Considerations on parallel drive set-ups

deecanio said:
i'm under the impression that all i need is two freewheels on my freewheel cassette thread to achieve independant drive no?
D

Yes. Gary's adaptor only allowed one on the hub, so one was also needed on the motor output, to isolate the pedal drive. It's still a good solution for most hub gears, though. The only drawback is the extra chain drag when pedalling without the motor.
 
Now all we need is someone to bankroll a bulk order of these: http://www.allproducts.com/manufacture6/sunrace/sr-fw3a.html or these http://www.tradeindia.com/fp278602/FREE-WHEEL-THREE-SPEED.html and we're back to 27 pedalling gears with three motor gears.

Or, for 18 pedal gears and 3 motor gears with a better quality freewheel: http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1555
 
Miles said:
deecanio said:
i'm under the impression that all i need is two freewheels on my freewheel cassette thread to achieve independant drive no?
D

Yes. Gary's adaptor only allowed one on the hub, so one was also needed on the motor output, to isolate the pedal drive. It's still a good solution for most hub gears, though. The only drawback is the extra chain drag when pedalling without the motor.

Yes 2 freewheels independent of eachother is the best solution, Gary's adaptor will not provide this :cry: but is a very good solution if your not to worried about motor clogging while pedaling ( which im not ). I just had a thought that miles maybe able to answer, are the dual sprocket freewheels wider than standard ? i.e deeper thead. There was a thread on here somewhere ( I think it was flying monkey ? ) toying with the idea of butting 2 freewheels together using a bb threaded sleeve..
 
gwhy! said:
I just had a thought that miles maybe able to answer, are the dual sprocket freewheels wider than standard ? i.e deeper thead.
You mean the ENO ones? AFAIK these are the same width as the singles..

Looks the same here: http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1555
 
This looks to be a good candidate for the motor freewheel:

TR-freewheel-72-back%20side.jpg
 
If you guys are really serious about this stuff (multi systems like Miles is showing and we are discussing), I am open to the possibility of bankrolling a couple items. We need to figure out what is really needed/wanted and what components will work together. Once that is established, I am open to ordering some stuff depending on the dollars we are talking about and the potential return on the innitial envestment. I am not looking for a huge proffit. What I am looking for is regaining the money invested in a timely manor, so that money can be reinvested in other e-bike projects.

Matt
 
Sorry to spoil the party, but going right back to you opening gambit, Miles:
"
Advantages of parallel drive set-ups over series (crank) drive:

- No "wasted" gear stages

- Allows the possibility of separated pedal and motor multi gearing
"

Surely "wasted" gear stages is what you do if you don't adjoin the human and motor power in a way that uses all the available gear mechanism for both sources of power (via a common chain). The whole of this thread has been discussing how to "mix" the human and motor power at the rear axle. Is it not true (generically) that "mixing" the human power with the motor power at the same point (rear axle) is intrinsically more complex than mixing those powers by applying them at DIFFERENT points (at the rear axle and the bottom bracket) to the power transition medium (the chain)?
On your second point, what are the advantages of separate pedal and motor multi gearing? And doesn't separating them contradict the aim of not wasting gear stages?
 
Hi Paul,

If you combine at the BB, the motor has to be reduced to cadence speed ("wasted" stage) if you want to be able to pedal with the motor. The cadence speed is then geared up (over-drive) to wheel speed.

If you combine at a mid-axle (median speed) this gives a "wasted" 1:1 drive to the back wheel - this can be justified if it has other benefits, eg. optimal suspension etc.

Combining at the back wheel with a direct drive from the motor is the most efficient way to go, I think.

