C-SMD1.2 Controller pad functions, Regen, etc. XC8M06 based

[whatever]

sh pin: brake high, I've never had to use it, but it should be cut controller power ( like SL : brake low). It has been discussed previously, I cant remember how it works! Someone else might read this and chime in on that one, one type is volts high engage controller cut off, the other one is volts low engage controller cut off, standard ebike brakes are SL type.
If ds and X connected and you get regen function via SL, should get same if know how to use SH.

 

[whatever]

can confirm I do have a3/a4 party pins.
directly above E4......e4 is reverse ( usually speed limited).....a3/a4 might be select speed of reverse

 

[whatever]

I have some greentime controllers with regen into batts wires connected, at some stage I try to find one and check which pins connect for regen batts.

 

[whatever]

just a pic to show that k3 pin is labelled xx on rear of the board.
I've overlayed the rear onto the front of the board ( reversed the rear overlay so the pins match up if that makes sense)

 

[whatever]

there might be an advance timing pin on these controllers also

 

[whatever]

so it seems huatong controllers are earlier version of greentime controllers, so going over some old threads to see what can be found, as the huatong controller use the same pin names as greentime controllers ( same manufacturer/supplier I guess).
going back to this thread titled:
72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller
link
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29469
On the first page user 'wesnewell' lists the pins and some of the functions:
of note he says 'a3' is 'grey alarm plug'
I will spend some time going over older threads and see what can be found, will take some time

 

[whatever]

regards brake high:
auraslip figured it out in this thread titled:
Changing the LVC in a 72v generic controller
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26306&start=50
he wrote

For activating the ebrake ( high ), it's just 12V positive to the white wire to cut off the controller. Usually this is accomplished by simply wiring it into the brake light circuit (brake light = 12V+ when brakes applied)

also

Yes, brake-hi switches off the controller when you send 12V into it, and it cuts off cruise control too..

so this could mean there is a 12v source on the board for lights?

 

[whatever]

change low voltage cut off detailed in this thread
titled:
Changing the LVC in a 72v generic controller
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26306

 

[whatever]

seems older huatong controllers regen back to batteries done by grounding 'x'
maybe link 'ds' to 'x' is for regen into windings?

 

[whatever]

pin 's+' related to alarm plug connections ( dont come as standard anymore)
from this page on old thread
titled
72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29469&start=50

 

[whatever]

pin 'a3' ( grey wire to alarm plug in old huatong) gives out between 4.2 to 4.6v ( not 5v)
from thread titled
d
72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29469&start=100

 

[whatever]

user Black6spdZ writes

S+ or S- pads (speed sense from fet)

from thread titled
72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller
this page
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29469&start=200

 

[whatever]

wesnewell writes

wiring ground to the SX pad changes the way the throttle works

same thread as above ones
so could XS be same as SX i.e throttle response?

 

[whatever]

relating to pin ZL
from translated chinese text on huatong controller

11 power functions
Controller detects the signal input power (ZL) of pulses, according to the pulse frequency (ie, foot speed) to control
Motor output ratio. Effective power pulse duty cycle must be greater than 60%.

A bit hard to decipher but I think this could be related to very hall sensor timing or higher efficiency at higher speed?

from this thread titled
Hua Tong LVC, 72V 1500V and noname controller
this page
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31946

 

[whatever]

cohberg wrote redarding led flashes
on this thread
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29469&start=525
Blink codes
1 flash: Standby, motor stopped
2 flashes: Throttle input fault or HV brake active
3 flashes: Locked rotor (start speed protection)
4 flashes:
5 flashes: High side FET shorted
6 flashes: Hall sensor fault
7 flashes:
8 flashes: Under voltage (LVC) active[/quote]

 

[amberwolf]

FWIW, this controller is still working normally, as sensorless (doesn't work as sensored no matter what I try), on SB Cruiser with the X5304 in a 20" wheel on the right rear, using a "48v" (58.4v fully charged) pack. Is used at least 5 days a week for work commute and other stuff, including hauling a St. Bernard or two.

EABS and reverse are useful functions on the controller, though the reverse is annoying in that it has to be at a complete stop to work.

EABS is powerful enough between this controller and another similar one (see below) that I can just about stop in one trike length without skidding on dry pavement, between the EABS and the front rim brakes (which take a bit longer to stop it without skidding).


(the left rear is a 9C 2807 in 20" wheel, running off a similar but not identical controller with the same basic type of MCU and functions, which also doens't work sensored but not all the functions in it work like the ones in this one).

 

[whatever]

will controller start from any wheel position? or need a slight wheel movement before it kicks in?

 

[amberwolf]

Sorry, forgot to mention that part--it's reallly annoying, cuz it sometimes requires movement, sometimes it doesn't, when under load. IIRC it always works when off-ground, though. :/

And it does not seem to have to do with the wheel position itself, exactly, because I have tried testing starting with valve stem exactly at bottom of rotation, and moved the wheel one magnet spot over, one at a time, and tried starting and it will sometimes always start no matter where it is, and sometimes it has trouble spots, which are not always in the same place. It doesn't make sense, because AFAIK it should always have the same problem in the same places for sensorless glitches like this.


The other controller, with the same MCU, has the same problem in teh same way (even though it's a different motor on it).

 

[whatever]

I put same controller on a three wheel go kart, same issue, some times would start, sometimes requires some wheel movement,
can be annoying on go kart with chain drive.

 

[amberwolf]

I guess it's a thing with many sensorless controllers (the Fusin "1000w" controllers both 6 and 9 fet have the same problem; it's a geared motor so what happens there is taht it internally bangs back and forth until it decides which direction is forward (the one with more physical resistance), and then it goes.


I wish these things would run with sensors; it's stupid that they don't because they not only have pads for the halls, they actually come with the hall wires installed...they are just pointless cuz they simply won't do anything with the hall information when they *are* connected.

 

[amberwolf]

I finally got around to "upgrading" this to it's actual 40A capability, by adding a fourth shunt (off a dead controller of another type). So now it does about 46A by itself on either an MXUS or HSR3548 on the SB Cruiser trike. Makes a definite difference in acceleration. Makes a small but noticeable increase in the braking force, too.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&p=1322087#p1322087