christurner05
1 mW
So my stand up scooter has a 48v 18ah batterie with a 48v 20A speed controller, and a direct drive hub motor rated for 1200w continuous. What would happen if I were to switch the speed controller out for a 60v 30A controller?
Changing my 48v 20A controller
- Thread starter christurner05
- Start date
That depends on what do you need the scooter to do for you, under what riding conditions.
For instance, how fast does it need to go, for what distance, over what kind of hills of what slope and length and proportion to the distances that are flat, against what winds, on what kinds of surfaces, under what traffic conditions, and with what total weight of rider and scooter and anything else your'e carrying?
How fast and far does it go under the same conditions with the existing setup? Does it do what you need it to already?
You can use the custom settings of calculators and simulators like those at ebikes.ca in the Tools section, along with the conditions you have there, to find how how much power it will take to do a specific job under those conditions, and how much battery capacity is needed to do that job for the distance you need to go. It will take some time and effort at experimenting to learn how they work and what info to put in, but it is worth doing to ensure you get the right parts the first time to do the job you need done.
In general, the consequences of changing the controller for a bigger one:
You'll need a whole new battery that has the higher voltage for the new controller, and can supply all the current the new controller will need, and has enough capacity to provide that for the entire distance you have to travel. If you're going faster speeds or otherwise using more power than before, you will get proportionally less range out of the same capacity (Wh) battery. (wh = Ah x V).
If you have a display that depends on the old controller's functions, you'll have to change that out for the one that comes with the new controller. If you don't get the display with the new controller as a kit, but want a display, you'll need to be sure to get the right display for the new controller. Some contorllers don't support displays, most only support very specific ones, so it's safest to get one as a kit.
If you have other accessories (like a DC-DC converter to make 12v for lights, horn, etc, or lights/etc directly powered from the battery) that depend on the old battery voltage, you'll have to change those too.
For instance, how fast does it need to go, for what distance, over what kind of hills of what slope and length and proportion to the distances that are flat, against what winds, on what kinds of surfaces, under what traffic conditions, and with what total weight of rider and scooter and anything else your'e carrying?
How fast and far does it go under the same conditions with the existing setup? Does it do what you need it to already?
You can use the custom settings of calculators and simulators like those at ebikes.ca in the Tools section, along with the conditions you have there, to find how how much power it will take to do a specific job under those conditions, and how much battery capacity is needed to do that job for the distance you need to go. It will take some time and effort at experimenting to learn how they work and what info to put in, but it is worth doing to ensure you get the right parts the first time to do the job you need done.
In general, the consequences of changing the controller for a bigger one:
You'll need a whole new battery that has the higher voltage for the new controller, and can supply all the current the new controller will need, and has enough capacity to provide that for the entire distance you have to travel. If you're going faster speeds or otherwise using more power than before, you will get proportionally less range out of the same capacity (Wh) battery. (wh = Ah x V).
If you have a display that depends on the old controller's functions, you'll have to change that out for the one that comes with the new controller. If you don't get the display with the new controller as a kit, but want a display, you'll need to be sure to get the right display for the new controller. Some contorllers don't support displays, most only support very specific ones, so it's safest to get one as a kit.
If you have other accessories (like a DC-DC converter to make 12v for lights, horn, etc, or lights/etc directly powered from the battery) that depend on the old battery voltage, you'll have to change those too.
christurner05
1 mW
The speed as it is rite now is fast enough for me I just need it to go up hills better it can barely handle a 4% grade incline with me on it (I'm 213 pounds)
christurner05
1 mW
I can be going full speed (25 - 30 kms) on flat surface about to go up hill slightly and the speed quickly drops from 25 to 20 to 17 to 14 to 8 and so on , and if the hill is more than 10-15% grade it just dies out . Can't handle it.
christurner05
1 mW
But again I'm just simply asking what would happen to my 48v 18AH batterie if I were to use a 60v 30A controller?
