Conhismotor 48V 1000W with Ping 48V 20ah kit review

[DSX]

Hi Coen,

Go easy on the throttle especially the take offs. Hard to resist once you get the EV grin. 8) . Falcon ebikes (www.falconev.com) has a video of the torque reaction on a hub motor.


One other thing is your inline fuse - the glass ones are not especially robust. An automotive blade type like Crystalyte has with waterproof housing is good IMO. Bigger brake pads are a good idea too.

DSX

 

[dogman dan]

Very Very very likely that a lack of these is also your fork problem. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=15163

If you have a grinder or dremel, you can always make some out of the stock oversize washers, and use the torqe arm for a washer when they come.

You cannot have any air space behind those big washers and nuts that come with hubmotors. The cup in the fork is designed for the axle it came with, not an oversize motor hub axle. So when you tighten the nut, it puts a spreading force on the dropouts even before you turn on the motor. Once you have that micro crack on the fork, the rest is just a matter of time.

I bet you are taking a big risk, if you tighened the nut on that new fork. You may have to get a third new fork, dammit.

In my opinion, the main function of the torque arm on an alloy fork is to keep the wheel on the bike when it breaks the dropouts. It may help prevent it, but the real prevention is an absolutely perfect fitting of the motor to the forks and washers.

Another thing to have a hard look at when running an alloy fork with a front hub. The shoulders on the axle on the inner side can be pretty small, and cause some spreading force too. My kit, from E-BikeKit, comes with a set of inner washers to help prevent problems there.

Hope it all turns out well for you, I have about 9 months on my alloy fork ebike, with no problems yet. But I spent days and days getting it perfect, including trying it on three different bikes before choosing the fork that fit the motor best. At best, alloy forks are still risky. At worst, you get to buy new teeth or collarbones. Do wear a helmet, you can't buy a new head.

 

[Coen]

DSX

I meant that the glass tube fuses are for the battery charger. For my main powerline there is a 30amp car fuse.

I have a little problem with motors power cord, its like 3 cm too short for my bike setup now. Have to figure it out, cause it has twice pull one phase connection out, so its something to look on.

Dogman

... If i'd know that they got those washers and that i should get those, i would bought them My t-arms have allready left, so its kinda pointless to order two washers from 3700 miles away. Well i have to find those somewhere here, thanks for the advice.

Today is raining, but i took my bike for a spin, and 45km/h is top speed on flat for now. But for me its plenty, cause we have so many curbs, you cant ride too fast anyway.

Have enyone else had hard time soldering turnigy watt meter? My 40W solderer cant get those wires to "open up". So i dont have any info from that yet.

 

[BikeFanatic]

Coen,
It is not too late those C washers are so small they will put it in an envelope and it will not cost much.
Or grind down your own, I have a front hub without problems but I have two torque arms and two c washers ( and a steel fork).

 

[ludiagsm2]

Hi greetings from East Europe>Bulgaria>Sofia i am new here but i have two conhismotor kits on my e-bike i have front and rear 1000w 48v hubs ,two controllers one throttle and one 48v 16 ah lifepo4 battery. The bike has amazing torque and top speed on the flat is 57km/h and acceleration is double . I can climb taps now i have few tests here is a short video just before my first ride : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DTxWwQmVqE and soon i will make a new one in action. Best regards Ivo

 

[Coen]

ludiagsm2

Nice looking set!

Isnt that a bit hard for the battery? Theorically two controller can suck like 60 amps, what your bms says to that?

Or do you have bms on your battery?

 

[Coen]

Today i charged my battery, but i think something fishy was going on. BMS leds all came up, but the charger didnt stop charging. Do i have to be worried about it?

To be on the safe side, i took the battery off and took my bike for a spin.

I was trying to make a video and drove too fast over the curb and now i have a punctured rear tire

Tomorrow going to get a new one, maybe can do some video also.

Opinion after first 100km:

Pros:

Enough power for me and everything is working. Im pretty happy for my kit / battery

Cons: Really none sofar, but some pointers to look at.

