minde28383
10 kW
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2010
- Messages
- 702
If it was manufacturing defect it would be broken long ago.
Cagiva Supermoto Bulid (4kW Legal)
- Thread starter Bikebrap
- Start date
minde28383
10 kW
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2010
- Messages
- 702
QS 3000W mid drive is about ~56Nm before it stalls with 400A phase.
There is very similar motor and is used by Denzel. Denzel motor is capable of 100 km/h with their cafe racer and probably some Kelly controller.
QS mid motor needs controller other than Kelly 72300 or Sabvoton 72150 to show its full potential.
Qs are coupling Votol controller with this motor. This votol is more powerful, and is capable for mid drive rpms.
Denzel is little bit shorter and has teeth for motorcycle sprocket. Other than that qs mid dirve slightly longer, heavier, more mass, few Nm more, and it is better quality inside and outside. Don't get me wrong. Denzel mid motor is also good.
QS mid motor with 72v:
No flux 4500rpm
with flux 6000rpm (if i remember)
For full potential it needs quite big ratio and small wheels, but I saw somebody run it with 5:1 ratio with 17inch rims and it works. I think it is installed in similar like your bike somewhere in this forum.
Also I heard that qs some time ago were planing to run this motor with big wheels but they did not come up with any big bike yet.
There is very similar motor and is used by Denzel. Denzel motor is capable of 100 km/h with their cafe racer and probably some Kelly controller.
QS mid motor needs controller other than Kelly 72300 or Sabvoton 72150 to show its full potential.
Qs are coupling Votol controller with this motor. This votol is more powerful, and is capable for mid drive rpms.
Denzel is little bit shorter and has teeth for motorcycle sprocket. Other than that qs mid dirve slightly longer, heavier, more mass, few Nm more, and it is better quality inside and outside. Don't get me wrong. Denzel mid motor is also good.
QS mid motor with 72v:
No flux 4500rpm
with flux 6000rpm (if i remember)
For full potential it needs quite big ratio and small wheels, but I saw somebody run it with 5:1 ratio with 17inch rims and it works. I think it is installed in similar like your bike somewhere in this forum.
Also I heard that qs some time ago were planing to run this motor with big wheels but they did not come up with any big bike yet.
Yes, of course. But what caused it to rub against a stator in the first place.fechter said:
When the motor arrived the shaft/rotor was pushed inside and touching the back stator. I was not able to spin the shaft by hand. So i managed to put it back in the middle, and replaced seeger ring on the shaft that secured that position (it bas bent). Seller and I concluded that it was due to shipping, he said it was spinning free before shiping. I never oppened motor till now.
mcstar
100 W
Wow, I'm glad I read to the end of this thread as I have the same motor and think I can answer your question about "why was it rubbing on the stator". So, the design of these motors as you've noticed is a bit odd. Since there are 2 stators and they surround and enclose the rotor almost completely, they must be correctly aligned and "pulled apart" by the 8 center bolts on the front and back of the motor (4 in front and 4 in back, the large ones that screw into the stators). When done correctly, the stators will be slightly separated from the rotor and held at the correct gap distance by the bolts. I ran into this when I put my own motor back together after attempting to find a place to my hall sensors for uvw mode. When I first assembled it, I did not get those bolts tightened correctly and my stators were squeezing tight against the rotor... it would not move at all until I realized the stators must be pulled evenly apart by tension from the bolts on the outer shell. I used a low torque setting on my power driver and slowly worked around each bolt. Then I raised the torque setting a bit, and worked around each again. I repeated this until the rotor spun freely and the gap was visible from the top access panel.
Interestingly this design does allow for increased gap adjustment to reduce cogging drag, or decreased gap to give more torque.
Here's a picture of my stators before adjustment, with no gap (rotor frozen).
Here's what it looked like with a better gap and spinning freely...
View attachment 3
In your case it appears that on one side there was little or no gap there was some dragging friction from the stator against the outer edge of the rotor. This friction caused enough heat to break down your magnets. It's a bit tricky as you can only see the top of the rotor with the little door on the top open, so its important to torque the 4 bolts on each side evenly and with a torque gauge if possible. Or at least do a careful test of free spinning before riding I suppose.
