Regardless of class and ratings, it's always a good practice to inspect your hitch package and accessories on a regular basis. My son-in-law ruined a drawbar and ball by ignoring the subtle "clunk" when towing his boat, thinking it was jus typical minor slack in the receiver. Such subtle noises usually get worse without much notice by the regular operator, till they fail. While only the drawbar and ball required replacement, regular inspection and maintenance could have saved the expense. And fortunately it wasn't worse!
It's best not to exceed the recommended ratings of BOTH, vehicle and hitch package. This includes other hitch accessories, such racks and carriers, that are designed with specific considerations of everything involved. The coupling/tubes and securing pins are the strongest components, able to withstand the shocks, stresses and wear due to the necessary clearances that cause that inherent "clunk" and "rattle" with bump, stop-and-go and sway. Support strapping of carriers and racks help, but are usually unnecessary other than to secure the bikes and loads.
OTHER components of the hitch/carrier assemblies, are of much more concern. Supports, brackets, bolts, frame attachment points, vehicle suspension, even bolt holes,... are critical points of design ratings. You simply CAN NOT drill bigger holes for heaver, stronger bolts without compromising other critical components of the design. And putting a 2" adapter on a 1 1/2" receiver DOES NOT mean you can use heaver accessories. This is FAR more important with todays vehicle designs of integrated frames, independent rear suspension and "fake bumpers", and were of much less concern with cars of older classic frame designs and solid sprung axles. Loads of 200lbs ON the hitch are much different than 200lbs on a rack, carrier, hitch extension, adapter or anywhere else! Racks and carriers are rated with those considerations in design, as well as those vehicle limitations. Hence, the limited availability of such equipment for some vehicles such as yours, AND those rated limitations.
If your pushin those limits of weight and road conditions, it's all the more reason to closely inspect EVERYTHING about your setup each and EVERYTIME your usin' it.
BTW,.... I live year around in 34' motor home, and my heavy, "modified" 29" beach-cruiser is my main mode of transport when not travelin' about the country. The "heavy duty hitch" package is 12' behind the Freightliner rear axle on a pretty hefty John Deere frame. That 12' space ALSO supports the 100-gal water tank, TWO 45-gal waste tanks AND a 90gal fuel tank, not to mention the large rear storage bays below. While the hitch package is probably fine for towing an auxiliary vehicle or light trailer, you can probably imagine what effect a 200lb load, cantilevered load way out back, BEYOUND the rear ladder, would be like. While I AM considering something within reason, there's much to carefully think about here. I usually travel long distances as "dry" as possible, and those rear bays carry my lightest needs (my "equipped garage", with tools, welder, tanks, etc., is more centrally upfront). This is certainly "a big heavy truck", but load balance still has to considered. And for now,.... my bike travels either in the "front living room" or the rear "hallway" above the back axle. Heck, I live alone in this, but that bike is pretty damned heavy getting up and down the stairway of my "upstairs apartment on wheels"!!!
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