Provided throttle should be rainproof, wich it isnt (thats what ive heard atleast, havent had any problems myself).

Throttle response isnt linear imo. It "boosts" at the start and a second torque peak comes right after 30 km/h. IRL it doesent matter, but noticed the feature.

Odd squiking noise from the hub trhough 34-38 km/h.

Controller has plenty of wires i dont need, i have throttle,power switch, hub and power connected. All other wires are useless to me and only on the way.

Conclusion: after first 100km it has been troublefree fun and considering to order a second kit on 20" rim.

 

[kentlim26]

Hi coen

Don't wait until the problem arise from the throttle. My test 2400km ride now, the only thing i face is the thumb throttle, must need a plastic cover. if this thumb throttle , if water really gets in. ( my fail is the ebike power totally cut off !), you got to pedal back ! :x The phase thick wire, must also add with some electrical tape. abit will do. ( over a time running, the connection will come out.)

yes, the Noise from the hub motor is features from Conhismotor "special " Grh... Grh... - My malay friend in singapore say Garang!.. fierce. i was actually worry, now is okay. i get used to it. he told me his x5304 . Totally silent... I let him try on my ebike. i think, this is where the difference between a Golden motor and conhismotor.

I had order a new controller from Chatparts.com. 60v 1800watts/ 30a controller. i think this will push my ebike abit faster.. i think Friday, i will get it. this one will be testing the cyclone controller also. chatparts, their communciation is GOOD!

cheers.
kentlim

chatparts.com is correct. ( i have not tested them)

 

[Fenman]

Whoo Hooo
The kit has arrived,3 days to travel across the world then 5 days in the U.K before it arrives at my door.
Its well packed and it seems to be the dead same as Coens kit so no need to post pics.
Reading about the aolly forks breaking,I picked up a early steel 19" mountain bike for very cheap money £10
this saves me looking for torque arms as this is a tempery build,.My proper build is to use the rear wheel kit .6gears and disc brake fittings from chm. on a brand new bike
Is it worth fitting the pedelec sensor and brake levers??
looking at the pac there is a kettle lead with Black and white wires coming out ,for connection is the white for live?,I think i wll chop off the plug and just do a normal connection but keep the fuse lol,also change the free tire to one a bit wider 2.2
Back to the build,I will post pics once I finish

 

[Fenman]

Build almost finished phew
The only problem I ended up with is the throttle lights are all on ,when I place the brake leaver plug in,that leaves 2 3pin slots for the yellow brown to go to the red,green ,black?
unplugging from the kettle plug to charge seems like a good plan.
Went for a quick spin on it ,top speed is 28.7 mph or 46kph.alittle slower than the cyclone but so quiet,and not a trouser shredder,now just got to tidy up,,,

 

[kentlim26]

i will never fix a pedal senor. i will only pedal when i see something (police). my mirror it helps few days ago while i was riding... I saw my big mirror... ! Light blink RED and BLUE = Traffic police.. I slow and and fake pedal. no problem. i wasn't harrass.. Traffic police wasn't too sure is that a ebike? , when i had start to pedal fast. I won't suggest for anyone to try pedal senor. it is the same, if you have throttle and pedal at the same time, it helps.

I know, this conhismotor is abit lower power 30% less in pick up power compare to cyclone 900watts. That is the only thing it lose, but when come to run long range distance, it is cyclone turn to lose more. the worest part is being worry when you run on the cyclone kit fast " you won't feel nice to run that fast,, there will be unexpectable Surprises!

if you are running 46km/h, the battery hasn't reach full power. it should go at least 48km/h ~ 51km/h For sure. My vpower battery can only do 48km/h~ 50km/h can't do 51km/h mostly on flat. On my 48v 12hr cells 38140s. That one can easily maintance speed 52km/h~ (faster). it is possible to add more speed. if you willing to get one more controller. (im ordering one, i think friday i will received, i bought from chatparts, 60v 1800watts.) im just trying to see.. if this controller can do 63km/h and above or not ? after that, i will switch back to my 1500watts controller. i don't used a brake lever.

the throttle part, there is a button. that one is useful. if there is any problem. (i will press the button) it will activate the power cut off. a very safe features. (cammy kits all don't have this+ golden motor too) my friend is selling a type of controller, it has a type of brake using the magnet power to stop.

cheers
kentlim

 

[Coen]

Fenman

Some like PAS, i tryed it and took it off. Also didnt connect the battery lights, cause they dont show accurately on LiFePo4 batterys.

