Burnt Motor?

faithblade

100 µW
Joined
Sep 15, 2023
Messages
7
Location
California
I got a new controller after the old one fried randomly. Im getting phase and hall wiring issues, I tried all 36 combinations and same error for all. Does the motor seem fine or is it burnt out? A spider seems to have gotten in and made a web. Theres also some dust particles inside. Are the wire sleeves supposed to look burnt like that?IMG_7795.jpegIMG_7796.jpegIMG_7797.jpeg
 
Looks toasted, whatever overloading your usage puts it thru could be what blew up the previous controller and did this damage.

What job (speed, weight, acceleration, range, etc) does the bike (or whatever) have to do for you, under what specific riding conditions (hills, terrain, road conditions, wind, etc?

What specific drivetrain is between motor and ground?

What was the old controller and how exactly was it wired up?

What is the new controller and how exactly is it wired up?

What is the battery?

LInks to the purchase pages for each item may be helpful
 
Looks toasted, whatever overloading your usage puts it thru could be what blew up the previous controller and did this damage.

What job (speed, weight, acceleration, range, etc) does the bike (or whatever) have to do for you, under what specific riding conditions (hills, terrain, road conditions, wind, etc?

What specific drivetrain is between motor and ground?

What was the old controller and how exactly was it wired up?

What is the new controller and how exactly is it wired up?

What is the battery?

LInks to the purchase pages for each item may be helpful
It is a chain drive ebike. The old controller and apparently motor fried after a couple miles on an uphill. The old controller was a Kelly KVD7212nx, the new is a Kelly Kls8420nv, wired exactly the same but wouldn't work, giving phase and hall wiring error, so I checked on the motor after testing the 36 combinations. The battery is 72v 40ah, 100a cont, 300a, idk if those amp ratings are true cause they seem high for the price. I guess I'll just get a beefier motor if this one is fried. I have also added a strong fan that will cool the motor and controller. Just curious, what exactly do you look for and saw in this motor to see if it is fried?
 
First, it got hot enough to not just melt, but actually "fry" and crisp up and char the ziptie(s). Those are usually nylon, so that's very hot, probably over 200C / 400F.

Next, the windings are darkened significantly in some places (not just where the charred nylon has melted around).

The phase wiring (and probably other wiring) appears to have deformed insulation.

It's quite possible for one or more of the windings to have shorted to each other or to the stator laminations, or for wiring to have melted insulation enough to be shorted to each other.

The windings you can test for shorts if you disconnect the WYE connection between them, otherwise they all will normally read shorted thru that connection.

Without disconnecting anything you can test for shorts to the stator laminations.

Note that sometimes the shorts don't happen except while higher voltages are applied, so a regular multimeter wont' read them. For those you'd need a "hipot" tester. (if you get and use one, don't touch the lead tips with your fingers...it's high voltage).


That kind of damage occurs from sustained overheating, which usually happens from sustained overload.


To prevent this you need to know how much power it will actually take to do the worst-case parts of the job you need the system to do, which requires defining that job and the worst case conditions, then using calculators or similators like those at ebikes.ca to find out the power needed.

Once you know the actual required power, you can then buy parts capable of sustaining (not just peak!) that power long enough to complete the worst case parts of the job, without stressing them.


On a chaindrive motor system, gearing is almost everything. If a system is geared incorrectly for the worst-case load, the system will be overstressed or damaged by that load.


Note that a "cooling fan" could mean anything from a slight tiny breeze over part of something that needs cooling to something truly adequate to the job, to something liek a hurricane thru it's insides keeping it at ambient temperatures at all times. Whether what you have is useful or not we couldn't say, as you haven't shown what it is or how it is mounted, it's airflow, etc; all of that is critical to whether it does anything useful to cool things. ;)

Generally unless you are cooling the inside of a motor (airflow thru it) it's not useful for extreme loads on the motor that create too much heat.
 
The Kls Kelly needs to run the "auto ident" function via Bluetooth or PC to get the controller to work. You can't use the 36 hall/ phase combination.
Also check hall sensors with a multimeter. With one probe to ground and the other to one of the three (blue yellow green) hall wires.
Slowly spin the motor and it should cycle between 0 and 5v or so.
The the Kelly PC or Bluetooth app can also show this in the info tab.
 
The Kls Kelly needs to run the "auto ident" function via Bluetooth or PC to get the controller to work. You can't use the 36 hall/ phase combination.
Also check hall sensors with a multimeter. With one probe to ground and the other to one of the three (blue yellow green) hall wires.
Slowly spin the motor and it should cycle between 0 and 5v or so.
The the Kelly PC or Bluetooth app can also show this in the info tab.
thank you, i’ll try this i just bought the cables and a new motor.
 
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