Building tppacks boards

wookey

10 W
Joined
Jul 13, 2009
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83
I've been building up some tppacks boards and ran into various minor issues, which I thought it worth recording to save others some hassle.

I am building up:
* one 16-channel CMS/balancer board (v4.2.6)
* 2 LVC/HVC parallel adaptors (v4.1.2)
* 2 meanwell supply controllers (v4.2.6)

LVC/HVC parallel boards first:

One PCB fault, one duff MTC6, BS107P transistors opposite orientation to instructions.

After fitting all the bits and testing each channel response I found that one board (channels 9-16) was fine but two channels on board 1 didn't work. Channel 4 did not switch on low voltage. Channel 7 had the output permanently on. swaping the MTC6 on channel 4 fixed that problem, but it did not fix channel 7. The voltage divider voltage was not the same as the other channels and the resitors measured differntly (in-circuit - always a bit confusing). Eventually I traced the problem to a PCB fault - R220 was shorted to the TC54 output - the resitor circle is too close to the trace so it was just OK on one board and just not OK on the other. Other boards will have this problem until the traces are modified slightly. I have tried to take a photo of this - will try and upload later.

It now tests fine.

The Meanwell controller board:

BS107P goes in opposite orientation, trim pots physically too big, 1 4k7 resistor missing.
The BS107P transistors supplied go in the opposite way round to the instructions/diagrams. i.e they face towards the tabs, not away. Also the supplied trimmers have the wrong pin spacings. It was just possible to bend them to go it, after enlarging the holes slightly but it was a pain. Getting the right ones would be much better. I just posted the Mouser BOM provided, so I'm not quite sure why that didn't work - presumably part substitution (it's a couple of months ago now, so I'd have to check the details)

A n updated BOM would be a good idea.

This board seemed to work OK once assembled. (I haven't finished testing it yet)

Next the BMS/Balancer board:

BOM is for LiPO variant - change it for LiFePO4 variant.
4k7 resistors missing.

Note that the standard BOM is for the LiPo battery resistor values. You need to change that for the LiFePo4 resistors. I failed to grok this in advance, so had to go shopping again for the right resistors.
When I bought replacement 4k7 resistors I ended getting the 'standard size' ones, not the little tiddly ones used on these designs (which of course don't fit very well). That'll be my fault, but I don;t know what the magic package term for the small ones is (what should one be looking for)?
Mouser sent 7 instead of 8 diodes, which was tiresome, but as these are very average diodes I found a spare in my bits box which I think should be OK.

Note that the BOM includes a male 18-way connector and crimps, but not the corresponding female connector, so you need to go and buy thattoo (and more crimps) before you can actually use it properly (or pick your own connector)

The instructions don't actually say which size/model the hammond box required is. I had to ask Gary for a reminder.

This board seemed to work perfectly once assembled.
 
I'm suprised no-one responded to this post. No-one else had any trouble with shorts on the LVC/HVC board?

Anyway, I have now had the chance to use things for a while and it seems to be mostly-working, but I'm not getting convincing charge termination down to float levels at end of charge, and one triple-cell tends to get over 3.620 and set the celllog bleeper off. I've seen some odd effects with the meanwell supply curent being well over the 6A is is specced for (10A) and the current having dropped to 0, rather than float level, when charge is mostly done.

I need to do some more tests to work out what's what. It seems to work well enough, but did once get a cell (headway pack) up to 4.2V, which is going to have been bad for it (I think that triplet is going to need replacing before the rest of the pack - it's been overcharged once too often I think).

Meanwhile I got no answer from direct mail to Gary asking which Hammond box to buy (it doesn't actually say in the build docs, so far as I could see). I guess he missed that mail in the flood. I reckon I've worked it out now and the correct answer (for a 16S v4.2.6 board) is HM899-ND http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=HM898-ND

If I can just sort out that, the ally bar and a sensible 20-way connector, then plumb the LVC into the brake line I'll be done.
 