About the brake levers, why would you want to change your levers to a shitty ones? I didnt.

I have only the throttle and power swhitch connected and im very pleased with the setting.

Torque arms arrived today from Canada, i installed one of them, but hose clamps werent long enough to fit my fork, so i had to get bigger ones.

And i also got 2 flashlights from DX to attach my bike, very bright flood like light! http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.22569

And got new rear tire, Shcwalbe Silento, first impression: quiet and good rolling but not for muddy trails.

kentlim

You should remeber that not everybody weight 60 kg, like yourself. Im a 100 kg guy, so i dont believe that weight and size dont do anything for your top speed.
You should take 40 kg excess weight (girl maybe 8) ) on your bike and then measure your top speed.

By the way, you have told that you have an alarm system on your bike, does it take its power from the bikes battery?

 

[kentlim26]

hi coen,

i am bit heavier 65Kg. i try to eat alot but too hard to grow more weight , i think i got bad absorb for good food. i still look for good nice food.

Today i was surprised.. My spoke one of them Broke. i have send a email to bmsbattery if they still sell stainless steel spokes. One broke, i order for 30 ..conhismotor comes with normal steel spokes, ( is easily break).. it last me 2400km only. When i got this hub motor, i already knew it. they are not tough enough. (need something 12g stainless steel spokes).

i took a good photo/ for information (just incase somebody interested to order a extra stainless steel spokes..) i have a photos for everyone to share. very sharp photo taken. i no more using alarm. i think my locks are really tough ones, for 8hours locking, U- lock by master. i also add chain locks+ if im going to park a place for very long hours. I will used a canvas. Thiefs dislike to be troublesome opening the canvas and steal something.

kentlim

 

[kentlim26]

Our rims for Conhismotor can take longer 5mm spokes. 12g. the rim hole is abit bigger. Waiting for a email from Bmsbattery is difficult, The fastest what i can do.. I build my own spokes. Easy. some times ago, i had bought 12g stainless steel spokes for 26inch wheel, i keep it for standby for repair. i took out the wheel and weight.. It is 7.8kg. the whole wheel weight)

i have made one spare spokes. it can be used once my spokes breaks again. making own spokes is fastest, less waiting time for their BMSbattery to reply me. the correct length i prefer should be 165mm. Not 160mm. making a slight longer 165mm, it will be much easy to fix. those stainless steel spokes are really tough 12g ones.

kentlim
attach, my tools, + new spokes+ 26inch spokes.

 

[Coen]

Hey, i got a couple questions.

Can i try the delta mode just by switching the phase connectors in reverse order?

Does that work, or am i going to fry something, if i try?

Another question, is it a dumb idea to put controller and a lipo pack in a back pack?
It would leave only motor and throttle on the bike = stealth mode.

Im just wondering what happens if i got 10 kg's on my back if i crash..

Any ideas how much voltage i can feed to this motor without destroying it?

Do you know how low the voltage goes in ping battery before bms shuts it down? Yesterday i stopped at 51.1V and it felt that there was like 20% power missing.

This is motor data from conhismotor.com

You can click it larger.

 

[kentlim26]

hi Coen

for the box, to protect a bad fall, i put lots of soft material at the side. i had fall once, but no problems with the battery. not every road is easy to speed fast, only certain road. my believe , this Motor from conhis can easily take up 60v, i think it should be no problems, if there is ... and blow onto the motor. i will order another motor from CHM again.

i have 3 new projects coming in.. one is 60v on this Conhismotor, i really wonder if it can do 65km/h on flat Or not ? Only test will know the results. of course test will have a cost involved., but it is okay. i can find out something new here.

kentlim

 

[ludiagsm2]

ludiagsm2

Nice looking set!

