As for the voltage, it's +48V (VB+) coming out of the controller to enter the MOSFET, but I don't know what voltage comes out of the MOSFET (D+) to enter the lights. Do you think it's 12V?
Connector Compatibility Issue for Replacing a Generic Controller
- Thread starter Jay-Cee
- Start date
Looking at the board, it looks like it's the same voltage as the red and black wire connector carry, so you could measure it.
Gruesome
1 kW
The board that you thought was a relay clearly says it is a DC-DC converter. So that's where your 12V are coming from.
I'd say the 'E' input is for 'Enable', maybe connected to your light switch or a controller or display output.
I'd say the 'E' input is for 'Enable', maybe connected to your light switch or a controller or display output.
I am perceiving that you are having difficulties imagining how to mate the connectors on the new controller to the existing connectors on your bike.
You have three main options:
1. Make new controller connectors match the existing bicycle connectors. Cut the connector(s) off of the controller wiring and splice in the appropriate connector to mate with the existing bicycle connector(s).
2. Make the existing bicycle connectors match the new controller connectors. Cut the connector(s) off of the existing bicycle wiring and splice in the appropriate connector to mate with the new controller wiring connector(s).
3. Cut off all the connectors and use a totally different connectors (possibly better).
4. Some combination of all of the above.
You can solder your splices, or crimp them. I know how to solder and have the equipment but prefer crimp splices mostly.
NOTE: As E-HP stated earlier, just because some of the wire colors or connector types of the new controller seem to match the existing bicycle wiring schemes does not guarantee they are correct matches. Sadly, there are no real adhered-to standards.
You have three main options:
1. Make new controller connectors match the existing bicycle connectors. Cut the connector(s) off of the controller wiring and splice in the appropriate connector to mate with the existing bicycle connector(s).
2. Make the existing bicycle connectors match the new controller connectors. Cut the connector(s) off of the existing bicycle wiring and splice in the appropriate connector to mate with the new controller wiring connector(s).
3. Cut off all the connectors and use a totally different connectors (possibly better).
4. Some combination of all of the above.
You can solder your splices, or crimp them. I know how to solder and have the equipment but prefer crimp splices mostly.
NOTE: As E-HP stated earlier, just because some of the wire colors or connector types of the new controller seem to match the existing bicycle wiring schemes does not guarantee they are correct matches. Sadly, there are no real adhered-to standards.
I see the DC-DC info. However, how do you know it's 12V? And do you think the two connectors intended for the lights on the new controller are 12V?
My problem concerned the identification of my two 5-pin female connectors on the main cable that connects the brake levers, throttle, display, and front light (as well as the horn). I had no issues with the wiring methodology, nor with using connectors instead of soldering. I actually prefer to adapt the connectors of the new controller to my original wiring because if one day I wish, for any reason, to return to an original controller, the change will be done without any problem.
I managed to understand the information and was able to see how to modify the connectors for the new controller. Now, the question concerns the wiring of the lights on the new controller because currently (on the original controller) there is a DC-DC converter with a blue signal wire connected to the CAN-TX terminal of the controller. Do you have any ideas about this?
Based on what I have read and learned, the controller I currently use would use the CAN bus communication protocol. CAN stands for Controller Area Network.
The new controller would use the UART communication protocol, which stands for Universal Asynchronous Receiver Tx/Rx.
I redid a wiring simulation of the new controller on my current wiring to check if I had forgotten anything.
I just realized that for the "Brakes" connectors, I know where to connect the YELLOW signal wire (instead of the GREY - BKL wire) but what should I do with the BLACK - GND wire that was not present with my original controller? Should I reconnect it to another ground (GND) so that it can be powered or can I leave it unconnected?
I just realized that for the "Brakes" connectors, I know where to connect the YELLOW signal wire (instead of the GREY - BKL wire) but what should I do with the BLACK - GND wire that was not present with my original controller? Should I reconnect it to another ground (GND) so that it can be powered or can I leave it unconnected?
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Gruesome
1 kW
I would measure the lighting voltage, both on the old and on the new controller.
Gruesome
1 kW
Jay-Cee, I do not know. Do you have brake handles with switches built in? If not, then there is nothing to connect the brake input of the controller to, and I would just leave it alone.
If you do have brake switches or one switch, and it has two wires, then it's easy. Connect the two wires from the switch to the two wires to the controller. If it's only one wire, then you have to find out what your brake switch does (maybe it connects the one wire to ground when you brake?), and what the new controller expects for it's input. Maybe pulling the yellow wire to ground is what it needs. But I do not know that.
If you do have brake switches or one switch, and it has two wires, then it's easy. Connect the two wires from the switch to the two wires to the controller. If it's only one wire, then you have to find out what your brake switch does (maybe it connects the one wire to ground when you brake?), and what the new controller expects for it's input. Maybe pulling the yellow wire to ground is what it needs. But I do not know that.
I have a 'low' type brake, as soon as I press the lever, the engine stops. As soon as I press the lever, the signal wire makes contact with GND and cuts off the engine. A thousand thanks for all your help.