All design is compromise, though - take your pick :)

Separate motor and pedal gearing:

Advantages:
- Some power continuity
- Complete freedom to manage the relative speeds
- Allows automatic motor gear changing* without disturbing rider so much

Disadvantages:
- More weight
- Possibly less efficient (depends on*)
 
Thanks for that Miles, I'm sure I'm not the only "bear with a small brain" to find that useful :D
 
paultrafalgar said:
Thanks for that Miles, I'm sure I'm not the only "bear with a small brain" to find that useful :D

Not at all. It's good that everyone challenges the assumptions at every turn. My "lists" contain things which I think are important - they may not be to everybody, or anybody, else :mrgreen:
 
GGoodrum said:
John, I'm having problems visualizing what you are describing. Is this the setup you are doing where the hub motor is not on the wheel, ala the Stoke Monkey?
-- Gary

Gary,
In my specific case I'm talking about a hub motor out of the wheel, but the same would apply to any non-hub drive. Stoke Monkey is overly complicated to me. Essentially all I'm talking about is the dual FW's at the final drive sprocket, not at the driven sprocket on the wheel. Unless I'm visualizing it wrong, it eliminates the extra chain, while allowing full use...motor+pedal, motor only, and pedal only (without motor drag), along with a normal rear wheel for spacing and disk brakes.

Miles,
You can still pedal while motoring. The center of the FW of the crank line would be attached to the final drive sprocket itself, so when the motor turns that drive sprocket you can freewheel and not turn the cranks, or turn the cranks and assist the motor.

LFP,
I don't think it's restricted only to bike chain and sprockets, unless you go with a derailleur at the wheel for multiple gears for the motor. I've been thinking bike chain wasn't up to the task either, but my thought is to just go with chainring size sprockets at the motor and wheel, since it's easy cheap. I'd use sprockets with even numbers of teeth, and file half of them off for (I think) less noise and chain wear if it seems noisy. Shouldn't sprockets with more than double the typical diameter of rear sprockets, along with a straight chain, make bike chain up to the task?
 
John in CR said:
Miles,
You can still pedal while motoring. The center of the FW of the crank line would be attached to the final drive sprocket itself, so when the motor turns that drive sprocket you can freewheel and not turn the cranks, or turn the cranks and assist the motor.
Hi John,

This is what I wrote:
Miles said:
If you used a slow speed motor (hub motor?), or had a planetary geared reduction on the motor shaft, you could do something like this. Unless it's not important for you to be able to pedal and use the motor together?(Edit added: In which case the motor speed could be higher).
I think I could have expressed it more clearly/obviously but there is no contradiction. :wink:

What you're suggesting is one of the options that Cyclone have, I think. It's the opposite configuration to a double freewheeling crank.
 
Miles,

I never really looked at Cyclone. I'm just talking about the double FW at the drive end of the last chain instead of at the wheel. The FW's would just have to work differently than just 2 FW's ganged together on a common shaft. The one on the motor would tie to the motor drive normally, but reversed so unscrewing has to be addressed without LH threads. The one for the crank would tie to the final drive sprocket, not the shaft. I probably try too hard for complete descriptions in words to replace nice pics and drawings like you do, and I end up confusing the issue with too many words. If Cyclone has that kind of double FW, then maybe we can source it ready made.

Am I thinking right that large sprockets and straight chain can make bicycle chain work for several Kw?

John
 
Miles said:
deecanio said:
does the eno have the same thread as the 15t?
D
Aye. :)


OK, :lol: so if the both have the same thread, how does that thread relate to a freewheel cassette thread? bigger/smaller?
smaller i suspect?
i didn't want to thread anything onto the eno i was thinking of just attaching the extron to the eno and then have the 15t right beside it on a freewheel cassette thread giving me two freewheels, one for the motor chain and one for the bike chain? that would give me independance no? :? :? :?


D
 
deecanio said:
I didn't want to thread anything onto the eno i was thinking of just attaching the extron to the eno and then have the 15t right beside it on a freewheel cassette thread giving me two freewheels, one for the motor chain and one for the bike chain? that would give me independance no? :? :? :?

Yes, but...

How would that work with such a short thread: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

Or, your planning to put a thread on the splines of a cassette driver?

If it were possible then the motor sprocket would have to be on the outside.
 
John in CR said:
I never really looked at Cyclone. I'm just talking about the double FW at the drive end of the last chain instead of at the wheel. The FW's would just have to work differently than just 2 FW's ganged together on a common shaft. The one on the motor would tie to the motor drive normally, but reversed so unscrewing has to be addressed without LH threads. The one for the crank would tie to the final drive sprocket, not the shaft. I probably try too hard for complete descriptions in words to replace nice pics and drawings like you do, and I end up confusing the issue with too many words. If Cyclone has that kind of double FW, then maybe we can source it ready made.

