Controller blown, need advice

[lightmind]

Hello,

I was riding yesterday and I stopped to pull my bike around a locked gate. When I got back to the road my bike would not power on. The battery was 2/3 charged. I had a multimeter with me; I checked the input power wires to the controller and got a direct short reading between the wires.

I am going to do more testing later, but I think I may need a new controller.

Here's my bike...

http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=447

It's a 1500w 48v with the lcd3 control panel.

Advice on what I should replace the assumed blown controller with would be very helpful!

What I'm wondering is if there is a better controller available. It's been a year and a half since I got this bike, I assume that there may be improvements in the technology but I want to be sure to get a controller that works with my bike...

There are three power wires and five hall sensors as well as a speed sensor in the motor.

Thanks in advance!

 

[999zip999]

A lot of batteries have a fuse check the ez cheap things first. When it running has does it work 1,500 watts. Check for a disconnected plug ect.

 

[Ykick]

Ohm meter probably does show dead short on battery input of controller. I don’t believe that’s indicative of a bad controller.

Does this system have a pilot lamp? Any brake switch levers or something else which might inhibit the system?

 

[flangefrog]

There shouldn't be a 0Ω short on the battery wires. If there was, I think you'd have much bigger problems then the controller just not turning on. If the controller is blown it's probably fairly easy to fix. It's a fairly common model made by Kunteng. Open up the controller and take a photo - see if anything looks burnt/broken or smells. It could also be something to do with the display/on-off switch/ebrakes if you have any of those connected.

 

[Punx0r]

I could understand if the input caps on a controller appeared like a dead short on your average ohmmeter...

 

[flangefrog]

I could understand if the input caps on a controller appeared like a dead short on your average ohmmeter...

The input caps might show 0Ω for a fraction of a second but as the ohmmeter charges the capacitor the measured resistance should increase. Testing on a controller I get >40MΩ (over range) when measuring with the correct polarity or 300kΩ measuring with reverse polarity. The reading only takes a few seconds to settle.

 

[lightmind]

Thanks for the feedback!

I ordered a new controller, the bike is back in action. Upon closer inspection, a couple of transistors on the failed board had melted into a gooey glob...

 

[d8veh]

There's probably nothing wrong with your controller. Yoou should have waited. You will measure a dead short because of the massive capacitor across the battery wires. That's why you get a big spark when you connect a battery.

 

[BeachRider2016]

lol too late, OP got it.