Isnt that a bit hard for the battery? Theorically two controller can suck like 60 amps, what your bms says to that?

Or do you have bms on your battery?

Hi and yes it is very hard for the battery but i run it like that with two hubs over a month and it is still alive I have bms witch has 40amp cut off and because of that i have connected two controllers directly on the battery outs i am using bms only for balancing the cells. I plan in near future to connect one 5 ah set of a123's to work in parallel with my china 16ah lifepo4 pack.
Before with 16 ah cell and only one rear 1000w hub i have 34km range now with two hubs and 16 ah i have 25km range i hope soon to made mine regenerative braking solution and will keep you in touch

 

[kentlim26]

hub motor user/

today i spoke with the buddy ebike dealer. he said, 12g spokes is still not enough Tough to run high speed 50km/h above, it can still break. His solution is 10Guages spokes size will be Right One. he has been selling ebike speed with 22" inch ebike to run speed at 72volts without a problem on 10Gauges size./ speed above 65km/h. he was my dear Good buddy, actually he intend to give me free, however it is business i don't wish to take things without paying. Wasn't my style. He gave me a super price.. to say for 36spokes of 10g, he sold me Less then USD2.00 " he was a Good elder Buddy!! conhismotor do sell 12g stainless steel spokes for 30, + shipping is USD18.00 the price is still consider very low. My previous purchase of 12g, a single spokes of a stainless steel. cost me SGD2.00 He makes 100% more!

he told me, Motorbike used 8g spokes.-"

so if you have face a spokes breaking, do consider a 10g size spokes. (abit thicker then conhismotor) but this 10G spokes is going to sure to keep you happy for a long time!! tomorrow i will check with my tools shop for a dies.. This 10G, i believe will work with speed below 65km/h. " let say i pump and add higher volts to 65v. + add one 12v. (will be looking around.)

best regards.
kentlim

 

[kentlim26]

alot of us, have been wondering the size of conhismotor is how wide. today i got new controller frm chatparts 60v 1800. i test on my free wheel spin. guess wat i got. the wheel fly out of bicycle. my phase wire burst. iv open up the hub and see. very rusty, i sandpaper and spray some w4d. i went to measure magnet size. it is 32mm, not 24 or 28mm. golden motor 24mm, 9c is 28mm magnets. i repired the wires already. even is a test spin. it needs a troque arm.

cheers
kentlim

ERROR,, it should be chatparts.com

 

[Coen]

Ok, after 300 km, no problem whatsoever. For the 300 kms, my average speed was 27 kmh.

Ping BMS lights all light up within 3 minutes of each other, so i think thats a good thing.

Top speed on flat has increased a bit, now its 47 km/h.

Next week i get some p7 led flashlights on my bike. Also next week im going to ride that ping untill the bms cuts it off,
just to see how far i can go.

 

[kentlim26]

hi Conhis ebikers,

i have deteched the problems and had repaired successfully, also i have learnt several things inside the hub motor. on the hall sensor, Conhismotor hall sensor is abit smaller in Size 3.8 or 3.9mm. Not 4mm and above in size. eg. please take note, it may not able to fit in for the item i am mention is "Digi key, 480- 1999ND " from honeywell sensor control. it wide is "4.064 millimeter" . Today i was lucky to meet my ebike boss here/ in singapore he is only person had hall sensor exactly the same i have. i replaced the hall sensor + spray some paint on the metal plates. im very happy today, as i have repair my motor (interesting!!) + learn many things. if one day, if you need to replace hall sensor, please do measure the hall sensor size. i bought 3, it was Oversize. SG6.00 . i have also ordered from Conhismotor 5hall sensor, not here yet. they will be coming to me soon. but that will be a spare hall sensor. it was very expensive + shipping it cost usd18.00 for 5. Now the sound in my conhismotor has changed alot. i smoothen the metal plates with Engine Oil, it's sure helps to reduce rust build. They are not simple to closed it back. (if you have closed it wrongly, there will be some clogged, open both plates again, close them again).

