Cold motors put out MORE POWER! (efficiently, too)

[safe]

Perm makes synchronous motors in both varieties; the water cooled units develop about 25% more power.

How about a link on this?

 

[safe]

I went to the website from Germany and downloaed the pdf. This is from that pdf file.

The motor is in part made of PLASTIC! (which might be a great idea)

 

[TylerDurden]

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8)

 

[Reid Welch]

I started using forced air cooling to keep my little Zappy motor from melting while going up a hill. I had no idea it was making it more efficient at the same time.

A larger motor for the Zappy was not really an option, since I did not have a welder, nor did I want to change the outward appearance (can you say sleeper?)

For a brushed motor, blowing air over the windings is the only practical approach to cooling. The idea is to extract heat from the copper, so anything on the outside of the motor is going to be fairly ineffective.

Without the air cooling, the windings got really really hot. Perhaps the improvement in efficiency by keeping them cooler might offset the power drain of the blower.

If we had superconducting motors, then there would be no heat to dissipate. Wouldn't that be nice. The more efficient the motor is, the less heat you have to blow off. I noticed a significantly less amount of heat from my BMC brushless motor compared to the stock Vego brushed motor running at the same power level.

Oh, I'm so sold on that truth.

I've got a cruiser bike (Currie Mongoose) with the outboard-mounted, brushed Unite MY1018 motor. And it's a hot-running motor if overvolted as I do.

Your blower technique saves my motor windings.
We also learned some months ago that:

-carbon brushes require humidity presence for good commutation.
Absent water vapor, the commutator will quickly destruct.

-Liberal air-over cooling is the only way to cool rotating windings most efficiently. Liquid cooling? Is only an intermediate step (the liquid is only a transfer medium; the heat must be put off to the air in the end). We can't run the rotor immersed in water (because of the drag, really, is all)
So--a blast of outside air, regular atmospheric air and lots of it, preferably humidified.

Humidified? Why? Well, it will aid commutation. Think how DRY a sealed motor becomes inside when it runs warmer and warmer.
I can imagine the relative humidity goes very low at 80C. Hmmm....

but, the main reason for air-over cooling with damp air: damp air carries off MUCH more heat than dry air.

How to make a damp cold air supply? Well, what could be simpler or cheaper than the blower drawing its air from an ice box. Ice cubes.

They say, never put a horse away wet. Heh! So, on the home run, turn off the iced-air supply; go to plain air, to give the motor a dry-out for a few minutes or more.

For real cold air? Add some dry ice, or inject auto freon to make that steep hill with power, eh? But, if your motor is brushed, I don't think super chilling with total-air replacement anhydrous )no water!( CO2, or freon, would be wise, not even for several minutes.
That's just my gut feeling about how quick a commutator will start to score and arc.

And were it not for the corrosion risk, salted ice gets very cold indeed.
Ice Scream Machine, anyone?

 

[Malcolm]

Add some dry ice, or inject auto freon to make that steep hill with power

Shame on you Reid! Here's all us tree-hugging tinkerers trying to save the planet and you're blasting even more CO2 and freon into the atmosphere!
The solution is simple, at least in winter, you use a sucker fan (as opposed to a blower) and pipe the warm exhaust air into a one-piece overall with gaiters at the neck, wrists and ankles. While everyone else is freezing their gonads off, you ride around in perfect comfort wearing a self-satisfied grin