!!! CONTROLER WIRES COLOUR BLUE WHAT ARE THEY FOR ??
- Thread starter justlooking
- Start date
??
= "brushed"justlooking said:
probably "ignition" / "keyswitch"
mabye brake or alarm / etc
3rd one circld pn 3pin lookslike throttle
dogman dan
1 PW
That is a bit odd though, usually a keyswitch circuit is on the + , or red wire. Is it connected to the same plug contact as the - wire, or does it have it's own prong.
No idea what the other blue wire is for. A pair of wires would be an easier guess, key switch, brake cutoff switch, or even maybe an overheat cutoff switch.
No idea what the other blue wire is for. A pair of wires would be an easier guess, key switch, brake cutoff switch, or even maybe an overheat cutoff switch.
Ypedal
100 TW
if you can open the box and show the insides, where the blue wires are soldered to the board, it would help to clarify things .
justlooking
1 kW
justlooking
1 kW
Ypedal said:
i will do that ,, asap m8 ..
Right, I think the blue wire on the power plug is the keyswitch line. This would get connected to the red one by a switch to turn the controller on/off.
The other blue wire is most likely a brake line. This cuts off the power when grounded by the brake switch.
The other blue wire is most likely a brake line. This cuts off the power when grounded by the brake switch.
dogman dan
1 PW
I agree, the pic made it look like it was crimped to the same contact as the negative.
Now that I see it has it's own plug, I bet it's a plug to the keyswitch circuit. Connect it to battery + if the controller won't turn on without it connected. I'm still a bit lost on what the other wire might be. All the familiar stuff takes two wires.
Now that I see it has it's own plug, I bet it's a plug to the keyswitch circuit. Connect it to battery + if the controller won't turn on without it connected. I'm still a bit lost on what the other wire might be. All the familiar stuff takes two wires.
justlooking
1 kW
just thought ,, the bike it came off has a speedo.
the speedo worked when the rear /hub motor driven/ was turning under power, i can not see any way that it could have worked, so could the second blue wire be to do with the speedo ??
the bike also had a meter that gave the battery capacity of useable charge left,,
i will get the picture of the unit with the cover off as soon as i can
the speedo worked when the rear /hub motor driven/ was turning under power, i can not see any way that it could have worked, so could the second blue wire be to do with the speedo ??
the bike also had a meter that gave the battery capacity of useable charge left,,
i will get the picture of the unit with the cover off as soon as i can
justlooking said:
That's possible but not so likely on a brushed motor controller.
The battery meter usually connects right to the key switch wire and ground so it gets full pack voltage when switched on. Anything's possible with these controllers though.
Is there a model number on it (in english)? Sometimes you can get the wiring diagram if it is a model that is still sold by somebody. Heck, we even read chinese here so post that up too.
dnmun
1 PW
i'll go with the dogman on the brake cutoff line idea. that would explain why there is no plug on the end too if it had to be ripped out of the brake light.
dogman dan
1 PW
Brake cutoff makes sense, except it would require a second wire. It's possible that the original bike used the neutral of the throttle circuit for the second ebrake wire?
Plug it in, and see if it has 5v on the single blue wire. If it has full pack voltage, then it's a battery monitor wire, that they grounded some other way.
Plug it in, and see if it has 5v on the single blue wire. If it has full pack voltage, then it's a battery monitor wire, that they grounded some other way.
dnmun
1 PW
yes, it comes off the positive side of the light and the ground in the controller is the other side of the voltage. i think they expect 12V for the light. eventually he will open it.
justlooking
1 kW
Ypedal
100 TW
the blue one that is grouped with the other throttle wires i would hazard an educated guess that goes to an LED throttle to show pack voltage ( ignore it if using a standard non-led throttle )
the other blue wire with the + and - is a on/off wire that most likely can be connected along with the + wire to keep the system ON.
the other blue wire with the + and - is a on/off wire that most likely can be connected along with the + wire to keep the system ON.
justlooking
1 kW
i didnt think there was more than one type of throttle ,, i assumed they worked on a variable resistor ,,
can any one explain [in simple terms ] the ins and outs of both of these please ,,
im getting seriously addicted to electric bikes and trying to learn all i can about them ,,
can any one explain [in simple terms ] the ins and outs of both of these please ,,
im getting seriously addicted to electric bikes and trying to learn all i can about them ,,
First, for the wires; the heavy black and red wires go to the battery. They can stay connected all the time (but a disconnect switch is recommended). The small blue wire bunched with these can go to a small switch, then to the red battery wire. When the switch is on, the controller will be powered. Some people just tie this permanently to the red wire and use a large switch to the battery that can handle the full power.
