Comment, criticize my build. But be nice I’m new!

Wonder why louder. Maybe the rear sprocket pitch doesn’t match the chain

Getting all ur battery weight in or under the frame triangle would be ideal.

I’m printing a box right now that bolts onto the frame tube and holds the battery. I’m finding 3d printers are available at a lot of libraries these days. If they have a bed big enough is an issue though. If u pay for filament I’d print it for u and I got a 350x350 bed.


I dont know your controller but if u get a vesc regen is easy to set up u need a two-way throttle or something
What is meant by pitch again?

That's really nice of you, I might have to take you up on it. Right now all the cells are inside individual "scooter" packs that are hard plastic cased. And I've got 3 packs in each orange box. They are about 13"x4x3 each. You think Id need take them out of their hard cases to save space?
 
What? Public library with 3D printers for public use?
The Marin city and Tiburon library both have Makers Spaces with printers and also laser cutters. There’s also Noisebridge in the mission with lots of different kinds of tools n printers


These are pla filament below and maybe like $7 each in material. They’re just testers for fit and then will try to print polycarbonate with carbon in it. Or on YouTube I see it’s not worth trying to print these high temp finicky materials and instead just add carbon or something with epoxy. I might do a layer inside of NOT carbon as it’s conductive but Kevlar (good safety feature)
 
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What is meant by pitch again?

That's really nice of you, I might have to take you up on it. Right now all the cells are inside individual "scooter" packs that are hard plastic cased. And I've got 3 packs in each orange box. They are about 13"x4x3 each. You think Id need take them out of their hard cases to save space?
Pitch being distance between pins

I dont know about ur battery and what would fit. I imagine ideal would be one case that clamps on ur down tube. If u design it I’ll print it. Yea you’d probably want to open the packs u have and reorient and likely reweld or maybe use copper n magnets. There’s some great deals on lifepo4 cells (gotion) someone on the forum is selling a buck each n he lives like an hour and a half north. Safe chemistry and big cells to make assembly easy.


I know u already have an esc but with a vesc it’ll be easy to adjust things and fit on the side of the box easier. The other holes are a charge port “dc jack” and loopkey with qs8 anti spark plug to turn on and off. Will be waterproof IMG_2689.jpeg
 

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The increased noise with the larger rear sprocket is to be expected.

The higher the gear ratio gets the more chain speed you have per road speed.

You also get higher chain speed than before at lower speeds where the wind is not covering the chain noise.
 
Only time I really hear chain noise on a reasonably sized sprocket is when something / anything is slightly out of alignment. If you have one the of many that just will not stay 100% true thicker lube will help quieten the noise.
 
Alignment could be the issue.
or
New large sprocket doesn't appear to have side taper on the teeth nor do the teeth look to be de-burred.
(compare tooth profile between motor and new big)
I've made sprockets with laser and waterjet and then tapered the teeth by hand with a sander.
 
there are many causes of noise as mentioned above. My point was that the overall ratio increase as a result of the larger rear sprocket will make everything louder.

In other words even if the rear sprocket was silent the chain is still going faster per mph of wheel speed so the noise even from the front sprocket would be louder and easier to hear at lower speeds than before.

Think of it in links per minute at any given road speed.

Id always rather have noise than torture the motor with too little reduction. The big rear sprocket is still the best choice here.
 
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Pitch being distance between pins

I dont know about ur battery and what would fit. I imagine ideal would be one case that clamps on ur down tube. If u design it I’ll print it. Yea you’d probably want to open the packs u have and reorient and likely reweld or maybe use copper n magnets. There’s some great deals on lifepo4 cells (gotion) someone on the forum is selling a buck each n he lives like an hour and a half north. Safe chemistry and big cells to make assembly easy.


I know u already have an esc but with a vesc it’ll be easy to adjust things and fit on the side of the box easier. The other holes are a charge port “dc jack” and loopkey with qs8 anti spark plug to turn on and off. Will be waterproof View attachment 370212
Ur setup looks super clean. I'm not really trying to re work my cells at this point but I'll probably try to distribute the packs. One day I'll do a more professional build but for now I'm garage rat
 
I think alignment is the major issue... I didn't do anymore than eyeball it.

I also thought I had ordered the beveled tooth sprocket but I guess not. You guys think beveling the teeth myself is worth it? I'll at least deburr
 
Try a straight edge for alignment. With large sprockets you can usually align it surprisingly close by eye like aiming a gun.

I would always deburr because I am machinist and in school we failed any project with a single burr. A heavy bevel/deburr couldn't hurt if you are willing to take the time.

The bevel is more critical on the ends of the teeth. Normally the bevel disappears by the time you get to the root.
 
Try a straight edge for alignment. With large sprockets you can usually align it surprisingly close by eye like aiming a gun.

I would always deburr because I am machinist and in school we failed any project with a single burr. A heavy bevel/deburr couldn't hurt if you are willing to take the time.

The bevel is more critical on the ends of the teeth. Normally the bevel disappears by the time you get to the root.
Thanks I will do that. Makes sense being a machinist! I also should've known better as a hobby knife maker.... Obviously burrs on edges are a no no👎
 
Always applaud and appreciate nice work.
The orange boxes look good and remind me of adventure style motorcycles.
For my solar race bike the battery box was .032" thick sheet aluminum pop riveted together.
Current bike is very minimum attachment . . . it doesn't have a box per se.
It's a shrink wrapped 52V battery from Luna that's held in place with simple bandsaw cut plastic brackets, aluminum angle, double sided tape, some 2" wide pipe wrap tape and a couple extra wide 100 pound test zip ties.

Solar-Cat-600dpi.jpg

Pursuit battery.JPG
 
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