I do feel for you man as you have a ton of work on that bike so far. Those motors are still floating around here and there on the internet, so you should be able to find a replacement online. I'm considering adding fans and/or water cooling and a throttle reduce routine if the temp goes up on mine just in case to protect the motor.
I am interested to know if you have the cad or stl files for that hall mount you made? At this point I'm still working on my commutation method. I tried to use the sensor circuit it came with and got my arduino to communicate with it, but the signal was very bad and the position data jumped around all over the place. I think the communication protocol is wonky, or I just have no idea how to get the serial clk timed right. This has stalled my progress as I look for a better commutation method. I was able to get a cheap bike controller to drive the motor without feedback, but it's not going to work for real riding.
Interestingly this design does allow for increased gap adjustment to reduce cogging drag, or decreased gap to give more torque.
Here's a picture of my stators before adjustment, with no gap (rotor frozen).
Here's what it looked like with a better gap and spinning freely...
View attachment 3
In your case it appears that on one side there was little or no gap there was some dragging friction from the stator against the outer edge of the rotor. This friction caused enough heat to break down your magnets. It's a bit tricky as you can only see the top of the rotor with the little door on the top open, so its important to torque the 4 bolts on each side evenly and with a torque gauge if possible. Or at least do a careful test of free spinning before riding I suppose.
I do feel for you man as you have a ton of work on that bike so far. Those motors are still floating around here and there on the internet, so you should be able to find a replacement online. I'm considering adding fans and/or water cooling and a throttle reduce routine if the temp goes up on mine just in case to protect the motor.
I am interested to know if you have the cad or stl files for that hall mount you made? At this point I'm still working on my commutation method. I tried to use the sensor circuit it came with and got my arduino to communicate with it, but the signal was very bad and the position data jumped around all over the place. I think the communication protocol is wonky, or I just have no idea how to get the serial clk timed right. This has stalled my progress as I look for a better commutation method. I was able to get a cheap bike controller to drive the motor without feedback, but it's not going to work for real riding.
Attachments
I'm done with this Heinzman motor, but I can send you .stl for Hall sensor mcstar.
I bought and installed new QS 3000W mid motor and it goes like crazy.
I only ride at 80% torque (Kelly controler) because it is more than enough. Any more than that and it wheelies as soon as you twist the trottle. Motor and controller are both ice cold. Motor goes to 55-75°C and kelly around 35°C.
Now I have double the range because none of the energy is wasted to heat as with old motor and controller.
View attachment 1
I bought and installed new QS 3000W mid motor and it goes like crazy.
I only ride at 80% torque (Kelly controler) because it is more than enough. Any more than that and it wheelies as soon as you twist the trottle. Motor and controller are both ice cold. Motor goes to 55-75°C and kelly around 35°C.
Now I have double the range because none of the energy is wasted to heat as with old motor and controller.
View attachment 1
Grantmac
10 kW
How much power are you pushing through the QS3000? Max speed?
larsb
1 MW
Nice to see more QS3000w users. Awesome conversion!
SlowCo
1 MW
Nice build!
Is there any more info (build thread) on the Formula Student car in the back ground? Is it electric?
Is there any more info (build thread) on the Formula Student car in the back ground? Is it electric?
Thanks all !
Power is 4kW, and top speed 45 km/h of course
There is no build thread, but there's a web page and all the rest.
Yes, of course it's electric, I was electric powertrain team lead for that formula
https://www.fsb-racing.com/
https://www.facebook.com/FSBRacing/?ref=br_rs
https://www.youtube.com/user/FSBracingteam1
https://www.instagram.com/fsbracingteam/
Power is 4kW, and top speed 45 km/h of course
There is no build thread, but there's a web page and all the rest.
Yes, of course it's electric, I was electric powertrain team lead for that formula
https://www.fsb-racing.com/
https://www.facebook.com/FSBRacing/?ref=br_rs
https://www.youtube.com/user/FSBracingteam1
https://www.instagram.com/fsbracingteam/
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