i tested the Chatparts.com controller, when i fully blast the speed, max, it will cut off. if voltages is too low eg 42volts. (will cut off) as for chatpart.com 60v 1800watts testing the cyclone motor both of them still appear dead. That is why i will never support cyclone motors, they are really hard to match other kinds of controllers. please show me if anyones had connected other controller. send me to kentlim26@yahoo.com.sg

For chatparts controllers is a easy connection. Controller to motor.
(hall thin wires ) - Blue (controller) to yellow (motor), Green to Green, yellow to Blue. ( used a pin to changed)
(phase thick wires) - green to green, yellow to Blue, Blue to yellow.

this one will also works. however you need 60v to run, for 48v lifepo4 can run, if full blast, it will power cut off so i have to add 12v of lifepo4. to run at full speed.

Hurray!, my fews days of no ebike had been a terrible time for me., a lesson i have learnt. Don't spin the wheel ( no load test) with 60v 1800watts, without any troque arms! 100% when is on the full speed mode. you can see how fast it had spin out from the bicycle. !

cheers.
kentlim

 

[Coen]

Good you got that sorted out.

Do you have speedometer on your bike, if so, can you tell how much more freewheel top speed you get with the new controller?

Any pictures about the repair?

 

[kentlim26]

hi Coen,

i was too distress to take the photos. i open up the hub motor and close it back more then 20times. change wires, and i close it and test it. motor cannot move properly. i open up again, check again, i also tidy up the wires inside, clean the rusty areas with sand paper, then i spray hi- temp paint on a paper and paint round the motor (made of cast iron, i think so). few days ago, i had been searching hi- and low for the hall sensor. i strongly felt the hall is spoiled, when i tested back on a new controller. i didn't have a speedometer on rear wheel. 1st i run on my battery 48v 12hr, it will always cut off when i had max the speed. so i went to add one more sla battery, it run pretty well on full throttle. i will test them one day when i have energy to test one more time on full speed. i hope i really don't wish to open up that hub motor, it is very hard to closed back properly. (no cogged, if has a cogged, means not properly)

some reason i have to open up, because i when i run freewheel, it will have bad cogged. (i was analyse how come?). the magnet between the motor, is only 1-2mm gap. i have fix up my bike and now is ready to run, but is 48v controller. for the 60v, that will be later, once i got some spare cash, i will order the 12v lifpo4 to make it 60v. i bought this controller was just a testing, to see if it works on hub motor / cyclone motors.

from what i can see freewheel spining is at least 65km/h or faster, it was very powerful. i had my cyclone 900watts, the spining for 65km/h is exactly the same.when i have return the 48v motor, i can see the spinning is alot much slower. (obviously) it will be a good buy for people who intend to go even higher speed. As for me, 48km/h. im very happy about it.

kentlim

Updated!! the distress make me forgetful.
Actually the silver area, (is actually a high- temperture paint) i have also add the side with engine oil. very mild only)
now is no ic hall sensor board, i used only wires + wires protection to avoid from short circuit.+ small cable tied too.

 

[DSX]

Hi kentlim,

Well done with the repair. Torque arms are long overdue with this much power on tap (in an alloy frame?). It may be worthwhile adding slotted metal plates as extra support for the axle as others have done have done to "bullet proof" it for those future power upgrades .

David

 

[kentlim26]

hi Dsx,

since the 1st drop out, it has been keep On dropping at my right hand site nuts. i have to order one more troque arm from justin. i have temporary build one troque arm, it can last, but it looks ugly. since i have made some file/ sand paper away the rust areas + mild rub with engine Oil, now the torque seem to improves very obviously. it can easily now reached 49km/h on the same battery (vpower). In the past, it takes much longer to reach 49km/h. it is very interesting about hub motor, that we can easily repair them (needs some practice).

i fear this new bicycle the grip isn't good enough. it looks weak to me. I don't mind my bicycle break into 2 pieces rather then my phase wires burst. it has more terrible work to do after that. troque arm needs at least 2 for sure. if the other one doesn't have a troque arm, the wheel will tend to twist to one side. and it spring back to its orginal position.

cheers, thank you
kentlim