fork...

-

 

[cal3thousand]

Is that a threaded fork?

I have an new RST 191 CL that I'm not using if you want to buy it. It has steel lowers so you won't be cracking them like this. If you mount the torque arm wrong this time, it will just bend things.

 

[xlzeo]

Is that a threaded fork?

I have an new RST 191 CL that I'm not using if you want to buy it. It has steel lowers so you won't be cracking them like this. If you mount the torque arm wrong this time, it will just bend things.

anoone knows good cheap suspention steel forks with good service store over the intrenet making shipping to israel?

 

[neptronix]

Ever considered a rear motor?

I never thought that mounting a motor on a flexy pogo stick ( front fork ) was a good idea.. and there's a lot of proof out there that it isn't

 

[amberwolf]

To me the pics of the broken fork show that there were no washers installed in the cup of the dropout, so that all pressure of nuts/etc are on the inside of teh cup at the dropout, and not on the lip whcih cannot take those forces. This probably caused the failure; it is a very common mistake by people not paying attention to how the original wheel is installed, before replacing it with something different.

 

[xlzeo]

To me the pics of the broken fork show that there were no washers installed in the cup of the dropout, so that all pressure of nuts/etc are on the inside of teh cup at the dropout, and not on the lip whcih cannot take those forces. This probably caused the failure; it is a very common mistake by people not paying attention to how the original wheel is installed, before replacing it with something different.

the C washer sepouse ro be inside (before the fork?)

 

[amigafan2003]

To me the pics of the broken fork show that there were no washers installed in the cup of the dropout, so that all pressure of nuts/etc are on the inside of teh cup at the dropout, and not on the lip whcih cannot take those forces. This probably caused the failure; it is a very common mistake by people not paying attention to how the original wheel is installed, before replacing it with something different.

the C washer sepouse ro be inside (before the fork?)

No - outside of the fork. So hub > whatever washers are needed to get the spacing right > fork > c washer > torque arm > washer > nut.

Even with the c washer you still need to make sure the torque arm clears the lawyer lips - I still had to grind a mm off mine even with c washers installed. You can drop the washer before the nut if there isn't enough thread but you need to keep an eye on the nut loosening (you should anyway regardless).

 

[dogman dan]

I missed this one, but my pictures didn't. 8) What happend to you, is the uneven pressure on the forks cracked the dropouts when you tightened the nut. Once that happened, nothing could save those forks.

Yes, far more important than the direction the torque arms face is the need for a solid flat fitting washer underneath them. Justin at Ebikes ca invented the solution, which is now being copied by the china ripoffs, along with one of his torque arm designs. But in low quality steel. Unfortunately you got the same washers that don't fit that have been shipped with front hubs for years.

The C washer ( Justins invention) fills the cup in the fork that is designed to retain a wheel when a quick release hub is not tightened. Your kit came with washers that won't fit, and the torque arm is even wider.

You can manufacture your own washers, by taking a grinder to the large thick washers that came with the kit, The ones with a tab on them. Then when the the nut is tightened, the washers and or torque arms bear on only the washer, and when you tighten the nut, it will not crack the forks.

In addition to that, it might be needed to add a washer to the inside of the fork as well. Some motors axles have a very narrow shoulder that the fork bears on on the inner side. It may be required to put those washers with the D shaped hole on the inside of the fork. This will require cutting the shoulder of the axle so the thickness of the washer does not make the axle distance wider. You notch the axle shoulder with a hacksaw or file.

Fitting a front hub to alloy suspension forks is for experts. But I will be here to try to walk you through it, and get it done right.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=15163&hilit=Ebikes+ca+c+washers

Here is the C washer thread above.

 

[dogman dan]

And the torque arm thread. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=15167&p=225525&hilit=Ebikes+CA+torque+arms#p225525

When the pictures were replaced, I didn't get a shot of the inner washers. The 9 continent motors have that slim axle shoulder that tries to cut into the fork from the backside. Look at your broken forks, and if they show that the axle dug into the forks, then the axle may have spread the dropouts from the backside.

In that case, you need this, axle, inner washer with d shape hole, fork, C washer, torque arm, washer, nut. If the C washer is not tall enough, you might need to file down the top of the cup. You want to see air between all sides of the torque arm and the fork, so only the washer bears the load.