John,

I understand what you're describing and it would work fine. Cyclone have what they call a double freewheel motor, I think that's it.
 
You guys are making my head hurt again. :? :roll: Paul is definitely not the only "bear" in these woods. :mrgreen:

If I'm understanding things, we have several different ideas going on, for how to get true drive independence, all with some level of multiple gear stages for both the motor and the pedals, right? One solution that would help would be to have two standard freewheels with splines that can fit over a standard 9-speed Shimano cassette, which is why Luke and Miles were hacking away with safe-cracking tools, is that right? Assuming that task was solvable, I think that would open up lots of possibilities. If you put two freewheels on an SRAM Dual-Drive, for instance, which has a 3-speed internal hub, that would give the motor and the pedals three speeds, and you could optimize the ratios to the rear for the motor and the pedals independently. An offshoot of this would be to use a 3-sprocket front dérailleur which then gives the pedal drive 9 speeds.

Another related option, one that interests me quite a bit, is to put the dual splined freewheels on a standard 9-speed hub, without the internal gears. This could be used on a standard 21-speed or 27-speed setup with the triple front dérailleur. My 21-speed Townie is the candidate I'm thinking of, but this is also pretty much exactly what D needs, I think. This gives three speeds for the pedals, which is plenty for many applications, but only one for the motor. With delta-wye switching, however, you get two speeds with a ratio change of 1.73:1, which would be like going from a 100t sprocket down to a 58t sprocket. As one of the few here that have actually used both the 3210 and the 3220, I wholeheartedly believe that two speeds is more than enough for any 3220-based setup, even on a 26" bike and unless you need a very wide performance range, I would also argue the same for the 3210.

Are there any other dual freewheel options other than fitting them to a splined Shimano cassette? Also, I looked at all three internal hub-types I have here, the SRF3, a 3-speed SRAM, a Nexus-3 and a Nexus-8, and I just don't see how you can have room for adding two standard freewheels, however they are attached, on a standard width dropout. Maybe instead of doing a 9-speed spline, you took a standard freewheel and made it slide onto the 3-splined hub, in place of the cog, that might leave enough room. If the first freewheel had say, half the threads left, you could then use a threaded pipe to screw on the 2nd freewheel. You'd also need a clever way to replace the circlip, which is used to hold on the cogs. Maybe this isn't needed, if there's no space left for the freewheels to go anywhere, side-to-side. One problem with this idea, though, is it would be hard to use an ENO for this first FW, because it has that "shoulder" on the end. Although the pedal-driven FW can be a standard model, you'd probably want to use the better quality ENO FW for the motor drive, and from a motor installation point-of-view, it simplifies things to have the motor drive inboard of the pedal chain.

I'm also not done looking at LH drive options, using the disk brake mount. Even the internal hubs are coming with these as options now, and this might be an easier nut to crack, for my delta-wye two-speed option. What is needed here is I think two adapters, one to "attach" the freewheel to the brake mount, and one that would mount a standard #219 Extron sprocket, which has a 4-12"/116mm bore, to the freewheel. Custom #219 sprockets could also be done,, which would eliminate the need for the 2d adapter, but those Extron composite sprockets look pretty nice. :)

Finally, there is still the option of putting the 3rd freewheel on the motor shaft, but you then would have the extra drag in pedal-only mode of the pedals still spinning the motor chain. Anyway you cut it, having all three freewheels in back, one for the wheel, one for the pedals and one for the motor, is still the most optimum solution.

-- Gary
 
Miles said:
If it were possible then the motor sprocket would have to be on the outside.

This is not the best way, and may not even be possible, because at a minimum it will severely limit the size of the #219 sprocket. The chainstay gets in the way. The motor-driven sprocket needs to be on the inside. It makes it easier on the motor mounting as well.
 
