chain lenght

[MK_1981]

Hi all,

I need advice about measuring a new chain.

Bike is hardtail (Nakamura Catch 54), front 44t stock chainring (tsdz8), chain Shimano CN-LG500, Shimano CUES RD-U4020 9spd rear derailler (11-36t).

On some manuals shimano says add 2-3 links+missing link, on some it says 4-5+missing link. which one is correct?

Currently I'm on 5+quick link. I don't see any slack when in highest gear on the back.

thx.

 

[ferret]

On a hardtail, as long as there some slack on the chain when it is on the biggest cog, everything is ok.
Adding some links is only required on full suspension bikes because, as the suspension compresses, the distance between the chainring and the rear wheel changes and the chain needs to be long enough to compensate for it.

Avner.

 

[MK_1981]

So what's the conclusion? keep the rule 2/3 links + missing link? When I cut it's over so I gotta be sure

 

[n00b]

Hi all,

I need advice about measuring a new chain.

Bike is hardtail (Nakamura Catch 54), front 44t stock chainring (tsdz8), chain Shimano CN-LG500, Shimano CUES RD-U4020 9spd rear derailler (11-36t).

On some manuals shimano says add 2-3 links+missing link, on some it says 4-5+missing link. which one is correct?

Currently I'm on 5+quick link. I don't see any slack when in highest gear on the back.

thx.

110-115 links. That's standard chain size stuff.
The max would be like, 54-38. Long as it isn't too tight in the lowest gear or too loose in the highest, should be fine.
Get a quick-link tool, then dry-fit it and see what's going on.
If it's floppy on the the highest gear, twist with your fingers to see how much and eyeball it.
Derailleurs play a part, too. Long cage vs. short cage changes things.
I run CUES long cages with an 11-51 in the back, but lock it out to 46, with a 42 in front.
Gotta use a derailleur extender for that.
44-36 should be standard chain and you shouldn't have to do anything.
Maybe clean it and hot wax it.

 

[RunForTheHills]

You wrap the chain around the biggest rear cog, through the derailleur, and around the chainring. It needs to be that long plus two links.

Chain Length Sizing

 

[offGridDownUnder]

When I cut it's over so I gotta be sure

No problem.

Start with the largest estimate. Cut to that length. Assemble. Ride the bicycle.

Figure it out from there. You have already cut the chain, so you have the technology. You can do it again.

Don't cut the chain again without spending some time playing with the other adjustments to ensure you've dialed the other parts of the system in - the goal is to know why what you do what you do.

If that does not interest you, take it to the LBS (local bike shop). The LBS tax pays to keep the expertise available in the community - it's a good investment. It can pay off for you.

 

[docw009]

When I cut it's over so I gotta be sure

You don't really cut it when you use a chain breaker. KMC and the bike experts tell you not to reassemble the link, as it might bind or break, but until I read that on the net, I would put them back together w/o binding. Easier with a quik-Link though,

 

[offGridDownUnder]

Easier with a quik-Link though

Expanding on this. I ride a tadpole trike, so use long chains. I can find long lengths, but it's easy to buy 3 chains and link them. I have no problem with multiple quick-links on my chain and I can splice a short section in that way if I want to lengthen a chain.

I am old enough to have spliced chains by pushing the pins out and back in using the chain tool.

1. Push the pin out but not entirely out of the outer link.
2. Reverse the chain in the tool.
3. Seat the other chain end into the tool inside the links.
4. Push the pin back all the way.
5. Reverse the chain in the tool.
6. Relieve the spacing of the chain plates with the tool to release the binding.
7. Ride it like a new chain.

FWIW,

 

[OlderGiantFan]

So what's the conclusion? keep the rule 2/3 links + missing link? When I cut it's over so I gotta be sure

Can't you just lay the old chain beside the new chain and use it as a template?