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Cannot find working phase / hall combination using Stromer motor with Votol em50-4

5kr3wf4c3

100 µW
Joined
Aug 2, 2022
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7
Hello ES, I have a problem and I’m not sure why.

I have a Stromer hub motor from a st1 thomus model ebike. I am trying to get it going using a Votol em 50-4 controller running with a lithium pack around 30ah at 72 volts nominal. So I opened the hub by unlacing it from rim, pulled cover, and removed the stock built in controller. after running wires through axle I checked and there is no continuity/short from hub to any phase or hall wire. i connect controller and can only get the motor to jerk very harshly forward, or backward as I gave about quarter or less throttle for about half a second. When the wheel stopped throttle wouldn’t work until I hand rotated the wheel a little and then the behaviour repeats. I tried all 36 combinations of phase and hall Sensors following John in cr’s chart I found here. No combo seemed to work, sometimes motor would violently lurch in one direction, or the other, some combos got nothing, some got a tiny jitter followed by a quiet buzzing or static like sound for couple seconds After I release the throttle. I think it came from the motor.? hadn’t had that before or maybe just never heard it..

I don’t know about the motor electrical angl…. Can this be due to a mismatch? Controller is brand new so hopefully not faulty.. checked throttle, motor was working fine stock so no reason to suspect it’s damaged but I will double check halls.

Anybody have an idea?
 
The Stromer motors are made by Ultramotor (now TDCM) and they're pretty standard internally, other than the controller puck that you're not using.

If your Votol is an FOC controller, have you setup and tuned it to the specific motor, battery, etc that you're using? If not, it's not going to be able to operate the controller.

I have two similar UM's from A2B bikes that I'm running on versions of the Phaserunner from ebikes.ca, and this thread:
has the autotune numbers for each of those that the PR's detected, which may be useful for comparing to your setup or doing manual configuration.

I've also used an actual ex-Stromer UM on a generic controller as sensorless just fine. I broke one side of it's axle or it'd still be on the SB Cruiser trike, and tested on one of those PR's, and I'd have values for it. It's built the same inside as the A2B versions, so it is the same low number of poles, though the winding may be different so the kV, resistance, and inductance may be different.

Have you verified that the hall sensors are working correctly? Meaning that while hooked up to the controller, and manually turning the motor by hand one "click" at a time, you can see that each sensor transitions from nearly zero volts to nearly 5v, or vice-versa. If any of them does not transition this way, and is "stuck" at some value, either it isn't getting pullup voltage from the controller (when you see them stuck on, at near zero volts) or isn't turning on (when you see them stuck near 5v).
 
I actually have not tuned the controller , as I didnt get one of those usb programming cables. That actually may be it then? I ran an votol em100 before without any setup from computer but I guess because it was a qsmotor it didn’t trip out? I will verify halls, but unless I damaged one when removing controller they all worked fine before… I’m thinking as you mentioned the software could be the issue because I tried to plug and play. I’m not sure if I have an FOC controller, I see it being advertised as one but maybe it’s simulated? No idea actually.. Could I make My own programming cable if I connect the programming wires to a usb which I cut and splice into ? Rx to Rx and tx to tx? or how would I go about this?

also your stromer motors were 120 degrees? hoping mine is not 60 and that is the issue… this I have no idea how to tell..

thanks for your help
 
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I actually have not tuned the controller , as I didnt get one of those usb programming cables. That actually may be it then? I ran an votol em100 before without any setup from computer but I guess because it was a qsmotor it didn’t trip out? I will verify halls, but unless I damaged one when removing controller they all worked fine before… I’m thinking as you mentioned the software could be the issue because I tried to plug and play. I’m not sure if I have an FOC controller, I see it being advertised as one but maybe it’s simulated?
If the Votol site or it's manual says it's FOC, then that's probably what it is, and it has to be setup for each motor, battery, etc that is used with it, or it doens't know how to operate the motor.

If it was previously setup for a different motor (did it come as part of a kit?) then it will only operate the same motor version and type without being re-setup for a new one.

No idea actually.. Could I make My own programming cable if I connect the programming wires to a usb which I cut and splice into ? Rx to Rx and tx to tx? or how would I go about this?
You'd need to know which pins are which on the Votol controller end, and then use a compatible type of USB-serial cable wired between your computer's USB port and the controller's serial port, and install the drivers for the USB-serial cable in your computer per the cable's directions.

There are several types of serial; the manual should say which one it uses, but it's probably RS232 of some type, but there are 5v, 3.3v, and ohter voltage levels used, so you have to check the manual for which voltage it uses at the controller pins before you connect one.


also your stromer motors were 120 degrees? hoping mine is not 60 and that is the issue… this I have no idea how to tell..
All the UMs I have are 120; almost all ebike hubmotors are. 60s are very uncommon. But an FOC controller won't care; it should just detect which hall pattern it gets and figure out how to use the signals it gets to correclty drive the motor, when it's autotuning it. If it doesn't have that ability, you have to tell it which one it's connected to, and possibly even figure out the right phase/hall wiring combination to use...but I don't imagine any FOC controller made these days would require that--it should be able to figure it out itself. Even Kelly controllers can usually manage that. ;)


When you test the halls and note down their switching pattern, the 60 pattern is different from the 120. There's a number of pages out there that explain the differneces in various ways, some here on ES and plenty elsewhere; some are in this search

Mostly for 60 hall motors they just flip the center hall over vs the other two, but some use a different actual sensor that just uses the opposite output response from the other two for the same magnetic field.
 
If the Votol site or it's manual says it's FOC, then that's probably what it is, and it has to be setup for each motor, battery, etc that is used with it, or it doens't know how to operate the motor.

If it was previously setup for a different motor (did it come as part of a kit?) then it will only operate the same motor version and type without being re-setup for a new one.


You'd need to know which pins are which on the Votol controller end, and then use a compatible type of USB-serial cable wired between your computer's USB port and the controller's serial port, and install the drivers for the USB-serial cable in your computer per the cable's directions.

There are several types of serial; the manual should say which one it uses, but it's probably RS232 of some type, but there are 5v, 3.3v, and ohter voltage levels used, so you have to check the manual for which voltage it uses at the controller pins before you connect one.



All the UMs I have are 120; almost all ebike hubmotors are. 60s are very uncommon. But an FOC controller won't care; it should just detect which hall pattern it gets and figure out how to use the signals it gets to correclty drive the motor, when it's autotuning it. If it doesn't have that ability, you have to tell it which one it's connected to, and possibly even figure out the right phase/hall wiring combination to use...but I don't imagine any FOC controller made these days would require that--it should be able to figure it out itself. Even Kelly controllers can usually manage that. ;)


When you test the halls and note down their switching pattern, the 60 pattern is different from the 120. There's a number of pages out there that explain the differneces in various ways, some here on ES and plenty elsewhere; some are in this search

Mostly for 60 hall motors they just flip the center hall over vs the other two, but some use a different actual sensor that just uses the opposite output response from the other two for the same magnetic field.

hey I appreciate your time, I’ll try setting up / programming controller then - thanks for the help!
 
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