Mine has never gone orange either. Although I have had it throttled down to low-current mode.

And now the PSU has died so I need to fix that before further investigation of the controller board.
 
Sorry to hear about your Meanwell. Was it a real MW or a clone? I removed and re-installed Q1 and Q2 but it seems to act the same. I have not tried it with the LiPo pack attached yet. Settings those pots still seems a bit mysterious to me. Maybe I'm too used to the Ping Plug-n-Play charger.

-Warren.
 
OK, PSU has been fixed (replaced both main mosfets). Seems to work fine.

So now I'm back to why my controller board isn't working quite right (which is probably why the PSU melted in the first place).

So, the basic status is that I have 2 48V meanwell supplies (S-350-48) which have both had a current-control trimer added (SVR2) and the voltage resistors adjusted so that it has a voltage range of 48-58V. These supplies work pretty well to charge my 30Ah 52V 16S3P headway pack, except that they do it quite slowly, as the meanwell current controller starts to slope off quite quickly.

I have two tppacks controller boards - one for each supply. Only one has actually been used properly so far.

As previously mentioned, my orange LED has never come on, so I'm not at all sure that the current control actually works. I can use the MW internal current control trimmer so set a max current level, but I must admit that I don't really know how the internal and controller current limits will interact. Do I in fact need to set the internal one to 'lots' in order for the controller board to have free reign to operate properly?

I've used the supply to charge several times and it seems to work OK, except that the charge termination seems a bit random (sometimes works, sometimes doesn't). And I've never seen an orange light.

I've checked that the orange LED does work OK. I'm not sure about its corresponding transistor - it's tricky to test in-circuit. Pin 7 of the opamp is 12V, pin 1 is 0V (nearly).

I thought, as I have two controller boards, I'd try the other one and see if it was any better/different. Sadly it seems to work worse: wiring it up leaves the meanwell output being just 13V, and the internal voltage control timmer (SVR1) makes less than 1V difference (13.0-13.4V). I'm getting 9.6V out of the regulator on this board. It's 12V on the one that mostly-works. Is that a clue?

Removing the 2.48V sense wire from the controller put the output voltage back where it should be, but it also made something go 'pop' on the controller board. No obvious smoke but there was a 'crack' noise, and now the green LED doesn't light. Now the internal SVR1 trimmer regulates between 12.6 and 13.04 (i.e about 0.4V lower than before. What did I break?

So then I put the other board back on to do some more testing, but soldered the +ve wire on in the wrong place and blew up the regulator. oops. Time to go shopping again.

And I've just realised that maybe it was working just fine originally. I'd wired up the output wrong and was taking it straight off the meanwell +VE, instead of after the current-sense shunt. Doh - no wonder the current control didn't seem to be doing much. I've run out of fiddling time for today and will come back to this.
 
OK, just a bit of an update. My hammond box finally arrived so I've now fitted a 20Way connector to the balancer and the other half to my LVC boards. Balancer working nicely. But I noticed whilst using it that one of the FAN431s on one LVC board was running really hot. A closer look showed that a track had blown on channel 3. Then I noticed two more had blown on channels 1 and 2. Hmm, that's not good. I patched them up but plugging it back in just made the 5.1V zenner on channel 3 glow red hot. Once it was snipped the board went back to having a hot FAN431. Looks like I've nuked something on that oard now without even noticing when. I'll buy some more bits. I wonder if this could be due to plugging two packs in to the wrong 'halves' (my packs have 5-way Xh connectors) so it's possible to swap them round accedentally. I guess that would apply overvoltage somewhere.

And I've killed both my meanwell controller boards too, so I'm really not doing very well here! I'll but a load more bits and try fixing it all up over the easter w/e.
 
Does anyone know how to test the MCT6? When I test them I get open (high resistance) reading all the way around for all of the chips. I can not image that all of them are bad? Any help would be appreciated.
John
 
Diode test setting on your multimeter - measure the forward voltage. If its off in both ways, or shorted, its cactus.
 
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