Castle HV160 Controller vs Sensored (Hall vs Optical)

Go with a mamba pro if you are looking at that route. It is a bit bigger, but has an auto fan, sensor port, and a much lower price point. http://holmeshobbies.com/product.php?productid=332&cat=2&page=1 It will do 70a reliably, and also has a crude amp limiting feature in the newest firmware.


Luke,

The amp ratings are put on there because everyone else does it. Without some sort of amp rating people don't know how it fits in with the rest. Of course, just about all companies rate from the FET spec sheets with infinite thermal transfer, so it is par for the course to do the same.

A few companies bench test as well, but of course those specs are not as impressive.
 
johnrobholmes said:
Luke,

The amp ratings are put on there because everyone else does it. Without some sort of amp rating people don't know how it fits in with the rest. Of course, just about all companies rate from the FET spec sheets with infinite thermal transfer, so it is par for the course to do the same.

A few companies bench test as well, but of course those specs are not as impressive.


I'm sure they do all do it, but It doesn't make it not pure horse shit though John. Going by this method, we could put 30v rated FETs in a 6-fet infinion and call it a 280amp controller*

*based on datasheet absolutely meaningless continuous current spec that has no bearing in reality and actually would crap out at under 50amps for an extended period even with a magic perfect heatsink, but COULD do 280amps phase current for bursts of a few seconds at a time. :mrgreen:
 
Exactly. A few of the more upstanding companies complain about it in private, but what can you do to change the whole industry practice? R/C folk are mostly uneducated, and don't have the ability to even know what their system is doing.
 
Considering these RC car controllers, would it be possible to add caps and 50 volt components to up the voltage rating? Or would the PIC not allow it?

Also, are there any new robot controllers that run higher voltage? I don't think "Baytlebots are as popular as they once were, so no real progress made in this niche, but if MIT and other universitys are battling it out, maybe they have developed new tech. :?
 
etard said:
Considering these RC car controllers, would it be possible to add caps and 50 volt components to up the voltage rating? Or would the PIC not allow it?

No reason it couldn't be done with separated DC/DC converters to run external gate drivers, an external FET stage, and something to step down voltage to the old controllers brain. The only problem is the lack of current control/sense ability. The few RC controllers that even try to sense/control current can't use shunts for size/cooling reasons, so they end up doing some hokey-pokey rds-on v-drop stuff to estimate current, and it tends to read high by a factor of 2-3x as the device warms up. lol
 
johnrobholmes said:
Go with a mamba pro if you are looking at that route. It is a bit bigger, but has an auto fan, sensor port, and a much lower price point. http://holmeshobbies.com/product.php?productid=332&cat=2&page=1 It will do 70a reliably, and also has a crude amp limiting feature in the newest firmware. .

Thanks for the info John, .
Has anyone actually tried these ESC's on a sensored Ebike motor ? ... i dont want to be a "test pilot" if others have crashed and burned before on this ! :lol:
Its not that i want to go this route, i simply want to find a solid reliable (electrical) drive system for a friction drive unit that overcomes the sync issues .
I would rather avoid DIY hall sensor installation but i dont see any guaranteed sensorless route other than possible the CC HV160 ..but that would be a high dollar gamble !
Conversely with sensored systems , there seems to be few options for low voltage (18 -22v), controllers that will operate at the current levels required :roll: :? :cry:
 
It is a gamble any way you go with the small RC stuff anyway. If you want to try one out, I can work with you on the unit if it doesn't work.

What are your speed goals for the system?
 
I am only wanting a reliable assist type drive for hills etc so 20-25mph will be more than enough, I know from tests with this 63mm , 250 kv, motor that even with only 5s, it may end up being slightly more. really a lower KV motor or a smaller dia motor would be better suited i guess.
Thanks for the offer of support John, but as i am in Kangaroo land, it probably not too practical !
.. i may come back to you for that ESC though,... if i decide to try that route.
 
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