GGoodrum said:
If I'm understanding things, we have several different ideas going on, for how to get true drive independence, all with some level of multiple gear stages for both the motor and the pedals, right? One solution that would help would be to have two standard freewheels with splines that can fit over a standard 9-speed Shimano cassette, which is why Luke and Miles were hacking away with safe-cracking tools, is that right? Assuming that task was solvable, I think that would open up lots of possibilities. If you put two freewheels on an SRAM Dual-Drive, for instance, which has a 3-speed internal hub, that would give the motor and the pedals three speeds, and you could optimize the ratios to the rear for the motor and the pedals independently. An offshoot of this would be to use a 3-sprocket front dérailleur which then gives the pedal drive 9 speeds.

Yes, this is is similar to the set-up I have on my eMoulton (which uses the dual-drive), except that I have 4 derailleur sprockets on the cassete and a front freewheel. The front freewheel is not a problem for me because I'm almost always pedalling.

If I replaced the 4 derailleur sprockets with a 3 sprocket freewheel, I would have nearly the same gear range without the front freewheel.

So, the motor would have 3 hub gears and the pedals would have the 3 hub gears too plus 3 sprockets on the freewheel which is 9 speeds and if you added a triple chainring it would give you 27 pedal gears (nominally).
 
GGoodrum said:
Miles said:
If it were possible then the motor sprocket would have to be on the outside.

This is not the best way, and may not even be possible, because at a minimum it will severely limit the size of the #219 sprocket. The chainstay gets in the way. The motor-driven sprocket needs to be on the inside. It makes it easier on the motor mounting as well.

Quite. So, you can't use the ENO for the motor freewheel :wink:
 
GGoodrum said:
Another related option, one that interests me quite a bit, is to put the dual splined freewheels on a standard 9-speed hub, without the internal gears. This could be used on a standard 21-speed or 27-speed setup with the triple front dérailleur. My 21-speed Townie is the candidate I'm thinking of, but this is also pretty much exactly what D needs, I think. This gives three speeds for the pedals, which is plenty for many applications, but only one for the motor. With delta-wye switching, however, you get two speeds with a ratio change of 1.73:1, which would be like going from a 100t sprocket down to a 58t sprocket. As one of the few here that have actually used both the 3210 and the 3220, I wholeheartedly believe that two speeds is more than enough for any 3220-based setup, even on a 26" bike and unless you need a very wide performance range, I would also argue the same for the 3210.

Yes, that will be fine. The offset on the hub will give you more clearance for the motor pulley (as it does on the dual-drive).
 
GGoodrum said:
Are there any other dual freewheel options other than fitting them to a splined Shimano cassette? Also, I looked at all three internal hub-types I have here, the SRF3, a 3-speed SRAM, a Nexus-3 and a Nexus-8, and I just don't see how you can have room for adding two standard freewheels, however they are attached, on a standard width dropout.

The SA S3X that I linked to earlier in this thread has a short splined and threaded input driver.

You can also gang 2 freewheels together and fix them onto an old style freewheel hub as mentioned: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=12449&start=5

Many of the hub gears can be offset to the LH side to create more clearance - others are designed for 120mm OLD but can be used on 135mm OLD.
 
GGoodrum said:
I'm also not done looking at LH drive options, using the disk brake mount. Even the internal hubs are coming with these as options now, and this might be an easier nut to crack, for my delta-wye two-speed option. What is needed here is I think two adapters, one to "attach" the freewheel to the brake mount, and one that would mount a standard #219 Extron sprocket, which has a 4-12"/116mm bore, to the freewheel. Custom #219 sprockets could also be done,, which would eliminate the need for the 2d adapter, but those Extron composite sprockets look pretty nice. :)

Yes, this is another way to go. It has the advantage of needing one less freewheel.

Or, if you don't want a disc brake on the back, you could use a bi-drive BMX hub.
 
So, the 3-sprocket widget you had links for hs its own freewheel? That would open up some more options, I think. I'm curious about what this was originally intended for, do you know? What other application needs a separate FW from the one on the splined hub? Tandem maybe?

A "bi-drive" BMX hub? Not that there's anything wrong with that ( :mrgreen: ), but what exactly is this? Are there chains on both sides?
 
Back
Top