izeman
1 GW
i can't believe that this axle won't break. i know that there are some amazing compounds but if this can hold an axle togethet that transmit a lot of torque???
The weak point now is in between the two bearings. So this is now at a place that takes less load (torque/twist load is none). makes sense to me. Should hold up now if the press fit does not fail. Anyway, this method seems to be more work/more expensive than building a new shaft from scratchi can't believe that this axle won't break.
There is phrase from datasheetizeman said:transmit a lot of torque???
it means when axle diameter is 15mm, on each mm of axle length torque is 10.25Nm, adapter wide is 24mm, total torque 246Nm.After 7 days @ 22 °C
Compressive Shear Strength
Steel pins and collars - 29 N*mm2 (4200 PSI)
it's more difficult, I can use milling machine to make a groove into axle, but i can't make groove into adapter, I need use special machine for do it.crossbreak said:Why not simply insert a key now that you have a thicker shaft?
crossbreak said:OK, got my BPM2, it's an 11TToo fast for Star->Delta conversion, too slow for a real high power setup :x The threaded side plate also cost me some of my nerves.
Tried to open it. One needs a special tool for that. I made one using a sheet. I drilled 3 holes into the sheet, one 35mm one for the BSA threads on the sideplate. And another 2 for the teeth that engage the grooves in the side plate. Just filed down two hex srews till they fit into the grooves and screwed them on my sheet. Used only two, but there are 4 grooves. A long lever on the sheet helps to input the right torque. A BSA threaded nut screws the self-made tool on the motor after the teeth engaged into the grooves (the nut has also 6-holes, that is a bit confusing, just had no other BSA nut at hand). This way, there is no way the tool can tilt and damage anything.
I was also able to open it without lacing it into a rim: I used the 6-hole interface for mounting the motor in my benchwise by drilling 7 holes into a 4mm alloy sheet: one 35mm hole in the center and 6 holes for the disc brake interface. After that I heated the motor (not the sideplate) and screwed of the sideplate anti-clockwise, I needed around 30Nm to do that, but this motor is unused. In a use motor this can be a lot more, since the chain drive further engages the threads of the sideplate when pedaling hard.
fechter said:mr.electric said:The best would be to dril the holes before removing the axle so it is still perfectly centered. Problem is the long axle hits the drill chuck.
Pics of the hall sensors for Fechter below.
Thanks for the pic. Yes those hall sensors are NOT located in the slots, but offset slightly. I assume this will result in more neutral timing and better controller compatibility.
To drill out the holes without the chuck hitting, you could use a really long drill bit (aircraft drill).
izeman said:how was the offset calculated? i'm struggeling with hall sensors in my MAC mid drive as well. maybe this solution could help?!
now that you say that it really looks as halls' original position gives a wrong timing. the motor runs with around 110% for a second and then goes down to 100% - maybe because some internal logarithm tells the controller that something is wrong and the controller tries to correct that.madin88 said:A too high timing would be similar to what field weakening or infineon 120% setting does and definitely lowers efficiency.