Nothing, since you wouldn't be using it anymore.
As I already said in the first reply, you'd have to replace it with a battery that is the higher voltage for the new controller, and can supply all the current the new controller will need, and has enough capacity to provide that for the entire distance you have to travel. And that if you're going faster speeds or otherwise using more power than before, you will get proportionally less range out of the same capacity (Wh) battery. (wh = Ah x V).
As I already said in the first reply, you'd have to replace it with a battery that is the higher voltage for the new controller, and can supply all the current the new controller will need, and has enough capacity to provide that for the entire distance you have to travel. And that if you're going faster speeds or otherwise using more power than before, you will get proportionally less range out of the same capacity (Wh) battery. (wh = Ah x V).
According to this rough simulation
ebikes.ca
you can go about 25mph with under 800w of motor power, which is just under 1000w of battery power (efficiency losses in system), with around 36wh/mile capacity usage.
That assumes the default riding position and motor and wheel sizes in the simulator, and using the max weight already listed in the dropdown; not knowing your riding position or wheel size or motor type or scooter weight I couldn't put those in, but you can use the link above and modify the simulation to better match your actual stuff for a more accurate simulation.
At a 15% grade it wont' even move according to the simulation.
ebikes.ca
upping it to a 60v system at 30A it still won;t move on 15% grade
ebikes.ca
Going to 100A it'll go 16mph up 15%
ebikes.ca
but it's taking about 4kw to do it and almost 240wh/mile so your motor would overheat in a couple of minutes or less, and your battery, assuming 60v 20Ah (1200wh) would last about 5 miles of that kind of hill climbing.
So...if it takes about 4kw to go 16mph then if that's fast enough for you you can change your motor wheel out to something big enough to handle 4kw minimum from QSmotors (if they have one that will fit in your wheel size and dropouts, whatever those are).
Then change the controller to something that can handle at least 100A.
Then change the battery to something that can supply at least 100A, and has enough capacity to get you as far as you need to go.
Motor Simulator - Tools
Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...
ebikes.ca
That assumes the default riding position and motor and wheel sizes in the simulator, and using the max weight already listed in the dropdown; not knowing your riding position or wheel size or motor type or scooter weight I couldn't put those in, but you can use the link above and modify the simulation to better match your actual stuff for a more accurate simulation.
At a 15% grade it wont' even move according to the simulation.
Motor Simulator - Tools
Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...
ebikes.ca
upping it to a 60v system at 30A it still won;t move on 15% grade
Motor Simulator - Tools
Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...
ebikes.ca
Going to 100A it'll go 16mph up 15%
Motor Simulator - Tools
Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...
ebikes.ca
So...if it takes about 4kw to go 16mph then if that's fast enough for you you can change your motor wheel out to something big enough to handle 4kw minimum from QSmotors (if they have one that will fit in your wheel size and dropouts, whatever those are).
Then change the controller to something that can handle at least 100A.
Then change the battery to something that can supply at least 100A, and has enough capacity to get you as far as you need to go.
The 60V controller will have a low voltage cutoff of somewhere between 48V-50V, so when your 48V battery falls below that, the controller will shutdown, so you'll only be able to use a smaller part of your battery's capacity.
That's assuming it can handle the much higher current required by the new controller long enouggh to climb the hills, without sagging so much in voltage that it just turns off trying to.
2Phast2Delirious
100 W
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2022
- Messages
- 105
What you need is a 48v 2000w 50a brushless controller with LCD display kit. The additional amps won't cause any problems for your motor. On the internet, it costs between $120-$150. I went from 24mph to 35mph gps verfied. I personally like the half-twist throttle, but you can also choose the modern trigger style.
Voltage = RPM/Top Speed
Amps = Torque/Acelleration
Voltage = RPM/Top Speed
Amps = Torque/Acelleration
Last edited:
But they could for the present battery.
(and still could for the present motor if the system does draw the full current at high load (like up the hills) long enough).