The other blue wire could be several things, but to tell, you should connect a battery or power supply and turn the controller on. Then measure the voltage between battery negative and the remaining blue wire. This voltage will give us a clue. My guess is it will have 5-12v, being a brake wire that gets grounded. If it has battery voltage, then it could be used to drive a battery meter. If it has zero volts, it could be a 'high level' brake line that gets activated by the power from a brake light (usually battery voltage).
A resistor throttle (or pot throttle) works like a voltage divider. You put 5v on one side and the signal from the wiper will go from zero to 5v as you turn it.
A hall effect throttle uses a linear hall sensor (looks like a little transistor) and magnets attached to the moving part of the grip. As the grip is twisted, the magnetic field at the sensor changes and varies the output. Hall throttles have some theoretical advantages. One, there are no wearing parts other than the grip itself, so it should be good practically forever. A resistor throttle will eventually wear out. A hall throttle could be made waterproof (but most are not). In theory should work fine underwater.
The output of a hall throttle is not zero to 5v. Most have a nominal range of 1v to 4v. The controller is designed to take this range. You could use a resistor throttle, but as you twisted it, nothing would happen until you went pretty far, then it would go from zero to full speed over a short range. This could be fixed with a couple resistors if you wanted to use one.
The other blue wire could be several things, but to tell, you should connect a battery or power supply and turn the controller on. Then measure the voltage between battery negative and the remaining blue wire. This voltage will give us a clue. My guess is it will have 5-12v, being a brake wire that gets grounded. If it has battery voltage, then it could be used to drive a battery meter. If it has zero volts, it could be a 'high level' brake line that gets activated by the power from a brake light (usually battery voltage).
A resistor throttle (or pot throttle) works like a voltage divider. You put 5v on one side and the signal from the wiper will go from zero to 5v as you turn it.
A hall effect throttle uses a linear hall sensor (looks like a little transistor) and magnets attached to the moving part of the grip. As the grip is twisted, the magnetic field at the sensor changes and varies the output. Hall throttles have some theoretical advantages. One, there are no wearing parts other than the grip itself, so it should be good practically forever. A resistor throttle will eventually wear out. A hall throttle could be made waterproof (but most are not). In theory should work fine underwater.
The output of a hall throttle is not zero to 5v. Most have a nominal range of 1v to 4v. The controller is designed to take this range. You could use a resistor throttle, but as you twisted it, nothing would happen until you went pretty far, then it would go from zero to full speed over a short range. This could be fixed with a couple resistors if you wanted to use one.
justlooking
1 kW
thanks folks ,, 
been busy for a few days but bk now,, :lol:
i tested the voltage at the small blue wire [the one with no plug on the end ] if i connect it through a volt meter, then i get 5v when connected to the red wire that go to the throttle, so i take it that it is a negitive - wire.
been busy for a few days but bk now,, :lol:
i tested the voltage at the small blue wire [the one with no plug on the end ] if i connect it through a volt meter, then i get 5v when connected to the red wire that go to the throttle, so i take it that it is a negitive - wire.
Measure the blue wire against the battery negative.
justlooking
1 kW
will do that ,,fechter said:
just wondering about the 2 types of throttles ,, if i have one of each, and connect the wrong one to a controller, would it damage the controller or the throttle ??
justlooking said:
No either type will work. If you have the wrong type, the throtte range will be off but shouldn't damage anything. The motor might start running without giving any throttle in some combinations.
Either type throttle could possibly be damaged if the wires aren't hooked up right. There are 3 wires; ground, 5v, and signal.
Ground is almost always black. 5v is usually red. Whatever is left over is usually the signal.
